Alfa 105 - Removing a seized cylinder head.
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- čas přidán 20. 05. 2018
- I've had this Alfa Duetto 1600 sitting in the back of my workshop for months, my goal for this Sunday morning was to pull the seized head of of the block without damaging it. It was a lot of work but it came off in the end. Here's how.
Instagram - @jethrojamesbronner
A production of Perlastrada pty ltd - Auta a dopravní prostředky
Just found this channel and series. Really good stuff here, thanks. I also have rebuild engine and transmission on my '91 Alfa Spider, so very similiar. I was nervous about stripping the spark plug holes with the method you show. I chose to use the rope trick. You need an engine that will turn over by hand. Doesnt work on seized engines. You lower the pistons in number 1 and 4. Stuff 1 and 4 with as much rope as you can, with a tail sticking out so you can remove the rope later. Rotate the engine by hand forcing the pistons to rise, push up on the rope that will then push up on the head. There is quite a pop when it happens but it worked for me and I wasnt nervous about damage. Great series again. Thanks, Vin
You're right there's not many alfa videos anywhere, wish you were around when I overhauled mine. Seized heads happens a lot on 115's too. I made a similar tool from spark plug extenders and a length of wood.
Ingenious, I remember using a cherry picker on Jaguar heads and it taking a while.
Thanks Jethro, im currently struggling with my Jaguar 420G's 4.2 XK cylinder head at the moment with the exact same issue -- the head is seized to the block due to nobody in its history using proper coolant. Ill use this technique for a puller on my own upcoming video about the engine. Its hard to keep compassion for these engines when they throw you things like these haha
I think in the future you should use all four spark plug holes instead of just two! Think about it, all the force is being applied directly to just two spark plug hole threads which could cause them to just shear off. By using all four plug holes you cut the pulling force in half and help to prevent warping the head by a spreading the force more evenly across the length of the head. It was a smart idea to stop for a few hours to allow the pressure to dissipate. I also wonder if using a torch and applying heat evenly around the heads during the time-out would help as well? I'm not suggesting red hot but a good warming.
Very clever! Took me a few minutes to realize what you were pushing against at 1st
My thought too , takes a while to realize the metal plate is resting on top of the cylinder head studs !
What a creative solution. Well done.
Love this series!
Darth Volvo thanks for watching man 👍
Jethro, First off, great video and thank you for the ideas on how to solve a nasty problem. I just went through the same issue on a 2.0 Twin Spark I am rebuilding for my '85 US spec S3 Spider. In the US, there is a product called PB Blaster and it's known as the best penetrant available for melting steel rust. I used this from the top on the head studs and after a couple days soak, I was able to separate the head from the block by 4 or 5 mm. This was enough to spray the penetrant on the studs between the head and block while the engine was upside down on the stand. That way the penetrant flowed on the studs into the section stuck on the head. I had to wait a couple weeks and just let the penetrant do it's work. Then by pushing the head back down with the hold down nuts and some pounding on the head with a 4"x4" wood section between hammer and head, again with the engine upside down, it came free. It took a long time but came loose. You just need to be patient using this method. I hope you keep producing more videos. Cheers.
Great solution. Hopefully I won't have that problem, but now I know how to deal with it.
Awesome problem solving solution
Wish I had this tool when I went through the same process, great video!
really cool series keep up the good work!
Great work and so calm 😂👍
Minter NZ I find when I’m not calm I wreck stuff... It’s cheaper and Quicker to be calm.
Yep, been there. Not surprised he upgraded the plate thickness. Mines about 10mm thick.
Nice work! A refreshing change from the Sprint GT which was become a noticeable headache for you, hopefully that sorts itself out. 👍
Hi Jethro, love your video's but can you PLEASE make a video of a complete step by step engine overhaul and tuning
Great stuff-thanks. I've heard of the issue but thankfully have never run into it. A clip I've saved into my favorites file. Thanks
Steve Wuertz Thanks man 👍
Brilliant idea mate. Will try on my rav4 this week. Thank you
Wow.....great idea....cheers up
Jethro - brilliant video again 👍
Tell me - why the love of Alfa’s? What’s your history with them and do you like any other brands?
Old Ferrari’s looks like they’d suit your amazing skills 😊😉
Oh and where did you learn to build engines at such a young age? It’s incredible!
Thanks Jethro,personallyI may just need this info in a couple of weeks
Great series thou i maintain a small private collection of 105 and 116 series cars great videos mate
A clever solution.
Wow I really said , he is going to rip the threads right out the spark plug holes 😅 👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼
Buen trabajo.
I have a feeling that what you made is/was available as a special tool from Alfa, not sure. I made one about 30 years ago, although it only fitted over 1 plug hole at a time. I used a piece of 12mm steel plate, no bending issues. You don't need to be told about that head coming up skeef like that (5:48), the stud threads bite into the head with disastrous results. Ask me, it happened, I ended up having to cut one stud off.
Smart I worked for alfa and used factory tool thicker and smaller but same concept also made similar tool for jag nice 👍
I have the factory tool for lifting heads .... goes in cyl 2 and the plate is about 20mm thick machined to sit on the acorn nuts
That was interesting ...any Tips on how to release a seized in block Distributor Assembley so i can adjust Timing now a new timing belt has been installed.
I know it stinks to high heaven but try using diesel and automatic trans fluid for penetrating fluid
Wouldn't you risk shearing off the spark plug threads doing this? Or is the cylinder head made from cast iron? Great video btw :)
Gianluca Chetcuti So the high tensile threads are turning inside the steel insert in the plug hole. So they’re not turning in the aluminum threads at all.
Oh that makes more sense. Thanks for replying so soon!
I was worried you might pull the spark plugs threads out of the head, one puller in each hole would spread the load more, fortunately it seemed to work for you.
Great work Jethro and hopefully you'll also expand to cover newer classics 156, GTV Coupe etc. Can you comment on waterless coolants for Alfas also please.
Alex Lintern hey man will do. I’ve used waterless coolants extensively and can give a pretty solid opinion on them.
well i watched this video years ago ,thought id never need it, but here i am with a stuck engine head on a TS 8v because previous owner was running water in it. Ive lossen everything, ive been hitting in with a rubber hammer it doestn even bother. Will try your method haha
Now if only I could find a video for the 1.9L VAG motor 😅 Still this gives me some ideas 👍
Smart man
I remember watching this video, now I own an Alfa twin cam and am trying to remove it’s stuck head… I’ve seen it a few more times
Well done .I would caution not to exceed the plug torque on those puller bolts though .I totally agree with using the correct type and quality of coolant too .We saw many examples of old "Bluecol" in privately "serviced" "Gorilla t1s " as they were described when people were ordering parts for the old girls. I like Your method there as we just used to flood the studs then hang the buggers overnight and even longer ! I hope some of the Alfisti take note of You very honest videos.
Will we get to see the dreaded SPICA injection some time ?
En que parte de USA estas?
Clever
what size
thread please
Any idea why a Alfa Romeo 146 1.7 Boxer, jerks often after letting off the throttle around 3000rpm especially in second and third gear. I have recently overhauled the engine, changed the ECU as well as the cam sensor, timing belt and all the auxiliary belts. Thank you
Azfar Asaad I really couldn’t tell you. I work with the older cars on carburetors and no computers.
Have you considered worn / split engine mounts ? .. There is a lot of engine ‘rock’ with the boxer engine when lifting off the throttle especially in the lower gears . A common issue with alfasuds and 33s .
Yikes, that seems like a sure recipe for pulling the threads out of the plug holes.
Quick question about this method: is there any risk to put too much stress on the plug thread and ruin it? After all you bent 2 steel plates
Riccardo Maestroni Well you’re not turning the thread through it, as the hollow plug is there the thread is turning. But I imagine you could damage it if the head was completely seized.
If you damage a plug thread then the thing to do would be to install steel plug inserts later. I install steel inserts in all my cylinder heads anyway because the aluminum does get weak over time.
Jethro Bronner you are right. I wasn't considering either that the plug also has a shoulder (is it that the right english term?) that probably tranfers most of the force to the surface instead of the thread. Thanks for the answer and keep up the amazing videos! You are living the alfisti dream!
I've heard of people doing that: stripping out the plug threads in the head. It would be better to use 4 threaded rods.
I too thought the same. I've a 67-8 Berlina and may indulge in a total engine rebuild next March/April. Should I encounter a similar issue, do you think preheating the block and head to approx 500+°c would be a headstart? Providing I can find an industrial oven to use.
@@michaelhilber8284 See the response to RM just above.
Couldn't you use those rods screwed into the spark plug holes with cork or some material on the ends and push against the piston tops? I doubt you'd bend rods or damage the piston heads if you were slow and careful. After a good soaking with Kroil or a sturdy solvent of course.
With Evans coolant do you use a high volume water pump.
Ted EnderPalmer I’ve actually stopped using Evans because the higher cylinder head temperature was making it difficult to tune the car the way I wanted it without risking pre-detonation. At some point I’ll have to make a video about my experience with Evans. I wouldn’t recommend it for a vintage car. But if you do use it, yes use a high volume pump for sure.
Jethro Bronner i've run Evans in a Chrysler 300 2.7l v6 and a Toyota sienna van with a 3.5 L V6. Not sure what they're called in SA.. It was a difficult job getting the old completely fluid flushed out of the Toyota. Running stock water pump. I do notice slightly higher cylinder head temps, could be as much as 140F greater but I'm not seeing that. My 115 2L runs the L-jettronic fuel injection so tuning should not be a issue.Alfa's on this side of the Atlantic are a bit of an orphan. GTV go for all the money, $30000 for a good runner.
i had this happened on my gtv, a diy puller lots of vinegar and swearing
why not double nut the had studs and remove them? Those old rusty sticks look nasty.
please do not use evens coolant... A youtube chanel called ¨the workshop¨ has a great series of videos explaining why it is a bad idea to use evans coolant. I hope you read this and don't overheat one of your engines due to using the evans coolant.
la piastra deve essere più piccola e va messa nel cilindro numero 2.. sarebbe venuta su subito con appena 1 giro, e lasciatele stare ste alfa giocatevi con il pistello bambini stupidini,sempre a smonta e rimonta sempliciotti
Just a heads up...
The sparkplug holes are made to hold the sparkplugs IN PLACE and not to be used to pull up seized cylinder heads as they are easily stripped or pulled out making your cylinder head garbage....
Backyard mechanics distroy many cars this way.