I'm pulling apart a 5.7 vortec in one of our old workhorses that lost oil pressure. I realized several of the cam bearings had moved out of factory position. This video was a life saver, thank you very much.
Thank you for going slow and repeating I'm older and it takes a few minutes for things to soak in, feel a lot more assured in trying this now . I hope you do a video showing the process of installing them thanks again
That was an outstanding explanation of how to locate your cam bearings. first one i have seen that really made sense of why and where the oil holes should be located.
Thanks I'm glad you wasn't talking about the weather and 30 minutes of crap that didn't have anything to do with cam bearings I think I can handle it now you explained it well and to the point
Excellent Video! I'm installing my cam bearings right now and there are countless conflicting instructions when researching where to index the oil holes. This video is clear and concise, thank you so much for taking the time to upload, I sure appreciate it. Subscribed!
Finally, a good explanation. I drew a circle using a cam bearing and then put the clock positions on it and then transferred that to the bearings so I could see as I was driving them in. Thanks.
Great video. I am going to mark 9:12 because dragslick summarizes the bearing positions. You can hear all the why fors and what ifs in the rest of the video and yes watch that. If you want to know how they go in and just a quick summary, there you have it. Great video, both for content and being to the point, thanks.
When I was in technical school many years ago we were taught to NEVER touch a bearing surface with our bare hands! The acid on your skin causes premature erosion on the bearing surface!
I gotta say - in my 40 years of playing with cars and swapping engines, that almost sounds ludicrous. My buds and I have taking apart chevys small blocks - swapped - interchanged parts - as well as restarted parked cars. And we still got the engines to run. naturally if an engine is blow, then it's blown. I'm not saying that tech school might not have a point - but 100 years from now? 200 years from now with the erosion? In other words -go ahead and build an engine
About to replace my cam bearings on a 1pc seal 880 block. It's a 2200.00 dollar block that was new and CNCd for up to a 3.80 stroke. The cam bearings are clocked all over the place. Your absolutely correct about the oil wedge and valve train pressure. My #1 front bearing has one hole at 6 o'clock lined up with the main bearing oil feed hole and the second hole is at 2 o'clock. The whole bottom ⅓ of it anyways has excessive wear. #2 @ 4:30, #3 @ 2:30, #4 @ 6 o'clock and not sure about #5 at the moment but suspect it could also be at 6 o'clock. Anyways I've installed them in the past based off your video and will be again next weekend. Thanks. Also the engine I'm discussing has around 15k miles on it. All roller from cam to rockers
wish i would of seen this video a 3 days ago. ruined 2 sets of bearing from not having them in the correct location so on to my 3rd set now . you have the only video that i could find that mentions where the bearing positions are on the block. very frustrated to say the least. ive always had the machine shop install them but figured i would do it myself since i bought an installer. very good video
I never understood why it matters where the oil holes went because of the oil Gally that goes all the way around the bearing but the oil wedge you explained I understand and why if there not positioned correctly the oil pressure is efected
This is the right way not lining the oil hole to the main bearing oil hole where the cam is pushing down against it. This way it creates an oil wedge causing the cam rotation to carry the oil to the high pressure spot at the bottom.It works the same as con rod bearing oiling
I'm doing this on a 5.7 vortec, the only difference I see is that the vortec motor cam bearing bores have the complete inner circular groove for the oil supply, instead of just the one hole in the 8 o clock install position. Basically they all look like the #1 bearing.
Interesting, I just pulled a 355 apart with oil pressure problems and found bearing #1 at 12 and 4 o'clock, #2 through 4 @ 12 o'clock and # 5 @ 6 o'Clock....I think I found the problem. Thanks for the informative video, oh and where did you get that diagram on 12, 8 and 4 o'clock positions
Great tips thank you for the information question if the block doesn't go to a machine shop. But wanting to clean the oil galleries what's the proper tool to use for the. Cleansing process to do it with thank you.
I just bought a 283 and that's exactly what I suspected... Two rods on a fresh rebuild were oil starved bc of metal shavings. I literally said man how would shavings be in the oil system like that. They looked almost as if it were a drill shaving but I'm thinking the oil pressure was pushing and pushing the crank was rotating and curled them up. Thank again. New subscriber. Share more. Haha. Very soon too!!! Any tricks .. especially on a 283? Curious 😁
Great job on showing position of bearings. However, im disappointed that you didn't show how you actually installed or "knocked" in the bearings. Do, did you just take a hammer and beat them in or did you use some kind of tool and how did you know when to stop knocking?
Great video with awesome explanation. I am rebuilding a 2004 4.3 Vortex 6 cy are the location for the cam the same. I just got my engine back from the shop all my bearing hole are line up with the bock oil hole. service manual tell me 3 or 9 o clock on the upright position . then I also had to tear down my daughters car that has the same engine different year 1996 the original bearings where not at the service recommendation. Now I'm lost what is the best postion for this 4.3 Thanks Frank
Yeah, and I tried to see what CAD program he was using, but couldn't make it out. I have TurboCAD Deluxe 21. I would have used black lines with white background, but the idea he has of making the drawing for the purpose of establishing the 12 o'clock mark is a good one.
You say you have a 400 cu in block. Every 400 block I have ever worked on has three freeze plug holes on each side . Your block has two. That being said your install procedure provides great information.
You can see the steam holes on my other video about checking your block when it comes back from the machine shop. i used the same block in both videos.
This video helped a lot I've been trying to help my dad with his small-block and now I know why I stick with my 4-cylinder HONDAS......Hate to say it but Chevy and Ford V8s (n prob more) Are not very well built AT ALL.......
Running 23 dealerships with the family business. Everyone who claims Honda's are built better just because; are full of crap! I have seen horrible lemons, and very expensive fixes in Honda's and Toyota's come in. Same with Chevy's, Ford's, Ram's, etc but none more than the other. Matter of fact, Honda's counter weight belt system is so typical in our three Honda service departments that it's an eye roll when another one comes in..... although a nice money maker for us.
when installing the bearings, which side do you install first, the farthest side from either of the ends? ? and do they all go in from the inside of the block outward? im thinking u would do the farthest away first, so you dont score any in the middle by the installer tool rubbing against the bearings? thanks
Hi Thanks for your video. Excellent. I am doing the same on a 2001 pontiac sunfire 2.2 engine, I need to confirm, if this engine uses the same installation logic. Thank you.
So when the bearing is in correctly if i put the same size wire through the hole that would verify? or does the cam bearing hole match up to the groove in the block?
@@DRAGSLICK Having oil pressure issue. All plugs in block even hidden plug. bearing 2.5 to 3 thou. clock cam bearings/ Hei msd /stock pan with Melling hv pump.1/2`` off pan/20/50 oil wix filter only 30 psi when cold and 10 when hot. Does not increase much when at 2500prm. verified test gauges as well. Bad pump? Fresh rebuild 355. also new bypass for oil filter.
yeah good vid, would u say the cam bearings hav 2 b installed with the engine & crank removed or is it posible to install them with the block upright in the car with only the cam removed or maybe this is impossible?
I bet if there's room for the cam bearing installation tool, you could probably pull it off. Just make sure that the holes are aligned over the oil wells correctly, then you should be good to go
It's further back compared to 1-4, a good way to check is to see if the hole is lined up with the oil well by poking thru the hole to feel if you go into the well
I made the diagram at work on my computer. Here is a link to the durabond bearing website that shows what they recommend. www.dura-bondbearing.com/Portals/3/pdf/Cam%20bearing%20oil%20holeTechnical%20Bulletin.pdf
I'm pulling apart a 5.7 vortec in one of our old workhorses that lost oil pressure. I realized several of the cam bearings had moved out of factory position. This video was a life saver, thank you very much.
Thank you for going slow and repeating I'm older and it takes a few minutes for things to soak in, feel a lot more assured in trying this now . I hope you do a video showing the process of installing them thanks again
That was an outstanding explanation of how to locate your cam bearings. first one i have seen that really made sense of why and where the oil holes should be located.
Thanks I'm glad you wasn't talking about the weather and 30 minutes of crap that didn't have anything to do with cam bearings I think I can handle it now you explained it well and to the point
Excellent Video! I'm installing my cam bearings right now and there are countless conflicting instructions when researching where to index the oil holes. This video is clear and concise, thank you so much for taking the time to upload, I sure appreciate it. Subscribed!
Thank you!!! I had no idea how to line up the oil holes!
Finally, a good explanation. I drew a circle using a cam bearing and then put the clock positions on it and then transferred that to the bearings so I could see as I was driving them in. Thanks.
good ideer
Great video. I am going to mark 9:12 because dragslick summarizes the bearing positions. You can hear all the why fors and what ifs in the rest of the video and yes watch that. If you want to know how they go in and just a quick summary, there you have it. Great video, both for content and being to the point, thanks.
Thank you a lot. Man how many ppl are actually doing this wrong is crazy
I was sorta hopeing to see them installed.
When I was in technical school many years ago we were taught to NEVER touch a bearing surface with our bare hands! The acid on your skin causes premature erosion on the bearing surface!
I gotta say - in my 40 years of playing with cars and swapping engines, that
almost sounds ludicrous. My buds and I have taking apart chevys small blocks - swapped - interchanged parts - as well
as restarted parked cars. And we still got the engines to run. naturally if an engine is blow, then it's blown.
I'm not saying that tech school might not have a point - but 100 years from now? 200 years from now with the erosion?
In other words -go ahead and build an engine
What a load of utter BS.
Ya maybe if its sits dry for a year. Thats what lubrication is for!🙄
About to replace my cam bearings on a 1pc seal 880 block. It's a 2200.00 dollar block that was new and CNCd for up to a 3.80 stroke. The cam bearings are clocked all over the place. Your absolutely correct about the oil wedge and valve train pressure. My #1 front bearing has one hole at 6 o'clock lined up with the main bearing oil feed hole and the second hole is at 2 o'clock. The whole bottom ⅓ of it anyways has excessive wear. #2 @ 4:30, #3 @ 2:30, #4 @ 6 o'clock and not sure about #5 at the moment but suspect it could also be at 6 o'clock. Anyways I've installed them in the past based off your video and will be again next weekend. Thanks. Also the engine I'm discussing has around 15k miles on it. All roller from cam to rockers
Who knew not me you've earned yourself a subscriber. Excellent tutorial.
wish i would of seen this video a 3 days ago. ruined 2 sets of bearing from not having them in the correct location so on to my 3rd set now . you have the only video that i could find that mentions where the bearing positions are on the block. very frustrated to say the least. ive always had the machine shop install them but figured i would do it myself since i bought an installer. very good video
also hoping i didnt damage the block by installing the number one bearing in position 5. if someone can let me know i would greatly appreciate it
Good video. The pictures are a good aid to keep the clocking correct!
I never understood why it matters where the oil holes went because of the oil Gally that goes all the way around the bearing but the oil wedge you explained I understand and why if there not positioned correctly the oil pressure is efected
This is the right way not lining the oil hole to the main bearing oil hole where the cam is pushing down against it. This way it creates an oil wedge causing the cam rotation to carry the oil to the high pressure spot at the bottom.It works the same as con rod bearing oiling
Old Ford guy learning how to do Chevy's...THANKS!
appreciate your explanation and knowledge. going out right now to install.
Great video. Very detailed.
I did my first cam bearings and got #5 wrong. Thanks for explaining about the oiling of the cam i going back and changing #5 now b4 pinston install
If you remove any of the new cam bearings do not reuse them.
Great video, huge help…
Very well explained. Thanks
I'm doing this on a 5.7 vortec, the only difference I see is that the vortec motor cam bearing bores have the complete inner circular groove for the oil supply, instead of just the one hole in the 8 o clock install position. Basically they all look like the #1 bearing.
it amazes me that there is confusion on bearing position,, they have to line up with the holes in the block,,.
Thank you so much that was so good how you explained it really appreciate it!
Thank you for this. This explains the chewed up bearings in my new-to-me s10.
Interesting, I just pulled a 355 apart with oil pressure problems and found bearing #1 at 12 and 4 o'clock, #2 through 4 @ 12 o'clock and # 5 @ 6 o'Clock....I think I found the problem. Thanks for the informative video, oh and where did you get that diagram on 12, 8 and 4 o'clock positions
life saver video thanks alot ,you should do more videos good bless you
Great tips thank you for the information question if the block doesn't go to a machine shop. But wanting to clean the oil galleries what's the proper tool to use for the. Cleansing process to do it with thank you.
I just bought a 283 and that's exactly what I suspected... Two rods on a fresh rebuild were oil starved bc of metal shavings. I literally said man how would shavings be in the oil system like that. They looked almost as if it were a drill shaving but I'm thinking the oil pressure was pushing and pushing the crank was rotating and curled them up. Thank again. New subscriber. Share more. Haha. Very soon too!!! Any tricks .. especially on a 283? Curious 😁
Great info, thanks!
Great job on showing position of bearings. However, im disappointed that you didn't show how you actually installed or "knocked" in the bearings. Do, did you just take a hammer and beat them in or did you use some kind of tool and how did you know when to stop knocking?
I was kind of looking forward to seeing the actual install with the tool but... "on to the next video."
If you buy #sealedpower bearings #1749M 3201DRC goes in 1, 3202DRC goes in 2-5, 3203DRC 3-4
Helpful video thanks
Best video out there, Thank you
Great video with awesome explanation. I am rebuilding a 2004 4.3 Vortex 6 cy are the location for the cam the same. I just got my engine back from the shop all my bearing hole are line up with the bock oil hole. service manual tell me 3 or 9 o clock on the upright position . then I also had to tear down my daughters car that has the same engine different year 1996 the original bearings where not at the service recommendation. Now I'm lost what is the best postion for this 4.3
Thanks
Frank
Thank you for the video. Very helpful
Great video !!!
Great video
Anyone else think of the amount of printer ink used to print those pics? Not bashing, just thinking. Good video
Yeah, and I tried to see what CAD program he was using, but couldn't make it out. I have TurboCAD Deluxe 21. I would have used black lines with white background, but the idea he has of making the drawing for the purpose of establishing the 12 o'clock mark is a good one.
Really......
A how to install video with no installation occurring! Good info though.
You say you have a 400 cu in block. Every 400 block I have ever worked on has three freeze plug holes on each side . Your block has two.
That being said your install procedure provides great information.
Yes, it is a 400 block. Look at the steam holes on the deck surface. Not all 400 blocks have 3 freeze plugs on the side.
You can see the steam holes on my other video about checking your block when it comes back from the machine shop. i used the same block in both videos.
@@DRAGSLICK Thanks I learned something new.
This video helped a lot I've been trying to help my dad with his small-block and now I know why I stick with my 4-cylinder HONDAS......Hate to say it but Chevy and Ford V8s (n prob more) Are not very well built AT ALL.......
Running 23 dealerships with the family business. Everyone who claims Honda's are built better just because; are full of crap! I have seen horrible lemons, and very expensive fixes in Honda's and Toyota's come in. Same with Chevy's, Ford's, Ram's, etc but none more than the other. Matter of fact, Honda's counter weight belt system is so typical in our three Honda service departments that it's an eye roll when another one comes in..... although a nice money maker for us.
Awesome informative video
I thought your video gave some good information thank you
when installing the bearings, which side do you install first, the farthest side from either of the ends? ? and do they all go in from the inside of the block outward? im thinking u would do the farthest away first, so you dont score any in the middle by the installer tool rubbing against the bearings? thanks
I hope you oil your cams better than you oil your chairs.
lmfao
Agreed WD40 is your friend man
@@mikeeagle2653 WD40 sucks as a lubricant
@@Cobese bitch please
Hi Thanks for your video. Excellent. I am doing the same on a 2001 pontiac sunfire 2.2 engine, I need to confirm, if this engine uses the same installation logic. Thank you.
🔥🔥🔥🔥👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻We give this video AAA PLUS ! .And new sub here 🧐🔥🔥👍🏻👍🏻 HAPPY FALL 🦃🦃
Thank you! Great video!!!
Good teaching style . Thanks
Welp I hope this also works on my 4.3 I guess time will tell!! Thanks!!
If not I’m going to blame it on the cheep ebay bearings and hey they are coming in great!
Thank you Sir
That's smar but how far you drive them in until the front lip flush on a1975 'll them exce1 no.5 the lip from back ?
Awesome video…..thanks for going slow !
Imma put mine in at 5 and 7 yeeehaaw wish me luck boys😂😂😂😂😂
Where can i get a print out of that bearing u use
So when the bearing is in correctly if i put the same size wire through the hole that would verify? or does the cam bearing hole match up to the groove in the block?
Hole should match up to the groove in the block. Do not line up the hole in the block with the hole in the bearing.
@@DRAGSLICK Having oil pressure issue. All plugs in block even hidden plug. bearing 2.5 to 3 thou. clock cam bearings/ Hei msd /stock pan with Melling hv pump.1/2`` off pan/20/50 oil wix filter only 30 psi when cold and 10 when hot. Does not increase much when at 2500prm. verified test gauges as well. Bad pump? Fresh rebuild 355. also new bypass for oil filter.
yeah good vid, would u say the cam bearings hav 2 b installed with the engine & crank removed or is it posible to install them with the block upright in the car with only the cam removed or maybe this is impossible?
I bet if there's room for the cam bearing installation tool, you could probably pull it off. Just make sure that the holes are aligned over the oil wells correctly, then you should be good to go
This work on 4.3 too
Hank, is that you?
Is this the exact the same for BBC too?
thank you sir :)
This is not the right way I’ve put 3 sets in this way and haven’t got over 20 lbs of oil pressure
Thank you sir!
nice video~~~ thank you
You say once you flip the engine it’ll have film of oil to ride on. Well seems right the opposite of what you’re doing.
Good ole’ oil saddle
Thanks, informative.
Thanks
Do I know you at Indy!
How far in do you do #5 bearing ?
It's further back compared to 1-4, a good way to check is to see if the hole is lined up with the oil well by poking thru the hole to feel if you go into the well
Oirl hole
I made the diagram at work on my computer. Here is a link to the durabond bearing website that shows what they recommend. www.dura-bondbearing.com/Portals/3/pdf/Cam%20bearing%20oil%20holeTechnical%20Bulletin.pdf
Thank you! I was wondering where I could get that
Never showed how to install cam bearings or tools used.
WTF?
2 o clock
4 oclock
8 o clock
12 o clock
Block upside down
Block right side up
That shit confusing as hell