I would love an in depth video on fertilizing needs(schedule, ratios, recipe) for different fruit tree types, such as figs, apples, citrus, pomegranates, etc... I really enjoy your videos, and find them most helpful! Thanks!
Thank you Tom. I love and appreciate your videos. Your videos could be enjoyed even more if the quality were higher than 360p. Please upgrade your video camera to a higher resolution such as HD 780p. Enjoy
Tom what happens when you prune outside of the "window of opportunity"? What should I look for? Recently moved into a home that had fruit trees that needed some pruning, they were budding and flowering. Thought was they needed the pruning to open up tree for air. Did I ruin the trees?
Love Dave Wilson Fruit Trees + Always labeled correctly. Few years ago I purchased a fruit tree Labeled as (Gold Mine Nectarine) from Lows product of foreign country. 3 years latter I have to cut & dig that tree out coz it bear yellow sour as hell nectarines.
Hey Tom,all of the videos are great! You mentioned briefly in this video about watering. I live just east of Phoenix, and am wondering about the best way to water? Drip, flood irrigation and how long to water? I have a FloridaPrince, Desert Gold and Red Barron, and getting ready for some apple trees.What do you recommend for a watering depth?
Jason Lambert Best to irrigate to a depth of 12" to 18" using any methodology you choose. I'm never concerned with how people deliver water. Just get it there. White washing and mulching are also very important for success in the desert.
Hi Tom, I bought a bunch of your pomegranate trees and was wondering/would appreciate it if you can make a quick video on how to do winter pruning on growing standard poms (for backyard orchards just like the pruning grapes 2014 video).
Hi Tom. I've just ordered 9 new fruit trees to put in the ground. We go through a very wet and very dry season here and it was suggested I use crystal polymers as an additive in my soil to ensure my roots stay moist in the heat of our often dry summers and avoid root rot in during our very rainy season. I've actually never used them before and wondered if this is something that fruit tree growers find successful - or - is my local nursery just trying to push an expensive additive sale ;) - Heather
We have experimented with several polymers over the years. My personal opinion is applying a 4" to 6" layer of bio-diverse mulch is much more beneficial. If your soil is heavy and holds water during the rainy season make sure to plant the trees on a rise of at least 12" above grade. Have not found the polymers to be as effective as recommended. Commercial agriculture and the wholesale nursery industry do not use them.
Good video. I am just starting to put in fruit trees and I'm trying to learn as much as I can about their care. What should you NOT cut if you want to keep the tree short enough to be manageable? The tree is in its first year in the ground and I don't want to damage it.
The first cut you make at planting is very important. To ensure a low canopy, you must lop trees knee-high at planting. This works best with 1/2 to 5/8 inch caliper trees. For larger caliper older trees, top higher above obvious buds or a limb or two. The only thing not to cut is below the graft, and don't cut yourself.
Dave Wilson Nursery Hi Tom, I bought a potted bare root SpiceZee from a nursery which has a 3/4 inch caliper trunk. I topped it at knee height to get a small tree form but I took out all limbs in the process. I did make the cut right above some bud eyes on the main trunk. Am I ok? Thanks for all your videos. They are very informative. And yes, do get a better camera. Heck, borrow mine! :)
So I planted three DWN fruit trees in one hole about three weeks ago. Bare root. Big hole, lotsa compost, good in ground watering system. I did my research. I cut them back to hip height. One thing I learned AFTER I planted was to soak the roots and trim them before planting. I put them in a dark cool place for two days before I planted and kept the roots, which were wrapped in sawdust and paper, moist. How long, typically before I'll see some shoots? I am in a desert climate and we are at 75 to 80 in the day and 50ish at night right now.
Hello Tom. Quick question from Phoenix Az.. I planted one of your fuji apple trees about a year an a half ago. Not a single flower yet. Also in the last two winters it did not loose all its leaves. Some leaves just got brown. Is it too late to manually defoilage my self??. its about 6 feet tall, central leader cut to about 36". thanks
Not unusual for a young Fuji not to bloom for a couple of years. To encourage blossom set make sure to fertilize now again in April and one more time in June with a low nitrogen fertilizer like Gro -Power Flower and Bloom. 3/12/12 do not use high nitrogen fertilizers if you want fruit. Yes, defoliate the tree now. Forced dormancy is a must to eliminate any problems overwintering on the foliage. Also for fruit trees in the desert make sure to white wash every winter to protect the trunk and structure against sunburn.
Thanks Tom, The whippy growth... will it ever bear fruit if tied down? How do you distinguish between it and fruit wood. 2) What would happen if you did leave it too late in winter and pruned just after this time, is that really really bad?
The whippy growth removed was growing up through the center, so would block sun and air movement. It would make fruiting wood eventually if left on. Would not be bad to leave it, or reduce it instead of remove it.
Dear Dave I bought one year old Three way Nectarine tree , Dormant. last winter to grow in a Big Pot .Unfortunately 2 of the Grafts were dead and only One took off with leaves on it, so i have to cut off the 2 reaming dead Grafts . Now This Graft has a Very strong naked ( no leave/twig for 4 - 6 feet) central leader which is almost 10 feet high and growing fast . There are few small side Twigs/pencil thick 6-7 branches on Top at around 8-10 feet which comes from this Strong leader. There are 2-3 small twigs at knee height are now coming too. I think its too high for me to maintain and the tree canopy, fruit will be out of my reach too. How shall i prune it ? shall i cut off the central leader back to knee height and let these 2-3 branches/twigs at knee height be the future frame ( vase shape, Open centre ) for my Fruit tree? or Just bring it to knee height and cut everything off ? And when shall i Prune/Bring back to knee height, Now or when it will be Dormant ? Please advise" I live in Sydney and its Mid Autumn here. I can send you some pics to check, please let me know your email address if you want pictures of tree i am asking pruning advise off. Thanks sandy
Multi-buds must be pruned often to keep the varieties even, small balancing cuts all through the summer. One variety will always be more vigorous and out-grow the others. If you let this happen you will lose grafts. If it's already mid-autumn where you are, you may as well wait for the tree to go dormant, and then bring it back to size.
Dave, when you say Bring back to size ? Does this mean to cut it at knee hight and get rid of the the nursery growth and make my new Structure , low canopy, so that i can keep it 8 feet tall tops? Please advise. Thanks
I would love an in depth video on fertilizing needs(schedule, ratios, recipe) for different fruit tree types, such as figs, apples, citrus, pomegranates, etc... I really enjoy your videos, and find them most helpful! Thanks!
What great information! I'm very new to espalier pruning so this training gave me the confidence to do a great job! Thanks so much.
Thanks guys, I appreciate your videos, please keep them coming..even if you have to redo old videos
Thank you Tom.
I love and appreciate your videos.
Your videos could be enjoyed even more if the quality were higher than 360p.
Please upgrade your video camera to a higher resolution such as HD 780p.
Enjoy
Believe me, we want to upgrade. It's just a matter of time.
Thank you so much, we learn a hope lot of how, prevent and what to have. Thank you
Great video, great information!
can you show how to do your dormant spraying so we could do it properly
Felicidades diganle a Rober que le manda saludos lion su tractorista
BeAuTiFuL
Tom what happens when you prune outside of the "window of opportunity"? What should I look for? Recently moved into a home that had fruit trees that needed some pruning, they were budding and flowering. Thought was they needed the pruning to open up tree for air. Did I ruin the trees?
Love Dave Wilson Fruit Trees + Always labeled correctly.
Few years ago I purchased a fruit tree Labeled as (Gold Mine Nectarine) from Lows product of foreign country.
3 years latter I have to cut & dig that tree out coz it bear yellow sour as hell nectarines.
Hey Tom,all of the videos are great! You mentioned briefly in this video about watering. I live just east of Phoenix, and am wondering about the best way to water? Drip, flood irrigation and how long to water? I have a FloridaPrince, Desert Gold and Red Barron, and getting ready for some apple trees.What do you recommend for a watering depth?
Jason Lambert Best to irrigate to a depth of 12" to 18" using any methodology you choose. I'm never concerned with how people deliver water. Just get it there. White washing and mulching are also very important for success in the desert.
Hi Tom,
I bought a bunch of your pomegranate trees and was wondering/would appreciate it if you can make a quick video on how to do winter pruning on growing standard poms (for backyard orchards just like the pruning grapes 2014 video).
the DOS ooo
Hi Tom. I've just ordered 9 new fruit trees to put in the ground. We go through a very wet and very dry season here and it was suggested I use crystal polymers as an additive in my soil to ensure my roots stay moist in the heat of our often dry summers and avoid root rot in during our very rainy season. I've actually never used them before and wondered if this is something that fruit tree growers find successful - or - is my local nursery just trying to push an expensive additive sale ;) - Heather
We have experimented with several polymers over the years. My personal opinion is applying a 4" to 6" layer of bio-diverse mulch is much more beneficial. If your soil is heavy and holds water during the rainy season make sure to plant the trees on a rise of at least 12" above grade. Have not found the polymers to be as effective as recommended. Commercial agriculture and the wholesale nursery industry do not use them.
Good video. I am just starting to put in fruit trees and I'm trying to learn as much as I can about their care. What should you NOT cut if you want to keep the tree short enough to be manageable? The tree is in its first year in the ground and I don't want to damage it.
The first cut you make at planting is very important. To ensure a low canopy, you must lop trees knee-high at planting. This works best with 1/2 to 5/8 inch caliper trees. For larger caliper older trees, top higher above obvious buds or a limb or two. The only thing not to cut is below the graft, and don't cut yourself.
Dave Wilson Nursery
Hi Tom,
I bought a potted bare root SpiceZee from a nursery which has a 3/4 inch caliper trunk. I topped it at knee height to get a small tree form but I took out all limbs in the process. I did make the cut right above some bud eyes on the main trunk. Am I ok? Thanks for all your videos. They are very informative. And yes, do get a better camera. Heck, borrow mine! :)
So I planted three DWN fruit trees in one hole about three weeks ago. Bare root. Big hole, lotsa compost, good in ground watering system. I did my research. I cut them back to hip height. One thing I learned AFTER I planted was to soak the roots and trim them before planting. I put them in a dark cool place for two days before I planted and kept the roots, which were wrapped in sawdust and paper, moist. How long, typically before I'll see some shoots? I am in a desert climate and we are at 75 to 80 in the day and 50ish at night right now.
Kersteen Anderson How soon you see growth depends on the variety, but it should be blooming any time now in your climate.
Santa Rosa Plum Just started to show, the others not yet. Great talk BTW in Yucaipa last Saturday! Thanks for the response.
Hello Tom. Quick question from Phoenix Az.. I planted one of your fuji apple trees about a year an a half ago. Not a single flower yet. Also in the last two winters it did not loose all its leaves. Some leaves just got brown. Is it too late to manually defoilage my self??. its about 6 feet tall, central leader cut to about 36". thanks
Not unusual for a young Fuji not to bloom for a couple of years. To encourage blossom set make sure to fertilize now again in April and one more time in June with a low nitrogen fertilizer like Gro -Power Flower and Bloom. 3/12/12 do not use high nitrogen fertilizers if you want fruit. Yes, defoliate the tree now. Forced dormancy is a must to eliminate any problems overwintering on the foliage. Also for fruit trees in the desert make sure to white wash every winter to protect the trunk and structure against sunburn.
Thanks Tom, The whippy growth... will it ever bear fruit if tied down? How do you distinguish between it and fruit wood. 2) What would happen if you did leave it too late in winter and pruned just after this time, is that really really bad?
The whippy growth removed was growing up through the center, so would block sun and air movement. It would make fruiting wood eventually if left on. Would not be bad to leave it, or reduce it instead of remove it.
Super
Dear Dave
I bought one year old Three way Nectarine tree , Dormant. last winter to grow in a Big Pot .Unfortunately 2 of the Grafts were dead and only One took off with leaves on it, so i have to cut off the 2 reaming dead Grafts . Now This Graft has a Very strong naked ( no leave/twig for 4 - 6 feet) central leader which is almost 10 feet high and growing fast . There are few small side Twigs/pencil thick 6-7 branches on Top at around 8-10 feet which comes from this Strong leader.
There are 2-3 small twigs at knee height are now coming too.
I think its too high for me to maintain and the tree canopy, fruit will be out of my reach too.
How shall i prune it ? shall i cut off the central leader back to knee height and let these 2-3 branches/twigs at knee height be the future frame ( vase shape, Open centre ) for my Fruit tree? or Just bring it to knee height and cut everything off ?
And when shall i Prune/Bring back to knee height, Now or when it will be Dormant ?
Please advise"
I live in Sydney and its Mid Autumn here. I can send you some pics to check, please let me know your email address if you want pictures of tree i am asking pruning advise off.
Thanks
sandy
Multi-buds must be pruned often to keep the varieties even, small balancing cuts all through the summer. One variety will always be more vigorous and out-grow the others. If you let this happen you will lose grafts. If it's already mid-autumn where you are, you may as well wait for the tree to go dormant, and then bring it back to size.
Thanks dave
Dave, when you say Bring back to size ? Does this mean to cut it at knee hight and get rid of the the nursery growth and make my new Structure , low canopy, so that i can keep it 8 feet tall tops?
Please advise.
Thanks
What exactly is vigor?
Robert Moore it is the strong vegetative growth during the summer.