Play it open: Onkyo A-65 Amplifier + Onkyo TA-2055 Tape deck

Play it open: Onkyo A-65 Amplifier (1982) + Onkyo TA-2055 Tape deck (1982-84). One of Onkyos very underrated tape decks is the 3 motors TA-2055 with direct drive capstan. Outstanding sound and very stable speed with reliable mechanic makes this deck a good vintage buy if in good condition.
See Onkyo A-65 Amplifier + Onkyo TA-2055 Tape deck + Onkyo CP-1150F Turntable on my other video: • Onkyo A-65 Amplifier +...
ONKYO TA-2055 Tape deck:
Specifications
Type: 2-head, single compact cassette deck
Track System: 4-track, 2-channel stereo
Tape Speed: 4.8 cm/s
Heads: 1 x record/playback, 1 x erase
Motor: 1 x DD, 2 x DC
Tape Type: type I, CrO2, Metal
Noise Reduction: B, C
Frequency Response: 20Hz to 19kHz (Metal tape)
Signal to Noise Ratio: 80dB (dolby C)
Wow and Flutter: 0.035%
Input: 50mV (line), 0.3mV (mic)
Output: 1.1V (line)
Dimensions: 418 x 100 x 370mm
Weight: 6.7kg
Finish: silver
Year: 1982
ONKYO A-65 Amplifier (Super Servo Integrated Amplifier)
Power output: 100 watts per channel into 8Ω (stereo)
Frequency response: 2Hz to 50kHz
Total harmonic distortion: 0.015%
Damping factor: 50
Input sensitivity: 0.35mV (MC), 2.5mV (MM), 150mV (line)
Signal to noise ratio: 68dB (MC), 80dB (MM), 85dB (line)
Output: 150mV (line)
Semiconductors: 8 x IC, 51 x transistors, 33 x diodes, 26 x LED
Dimensions: 418 x 151 x 402mm
Weight: 15.5kg
TA-2055 plays "Bird set free" performed by Sia from TDK SA-90 tape
• Sia - Bird Set Free (L...
Speakers: Jamo dynamics D5E (190/300 watts, 8 ohms)

[@AudioElectronicsChicago]

Nice

[@lukashudec8759]

Beautiful

[@hifiboy3896]

Thanks :-)

[@kforkrish]

Can you locate where's door eject spring and soft eject thing happens?
Bought same model with cassette door dismantled, i reinstated door but ejection still needs physical help while changing cassettes. (Opens little enough to pull out door by index finger)
I may have been thugged but I'm hoping the needed gears and springs are still in the mechanism and yet to be re attached if there's any. Reason I'm afraid to perform further repair myself without knowing any little about it, or i may unintentionally damage it further.

[@artivideobup8743]

I have the TA2055. Have you ever replaced the idler tire ? If so can you explain how to do it ? I also had the A65 and the T35 in the passed but I exchanged them for the TX-DS989 receiver

[@hifiboy3896]

Yes. I have already changed the Idler on about 50 decks :-) First you have to check if there is a matching Idler for your Tape model possible to buy. E.g. @ ebay. But you have to be careful, because there are also bad sanitary seals or other rubber parts offered as "Idlers". This can go so far, that these are made of plastic instead of rubber and then slip. All this has already happened. If there is no idler for the tape deck type, you either have to use a (good) O-ring or a suitable seal (e.g. 3/8" which does not fit always on every vintage Onkyo deck). However, you have to make sure that the material is rubber, not plastic, and that it has the appropriate adhesive properties. There are 2 ways to do this then: the more complex way, or the easy way. The regular way is: The drive has to be removed. Remove the 4 screws of the drive and disconnect the connectors. Before doing so, remove the small belt to the Hall sensor (tape run control + Autostop). This can be a little tight under certain circumstances. Remove the front panel of the deck and the cover (viewing window) of the cassette door. Now you can unscrew the metal plate above the idler (2 screws) and take it out. Option 2: Do not remove the drive, just remove the front panel of the deck and the cover (window) of the cassette door. Now you can unscrew the metal plate above the idler (2 screws) and take it out. The idler wheel must be removed, because the chance that you can take the rubber off without breaking anything is small. The idler wheel is secured with a very small, transparent plastic disc. This must come off, but must not be lost! You can stick a piece of transparent adhesive tape over it so that it does not fly away when you take it off. I always take the locking ring off with a small, pointed kitchen knife. But there are also other ways. Then you can remove the idler wheel. You have to be careful, there is often a small, usually brown or black spacer washer underneath, on the axle, which you should also not lose. When the wheel is removed, you can take off the idler rubber. This is not always so easy when it is tight. Here, too, I first use a small, pointed kitchen knife to lift the rubber. Then you put on the new rubber (or O-ring or seal) and put the wheel back on. You should first test it by running the tape forwards and backwards, using your finger or an inserted cassette to prevent the idler wheel from jumping off during the test run. If you put the lock washer on and take it off too often, it will be damaged or lost. In the test run you can see whether and how it works. You should also clean the two running surfaces of the winding discs on the right/left (black plastic discs with the grippers) with isopropanol and a cotton swab. Also clean the brass wheel of the winding motor. If you do not have an exactly fitting O-ring or seal, you will have to "experiment" until it works. You may have to test various types until you find the optimum solution. Because the replacement can also be minimally too large or small in diameter and then it doesn't grip or blocks. This is not always so easy, takes time and also needs some experience. When it works again, don't forget to put on the transparent lock washer. I stick it on a piece of adhesive tape to prevent it from jumping off, place it and press it in with the fingernails of two fingers of each hand (for more force). Then assemble everything. Good luck!

[@dimitarnachevmityooo6718]

I wonder which tuner model has this design with illuminated buttons?!

[@hifiboy3896]

I dont know any Onkyo tuner from this aera who has it. Usual a tuner what Onlyo did recommend in the catalogue from this area (1982/83) was the T-35, hat I also used with the A-65.