Impossible sketchy slabs from 1983
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- čas přidán 3. 11. 2019
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Slab climbing at its worst. Enjoy!
Heinz ► @heinzmariacher
Nathan ►nathanhoette
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#Climbing #4K - Sport
Slabs: How to turn an impatient climber into a patient one.
Or an unsuccessful one.
or just a patient
or have a mental breakdown
Or a dead one
Toshi lol s’insecure
Really love the silent moments where Magnus is climbing and all you hear is the background of nature
With the waves rolling in... I wanted to be there so bad.
Especially on slabs, the knife edge balances with perfect silence is powerful
And, you know, the relaxing buzzing of the drone that sounds like an angry bee swarm 😄
Well all you heard was mature and a drone 😁
@@grafzhl and traffic
1:50 Nathan Hoette dropping some SERIOUS wisdom "The grades are only a reflection of the difficulty for the person at that time"
It's always the simplest logic that should be the most obvious that really seems the most profound.
Absolutely!!!!
Which means that people "grading their climbs higher" are really just claiming how much they struggled. lol
18:08 unreal scenery, wow 😍
Heinz's handshake must be like sticking your hand in a vice.
What a cool person 🤩
These 80s guys were so bad ass. Love their vibe, so chill.
the old guys at my local crag are fucking assholes :(
@@Th3Nguyen ☹️
@@Th3Nguyen maybe it's just you bro.....if you talk more about the routes you've climbed than you do being out there with nature you're doing this for all the wrong reasons....yuppies have never really been looked kindly on in the climbing scene...or at least since the 80's when i started.
Or maybe it you...? You’ve made some huge assumptions about his comment. ... maybe the dudes at his ‘crag’ are arseholes ? You never know.
To then make it about when he was born an an implication on that - says more about you than him bud...
@@andrewfleming6487 lol, you no u'd me...
very few people are assholes to everybody.... it's not really an assumption as it is fact. granted i'm sure every old dude at his crag could be the exception and actually be complete wankers but i think *that* would be a huge assumption, did something i say strike a nerve with you? lol, it was only suggestions, self reflection is never bad.
Yes climbing outdoor
I ain’t leaving this comment without a comment
I like how this comment has 1k likes and no one has ever commented on it.
Omg i never noticed my comment had 1k likes hell yeah first ever .....still would like to see more out door climbing hahaha
Hmm yes, the rock is made of rock
@@scottiegrav 2.2 now
I know you said previously you get less views on these outdoor climbs. But I love them. The shots of the scenery and for us non climbers to see what a real rock wall at a certain grade looks like is amazing. Great job.
Magnus I love how you have included old pictures of the climbers as a tribute to them. That is humble & beautiful
Yes and these were some boomers. Magnus is Generation Y, people that still respected their elders unlike the snowflakes and millennials who were raised in a degenerated media system.
Of course, Magnus failed the first one. He had his shirt on!
“Never look like you have a hard time” that’s my new motto😂
yeah, loved that! that's the kinda climber I wanna be like now
That's what lions do (literally)
When did e say that?
To think that this one man single-handedly advanced the world of climbing shoes this much-all while being an accomplished climber in his own right-while ALSO giving the world modern ketchup.. Truly a gift to humanity.
The old routes are always the hardest!
For real. Got my ego crushed at an old school crag my first time outside. Went from climbing 5.11's at the gym to getting destroyed on old school 5.8's at Devil's Lake.
@@partykrew666 DL is definitely some of the hardest for the grades in the country. damn sandbagging oldies haha
Back then 5.11 was reserved only for the really hard routes and 5.13 was theoretical.
@@marcopervo oh totally. i guess historically at DL 5.9 was just the hardest grade at a point and there was no such thing as 5.10. so 5.8s are brutal and the few 5.12/13s look basically impossible.
@@partykrew666 currently in Frankenjura, first real rock climbing trip (simply none around where I live). Got some 6c+s under my belt in different gyms and am working on the first 7as. And on the rock here a lot of routes are either very hard for me, or flat out too dangerous to attempt.
Anyways, just keep climbing and you'll get there. I hope.
This video felt really special, I would love to see more of you outside with iconic climbers like Heinz!
homefreylf beanz?
I second this motion!
Magnus: "There's a 6C over here but they say it's almost worse than a 70+"
Me, a non-climber: "DAMN RIGHT....haha..ha"
SkunkCommand 7D+ not 70+ lol
@@nathanialreed7157 🤷🏻♂️
LMAOO FR
@@nathanialreed7157 Probably 7b+ actually, 7d isn't a thing ;)
I like how everyone had a default pfp
I really enjoyed that one Magnus, very chill. My favorite parts were when the music stopped and it was just the sound of the wind, waves, and the jingle of the draws on your harness.
"i think people just had like some kind of mental disorder back then and they thought it was really funny to climb these things"
"We called it. . .cocaine."
i think stuff like that is not about how you feel during the Climb it self but about the feeling when you finally accomplished it at least thats the case for me :)
@@TheAsdftill lol what are you doing here im scared XD
i'd do it
@@TheAsdftill I also learned about Magnus that way.
It's really interesting to hear about the different mentality and how different the grades seem to be.
Also that scenery is just beautiful
I'm not convinced the grades are sandbagged as much as it's just a very different style of climbing from what magnus does in his gym. Techy vertical climbs are climbs where you might have to put your foot on something smaller than a pinky nail, it's a very different style from the boulders that reward raw power and finger strength.
"Stop training for a year, you'd be significantly weaker but a better climber." Learn real technique instead of relying on power. I like that.
yeah its very true. technique can be a lot more important then strength overall. strength can almost be a crutch in ways and with better technique you can climb for longer without tiring out as much sense your more efficient with your movements.
Still have to train for technique tho
@@numbnuts375 nit nearly as hard as for power, but i agree 100 with you
why not train both, that seems more logical to me than one or the other
@@glitchinthematrix555 thats what most climber's do, but you learn technique best when you are weak. ondra was sending 8C+ before he could do a one armer, and the style of fast and precise climbing he built is exactly why he is the best climber in the world
Italy is beautiful, you have everything - alps, mountain, snow, perfect spots for climbing - but also the best sea, amazing beaches, flat lands, hills...
But it has shitty government 😢
The Gulf of Mexico is a really nice sea very clear light blue water
dont forget pizza :)
Outdoor climbing video!!!
Love the video!
I really like the videos, where there are some "interviews" with true legends, mixed with outdoors climbing.
Like the one you did with Alex Huber in Jordan.
(or the recent video on Adam Ondra's channel, with Stefan Fürst about the second ascent of the Route Qui)
By the way:
I WOULD LOVE TO SEE A COLAB OF YOU AND DAVE MACLEOD!!!
And:
I really have to go (back) to arco.
Thanks for the the cool video!
I second the Dave Macleod collab.
E
Yes I agree, this was such a great video interviewing legends and indulging in some history!
Collab with Adam Ondras Chanel please😍
I want to see Magnus on some sketchy gritstone trad.
Probably less views on a video like this (compared to the fun/ninja things) , but, damn, Magnus, so much more pleasure to watch as a climber ! Those slabs seems amazing, terrifying and humbling at the same time. And yes, we definitely can learn a lot from those old fashion style climbers! (what we gained in efficiency is probably a bit lost on elegance :))
It was really good to see you actually climbing for once!
yessss outdoor sport climbing is what ive been wanting to see. more sport in general honestly.
Absolutely!!! Easily the best vids!
Definitely miss seeing Magnus sport climbing! There's a lot of bouldering on CZcams.
Or Shirtless athlete
"Couldn't see any holds" is my favourite kind of climb
this is me climbing. Always, no matter what the grade is :D
My favourite climb is into a nice a bed.
the pictures of heinz in the 80's are amazing we need to bring the 80's dripped out style back to climbing lol
I know you've said you don't like to combine filming with hard climbing because one sacrifices the other, but this was a beautiful video! Such elegant moves, I'd love to see more slab climbing!! Always a fan
Glad to see a comeback of outdoor climbing vids! Would like more of those
i love the calm atmosphere and not click baity title, thanks for the video magnus!
I love the outdoor videos. Climbing real mountains is just a much better feel.
And seeing Magnus stand on a wall, just trying to see if anything is a hold at all, moving his hand back and furth, up and down..
Its fun.
I just wanted to take a quick second to say how lucky we are to be able to watch someone with such talent that his very sheer will and determination for what makes him happy is visible through every video to date! Keep up the great work n much love from america
I met you in arco :D was curious what you gonna climb there. Not disappointed :D
18:29 pretty picture with all the sailboats in the background.
Love this place. We go there almost every year for vacation, for 20 years now. We go there mostly for cycling. It's paradise
release it as a poster, Magnus! I'd buy it:)
Its worth noting here that Heinz is the inventor of the climbing shoe, and he did so during this same timeframe (early 80s).
I really missed those outdoor climbing videos. They’re just so relaxing and breathtaking
Unbelievably beautiful! That shot with the sail boats in the back ground!!! Awesome! Personally I enjoy all of your content, but the outdoor lead climbing is my favorite, and with the addition of the drone shots it was amazing. The only thing I could possibly ask for would be a few close ups of the holds themselves, and for you to talk us through them! especially the cruxes
do you know where this is?
What holds? 😂
How’s he gonna talk us through a hold while he’s climbing it? 😂
It’s crazy to see Magnus go slow and struggle on a route, I’m so used to him flashing the hardest boulders in a gym and call it a day or do things super smooth but to see him really work for a 5.11 is insane
The vibe of this video is everything I love about climbing! Good people, beautiful setting, and a great style of climbing!
Not many animals on earth can do this- what an amazing body we humans have if we train.
It's more the brain, the leverage and grips and problem solving. But I know what you mean. Most animals don't have the opposable thumbs
did you know that we would overcome by far a cheetah in a marathon ?
We also outrun every animal long distance
mountain goats are pretty good slab climbers
I love it when you climb outdoor. I'm old school, inside climbing is just training in my eyes, the real thing is outside!
best camera work to date imo. Also, I love how even though you could easily just show off your strengths, you acknowledge your weaknesses and work on them.
Wow, what an absolutely stunning location.
We enjoy learning from you and learning with you. Loved this video.😇
Favourite video for ages!! I know the outdoor videos take way more effort to make so thanks for doing it!
These videos are my favourites, I love the mad scenery and watching how you manage to climb these beautiful rock faces and finding the holes not just seeing a bright coloured grip
Damn so cool you had Heinz on! He even designed my all time favorite shoe (Boostic)
He also makes the best ketchup...
The photos from the magazines are incredible, awesome. It's so funny how they wouldn't tell anyone they were featured. When he followed that up with 'you'd wait for someone to ask,' I think secretly they all enjoyed getting some attention.
Would have liked to see Heinz (and the grinning guy) do some actual moves. It's always interesting to see a legend, and compare old- and new-school movements.
Bla Blum I agree. I would love to see some video of slab masters climbing everything from 5.5 to 5.12. I’ve seen some in person and it’s mind blowing.
What an amazing video, you can really see how much Heinz enjoys those routes, and seeing people come to attempt the stuff he did 30+ years ago
2nd: Arco is one of the most magnificent places on earth - best ice cream, cheap and good wine... and God, this nature is beautiful!
beautiful sea, beautiful mountains, beautiful man. What is not to love. How thrilling to watch
i just thought about how crazy it is humans can climb a vertical cliff with just their bodies meanwhile i struggle to do pull-ups
Buy some exercise bands, wrap them around a pull up bar and put your feet in them. And with that extra help you can start doing pull ups and build up the right muscles to do your own without any help.
Consistency in the long run achieves anything. Start today even if it's one pull-up, do negatives otherwise, stay consistent. Not saying you'd be an expert but sign up to a climbing gym today and you'll be sufficiently capable within a year. Stick to it (or anything else) longer than that even, you can learn pretty much anything
Doing pull ups and climbing are completely different altought It look similar
Climbing heavily involves the use of your legs.
Become a slab guy. There are very sketchy slab routes that one could climb without the ability to do two pull-ups in a row. Just get good at standing on sketchy holds with good footwork and balance, and you can climb thing that would make ripped gym rats crap their pants.
17:38 That right there is such a great shot.
Seventeen thirty eight
What’s should I think about to climb like you?
Heinz: “You shouldn’t think”
😂😂
Watching these videos, gives me the same chills in my palms and feet that I feel at the indoor gym. It’s crazy how just watching I can feel myself climbing
the way you guys read a rock face is so fascinating and impossible looking, I love this
More outdoor climbing! That is why I watch your channel.
Hey its Nathan from scarpa who gives really good presentations of their shoes! I love him!
Awesome video! Loved to see these older routes, especially with the person who bolted and originally climbed them giving a little backstory and perspective of the times, super cool content, keep it up Magnus! Cheers.
This video was shot in Italy - Arco and Garda lake. I love these places and I love this video. Thank you.
best video since 6 months so far .. the real rock magnus, i like him more than the other stuff magnus :D
Doesn't matter how chill I feel, I always start sweating my hands and feet when I watch these
Heinz is the one guy we all wish we have as our climbing buddy
This was super fun to watch!! I like how Heinz was there giving his opinions on the route and a small history of what climbing was like in the 80s. It's nice to see outdoor climbing be it lead or bouldering!
Slab is definitely humbling. Barely sent this 5.9 once and couldn’t feel my calves after, can’t imagine how hard these were
That's the content I subscribed for!!
Magnus, i dont know what drives you insane guys to climb such a crazy mountain side but i have to say you all are madfully talented bro. i am so impressed at what you guys do so please be safe out there.
The backdrop around 21:00 is so beautiful, then they pull back the shot and there are all those sailboats. That looks like a great trip!
Love these outdoors climbs. The views are spectacular!
Fantastic editing on this video, really enjoyed the raw climbing with the sounds of nature.
one of my favorite videos you've ever made Magnus! more like this please :) if you have the time and space for it lol
Magnus, you are an incredible climber! I have climbed quite a bit in my life and now that I’m old and fat, I can climb no more, lol. But I know enough to disagree with those who say you lack form and just crush the route. I have seen your video’s and it’s amazing the way you just glide over a pitch. You move like you are climbing some imaginary wall on the International Space Station, and gravity just doesn’t exist. I know it’s hard to find a cameraman just hanging out half way up a big wall as in this video, but keep making these things. You are a joy to watch and your content is memorable and instructive. So even if I get to a point where I have to chalk my fingers so I don’t drop my iPad, I’ll be waiting for and watching every new video. Thanks!!
22:25 such a dope picture
This the type of climbing I enjoy watching you doing it. You're such a inspiration, I've been climbing indoors for 6 months, I am starting to climb 12a's ans b's now (top rope though), was able to lead a 11b outdoors, and when I need to get pumped before a climb, I watch your blogs to get that inspiration. Keep up the good work.
You rocked it well Magnus!! 10 thousand people wish they could do that !
I started climbing 3 years ago and this week I will try my very first 7a. I know its not a big thing but Im really excited about it. Been watching your videos for a while and you've been a truly inspiration 👏👏
7:39 Really exemplary grigri technique ;)
Loove it! I've been climbing for a year and I can only lead 6a outdoors, so I learn and benefit so much from this type of videos. I thought that steps and holds that I use are small and was proud of them, but I can see that I still have a super long way to go ;) Thanks Magnus!
edit: Also, I love the fact that you invite other climbers, especially those who were pioneers in this sport - their stories are super interesting and they all seem like incredibly humble people.
One of my favorite videos this year. Very cool stuff. Thanks Magnus
that silence on a high rock, only interrupted by gusting wind - love it, it's so primal.
More of this pleasee
Just Magnus and random routes
THIS is the stuff I'm always waiting for
Cannot help commenting on editing. It is excellent whoever did it.
Loved watching this, beautiful climbs and top level historical banter.
No way.. I am so exited before watching this video!
If I gues it right that it is climbing in the mountains I want to watch this Video so much!
Damn you slabs!! I get sweaty hands just watching other people climb them 🙈
I absolutely love the outdoor climbing videos! And the sort of interview vibes with climbing legends are amazing. Great video!
14:30 i like watching a pro guiding his hands even when he is supported. Not to undermine your attempt of course; far better than I have attempted.
that wind blowing makes it so ominous and terrifying LOL
Love the lead climbing!
One of your best videos, Magnus. Has a real climbing short film feel to it that's awesome, and really great to hear from two old school experienced climbers.
Magnus this is the best video I've seen from you in a while. Thanks for making it. It's great to see you meeting some of the greats of the sport and working on your "weaknesses"!
Loved this sooo much. Those are my places, greetings from Italy :)
7:02 Heeellll nooo I just about had a heart attack lol
Very nice idea to check out some old classic routes and to speak with the original first ascentionist! Well done!
Oh how I love route climbing videos and the spirit of the old times :) Great work!
Yey finally some lead climibing again!
You couldn’t pay me all the money in the world to do that God bless you
the most beautiful way of climbing... so much balance and technique
love your chalkbags, i don't understand how yours are the only one i really like visually
Ur videos are awesome keep progressing my man