Buy These Tools If You're a New Maker (per Adam Savage)
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- čas přidán 7. 09. 2023
- Which tools does Adam Savage recommend for new makers? Does Adam have a favorite EDC knife or folding ruler? What would Adam change about his tattoo? And ... PUPPETS???!!! In this livestream excerpt, Adam answers questions from Tested members Christopher DiNunno Jr, George Farren, DGMA, Austin B and John England, whom we thank for their support!
IRWIN QUICK-GRIP Bar Clamps: amzn.to/42r2FGB
RWIN Tools VISE-GRIP Pliers: amzn.to/41mjPEB
IRWIN Marples Forstner Bit Set: amzn.to/3Lzl8Km
Fiskars Heavy Duty Die Cast, Exacto: amzn.to/3HGyfs0
X-ACTO #2 Knife: amzn.to/426Zcxg
Adam's Temporary Tattoo: tested-store.com/products/ada...
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Intro bumper by Abe Dieckman
Thanks for watching! - Věda a technologie
IRWIN QUICK-GRIP Bar Clamps: amzn.to/42r2FGB
RWIN Tools VISE-GRIP Pliers: amzn.to/41mjPEB
IRWIN Marples Forstner Bit Set: amzn.to/3Lzl8Km
Fiskars Heavy Duty Die Cast, Exacto: amzn.to/3HGyfs0
X-ACTO #2 Knife: amzn.to/426Zcxg
Adam's Temporary Tattoo: tested-store.com/products/adam-savages-temporary-ruler-tattoo
With thanks to Tested members Christopher DiNunno Jr, George Farren, DGMA, Austin B and John England, for questions and support!
Disclaimer: Tested may earn an affiliate commission when you buy through the links here.
Of course it's the Marples, one of the really good sets of Forstner sets for the money. You can spend more, but the increase in quality is marginal at best. :)
Not mentioned, but I think those Stepped drill bits are also super handy. However, a quality one is probably a good idea, if you plan to drill metal often, just to make sure it remains sharp. They can also double as a way to make the hole tapered, or to remove a bur after drilling.
If plastic is all you plan to use it on, Harbor Freight sells a 3-pack of different sized ones, for just a few bucks! So Rheem if somehow it does dull, you're not out much to buy replacements. 😊
The Japanese make great tools. If you can find them, almost any Japanese version of a common tool is going to be well-designed and well-made.
my addition to this list, a vise. it's incredibly useful to be able to securely hold something while working on it
I got by without one for a loooong time but it lead to the most jank scenarios
An essential tool for pretty much any workshop, I would say. I've got a small 50mm one I clamp to my desk at home when I need it.
It really is an essential
And from my experience, don't cheap out on a little pillar drill vice
It doesn't need to be massive, but go for something sturdy
1:40 Another CZcamsr showed a fantastic use for speed clamps, by using them for mixing the paint in those tiny tins of paint, that are made for model makers.
He grabbed one of the smallest size speed clamps and screwed it into a jigsaw, where the blade normally goes. Then he clamped the paint tin into place and turned on the jigsaw for a few seconds. The paint was mixed!
I was able to re-mix paint that had been sitting there for over a year. I just had to mix it for a longer time. I like to tape the tin in place, just to be sure. Also, it doesn't work for the little glass jars, because they'll just fly out and make a mess.
Mr. Irwin invented the Twist Drill. In fairly recent times, his cimpany took over the Petersen Mfg. Co. Petersen invented Vise Grips.
Even more recently, Malco purchased and reopened the old Petersen plant in DeWitt, Nebraska to manufacture their Eagle Grip line of locking pliers (along with Snap-On’s Made in USA branded locking pliers).
Sadly, Malco announced late last year that production was being discontinued and remaining stock was being sold off… But they’re still available at a number of retailers, including Amazon.
Stephen A. Morse invented the twist drill...
He is also the inventor of the "Morse Taper" seen on lathes today 100+ years later.
Twist drill have been around since the iron-age…
@@imadequate3376Wikipedia says (uncited) that it was Whitworth with improvements by Morse
Irwin owned a general store and a local drunk invented an auger of some kind and traded it Irwin for grocery bill and whiskey
In case anyone else was wondering, the mat knife is the SDI GZ-GB GLANZ Extreme Cutter. It's also available from the same manufacturer (SDI Corporation) as model SDI 3006C.
Thank you! Spent 15 minutes trying to get lucky before it occurred to me to check the comments. When will I learn!?
Thank you
I use forstner bits a lot in my shop, I highly recommend hex shank ones over round shank. Less slip and easier to quickly swap in/out.
For those who are curious, Stumpy Nubs has good info on forstner bits .
Second the recommendation of hex shank. If you can afford them FAMAG make the best forstner bits I've used to date. different side profile that doesnt heat up as much and they also have extension bars for deep drilling.
@@bfpierce I love Stumpy, but he has a lot of advertising agreements that influence his content
100% worth checking out still, it's just something people have to keep in mind
One of the greatest (and little-known) things about Quick-Grip clamps is... you can reverse them, and turn them from squeezers to stretchers. SO USEFUL sometimes, and I don't know of anything else that does this.
Awesome thanks for that tip!
Some models but not all have that feature. The model he showed does not.
@@Mark-jd1frI have *exactly* that same model, and it does. It just takes a little finagling.
and you can make a really long impromptu "pipe" clamp using 2 with a long board with holes in the ends.
With faces either regular or reversed depending on need.
@@Mark-jd1fr just knock out the ring at the end, and you can flip them around while holding the release. 🤟
I can attest to the Erwin vice grips. I worked in a underground coal mine for a few years. Every miner carried a pair and a adjustable wrench. Those tools where put through hell and back on a daily basis and very rarely would you'd ever see the vice grips fail.
For those wondering about improvements to his tattoo a while ago he mentioned that he should have had it start a exact distance from one of his finger tips so that he could have a longer ruler built in
Yeah. He felt like he could made it start 12 inches from the tip of his finger so he could measure 18" from his middle fingertip to the end of the ruler or 1' from fingertip to the ruler's start.
Really wish the temporary tattoo had numbers on it as well...!
I imagine there must be a strong confirmation bias among people who get tattoos. Committed to not regretting it.
As you get older and cartilage in the fingers starts to go.....would you still need the ruler
Yeah, I remember that too. Though it's more about the tattoo placement than the tattoo itself.
It's funny to hear you say a Forstner bit is a tool you have to be told about. I still remember when I was told about them. They weren't in my dad's tool collection and I was a teenager when a friend of mine (who is now an awesome woodworker) had moved away and he had found a woodworking mentor who introduced him to the Forstner bit. He was so excited to call me up and tell me about them and thne to show them to me the next time I visited.
My dad was a plumber and he called them water bits for sending water pipe through studs and etc. I was shocked when I heard someone call it a Forstner bit because it clearly a water bit 😂
My dad had them. His comment confused me.
I seem to recall you once mentioning that you were very mildly upset that the distance from the end of the ruler to the tip of your middle finger was not a nice even number, and you had thought of placement only after you got the tattoo done. So, those of you out there thinking about getting this sort of tat done, keep this in mind.
Good point. Although you don’t always go in with outstretched fingers, sometimes it really is the closed fist.
I rememebred that too, because someone asked what the distance was didn't they? There's still time to add a closed fist and an +8 1/4" or whatever and an open hand with a +12 3/16" or whatever they work out as. Though the real power move would be getting 'CUBIT' on the point of the elbow
i came here to say this. =)
Adam commented earlier, that the ruler was placed on his arm without reference to anything else. He said that if he had to do it over, he would place it exactly a certain distance from end of his middle finger, effectively lengthening the ruler.
He could "calibrate it" by cutting off the tip of his finger but that might be a little extreme even for Adam.
I used to live near DeWitt, Nebraska, where vice grips were originally manufactured. They had a store there where you could pick up factory seconds that had small cosmetic defects but worked fine. U.S. made vice grips are stamped with DeWitt, NE on the side of them.
If it doesn't say, "Petersen MFG, DeWitt NE" it is not a real Vice Grip.
The Vise-Grip (TM) was invented in the US by William S. Peterson in 1924. They were later invented again (independently) by Thomas Couchrie in the UK, whose patent was granted in 1955 and became known as Mole Grips because they were made by Mole and Sons.
I once got into an online debate about Irwin versus Mole... I did my research and found the same as you LOL 🤣 I knew them as both as Vise, and Mole grips but more usually as Mole simply because that's what my father called 'em 😉
Came here to say just that. I have a pair of Peterson's Manufacturing Inc. Vise Grips. They are amazingly good
So after thirty years, vise-grips still hadn't propagated to the UK? None of those Americans who came over during WWII brought a pair? The British patent office had never heard of such a thing?
The release mechanism on the Mole wrench (sic) works the other way round from the ViseGrip.
Beginner Tool Kit:
- Screwdrivers (flat in a couple sizes, phillips in #0, #1, #2, and #3, robertson in #1, #2, #3)
- Pliers (needle, side cutters, linemans, slip joint aka channellocks, wire cutter/strippers, combo, vise grip or two)
- Hammers (ball peen, framing/claw, rubber mallet)
- Combo wrenches (or an adjustable, or even better knipex pliers wrenches)
- Small socket set (1/4" and 3/8" drive in metric and standard)
- Prybar, Chisel
- Level, Square, Tape Measure, Marking tools
- Multimeter
- Files (a course/fine flat file at least)
- SAFETY EQUIPMENT - gloves, eyes, ears, and breathing protection at minimum
Then separately add in a drill and impact driver with the necessary bits.
Go watch my tool bag tour video, I put together a single bag of tools I can grab when I'm going somewhere and have all the basics.
Fat chance I'm spending any money on safety equipment, nerds
@@adambonesaw3689 lol it's a drop in the bucket and I only have one set of hands, one set of ears, one set of eyes, one set of lungs to use for life.
oh, I forgot to add, sets of hex and torx keys
Excellent list. I was disappointed by what Adam pulled out; this is much better.
@@joshcarter-com thanks! it's a starting point at least, I could probably add a dozen more things to it, but the basic hand tools are covered at least.
The deep personal knowledge that’s necessary to view exposure to deep institutional knowledge as sympathetic magic is profound to me. It’s the pure embodiment of Arthur C. Clarke’s third law, "Any sufficiently advanced technology is indistinguishable from magic." The way you tossed that phrase into your description of your experience, Adam, is enlightening.
An ACCURATE Square is a must for anyone- beginner or not.
Fiskers & Olfa Cutters/Knives.
Machinist 1 2 3 Set up Blocks.
Machinist Squares.
4 1/2" metal Trim Square.
Dremel Tool.
Tungsten Scribers.
Headband LED lights & Magnifiers.
Metal T Square with Pencil Scribe Holes.
Welding Magnetic Angle Squares.
Adjustable Slding combo Steel Squares (small & Large).
Engraver
Heat Gun
Calipers
Solder Kit
Jewelers File & Machinist file sets
Hemostats various lengths and jaw types
Hand Sanding Blocks
Side cutters of various types (Spring Open and Lock Close)
Needle Nose Pliers of various types (Spring Open and Lock Close)
Miniature Needle Nose Vise Grips
and of course Mallets of different types.
Every modeler needs a set of stainlesss steel rulers. Some should have a no slip grippy side to act as a hobby knife cutting guide. A vernier caliper is also handy for ultra precise depth and thickness reading. You can get better, faster results with a dial vernier caliper.
It’s not the mountain top. It’s the climb.
Adam, your passion is in the learning of “It”, not in the achievement or the mastery of “It”. That is what makes you a…. Master.
(but, you already knew that)
As an alternative for X-Acto knifes I recommend getting yourself medical scalpel holders (their sizes are numbered e.g. size 2) and a pack of 100 sterilized blades for below 20 bucks (blade shapes are numbered as well, straight ones would be Nr. 11). The medical holders have a snap in mechanism that uses the hole in the back of the blade and the springiness of the blade itself to fix it. This is in my experience more reliable than any turn-to-fix holder I ever had.
My goto knife, and I've used and acquired many... From solid single piece surgical scalpels 50 years ago, model making as a child, to hand made Damascus Steel Japanese Marking knives... My Luthier's knife, that I made myself as a Luthiery student nearly 40 years ago, a traditional straight rake angle, cutting edge, but a flatter, tapered, very non traditional handle (traditionally a straight oval section) that just fits my hand perfectly 😂 even flares, and chamfers to the end where my ring and little fingers naturally curl.
Interesting that we both mention handles, I once used a borrowed planishing hammer that had finger grooves worn into it... That little bit of hardwood, and polished steel was probably a hundred years old, and billions of hours of work old! (and yes it was comfortable... That's why it'd survived, my ancient hand worn crafts tools, and hammer handle preservation society is still in it's inception 🤣)
PS I have an Arkansas stone that I went to turn in it's box... the other side was worn down by a hundred years of sharpening a curved blade, I imagine by a leatherworker: harness making, cobbling. How long does it take to wear a piece of natural quartz more than halfway through?!!!!!
I am by no means a I master at anything but as a welder I’ve found instead of carrying several screwdrivers I use a bit driver from Klein (14-1) but there are many good manufacturers but still it has an organization system in the handle for bits and adjusts from a short shank to long shank and has served me well in the last year of using it just a suggestion.
I TOTALLY concur on the Forstner bits. I have precious few tools, but I bought that set of Irwin Forstner bits early on for a specific project, and boy am I glad I did.
Totally agree on the clamps, you can never have enough!
Having some sort of bench vise is really helpful. Mine is just a cheapo 3" jaw Irwin stuck to my computer desk but I use it almost every day (even if sometimes that use is holding incense sticks).
+1 on the incense burner function
Also holding tools I’m too lazy to put back immediately
I was thinking of a basic bench vise too. It's one of those tools that can be used for soooo many things and nothing else really does the same job. Plus even a cheapo 3" one will probably last the rest of your life.
I went years without having the quick release bar clamps and now use them for practically every project. I have no idea why it took me so long, maybe because I didn't know how much use they would get. For small items a set of 6" and 4 1/2" clamps work well. They are surprisingly good at holding odd shaped or round objects. For painting, an airbrush and quiet compressor is a giant leap forward. Finally, a set of long hex bits and ratchet screwdriver is life changing compared to using Allen keys.
It depends on what you are working on. I can't live without a digital caliper for sure.
Swap Meets are great for cheap quality tools for beginners. Have a feel of them, you'll be able to tell if it's quality, and if they lasted this long, they'll last twice as longer. My favourite pliers are still ones I inherited from my Dad he bought at a swap meet.
Highly recommend Irwin. My whole toolbox is blue and yellow at this point. The Irwin combination square is great, the chisels a really nice, and their pliers are obviously fantastic. (Maybe stay away from their tape measure)
Schollhorn/Bernard/Sargent parallel-jaw pliers with side cutter! (They were part of the WWII machine gun tool kit, as well as a fisherman's friend.) 4.5" to 8.5" depending on your need.
I had the same experience with forstener bits. I did not know of them. I had some work on some furniture at home and I had no idea how to cut a hole in a decent way. My father had a set of these and told me to use them. I'll invest some time in a set as I also have a hobby lathe and it would be really useful to make holes in round objects :D
Tweezers, clothespins, qtips, tweezers, resin mixing cups (tiny plastic shot glass glasses for paint), gloves, alligator modeling clamps on a stick, plastic bowls to separate pieces by paint color you’ll be doing, razors/exacto knife and a cutting mat.
That would be my shopping list at first
I feel like a good pair of compound action cutters, like aviation snips or heave duty shears is another must have. Cuts anything up to steel. Big time saver.
I got a set of forstner bits after seeing them used on this channel. Had never come across them before. Proved to be really useful for all the new doors I fitted.
I’ve used several types of forstner bits at work. I can highly recommend the twist drills and especially the hex shank forstner bits from FAMAG (Germany), they are expensive but they are the Ferrari of Forster bits. They cut through material like butter.
Agree with you here on Irwin, accessible in many shops, good warranty, well made, easily identfiable with the blue and yellow. Thye purchased lots of old english tool companies, notably Record, so still have access to their knowledge and skills. Overlooked by many on youtube. For screwdrivers and allen keys etc, its hard to beat Wiha, as they still stamp their tools for the ISO standard they meet, many dont.
I bought both the large and small (depicted) versions of that Japanese box cutter based on one of your previous videos (2 years ago maybe?) and I absolutely LOVE both of them. Having used them for 2 years, I'm pretty sure the supply of blades I bought will last the rest of my lifetime - those blades do not go dull all that easily.
Someone may have already said this but I think that the two styles of Forstner bits mentioned are for different applications. The smooth edge ones are for side grain because they cut the fibers like a knife, reducing tear out. The serrated ones are for end grain because the teeth act like little chisels, scooping out material more efficiently.
I have learned so much from Adam about little tool tips which make my life so much easier.
But I don’t think I have touched my other types of hole bits since he showed me the wonders of Forsner bits.
I'm a professional woodworker and those Irwin quick clamps are still my go-to clamp (the ones with the 2 tonne clamping pressure though, not the ones you showed) for just about everything except panel glue ups.
Thank you Adam for the inspiration. In many ways, you are the muse that at one time made me into making things.
And I'm sure I'm not the only one. You are to a certain extent responsible for generations of makers.
This channel got me into costume making!
Hi Adam, do you check the 'calibration' of your forearm ruler every so often and if so has it changed at all as your skin ages and changes? Or has it stayed fairly accurate?
He’s talked about that before, it’s not really a concern for him because it more of a reference tool and he doesn’t use it for actual measurements
I'll put in a plug for Olfa craft knives as an alternative to Fiskars and Exacto. Excellent quality and a variety of blades.
Mr. AdaM Savagé. I'm rebuilding my 3x6m garage/workshop/"secret" makers space(my wife thinks I'm doing "house improvement" things there...😅... but it's about 30% of what I'm doing). BT earphones and youre AST in the background is making my day and work fly past. Thanks for two decades of inspiration and therapy...😊
Yes!! Someone had to tell me about forstner bits! I had to inset some large diameter discs into some wooden posts and the forstner bit came to the rescue after someone recommended it to me! Saved masses of work!
For forstner bits, Fisch is my favorite brand. They're pricey, but they cut cleaner and faster than other brands I've used. They have a "wave" pattern rather than sawtooth serrations.
But I think the big thing is that they come well sharpened. My other bits needed a lot of sharpening before they would cut well.
My must have for making
Long Nose Players, good right angle, a set of drills/forstner bits, hammer, Good Side Cutters, Good Caliper and Ruler, Good Method of cutting for what you want to do.
Great tips - I just discovered that both Irwin quick-grips AND forstner bits last year! wish it'd been 30 years earlier
Irwin did not invent Vise Grips but they bought the original design rather than rip it off. I also like their bar clamps, including the minis, and the big honkers. The originals with the yellow pads are, in my opinion a little nicer than the new ones. I'll add two of my own, the Kant-twist clamps, I saw you using them and had to buy some of my own, even though I mainly do wood work. One more? Manfrotto/Bogen/Matthews Super Clamps. Great for grip work, I've also borrowed them from my grip kit when I run out of C-clamps.
I also have the Fiskars knife and I love it. But I also use the Olfa SAC-1 9mm blade snapper with 30 degree blades and they are really great.
Clamps. Don't forget the all important pipe clamps! What's the difference between a 3' clamp and a 8 ft clamp? A bit of pipe. Get a few cheap sets of pipe clamps, some 1/2" or 3/4" emt conduit in place of expensive black iron. You can use those pipe claps for ANYTHING. Need a soft touch on a part? Soak some squares of particle board until it gets spongey, drill a pipe size hole in the middle and wait for them to dry. If there's a veneer, you'll need to remove it. (easier to remove after soaking) Install the now spongey particle boards inside the clamps on the pipe. My grandfather used this method for his main vice, when working on delicate instrument parts or soft materials. There are soft woods and synthetics that do the job as well, but particle board scraps are usually abundant and cheap.
What (quality) tools to pick to begin creating a toolkit... that's a tough one, but now that I think about it: I'd start with patience, ingenuity and not just learning how to use (and not abuse) your tools, but also understanding WHY and HOW a tool works for you. I think your mind is the greatest tool at your disposal, and a great mind can bring the most intricate designs to live, even with a very limited set of tools.
Channellocks, pocket knife, crescent wrench, pocket flathead screw driver, big long flathead screw driver, hammer, breaker bar, a cheap 1/4 ratchet set, and needle nose pliers. Those have basicly carried me threw everything from small hobby crafts threw servicing diesel trucks until i could afford better. its amazing what simple hand tools and a bit of creativity can do.
That puppet build video was instrumental for me to start building an Owl puppet for a DnD campaign I'm in. I reverse engineered and taught myself a lot of stuff about puppet building by using that video as a reference and branching off from there.
Still working on it since I ran into some problems with making an owl beak operate properly but it's coming along nicely and it's been fun figuring out the process. When this one is finally finished I could probably make the next puppet much quicker with all the experience I have haha.
6” f style clamps are my go to for random clamping. HF has good ones for cheap
YES, quality topic and video but I love these sit down QnAs!!!!
funny about a month before this I needed to buy two 12 inch speed clamps for an XPS foam project my first ones and it eliminated any stress of my glued pieces having air gaps between or being uneven.
I love my irwin speed clamps i have about 10 of each size especially the snall ones i have 20 of those for making and building my balsa rc scale airplanes so much fun to build and fly i been building rc olanes since i was 10 and im now 32. And i think every hobby maker or builder and even professionals have tons and tons of exacto knofe handles. Its like its a collection that jsut appears very quickly. And scalpels are my fav go to for working with balsa and trimming and cutting balsa wood gives me a nice clean razor straight edge on the balsa cut side
The Irwin quick clamps are great - you can also swap ends and turn them into spreaders, which come in handy occasionally.
Yes I use them as jacks for my mattress when changing bedding. Lol I had a heart attack and since then have little to no stamina. Finding ways to get around these issues to continue being able to do things made my shop tools that much more useful!
I think that Fisch wave edge forstner bits are the best if you’re making fine furniture. They make the finest holes with the least amount of tearout at the edges and smoothest interior surface. They also make great brad point bits.
Forstner bits are also good for doing quick and dirty mortises. You can then either square up the hole using a chisel, or round the tenons.
I learned how to do mortise with forstner bits, a drill and a chisel lol. I have used the cheap ones from Amazon I bought years ago, they work just fine
This is awesome ! Thanks Adam !!
After you buy a cheapie set to get you going I recommend spending the money on Timberline (amana) carbide forstner bits, not only do they stay sharp longer but you get a cleaner cut, they have deepngullets that remove chips faster IMO, and you will get ALOT more sharpenings out of them especially if you send them out and the carbide can also be repaired!
Beginner tools i’d recommend. Buy the absolute cheapest you can find (Aldi, Lidl, Action, second hand) and upgrade as you go:
knipex adjustable pliers wrench 125mm (absolutely worth it)
Hammer
Knife with replaceable blades
Handsaw
Hacksaw
File
Wooden block plane
Chisel or chisel knife
Electric drill
Drill bits for steel
Bitset with NON ratcheting bitholder
Flathead screwdriver with striking cap
Wire cutters
Basic socket set
Sharpening stone
Tapemeasure
Knipex pliers are a good balance of quality/cost. They are fairly expensive, but less than the tool truck and very well made.
Knipex for larger pliers for sure and the pliers wrench etc but I have started using Fujiya for smaller pliers and cutters, excellent Japanese made.
@@benchapman5247 I have some Engineer and Tsunoda pliers from Japan and they are excellent. I’ll check out the Fujiya line. Thanks!
The fact that I have the same Fiskars xacto knife make me feel good. Only complaint is it tends to loosen up quickly, I wish someone would machine one with a locking mechanism.
Don't forget a good set of quality files is extremely valuable!
I will second the quick clamps. Being able to operate a clamp one-handed can’t be undersold. Especially starting out when you’re working solo. So many times, I have lined up a joint (woodworking) only to realize I needed to clamp it but now I can’t let it go. Quick clamps are clutch.
yup, Petersen Manufacturing company, INC. DeWitt, Ne. (formed in 1934) the original maker and patent holder (Bill Petersen, 1924) of the Vise-Grip morphed into the American Tool Companies in 1984, they bought Irwin in 1993, and didn't consolidate under the Irwin brand until 2003, after being bought by Newell Brands.
Easily one of the best channels on YT.
Also Garltrol Miter Shears. Absolutely love em!
I've been experimenting with a similar tattoo design, using a temporary one applied using a stencil cut out on my vinyl cutter and a set of those henna-style skin-safe markers. The inch portion has the first inch laid out as eifht sixteenth-inch-wide boxes, the second as four eighth-inch boxes, and so on, and the boxes in each half-inch are colored in contrasts. (The centimeters are just halves.) So it winds up a four-color design: red and brown for the contrasting fills, black for outlines, and uncolored flesh.
I'm not sure i use it enough to get it applied permanently, and there are some refinements I want to make, but it's been entertaining.
Have you experimented with using a Vernier scale to up the accuracy
You should sell plans for some of your more popular builds. I think they would sell well. You could sell printed plans - or digital documents for the buyer to print out themselves.
"I wanted to walk down the path of that institutional knowledge. That's the kind of sympathetic magic I like to engage in when I'm replicating something like that."
I've felt the same way about some programming projects I've seen, though I've never been able to articulate it as well as you did. I'll be borrowing this!
I loved to see him running around going "oh you got to see this" and "oh, wait, it's actually over here"!
Recently had this discussion with a friend/maker. Would you rather start with a set or screw drivers or a single handle with different bits?
god I love that someone tried to rope him into nonsense macho EDC pocket knife culture and he just responded with two X-actos and a matte knife
When it comes to Forstner bits, there are two main areas you will notice a significant difference in quality:
1) Size - as the cutting diameter gets to be above 1.5” the quality of inexpensive Forster bits goes down exponentially! Especially anything really large (bigger than 2.5”)
2) Durability - if you are making repeated cuts, especially with harder materials (ex: hardwoods like oak or maple) the more frequently you use them the faster the cutting edges will dull. The speed at which you use them also affects how fast they heat up (bigger bits spinning fast will get HOT) and the temperature can dramatically affect the tool’s ability to stay sharp.
For larger bits I would recommend either Freud or Lee Valley brands.
Amana Router/CNC bits. Expensive as hell but GOAT Woodworking bits.
This is worth watching just for the running around the shop.
Quality tools everyone needs depends highly on what you're making. As a beginner get 1 or 2 full tool boxes from garage sales. Then find what tool you use the most and upgrade it.
I personally think a good bit driver set is better then dedicated screw drivers. Far more versatile and can be expanded over time.
While I like the Irwin quick clamps, I am also really happy with Bremen from Harbor Freight.
Forstner bits are really darn handy. The best I've tried is from Freud.
The Chapman Master bit set is my current favourite bit set for sure. Not cheap but very high quality, proper hollow ground bits. (not related to me in any way BTW).
I actually found out about forsner bits by myselfe as i was looking for drills for larger holes and i just bought a set
4:47 it’s funny I think I watched the stream of this and I thought the same thing at this point. I was like sweet! Adam is a knife guy, only to be a little disappointed when he pulled out the Xacto.
Fluke multimeter, Moore and Wright micrometer, Screwdrivers by CK, Ring spanners/wrenches by King Dick, Adjustable wrenches by Bahco (they invented them), pliers/wrenches by Knipex. Planes by Record/Irvine, Vices by Record/Irvine. Battery drills etc Makita, small powered tools. Proxxon.
I'm still surprised that Adam hasn't tried (well, I've never heard him mention it at least) surgical handles and blades instead of Xacto ones. What I like about the surgical kind is that they come in all sorts of weird shapes and sizes (including the classic #10), and the biggest reason, they.do.not.move. Once they're clicked into the handle, they stay there. With those round twisty handles I find that they constantly get pulled out or move side to side when cutting through thicker "grabby" stuff like rubber.
I use both the more classic flat handles but also round no-name ones that I've cut down to make shorter.
I guess one downside is that blade replacement isn't easily done with just your fingers. It can be done, but I wouldn't recommend it (too easy to slip and ruin your day). They sell cheap little disposable boxes that help you pull the blade off the handle and retain the used blades in the box. Or you can just use a pair of pliers.
First time with forstner bits was high school wood sho: oak pendulum clocks. We couldn’t get longer shaft clock motors for some reason, so we had to halve the thickness of the clock faces after they were mostly done. So first we tried to cheat it with the biggest bit we had (I think it was 3 inches) in the drill press. And it almost immediately began overheating and burning the wood more than cutting into it. The teacher and his boss, rather than going, “no we need to use a smaller bit” went, “grab a jar and fill it with water from the sink” They’d go until the bit started overheating, then dip it in the water to cool it down. (No we did not have cutting oil). A day, and several near fires later, “there’s the 1/2 inch bit, just use this and make a bunch of holes up and down and across until the motor fits.
Mind you this was also the wood shop where I knew more about the jig saw than the teacher, and the band saw blade looked like it came in on the Titanic, and finally snapped when I was using it “Okay, we’ll replace the blade tomorrow, just go do something else on your project.” (Aka, they didn’t have a new blade at all.) They also didn’t teach how to move long planks with other people around when we were building poplar tables, we all learned to duck or arm block very fast. This ineptness made me opt for a tapered leg table over a turned leg, the wood lathe was a horror show and I didn’t want anything to do with it.
Exacto blades, japanese saw, hack saw, ca glue, clamps, steel cutting edge ruler, Work matt, screw drivers, adjustable wrench, pliers/multitool
I tend to buy tools when I find a good price (employee discount working at Sears long ago, back when they owned Craftsman filled out a lot of the basics for me), or when I need them. I've picked up a number of tools over the years that I was excited to give to other people because it had become clear I'd never use it and it both meant I got to give something to someone and I didn't waste that money, both of which are always good feelings.
First I want to say thank you for making my childhood and science in general awesome and fun.
Second I want to ask, what is a maker and what should you be able to do to consider yourself an accomplished maker?
Just get everything! You will use some stuff all the time, some of the stuff some of the time, and a couple of things once... but it's always worth picking up anything you see that could be handy. Tools are like gold, IMO, get as much as you can! 😀
Buying a tool you don't need, and years later finding a perfect use for it, is a most satisfying experience. Even better if a neighbor has a problem, and your tool solves it.
I know I’m a little late to this discussion, but have (2) 12’ tape measures. For most projects, 12’ is more than enough. They’re lighter and work just as well as a 30’; And you can get 2 for the price of 1 so when you misplace the one you used to measure the piece you just cut, you can get the other and keep working.
Fisch Black Shark Forstner bits are worth the premium. They are amazing. I spent way too much money on the lesser bits, and the Fisch bits can be sharpened.
The thing to remember about tools is that they do wear out and sometimes break, and the often get misplaced. NEVER loan your good tools to others. Some cheap tools are handy. I have a few cheap combination wrenches that I needed to heat and bend for a specific task which i wouldn't do to snap-on wrenches.
The Irwen clamps are also really useful for spreading things apart. Just need to reverse the jaws.
When I was a kid I took a boat out and had to use a pair of vice grips and a pair of groved joint pliers to grind down a stainless bolt into a shear pin . Never could have done it with out my trusty vice grips , maybe the most useful tool on earth 🍺
I feel the Jorgensen clamps model #93360 are some of the best options for clamps. You can connect the ends together and get twice the length with the plastic style and you get a four piece set for 40 bucks and get a varying set of sizes and clamping configurations. I also think Olfa knives are top notch but the Stanley 4 1/2 pocket knife is a great option as well, model 10-049. Two of my other favorite things are the Irwin folding chisel model IWHT16701 and the Purdy 10 in 1 folding multi tool model 140900600. I have been interested in portable multi tools easy to transport that collapse down and fit easily in a tool bag but also give the functionality of a full size tool. My question for you Adam would be what would you use for a portable set up that required you to travel with tools?
I think people put a lot of weight on “best” tools. There are high quality expensive tools that are worth the money to the right buyer. Example being the tool truck brands for professional mechanics, automotive repair on rusty seized fasteners tend to break tools. For a maker or home use any brand name ratchet set is going to be adequate. I like buying tools when I find sales, I have tons of different stuff but a core craftsman mechanic set, screw driver set, and plier set solves most of my problems.