This vid will probably become the standard must-watch for anybody researching doing this mod. Excellent job!! 👍🏻 Thank you for the links too. Was considering it myself as hate having a big slip zone on the clutch (makes wheelies a ball ache) 😉 want instant power for low speed lifts
@@lightweightadv the rally is in bits at the moment as I'm doing a few mods modifying the side fairings and replacing the plastic sump with a black alu one, as I cracked one of the sides panels up a lane. Good time to order some more bits I suppose 😆 (maybe even some silicone hoses too)
So just changed my clutch - on a farm - in Africa! Was fairly easy once I managed to get all the protective after market parts of the bike. Your video was a huge help! Thanks a lot! I might just publish a video of me changing my clutch, based on your video for people to see, that even an amateur like me, can do it! 😆
Proper job on this one, thanks Marc, gave me the confidence & info needed to do my own. I had the clutch slip start & use half the adjustment on the lever, obviously the previous owner & nothing to do with a climb on the Long Mynd a step above my skill level 😉😂 All the bits arrived two days before a wales trip & work done the day before & so happy with it. Have seen comment/question on the spring upgrade...trouble is it's a personal preference and perception thing. For what it's worth here's my unrequested two-pennies worth. I run an F650GS twin which I'd describe as a medium/heavy clutch, 'big bike friendly' intro trails last year would give me a tired hand by lunch & almost cramped claw hand by the end of the day. Static test the crf with uprated springs is in my opinion about half way between the weight of the original, zero bite, and that of the GS. A morning on the welsh trail and my hand didn't feel tired, I'm sure it would take more effort for a full day, but nothing that I wouldn't aclimatise to. I much prefer the benefit of feeling the bite point which is almost imperceptible with the stock arrangement. Hope that helps somebody....if you prefer the ultra- light feel, great, you pays your money and takes your choice 🏍👍 Thanks again Marc, good job👍
Great vid for anyone doing their first clutch replacement, well explained but with a 250cc for off road bike I’d opt for the lighter clutch pull instead of stronger springs.
Thanks for such a straightforward video on how to get this done. I’m tackling mine tomorrow after it started slipping after being punished (and crashed) on the beach. Wish me luck!
@@lightweightadv well… managed it and the clutch works great. Unfortunately I must’ve dropped one of those pesky O-rings into my oil drain bucket as I was putting the case cover back on so gonna be tearing into it tomorrow 😂
Well aren’t I a bit special. Pulled it all apart again only to discover I’d done it right the first time. In the process of putting it back together I lost the clutch return spring and found it in my sump (that was a mission to retrieve). Oh, and the mystery o-ring it turns out fell off the back of the brake lever.
Great videos, keep it up! Your explanation and demonstration of how the clutch friction discs and steel discs function took all the mystery out of it for me; thanks you!
The judder springs are to compensate for not having a rubber cush drive on your rear sprocket hub . Eliminating them will cause faster chain and sprocket wear 😁😁🤘🤘
That's right, but with 24hp, I'm not sure that's too be a deal to be honest. I removed the judder spring over 15k miles ago now and haven't seen any noticeable increase in wear. But you are right, it will wear faster nonetheless 😎👍🏻
Great crf advice .Need as much info on this bike as I can get.As not to much on Internet.This video is the most detailed I have seen on the mechanics of the bike 🤘🇬🇧
Thanks for talking through this so clearly. I just picked up a crf250 l that has been poorly looked after. I'm I'm looking to upgrade the clutch and I have a leak at that gasket you replaced. This vid has given me the confidence to give this a go myself.
Great video, nice straightforward explanation of what to do and why it’s worth doing 👌 I feel I understand my bikes clutch system far better now. May have been useful to show how the lever operates the internal mechanism too ? Looking forward to seeing your video on front suspension upgrade ... wondering if it’s something a novice mechanic like me with basic tools can do at home :)
Clutch plates have different material your EBC kit (srk122) is Aramid and doesn’t need a soak, but as a general rule soaking is best if you don’t know the material (very long winded explanation) just pour oil over the night before the job. BTW Main constituent to concrete = sand - sand and gravel - hope you wiped them thoroughly before inserting into engine? Sand and aggregate (little rough stones) in engine = not the best ??? Did you do all 5 bolts up- hope you did your video shows 4 (maybe it was edited out?) - did you check the mesh filter while the side was off (right at bottom of exposed engine case...
Great video. My clutch slipped this weekend so bad, that couldn't move a 3-degree slope upwards. Cable tension fixing helped mostly, but I still can't get up to full speed(5/6th gears basically are not usable). So I know what I'll be doing later next week.
Can’t believe you didn’t torque those springs up. You’ve changed. Also not entirely sure why I’m watching this vid when I don’t have a crf250 😁. Cool vid though dude 👌🏼
Great vid as always Marc. As soon as mine is out of warranty I’ll be doing this as my clutch is slipping already and it’s only got 400 miles on the clock. So hoping the adjusters will stop it or it’s a warranty repair (I hope).
I’m a big Honda fan but given this is off road bike then they could have given us access to the without needing to take the whole side casing off. Easy access makes changing a clutch so quick.
Great video! I'll be replacing my clutch this weekend and removing the judder spring as you have done. Can you let me know which jack lift stand you are using there?
Excellent video, best one I've seen on the subject. One note: looking at the Honda diagram, looks like the innermost (steel plate) is actually a different part number, Honda calls it plate 'B' - did you reuse it? I'm guessing that with the jabber spring removed, all 4 steel plates should be identical?
@@lightweightadv so I figured out why they're different part numbers. The innermost 'B' plate is coated (matte grey) while the other steel plates are just raw polished metal. I'm guessing the coating adds a bit of friction?? Anyway, I'm putting in all new steel plates anyway, so might just do 4 of the regular polished steel ones.
Great video, and really useful as I have just killed the clutch on my CRF250 Rally! Would you recommend I replace the steels as well and the plates as I have killed the clutch? Also can you update the link for the friction plates you used ?
The steel plates tend not to wear out, but you will have to assess them when you take them out. I'm sure they're affordable if you wanted to replace them as a matter of course.
Great video sir..I like it, anyway i'm just want to know your review after long term using this clutch setting (By replacing clutch friction plate 'B' with same friction 'A'), is that anything strange behaviour at your bike?
This is a perfect video - my clutch slips when accelerating hard and it's driving me mad (on a 2,000KM bike). I'll be ordering the exact same parts you've used this week. Question - do you discard the crappy judder spring system altogether and simply slide the first new friction pad in the basket followed by the plates pad plate pad etc?
@@lightweightadv Hi, million thanks for the reply. I took on the challenge this weekend and the bike has never ridden better. The EBC clutch and spring upgrade is an absolute must for this bike - my old clutch was absolutely shot after less than 2,000 km. So huge thanks and please keep making your videos. Next for me is the fork spring upgrade you posted recently. Cheers!
Search for Pommey Biker, he did a 300 upgrade, think it included a cage swap, cant remember which clutch he fitted. All Marc's stuff is relevant, it's just the extra steps & the right clutch of course 😎
Yes! I like the way you explain things how you enjoy working on your motorcycle your outlook on things makes people feel more confident working on their stuff and I appreciate it
@@lightweightadv Cheers, I'm still only breaking it in, or its breaking me in I can't tell. If that clutch goes against me I'll be adding Guinness to the gear box to calm it down :)
Why did you use the CK 1313 plates rather than CK 1314 which seem to be for the CRF 250L. Also, any reason why you didnt go for carbon fibre plates (EBC DRCF277)?
Hey Frank, The 1313 pack is the same plate, used in the CBR 250 I believe, just minus the judder spring. They fit straight in. Didn't see the need for anything fancier than the 1313s...didnt even know a carbon fiber set exists til just now in all honesty. Not sure if have picked it regardless tbh 🤷🏻♂️. Hope that helps 👊🏻😎
@@lightweightadv I have the CRF 300L and the clutch is knackered after 1500 miles, including some difficult sections in the Peak District, so i need to rebuild it. I have two choices, replace with 300L OEM plates and it will no doubt happen again soon, or replace the basket and use better plates and 5 springs (as stock the 300L clutch only has 3 springs).
Ah, gotta admit, I'm not certain how to proceed on the 300 as it has a slipper clutch basket and I've not read up on them yet. Have you had it to a dealer yet?
You get the EBC CK1313 clutch set to do it as we did. The 300 is a different clutch setup, I'm not sure what plates they take, but the 250 varients take the 1313s 👍🏻
@@lightweightadv oh also is there any order i should follow when putting back the plates like is there numbers or just toss them ? yeah seems i worded it out very wrong i meant to say whole thing can i just swap it out for a 2022 cb250 basket i thought since honda likes to keep their design as similar as possible till it cant be used again maybe i can just toss that thing in there i have a old cbr 250
@@lightweightadv what about the B plate steel 22322-KZZ-901 listed in the Honda parts catalogue next to the narrow friction plate? Did you swap that out for the 902?
Hey. The clutch springs are at 17 mins and oil filter at 21 mins. I don't think they need any further explanation than this in all honesty, once you've taken them off, you've seen the orientation of them, so its just a matter of putting it back how you found it 👍🏻
@@lightweightadv okay so I don't need to buy the 100$ heavy duty clutch kit I can just buy any 1 full size friction disc to replace the thinnest one with, and I'll need a gasket and oil and filter and coolant obviously. Sounds alot cheaper! 👌
@@lightweightadv thank you. I just swapped mine . It was tough to get adjusted. ( almost like my cable is stretched. It bites great but did not want to completely disengage . It made shifting clunky
It's dealers choice to be honest. Jamie did his alongside a full service when the time was up, I did mine just because I could. If the bike is due a service, it's a no brainer to do it at that point. If it had just been serviced and the clutch was fine, I think I'd be holding out fir a few more miles. The upgrade is worth it, no doubt, its just a matter of when to spend the cash, not if. 👍🏻
I don’t think so, just spent a fair bit on new suspension so the next thing I need is body armour. Looking forward to seeing the reviews you have coming!
An excellent video, which overtly covers what is removed and fantastically, how the return spring can fall out and how it should be located. All I needed to do, having followed these instructions was to use the major and minor adjusters as the new plates put it miles out. Excellent video. 👍
@@lightweightadv should I remove judder clutch and change with the new 1? Because right now I'm using 4pcs new clutch and I still using prior OEM judder clutch
Die Lamellen müssen mit Motoröl getränkt werden vor der Montage,wurde vergessen !!!!!!!? Die Kupplung hält ewig lange Wenn Frau/Mann die Kupplung schleifen lässt verbrennen die Lamellen bei jeder Ölband-Lamellen Kupplung !!!
This is the best explanation ever!
This vid will probably become the standard must-watch for anybody researching doing this mod. Excellent job!! 👍🏻 Thank you for the links too. Was considering it myself as hate having a big slip zone on the clutch (makes wheelies a ball ache) 😉 want instant power for low speed lifts
@@lightweightadv the rally is in bits at the moment as I'm doing a few mods modifying the side fairings and replacing the plastic sump with a black alu one, as I cracked one of the sides panels up a lane. Good time to order some more bits I suppose 😆 (maybe even some silicone hoses too)
So just changed my clutch - on a farm - in Africa! Was fairly easy once I managed to get all the protective after market parts of the bike. Your video was a huge help! Thanks a lot!
I might just publish a video of me changing my clutch, based on your video for people to see, that even an amateur like me, can do it! 😆
Haha, love it! Really glad the video helped you out when you needed it. I look forward to the vid 👊🏻😎
Proper job on this one, thanks Marc, gave me the confidence & info needed to do my own. I had the clutch slip start & use half the adjustment on the lever, obviously the previous owner & nothing to do with a climb on the Long Mynd a step above my skill level 😉😂
All the bits arrived two days before a wales trip & work done the day before & so happy with it.
Have seen comment/question on the spring upgrade...trouble is it's a personal preference and perception thing. For what it's worth here's my unrequested two-pennies worth. I run an F650GS twin which I'd describe as a medium/heavy clutch, 'big bike friendly' intro trails last year would give me a tired hand by lunch & almost cramped claw hand by the end of the day. Static test the crf with uprated springs is in my opinion about half way between the weight of the original, zero bite, and that of the GS. A morning on the welsh trail and my hand didn't feel tired, I'm sure it would take more effort for a full day, but nothing that I wouldn't aclimatise to. I much prefer the benefit of feeling the bite point which is almost imperceptible with the stock arrangement.
Hope that helps somebody....if you prefer the ultra- light feel, great, you pays your money and takes your choice 🏍👍
Thanks again Marc, good job👍
Great vid for anyone doing their first clutch replacement, well explained but with a 250cc for off road bike I’d opt for the lighter clutch pull instead of stronger springs.
Thanks for such a straightforward video on how to get this done. I’m tackling mine tomorrow after it started slipping after being punished (and crashed) on the beach. Wish me luck!
Hey, you'll be fine, no luck required. It's a satisfying job to complete 👍🏻
@@lightweightadv well… managed it and the clutch works great. Unfortunately I must’ve dropped one of those pesky O-rings into my oil drain bucket as I was putting the case cover back on so gonna be tearing into it tomorrow 😂
Well aren’t I a bit special. Pulled it all apart again only to discover I’d done it right the first time.
In the process of putting it back together I lost the clutch return spring and found it in my sump (that was a mission to retrieve).
Oh, and the mystery o-ring it turns out fell off the back of the brake lever.
Great videos, keep it up! Your explanation and demonstration of how the clutch friction discs and steel discs function took all the mystery out of it for me; thanks you!
No worries buddy, glad it helped 👍
Best info I’ve seen on internet I’m replacing my brake lever had no idea how to get it off so u helped me out with my rally love the channel
The judder springs are to compensate for not having a rubber cush drive on your rear sprocket hub .
Eliminating them will cause faster chain and sprocket wear 😁😁🤘🤘
That's right, but with 24hp, I'm not sure that's too be a deal to be honest. I removed the judder spring over 15k miles ago now and haven't seen any noticeable increase in wear. But you are right, it will wear faster nonetheless 😎👍🏻
Great crf advice .Need as much info on this bike as I can get.As not to much on Internet.This video is the most detailed I have seen on the mechanics of the bike 🤘🇬🇧
Did mine, following this vid, and it’s a real improvement. Doesn’t stop me falling off, though.
Thanks for talking through this so clearly. I just picked up a crf250 l that has been poorly looked after. I'm I'm looking to upgrade the clutch and I have a leak at that gasket you replaced. This vid has given me the confidence to give this a go myself.
Awesome stuff! Go ahead and change it out, you'll enjoy the process 😎
Great video, nice straightforward explanation of what to do and why it’s worth doing 👌 I feel I understand my bikes clutch system far better now. May have been useful to show how the lever operates the internal mechanism too ? Looking forward to seeing your video on front suspension upgrade ... wondering if it’s something a novice mechanic like me with basic tools can do at home :)
Hey Folks, i'd done the clutch change like listed and it's perfect. Thx
Brilliant, nice one! Hope you're enjoying your upgrade 😎👍🏻
Perfect, just got my rally and needed some confidence inspiring video to do a service :D Ordered from your link as a thank you guys.
14:18 The chain drives the camshaft in the head. I believe the outeer clutch basket is driven by the gear at the end of the crank
Clutch plates have different material your EBC kit (srk122) is Aramid and doesn’t need a soak, but as a general rule soaking is best if you don’t know the material (very long winded explanation) just pour oil over the night before the job. BTW Main constituent to concrete = sand - sand and gravel - hope you wiped them thoroughly before inserting into engine? Sand and aggregate (little rough stones) in engine = not the best ??? Did you do all 5 bolts up- hope you did your video shows 4 (maybe it was edited out?) - did you check the mesh filter while the side was off (right at bottom of exposed engine case...
Nice video, very well presented, well done 👍
Thank you! 👍
Great video. My clutch slipped this weekend so bad, that couldn't move a 3-degree slope upwards. Cable tension fixing helped mostly, but I still can't get up to full speed(5/6th gears basically are not usable). So I know what I'll be doing later next week.
@@lightweightadv ordered ECB.
Great intuitive vid thanks, now treat yourself to a quality Yorkshire beer that's in the corner behind you. cheers
Haha, trust me, they're long gone now 👌🏻
Can’t believe you didn’t torque those springs up. You’ve changed. Also not entirely sure why I’m watching this vid when I don’t have a crf250 😁. Cool vid though dude 👌🏼
@@lightweightadv you might be right. These do look appealing.
Yes, yes it does worry me!
great tutorial, my question is whether the Honda CRF 300 has the same repair kit, I recently burned the clutch while off-road driving😕
The 300 is different as its a slipper clutch. I'm sure it could be retrofitted like this, but I don't know the technical details
Great vid as always Marc. As soon as mine is out of warranty I’ll be doing this as my clutch is slipping already and it’s only got 400 miles on the clock. So hoping the adjusters will stop it or it’s a warranty repair (I hope).
Very fortuitous, planning to do mine this weekend.
I’m a big Honda fan but given this is off road bike then they could have given us access to the without needing to take the whole side casing off. Easy access makes changing a clutch so quick.
To complete your mods, you should install the waterpump extension plate with the bigger impeller.
@@lightweightadv facebook.com/CRFTHAILANDdotCOMmarket/posts/1381849781917384/
Great video! I'll be replacing my clutch this weekend and removing the judder spring as you have done. Can you let me know which jack lift stand you are using there?
Hi Paul, it's just a cheap one from ebay, nothing special or particular 👍🏻
nice content, when you install the plate, is there any marking which side either front or back? nice tutorial i havent install my EBC yet.
Excellent video, best one I've seen on the subject. One note: looking at the Honda diagram, looks like the innermost (steel plate) is actually a different part number, Honda calls it plate 'B' - did you reuse it? I'm guessing that with the jabber spring removed, all 4 steel plates should be identical?
@@lightweightadv so I figured out why they're different part numbers. The innermost 'B' plate is coated (matte grey) while the other steel plates are just raw polished metal. I'm guessing the coating adds a bit of friction?? Anyway, I'm putting in all new steel plates anyway, so might just do 4 of the regular polished steel ones.
Great video, and really useful as I have just killed the clutch on my CRF250 Rally!
Would you recommend I replace the steels as well and the plates as I have killed the clutch?
Also can you update the link for the friction plates you used ?
The steel plates tend not to wear out, but you will have to assess them when you take them out. I'm sure they're affordable if you wanted to replace them as a matter of course.
@@lightweightadv thanks
Thanks for excellent explanation of clutch replacement. Only detail I could not quite follow is where exactly the new HD clutch springs go?
@@lightweightadv Perfect sense, thank you
Great video sir..I like it, anyway i'm just want to know your review after long term using this clutch setting (By replacing clutch friction plate 'B' with same friction 'A'), is that anything strange behaviour at your bike?
Hey, thanks for the question! Tye bike is running perfectly with absolutely no odd behavior. Hope that helps 👌🏻
@@lightweightadv that's sound good...thanks for your respond...keep it up for more intresting video..
This is a perfect video - my clutch slips when accelerating hard and it's driving me mad (on a 2,000KM bike). I'll be ordering the exact same parts you've used this week. Question - do you discard the crappy judder spring system altogether and simply slide the first new friction pad in the basket followed by the plates pad plate pad etc?
@@lightweightadv Hi, million thanks for the reply. I took on the challenge this weekend and the bike has never ridden better. The EBC clutch and spring upgrade is an absolute must for this bike - my old clutch was absolutely shot after less than 2,000 km. So huge thanks and please keep making your videos. Next for me is the fork spring upgrade you posted recently. Cheers!
Thank you! Gives me some hope. Would the CB300 setup work for a Honda Rally 300? Burnt my clutch out on a rocky trail tonight
Hey, good question. The 300 has a slipper clutch, so it's different to the 250 🤷🏻♂️
@@lightweightadv thanks, really awesome you came back like that. Will do some investigation
Search for Pommey Biker, he did a 300 upgrade, think it included a cage swap, cant remember which clutch he fitted. All Marc's stuff is relevant, it's just the extra steps & the right clutch of course 😎
You akkpped the spring install. ? Where do they go?
Awesome video 📸💯%
Cheers dude, hope it helped 😎
Yes! I like the way you explain things how you enjoy working on your motorcycle your outlook on things makes people feel more confident working on their stuff and I appreciate it
Great video thanks for sharing. I've recently got a CRF 300 L and am wondering if this clutch mod would be of use for it?
@@lightweightadv Cheers, I'm still only breaking it in, or its breaking me in I can't tell. If that clutch goes against me I'll be adding Guinness to the gear box to calm it down :)
Useful video ,👍 I wonder if its possible to fit the rally 300 slipper clutch 🧐
@@lightweightadv i think I would probably agree with you.
Why do you need stronger springs for the clutch? Did you have any slipping problems with the stock ones?
Which service manual do you recommend buying for jobs like these ?
Sound great thank you
with what force we tighten the clutch cover screws ?
Err, I just did mine tight and then a bit 😅. Been fine for 15000 miles, so 🤷🏻♂️
Why did you use the CK 1313 plates rather than CK 1314 which seem to be for the CRF 250L. Also, any reason why you didnt go for carbon fibre plates (EBC DRCF277)?
Hey Frank, The 1313 pack is the same plate, used in the CBR 250 I believe, just minus the judder spring. They fit straight in. Didn't see the need for anything fancier than the 1313s...didnt even know a carbon fiber set exists til just now in all honesty. Not sure if have picked it regardless tbh 🤷🏻♂️. Hope that helps 👊🏻😎
@@lightweightadv I have the CRF 300L and the clutch is knackered after 1500 miles, including some difficult sections in the Peak District, so i need to rebuild it. I have two choices, replace with 300L OEM plates and it will no doubt happen again soon, or replace the basket and use better plates and 5 springs (as stock the 300L clutch only has 3 springs).
Ah, gotta admit, I'm not certain how to proceed on the 300 as it has a slipper clutch basket and I've not read up on them yet. Have you had it to a dealer yet?
Hey man , did you notice after a fresh clutch and fresh oil that the oil became dirty very quickly???
Not particularly, but I can't remember checking that closely to be honest 🤷🏻♂️
Question..... I have a 250l rally and I notice that you said "250 or 300 um whatever it is"? like 4 times.... do I get the 250 or the 300 kit?
You get the EBC CK1313 clutch set to do it as we did. The 300 is a different clutch setup, I'm not sure what plates they take, but the 250 varients take the 1313s 👍🏻
can we upgrade this bike to have a slipper clutch if we were to change it with a cb250 clutch plate ?
I think the entire basket etc would be very different. Not saying it's impossible, but probably quite an involved modification
@@lightweightadv oh also is there any order i should follow when putting back the plates like is there numbers or just toss them ? yeah seems i worded it out very wrong i meant to say whole thing can i just swap it out for a 2022 cb250 basket i thought since honda likes to keep their design as similar as possible till it cant be used again maybe i can just toss that thing in there i have a old cbr 250
@@lightweightadv also thx for quick response
Does the ebc kit ck1313 still retain the smaller first friction plate? Is there a kit that has 5 equal friction plates and steels?
Hi Simon, yep, it does away with the small friction plate (and the judder spring). This kit makes it a "regular" clutch 👊🏻😎
@@lightweightadv what about the B plate steel 22322-KZZ-901 listed in the Honda parts catalogue next to the narrow friction plate? Did you swap that out for the 902?
We kept all of the standard steel plates. Mine has run with the 1313 and stock steels for 9000 miles now, no problems 🙂👌🏻
Is the clutch pull annoying with the heavy duty springs?
Hey Sarah, no, not at all. It feels stock, the extra pressure is when engaged 👍🏻
Skipped over the springs and the oil filter
Hey. The clutch springs are at 17 mins and oil filter at 21 mins. I don't think they need any further explanation than this in all honesty, once you've taken them off, you've seen the orientation of them, so its just a matter of putting it back how you found it 👍🏻
So are you saying if I want to remove the judder springs you suggest Also removing that thinnest clutch plate? I don't understand that part
Yep, if you remove the spring, you need to replace the narrow plate with a full size one 😎👍🏻
@@lightweightadv okay so I don't need to buy the 100$ heavy duty clutch kit I can just buy any 1 full size friction disc to replace the thinnest one with, and I'll need a gasket and oil and filter and coolant obviously. Sounds alot cheaper! 👌
Yep, you can do that. The HD ebc kit in UK is only £40, is it really a hundred bucks where you are?
@@lightweightadv 100 us dollars you get the heavy duty clutch pack, the gasket and upgraded end springs. But after shipping its 115
Hmm, not awful then, that's around £70 befits postage in UK, so with postage and conversion rates, close to comparable 🤷🏻♂️
Did you run into any adjustment issues?
Not at all. It went straight in and is still running great after 8k miles 😎👌🏻
@@lightweightadv thank you. I just swapped mine . It was tough to get adjusted. ( almost like my cable is stretched. It bites great but did not want to completely disengage . It made shifting clunky
Have you managed to adjust it OK now?
This is the one thing I haven't don't to my bike . Is it worth doing lads even if your clutch is fine ? Or do I go for it on the next oil change ?
It's dealers choice to be honest. Jamie did his alongside a full service when the time was up, I did mine just because I could. If the bike is due a service, it's a no brainer to do it at that point. If it had just been serviced and the clutch was fine, I think I'd be holding out fir a few more miles. The upgrade is worth it, no doubt, its just a matter of when to spend the cash, not if. 👍🏻
@@lightweightadv I reckon I gotta do it , nowt left to do to the bike 😊 and you along with many other say it's a good upgrade .
I think Juddrt spring and spring seat is important not to remove him
It's all working well now 😎. 10,000 miles since it was removed
How much of a difference has it made to the bike please? Also is the clutch lever header to pull?
I don’t think so, just spent a fair bit on new suspension so the next thing I need is body armour. Looking forward to seeing the reviews you have coming!
I went with the YSS shock and the KTec spring for the front forks. Still waiting to fit the from spring. How are you finding the suspension upgrades?
An excellent video, which overtly covers what is removed and fantastically, how the return spring can fall out and how it should be located. All I needed to do, having followed these instructions was to use the major and minor adjusters as the new plates put it miles out. Excellent video. 👍
Cheers Simon, really pleased it helped you out 😎👍🏻
I hv a slipping clutch problem after changing the clucth, any advise?
@@lightweightadv should I remove judder clutch and change with the new 1? Because right now I'm using 4pcs new clutch and I still using prior OEM judder clutch
@@lightweightadv ok i will try, thanks for ur advice mate
I don't think that chain drives the clutch man, that chain is a timing chain ... And all it does it moves the cams ...
Die Lamellen müssen mit Motoröl getränkt werden vor der Montage,wurde vergessen !!!!!!!?
Die Kupplung hält ewig lange
Wenn Frau/Mann die Kupplung schleifen lässt verbrennen die Lamellen bei jeder Ölband-Lamellen Kupplung !!!
The material type on these plates don't need soaking. They got a good coat of new oil! It's still going, 15,000kms later 👌🏻