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Replacing the Power Cord on a Sewage Pump
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- čas přidán 1. 07. 2019
- In this video, Chris shows you how to replace the power cord on a Myers Sewage pump.
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Good job! Exactly what I needed to see!
Glad I could help!
Hey Chris, you've become my hero as of late! My Myers (1/2 hp 12.5 Amp 115 V single-phase...or so the specs to my Myers control panel nearby say on the badge...I've downloaded the schematic for my panel model, which is CE(DS) - 11SW ) sewage pump, which was down in a concrete vault 8 or 9 feet, and associated alarm went off again....2nd time since this past summer, went off about 5 years ago for 1st time for me (city worker told me to spray some degreaser on the floats and hose 'em off...I did...worked for 5 years apparently) and last time I'm afraid. All told, it has lasted 22 years having been installed in 1997 before I moved into the house in 2003.
There are 3 green Myers tethered mercury float switches in the vault (as you know!) at 3 different levels: Stop - Run - Alarm
Now, I'm a caveman, but I do believe these switches are normally OPEN, and close enabling a circuit at 10 degrees angle or such.
Sound familiar? Yep...you know this beast(!) Oh, BTW, the alarm buzzer goes off for high water...but it just registered with me that the red alarm light has NOT lit up...ever. And I think I know why. I checked the two 1A fuses and both had accumulated corrosion. No continuity on the one (though I cleaned it and it shows continuity...not that I intend to reuse it!) on the left side and the schematic indicates it is part of the alarm light circuit. The RH side fuse, though also corroded, was just good enough to fir up the buzzer(!)
** Am I workin' ya too hard? That's OK 'cause I been crappin' up in the woods for almost 2 weeks now! **
:) (Really, TIA for any insight/comments/advice.)
* The situation now: the pump/panel won't run in "Auto' mode & can't be switched into 'Manual' mode as the toggle immediately (almost violently!) switches into the 'Off' state.
* After cleaning the floats back in June the 'Stop' or lowest hanging float I noticed was sunk! It was at the end of its tether and under the surface of the water. Not good. (Could I have sprayed it too hard with the hose such that it rocked & hit the side of the vault too hard or many times? There's no visible sign of a crack or a hole although I suspect the very top where the cord enters the float..can't say exactly why but it's my gut feeling.)
* I wasn't able to get any continuity reading off the float wires. I turned them each sideways as if floating & checked on the meter which seemed to be the logical position/angle to me. However, I was by myself and it was awkward trying to do the readings and hold 'em at the same time(!)
* I wasn't able to get squat off the leads to the pump motor (disconnected from power & breaker OFF!) except when I connected the Green wire to the Yellow wire (there's no white in the 4: Black - Red - Yellow - Green
Black to Yellow should have shown a small resistance according to the Myers specs, like 1.33 to 1.47 Ohms @ R x 1, but absolutely nothing showed on my meter! :(
The Red wire went to terminal #7 (last one left as the floats use 1 - 6), the Black wire went to a terminal labeled M1, the Yellow to a terminal M2 and the Green went over to the ground block. So, as a caveman livin' & crappin' here in the Ozarks it looks like 2 hot Commons, a Neutral, and a Ground. You're proud of me, I know!)
Currently, I hoisted the motor out of the vault so that I could do a 'Turd Autopsy'! LOL Really....prior to that last week I made a little mesh scoop bucket to dip down in the water to see what I might catch. I wasn't crazy about that: sanitary wipes, some little grey plastic sprockets, small glass pieces, some beads, a thin palm-sized piece of wood and some marble-sized or slightly bigger pieces of cement mortar from the sloppy job the workers did finishing the inside concrete/brick for the part of the vault that sticks above ground...about 3 or 4 bricks high...and upon which the heavy lid rests(!) I can see several more chunks of mortar/gravel stuck in place on the inside up high...but for how long?
I've about got the vault drained of all gray water and have NOT been doing any laundry, using the toilet inside or bathing for that matter! (Woa! That & greasy hair are scaring people I think!) My ladder is already in it. I'm a gonna get down there and shovel out whatever sludge/solids remain and put them thru a sifter I made. Inquiring minds want to know what's down there.....
Muwahahahahahahahaaaaaa.......
OK, Chris. That's it for now. There'll be a quiz over this material next Tuesday. Please review your notes! ::)
PS The local health dept is supposed to repair this unit. (I live in Missouri, BTW) However, the city water bureau has told me informally that any repairs/parts are the resident's responsibility on these sewage systems. Should that be the case I would like to discuss with you/R. C. Worst Co. on the phone where I can get a similar float, and possibly a new pump if this one can't be rebuilt somewhere close to me...so I don't have to ship it!! Mercy...it's like 85 lbs.! (The base/discharge metal is starting to shear off like chalk...haven't cleaned off the upper motor part good enough yet to see if its metal casing is deteriorating too. Probably...!
Have a gooder one!
Woah! Now that's a comment! My gut is saying float switch failure and possibly issues in the control box. You are welcome to call to discuss the details.
Also normally that oil is typically just standard mineral oil since mineral oil is already dielectric!
I recommend discharging the run capacitor before servicing the pump. If you don't know why or don't know how, you need to educate yourself on the topic in order to avoid getting zapped. It can hurt a lot and at worst will kill you.
Chris what is type of oil you should put in the pump.
Dielectric/Transformer oil
If the capacitor is blown, is it required to change the oil, or can the oil be filtered back in?
Great job
Thank you
Thanks for watching!
Whats the best method to connect a float valve to a sewer pump?
Hello friend... Can you plz tell me how I remove stator from the motor body...
How do you replace the capacitor?
I have Gould’s pump like that it needs a new cord haven’t had time to search to see if I can get a cord But with this pump in the video it looks like it’s just a standard threaded in the water tight connector that clamps around the cord I basically could just buy a new one of those! Though on my Gould’s pump it had a water tight thread in fitting and a special epoxy water stop Barrier built into the cord so that water wouldn’t wick down the individual strands of wire! This pump doesn’t have that feature and I think I could probably get away with a similar set up for such a old Gould’s pump!
I'd say it's worth a shot, you might want to hit the new cord grip with some epoxy after tightening to add a layer of water protection.
How many liters of oil fill in 2 hp myers sewage pump?
You want to fill to the top of the motor windings
@@RCworstwater thank you Sir, i can't find a turbine oil,is it ok if i replace it with 5w 30 fully synthetic oil?
How to remove the core of a sewage pump buddy