CAMBRIDGE AUDIO CD5 DRAWER STUCK!
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- čas přidán 24. 09. 2021
- I managed to pick up a Cambridge Audio CD5 CD player for just £5! This was due to the drawer sticking. The girl I bought it off mentioned that she'd been told it couldn't be repaired. Sounds like a challenge to me!
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Just before Xmas I repaired our old Sony CD player drawer with guess what? A rubberband that the supermarket puts around bunches of spring onions. The old drive belt was maybe thinner than the one shown as the replacement here and had stretched so much that it wasn't moved by the pulley at all. CZcams advice was to place the band in boiling water for 3 minutes to shrink it back but it didn't wirk for me. After a quick scan around the kitchen for something similar I found the spring onions. Fortunately the access to the drive pulleys was much easier than in the Cambridge player and the rubberband seems to have a better traction than the polmer original drivebelt. I have a box of rubberbands on hand even if my repair fails in the next year. I was surprised that the drawer drive mechanism was as simple as just a belt drive I had envisaged some sort of cog and rack solid kit. Just goes to show that it is worth having a quick look at the innards before throwing things out.
Hi. Much easier if you take the tray out. With the deck facing you, on the right side of the tray at the back is a removeable stop. A lug needs to be gently pressed and a "T" shaped stop levered up with a flat blade screwdriver. Be gentle as the stop can spring out and be a bugger to find. It is essential! You can now slide the tray forward. It will only go so far. Look just behind the fascia on both the left and right hand sides on the tray platform. there is a small circle of plastic on a curved plastic arm on each side. Insert a small rod/cocktail stick into the small circle and lever sideways whilst pressing the tray from the back. As you've only got 2 hands do each side separately, with each push the tray will move slightly to pass the stops on each side until it will then push out cleanly. The cover plate that you snapped off can now be pressed towards you and lifted sufficiently to get access to the pulleys. Once the belt is changed the cover plate has to be pushed back so it latches as it tensions the larger pulley providing a top bushing. Maybe this is why your draw is moving more slowly as without this bushing the larger pully is only located at the bottom. Slide the tray back in and re-fit the "T"-shaped stop, then refit other parts as before.
I also loosened the 4 bolts holding the tray mech in which let’s you access the cover plate plastic holding tab below. Push it in with a flat blade and it pops out. Then it’s very easy to change the belt.
No need to remove the T shaped section fromv the rear right of the drawer, gently pry the restricts from each side at the front of the tray rail with the visible circular lugs, this alone allows the tray to move forward enough to expose the pulleys and belt, allowing you to remove the pulley cover without breaking it, in total, less than a 5 minute job 👍
I used your video to solve an identical issue with a DENON DCD-755AR. Nearly similar tray/laser unit. I did take the front off and there it was: the little plastic thing (4'10") that partly covers the spindle and the cog wheel, both connect by the O-ring. That plastic cover let itself be removed quite easily, so I had free access to the O-ring. Which was the culprit of the tray not opening. Cleaned everything, re-mounted everything and: done!
Thanks to your video I dared to do it that way, so very much obliged!
This is much, much easier if you take the tray out. Open the tray until it stops. There is a small plastic lug in the rear right corner of the tray that you have to unclip and lift out. Once removed, there are 2 claws, 1 either side of the tray that you push outward and slide the tray out. You can then unclip the plastic belt cover with the single clip at the back and slide it to the left to get access to the belt. The belt should be replaced with the correct size of square drive belt, not an o ring as you can put too much strain on the tray motor and damage it, or strip the plastic gears that the pulley drives.
Great job will attempt to fix 640 c player soon.Thanks
You're very patient, good job, I've got exact same issue with my Cambridge audio azur 640H, not very impressed that they seemingly go wrong so easily. I'll open it up see if I can see anything that looks remotely like it can be fixed, thanks for posting.
You can use loom bands
I just watched this and opened up my CD and cleaned the belt and posts with some alcohol and bingo it works - I got a
£4 belt coming that I don't need but hey I got a spare! Your CD5 and my CD500 are great players well made with good components and are worth saving.
Can you help me - on first operation the draw stops after a cm but when closed and opened again it works every time. It just sticks on the first operation!! Sometimes it doesn't do it at all. Do I need to go in again and clean the drive wheels that run the belt again or will usage clear this up?
Thanks it looks just what I need to mend a friends dec. What size belt do you need?
Same mechanism and same problem on my Teac p6000. I just can't but the belt back in place...
I have the same problem with the drawer not opening. Followed your video but the problem is not the belt, it is the magnetic part that sits on top. The drawer works fine when that is taken off - not sure what I can do. Any advice gratefully received.
Same as keep it.😜
I think I'm going to try this with my Cambridge Audio CD5. It's a great little player (when it works!) Where is the cheapest place to get o rings?
Thanks for this video.
I think I bought mine from eBay?
They are on line for £4, I got a CD500 and the drawer is sticky so doing this job on arrival of new belt. Was quoted £75 to do the job by local company!!
Where are the electronics?
Very primitive cd player mechanics .. :D
My draw gets stuck halfway and it won't budge. It's the same cambridge audio cd player
Likely to be the same issue. The belt may not be strong enough to drop down the laser housing.
@@UTILITARIANTVUK thanks, I’ll try and find a belt
@@musleman8 Even if it's not the issue you've only lost a couple of quid. I used an O ring of 20mm inside diameter (ID) and 24mm outside diameter (OD), 2mm width. It's smaller than the original but the larger sizes didn't work.