Lathe chuck: Full teardown and service guide (DIY) | Auto Expert John Cadogan
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I can well remember at high school, over 60 years ago, fitting the 3 jaw P&B chuck to the old Govt issue "Myford" lathe with one jaw out of phase and a lump of heavy bar stock in it on high spindle speed. Nearly shook the lathe off the bench and attracted the unwelcome attention of "sir". A valuable lesson learned for a future career as a fitter and machinist, that I survived with no bits missing.
Respect
As a machinist, I approve of this message.
Along with using wood for protection, I also put a large piece of brass stock in the spindle. Then when I release the chuck, it has some temporary support and I can get both my mits on it for better support. Especially useful when removing a freaking heavy 8 inch(sorry 203.2mm)chuck.
P.S. This chuck has 3 grease fittings on it. Go figure.
Been machining for 40 years, Never took a lathe chuck apart,
It's normal for fine swarf to get into the scroll and jaws,
Usually removing the jaws and compressed air while spinning the scroll with the chuck key does the trick in under 2 minutes.....
Much better video than the Sky News tryouts you've been doing lately.
Harsh compliment...
I also have an AL960B its a good entry level Taiwanese lathe. My Takasawa TSL800 engine lathe is a thing of beauty, made in Japan at the peak of their manufacturing excellence in 1986 Nice breakdown of of how to disassemble and clean a 3 jaw scroll chuck.
i remember many years back being involved in a wood turning course. a young student, came in late one day, all gang Ho, and definitely feeling superior to us oldies. he wouldn't listen to anyone, he grabbed his piece of tree trunk, walked up to a lathe, and secured his workpiece. he grabbed a large chisel and tried to take a deep cut. the workpiece grabbed the chisel spun it right out of his hand. and lodged itself deep into the ceiling some 5 feet behind him. our teacher, a good union man, took his somewhat polished right boot and lodged it right where the sun dont shine. we never saw the guy after that.
Yeah, that's not a teachers boot lace. No need to assault the student.
@@indianchallenger8148 i will say this, that instructor 'retired' not long after this event. he was sorely missed, once the new guy turned up. strait laced and no sense of humour. an absolute ball breaker. but a good teacher, in his way.
I personally know an ex-trade teacher. He was strict on safety. Hair and clothes not hanging out, etc. Most of the other teachers had bugger all experience and protected their jobs by bullying and harassing the teacher in subtle ways as they do when they feel threatened with a lack of knowledge.
I had a similar thing as a heavy vehicle truck trainer. I was strict, but we still had fun, being drivers.
I like to call things “groover’s” whenever I can, today would of been most appropriate-dude
Mark the mating faces before removing rear of chuck to ensure accuracy when reassembling.
G'day John, I saw this video on CZcams, and I instantly thought of the Auto Expert. It's a funny video, but it's ruley, ruley, ruley informative at the same time.
It's titled " Can This Forgotten Invention Save Your Life"
Its producer is Australian.
Another informative and entertaining contribution. Thanks John. More like this please.
CRC Longlife is also a great product for stopping corrosion.......
I have a 20l drum & fill a spray bottle. Very economical way to use i. It goes on everything. The Sonax range of products looks ok. Never heard of it before.
Thanks for the valuable info, John. I’m absolutely envious of that shop, especially the giant Darth.
love this stuff
Might have to add a disclaimer about using flammable products in an Ultrasonic Cleaner, big no no
Where did you go?...please, more content!
Hi John,
yes it is important to start the installation of the jaws in numerical order, starting at #1.
if this is not done then the jaws are out of phase and one scroll turn out, resulting in the jaws not meeting at the centre of the chuck when fully wound in.
3:24 Don't forget the 4 jaw self centring chuck. Seen those too, and wondered why the machinist was swapping out a 4 jaw chuck for a 4 jaw chuck 🤔.
29:27 A mate of mine has a lathe (hobbyist rather than serious metalworking) that has a spot in the headstock to put the check key. If the chuck key isn't in there, the lathe will not start.
Such a simple solution, it makes me wonder why it's not standard on all lathes & drill presses.
Hi John, you seem to have experience with all the potential discharges from a lathe chuck. That chuck doesn't seem to have seen much use.
I would agree with your comment on quality of Taiwan built machines v China.
It is important to insert in a set order, if you don't they will be in the wrong place on the scroll and therefore not end up equidistant from the spindle axis. If you have the jaws out and look at them on the back, you will clearly see the step between each jaw, which represents the 1/3 rotation of the scroll between adjacent jaws.
I remember my school days in the Machine shop introduced to a Colchester Student lathe, no eye protection offered in those days in the mid 50s, one day I was put on a Nuttal and not given any real instruction, put a block of wood on the bed [thank God] and lifted a chuck into place and screwed it on, neglecting, through ignorance, to screw the locking collar onto the back of the chuck, pulled the start lever, unaware that releasing it did not result in the chuck gently returning to a halt, in my panic, figuring I would be in deep DoDo if the chuck rapidly coming of the spindle sailed onto the ways and gouged it [remember the block of wood] grabbed it external auto brake fashion at 750 revs, brought it to a halt, only damage was a rip into one of my fingers, Instructor just said, "stick it in a bucket of Kerosine" No real instruction and no OHS regulations.
As an Auto Electrician we had to disassemble the chuck on a regular basis due to the copper swarf from machining armatures and rotors. Also linishing with emery paper creates a lot of dust acting just like valve grinding paste.
Quite right on the emery.
Plus, copper: so fricken gummy on the tools.
Come on John. Give us some MORE EV fires... Keep the flame going... lol
Packaging greasy crap - Dragon fat perhaps?
Yeah the 960 definitely better than the Al336.
Has the wife asked for her tea towel back?
Red tack - use that kind of stuff in the grease gun for pins on the shop forklift. Seems to work fine.
When turning something rusty or say cast iron- where possible I put something on the ways beneath to catch the crap.
Yes the machining set will get excited about ones choice of lube😀
John, what happened to your "old" drill press?
I'm in the market for a new second hand drill press.
John.
I have a 2012 N70 Toyota Hilux it has 240,000ish KM on the clock and I am an avid four wheel driver. My pervious two four wheel drives made at either end of the 90's (Pajero than a Hilux) had issues with their rear diffs at this amount of Km on the clock. My Questions are as follows.
1. Has the metallurgy changed enough for me not to warry with this amount of KM on the clock.
2. If I need to get the rear diff replaced can I get an Air locker fitted with the ABS system as it is less expensive than a factory Limited Slip Diff or will the ABS freak out if I fit a locker or will it be okay as it has individual tone rings on each rear axle?
How much crud/grit was left in the Sonic Cleaner when you finished? Another informative vid. 👍
Ahh John, if I close my eyes right now I can hear that heavy southern drawl shouting across the room in year 8 Farm Mechanics, "Chuck key, chuck key, CHUCK KEY!!!". God bless you George Matthews.
Now that you mention it, mate, I can hear that too. Gesta non verba...
Mobil Vactra 2 is great on the ways. Super slick. It does tend to stain a little though.
I just use slideway oil there...
That's what it is designed for. The stuff is awesome for preventing stiction.
On a side note, the Practical Machinist forum is a wealth of information, too. Just don't discuss Asian machine tools... they're a little precious about that...😂.
Steve's Small Engine Saloon channel has a great utrasonic cleaner tips video - put the dirty parts in a jar or ziplock bag with cleaning solvent, and fill the main tub with water. Saves $$$ of kerosene and no need to clean the tub and much less dirty fluid to dispose of - it's a game-changer! Check out Steve's channel.
You would be surprised at the number of machine shops who never service their chucks, they just get a bigger chuck key or a length of pipe.
Not to be a smartarse but you’ll bust the balls off your balldriver Allen keys by undoing tight fasteners like that. Crack with the short end, drive out with the ball end. Thanks for a great video John.
But they’re just floating not tight, get yu point tho’ for other hex dcrews.
was the wheel cleaner washed into the street, and eventually into Lake Parramatta?
Welp, I've already butchered the chuck on my Atlas 109. Right now, I'm running that exact red ring drill chuck on not only one of my drills, but my lathe also takes ½-20, so I'm running that drill chuck on my lathe for tiny parts as well.
Any suggestions as to what lathe might be good for the home workshop? And where best to buy? I have been thinking about getting one for some time 👍
AL960b is a really nice lathe from Hare and Forbes. I've had one for 11 years now. Can be set up to be a sweet unit which holds fine tolerances. Get a dro, very handy.
czcams.com/video/JFcVNywya-Q/video.htmlsi=jlyCr0ynHLbTSkIS
Use a 4 jaw, more fun to set up 😂
Ah, I see you also steal the lunchboxes from the kitchen. My shed shows the evolution of Tupperware, Systema and Decor over the decades. Never had to pull my lathe chuck apart but some good tips here. Particularly about the wood.
I consider it more of a 'borrow'. She can have them back on request. (I'm not breath-holding.)
Pay attention young fella. Watch the essence of the video instead of looking all around the workshop like a bored apprentice.
Hahaha. 🤣🤣🤣🤣
@@indianchallengeraussieride8488 Classic!
What are you doing in that workshop of yours that you've drilled so much it needs a tear down?
I did a fair bit of boring the other day. Boring ejects a lot of chips into the back of the chuck (area). Plus, as I explained in the video - it's generally a good idea to pull fairly new cheap chucks apart, to clean out residual grinding dust from manufacturing.
@@AutoExpertJC why am I not surprised you were boring?
There is never any grinding material left from new, just clean lube😂
Haven't got one. Will never have one. Couldn't care less
A collaboration video with CEE ?. Now that would be cool.
Johnny hope ya washed ya hands bro after sealing the drill press with anti corrosion oil !!!
No, I haven't washed my hands since.
I gather the usual rules apply: Safety, use the correct tools correctly, do not use excessive force, strip to a sequence ...
👌
Thank you sincerely JC for this one.
New machine day for me, and I was contemplating doing just exactly this to the new 3 jaw chuck, because it’s a lot tighter to turn the chuck key as the jaws get closer to the centre, so I’m thinking full of grinding dust probably.
czcams.com/video/JFcVNywya-Q/video.htmlsi=jlyCr0ynHLbTSkIS
Be certain not to put witness marks on a jaw face particularly if your jaws are reversible. That will quickly ruin any sort of concentricity you might have had if you need to flip them around.
Gold tip.
& you can go “hoo” post chuck as much as you like, you need bin cam for our pleasure, so we can go hoo-ray , -dude, ( did you see the pun fella?)
Take out the jaws and blow out the scroll while rotating the key and you’re back in business 👍
Yeah - quite right. But I also wanted to get rid of any residual grinding dust. And I thought the teardown would make a decent DIY video.
Plus the chips that end up between the spur gears at the back
Robert is your avuncular cousin...
ThumbUp &Comment 4AIgozAll
Probably a Chinesium chuck 😂
Nice gay t-shirt John. You will need a new t-shirt soon. So 2022 ish
I'm still disappointed you can see it. One day it'll be proper cammo...
@@AutoExpertJC Time to go to Jay Jay's for the watermelon shirt!
John, you are normally pretty good, but this one was overkill and waffle. Sorry, mate
Not for the total novice.
@@janstafford1490 I am a total novice. But I do understand mechanical stuff.
Yeah fuck... This one was a snoozer.
Your opinion only
@@ToyBJAh, not really. Quite a few people have agreed. So maybe you don't have an opinion at all.
Fuck around john!!! C'mon man just use a longer pipe on your chuck key if it binds up.... For fuck sakes
I knew you’d find something you’re good at…co2 and global warming wasn’t you👍
Iv Watched you a long time full of knowledge, but your extended dribble bores the fuck out of me.. just saying