Here is my modification for a 1965 289. I cut a x on the end pointing rearward, keep away from the starter thread. I base the upper control arm shaft rearward 1/8th of an inch, which changes the pivot creating more caster. Than I use a 1968 Mustang big block coil spring, cut off 1/3rd of one coil from the top. I also used 1974 Maverick disc brake spindles that I had read had built in caster. I did the Shelby drop and all the other usual bolt on modifications. Car uses one shim per bolt stud, and has great handling.
Thanks mate. I was about to just throw these on blindly but figured as with everything there’s bound to be a few tips and tricks. YEP your video certainly helped me in Melbourne Australia. 1967 Mustang Coupe. 289 C4.
The new shafts utilize a rubber o ring inside the threaded area so no more rubber caps. Good video. However I wouldn’t suggest cutting a groove in the ones with the O-ring as you could tear the O-ring as you spin it on and O’ring has to pass all those threads. Also you cannot cross thread such large threads all it would do is stop and not turn. It’s impossible to cross thread by turning it by hand. Good video.
I had those 90 deg. Fittings on a 73 mach1 i installed brand new, I could not get the tip of the grease gun on the 90deg. Fitting,To close to control arm. I installed straight fittings and used a right angeled grease gun coupler tip part# 75475 rough neck brand at Northern tool. That worked the best for me
Great video, I'm about to do this on my 1973 Mustang. One thing, I would suggest others do more "Shop around" more for the parts, Like Rock Auto dot com has the Shaft kits for about $28 and you can also get them on eBay for about $25. as long as they are real Moog and grease-able can make the suspension last longer. Also, question for Jevchance did you lower the upper a-arm bolt holes in the shock tower for better alignment settings while your at it? They sell the drilling guides on ebay now for $14.00 plus shipping and if used correctly they are re-sellable.
I just replaced the entire front and rear suspension and steering linkage with Moog and Scott Drake parts on my 65 Convertible. I got major suspension squeeks afterwards, so make you verify fits and use some type of lube on all fitments AFTER researching if it is needed. One problem may be I used new Scott Drake progressive front springs and one end narrows and might not fit correctly, even with new spring perches. So, be warned.
You can never centre them. I just did mine, and i think they need to be off to one side , slightly. This provides the caster. You dont have any other means of caster on the 65-66.
Hey Billy good to hear from you! Nope, haven't touched it. Been busy with some house projects but hoping to make some headway this summer. How you holding up during this weird time?
@@jevchance Things are ok. They have me working from home most of the time which is weird. I need to do some projects at home as well. Just cant get in to Home Depot or Lowes right now. So...I've been trying to hang out in the garage. About to drop on my 347 in the next few weeks.
@@Cobrafanatik22 I've been shopping at local hardware and doing curbside pickup at Home Depot to get materials, been going ok. We did an office remodel and built some raised beds so the projects are nearly finished. Lots of lawn care this time of year too.
Yup, a bit cheaper than getting a whole new control arm. Also, restoring the old arms was highly recommended to me by a few car guys. They don't make them like they used to!
Been riding in new moog UCAs for about 2 months now. After greasing them several times, still squeaking like pig. Plus they dont feel as good as old stocks. Luckily, kept the whole assembly so gonna rebuild and swap them out. Stock rules.
Here is my modification for a 1965 289. I cut a x on the end pointing rearward, keep away from the starter thread. I base the upper control arm shaft rearward 1/8th of an inch, which changes the pivot creating more caster. Than I use a 1968 Mustang big block coil spring, cut off 1/3rd of one coil from the top. I also used 1974 Maverick disc brake spindles that I had read had built in caster. I did the Shelby drop and all the other usual bolt on modifications. Car uses one shim per bolt stud, and has great handling.
this video helpt me to understand and now knowing were the skeek comes from ,,, i am going to copy you"re work there.. Thanks a lot man !!!!!
Thanks mate. I was about to just throw these on blindly but figured as with everything there’s bound to be a few tips and tricks. YEP your video certainly helped me in Melbourne Australia. 1967 Mustang Coupe. 289 C4.
Awesome Lenny thanks for the feedback, hope your project turns out great!
The new shafts utilize a rubber o ring inside the threaded area so no more rubber caps. Good video. However I wouldn’t suggest cutting a groove in the ones with the O-ring as you could tear the O-ring as you spin it on and O’ring has to pass all those threads. Also you cannot cross thread such large threads all it would do is stop and not turn. It’s impossible to cross thread by turning it by hand. Good video.
Thanks for your clear video, I am working of those upper arms, will do this line to grease all the way the threads.
Nice kit for fixing those control arms up.
Yup I was pretty happy with the parts.
About to restore these on a 67 Mustang. Certainly helps! Thanks!
TheRaulr151 glad it was helpful!
Great video sir you made me an expert thank you
You're welcome, glad it was helpful!
Good tip on cutting the grove in the threads!!!!
Hope it helps prevent wear.
I had those 90 deg. Fittings on a 73 mach1 i installed brand new, I could not get the tip of the grease gun on the 90deg. Fitting,To close to control arm. I installed straight fittings and used a right angeled grease gun coupler tip part# 75475 rough neck brand at Northern tool. That worked the best for me
what is the actual torque supposed to be for those shaft nuts. .just curious thx
Hey there, good stuff. It'll help me when/if I get to the point.
Thanks, I hope it does help!
Great video, I'm about to do this on my 1973 Mustang. One thing, I would suggest others do more "Shop around" more for the parts, Like Rock Auto dot com has the Shaft kits for about $28 and you can also get them on eBay for about $25. as long as they are real Moog and grease-able can make the suspension last longer. Also, question for Jevchance did you lower the upper a-arm bolt holes in the shock tower for better alignment settings while your at it? They sell the drilling guides on ebay now for $14.00 plus shipping and if used correctly they are re-sellable.
I just replaced the entire front and rear suspension and steering linkage with Moog and Scott Drake parts on my 65 Convertible. I got major suspension squeeks afterwards, so make you verify fits and use some type of lube on all fitments AFTER researching if it is needed. One problem may be I used new Scott Drake progressive front springs and one end narrows and might not fit correctly, even with new spring perches. So, be warned.
Squeaks on these are usually UCA so definitely get at it with the grease! Hope you get it figured out.
You can never centre them. I just did mine, and i think they need to be off to one side , slightly. This provides the caster. You dont have any other means of caster on the 65-66.
Hi John. Lookin good.
Hey thanks Ed.
John you get anymore done with the coupe?
Hey Billy good to hear from you! Nope, haven't touched it. Been busy with some house projects but hoping to make some headway this summer. How you holding up during this weird time?
@@jevchance Things are ok. They have me working from home most of the time which is weird. I need to do some projects at home as well. Just cant get in to Home Depot or Lowes right now. So...I've been trying to hang out in the garage. About to drop on my 347 in the next few weeks.
@@Cobrafanatik22 I've been shopping at local hardware and doing curbside pickup at Home Depot to get materials, been going ok. We did an office remodel and built some raised beds so the projects are nearly finished. Lots of lawn care this time of year too.
good imformation thanks
You're welcome.
Looks like new.
Yup, a bit cheaper than getting a whole new control arm. Also, restoring the old arms was highly recommended to me by a few car guys. They don't make them like they used to!
Been riding in new moog UCAs for about 2 months now. After greasing them several times, still squeaking like pig. Plus they dont feel as good as old stocks. Luckily, kept the whole assembly so gonna rebuild and swap them out. Stock rules.
weld it