Two comments on developing: 1. C-41 process called for a pre-bath (water) at or slightly above developing temp. This is to warm up the film and tank. Otherwise, developer added to a cold tank will drop several degrees or more, leading to under-development. 2. Too avoid confusion, let's correct he usage of the term "fixer". Here he's using a single solution which combines the bleach and fixer chemicals, the "blix". "Fixer" performs the same task in both color and B&W processes, to dissolve and remove unprocessed silver emulsion from the film base. What he calls fixer here is the "stabilizer", which after washing the film, chemically embeds in the film emulsion and counteracts modification of the color dyes in the film when they are exposed to environmental elements which would degrade them.
Hey this is awesome! I would recommend to move to a highly ventilated area, and wearing a mask and gloves should you getting in contact with the chemicals. Breathing in c-41 chemicals can cause serious damage. Please be safe!
The chemicals used in these development kits do not fume, so the idea of needing, or even casually benefiting, from a mask which would filter your air is ridiculous. Likewise, casual skin contact with the chemicals requires washing. Thin gloves are nice just to avoid any smells, stains or the possible allergic reaction. If you are allergic to chemicals used in simple photo processing, then you should probably not be doing this type of work at all.
My man, thank you for making this video! I particularly liked the scanning part, simple straightforward explanation with a clear visual. Will surely refer to this on my next scans!
This is the best how-to video that I've ever seen. I was captivated by the great audio quality, soothing music, and beautiful cinematography. There's no other Lab Box video on CZcams that can compete with this one. Great job, man. Just FYI, this video made me subscribe.
The video makes the Lab-Box look easy and trouble free. While it can be such if used with care and precision, the reality is that it's reel assembly and loading process offers numerous opportunities for subtle mistakes which can destroy your film. That is the price of the convenience it also offers. The video completely skips over all of that.
Thank you SO much. Every time I google how to develop film, I always get these awkward old guys that don't make sense. This was aesthetically pleasing, to the point, and honestly... I just vibed with it. Can't wait to try this out!
Man....just trying to find a review and tutorial on the lab box, and instead found an insta-subscribe channel. This video was informative, instructive, and just great editing. Well done. I had to rewind and listen to what you were saying after you scanned your photos because I was so engrossed in the results of the initial scan.
While I have nothing against using protective gloves, if for no other reason to avoid getting chemical smells in your skin which do not wash out easily, there is nothing in the C-41 developer which poses any chemical contact risk, assuming you are not drinking it. The blix solutions tend to be somewhat high on the acidic side, but unless you soak your hands for some time in the stuff, a normal person will have no contact issues. Likewise for the smell. All of this heavy plastic gloves and respirator talk on YT is 95% nonsense. (Yes, and I actually manufacture my own B&W, C-41, and E-6 chemistry for bulk chemicals, and I have done so for 35 years without mask or glove. I'm still around to call BS on this BS. Now, if you want to get a chemical hit from photo processing, go find some Cibachrome bleach to use. Once used, that fumes from that product will lay you out on the floor.) The only potentially poisonous photo chemicals I've ever used are some developing agents which have not been commonly used since the 1950s, excepting that family of developers commonly referred to as "pyro". Even that is not really dangerous unless you consume it or handle the solutions excessively. Pyro developers are quite good, but I do not use them myself for that reason.
Why do you use fixer after you have already blixed the film? If it's for the stabilizing compounds in the fixer, it is much cheaper to buy a stabilizer instead of wasting fixing chemistry to fix the film a second time.
I do a presoak with water slightly above the dev temp to heat the film and keep at temp. It also helped clean the film of any junk I may have left on it
Interesting video thanks. Now question; do you need to wash and dry the box after putting a new chemical in it? I noticed you just drain it then add the other chemical at the correct temperature.. just wondering as it’s critical isn’t it? Cheers & good work I’m almost at the point of buying it now it seems so easy!
Depends on the process being used. These "at home" color process kits omit stop bath after the developer, omit interim washes, and combine bleach and fixer into "blix" as a matter of convenience to the user and economy to the maker, although doing so tends to degrade the quality of the results you get compared to a commercial C-41 process run. Most users cannot tell the difference. At the end of a developing process, you need to rinse the tank, although if you wash the film in the tank, that should take care of itself. You have to fully dry the reel before reuse, which is a requirement common to practically all plastic reels. His practice of washing the film, on the reel, in the LabBox is a poor idea, if for no other reason than the configuration makes properly washing the film difficult. This is because the wash water cannot be forced to flow through the reel and over the film surface inside the tank. (The original Kickstarter package for the LB planned to add a simple washing tube that would attach to the tank and flush rinse water inside. That was dropped without comment about half way thorough the L-B development process. That, plus the fact that the 35mm reel was completely redesigned just before the L-B was first distributed, suggests that they discovered that even flow of solution or water in the tank without reel agitation is a problem.) Suggestion: Buy a 2nd reel. When finished developing a film, pull the reel and film, and wash separately. Use the 2nd (dry) reel to load and process the next film, while drying the first reel for immediate reuse. Without experimenting with my L-B, I suspect that a quick drying with a paper towel inside the tank will be adequate between reuse.
About 25 rolls. Alot of people push the limits up to 40 rolls so it's most likely conservative. It's also good to clean the tank by pouring water to help keep everything tidy.
I live in the Bay Area, you can totally sell this as an Airbnb experience. I have 2 rolls of childhood films to develop only, not sure if I want to invest in all the materials, hmm
Do you run into any issues with how the film loads onto the reel? Every roll I have done has spots where the film touches at different points causing it to stick together and not develop correctly. I also have issues with film getting crinkled up. I've developed around fifteen rolls of film and have had trouble with every roll.
Strongly recommend that you carefully review the most recent L-B instructions on reel assembly, then break down and reassemble your reel(s). The original reel assembly instructions were a nightmare of misdirection, but the current update with better written instruction and a lot more pictures makes that easier to get right. The problem is that (1) the index markings on the parts of the reel are often faint or totally missing (not the best quality Chinese molding I guess), and (2) the reels can be physically mis-assembled several ways and still look "good" if you are not really into the process. I suspect that you have assembled the grooved sides of your reel 180 degrees out of alignment, so the grooves are not aligned when the film tries to seat properly.
Please, could you write the times of each process and the form and stops of agitation in each one of them? I'm very sorry, I don't know English and I can only understand it in writing with the translator. Many thanks. 🙏🏻
How did you manage to get Digital ICE Technology to work on Epson Scan 2 ? Product Support recently told me this wasn't possible. Keep up the great work, your videos are amazing tho 👌💯
ICE is implemented through a combination of hardware and software. If you do not have the hardware installed in the scanner to do the infrared scan required, no amount oi "ICE" software is going to make it happen.
Awesome video. I love the minimalist style you have and calm story telling. Wanted to ask you a question as a newb. When you use graduated cylinders and funnels for mixing and putting back the chemicals back into bottles, do you have dedicated ones for each (eg developer, stopper, fixer, etc), or rinse them off between use, or none ? Essentially, I’m wondering if there’s any cross contamination risks rendering the chemicals less effective. Would appreciate any guidance. Thanks!
As long as you rinse them after each use, you have no need to dedicate measuring cylinders and funnels for each solution. All doing otherwise is likely to accomplish is (1) training you to not promptly clean your equipment, and (2) leave unwashed items to confuse and cross-contaminate solutions. The less clutter you have, the less likely to make such errors
If you have been using a Lab-Box and are tired of turning that stupid little knob, you might like this project: czcams.com/video/Q7-vOVZeiio/video.html
@@johnnyl.4911 wasting water really is irrelevant when we refer to analogue photography Johnny, as you throw away the box, chemicals, packaging etc. Your film needs 24 hours to wash completely, with clean water, it's part and parcel of this type of photography.
@@johnnyl.4911 not forever though as they get contaminated and have to be thrown away. But that doesn't go against the fact you have to wash the film constantly for a long time to completely remove any chemicals because ultimately they will damage the film. Those that had developed modern film in the 60/80s will know how bad they look for washing film only for a few hours. Trial and error
24 hours is overkill, unless it is a really large developing tank. 30 minutes is more than enough time if you really want to wash away everything. I'm okay with a little patina after a couple of years, a 3 minutes is good enough and waste significantly less water.
Every video I've watched about film scanning has everyone touching their frames with barehands, and I don't know anyone gets away with it cause everytime I've touched mine, it leaves behind prints like crazy. And I make sure my hands are throughly washed maticulously. Why are my hands cursed?
Yes I have, started with that. Great camera, best bang for the buck though is a Nikon FM2/F3 in my opinion. Not to mention nikon glass is affordable and sharp.
After scanning through EPSON, do you happen to make further adjustments and edits in lightroom or photoshop? I've been wanting to develop and scan my own film, but I'm not quite savvy in post film color correction.
Thanks for this! Couple of questions: When you pour the chemicals back into the bottle, some of the chemicals in the previous step most likely got mixed into the bottle. Is that okay? And instead of hanging the film to dry - could I just wipe it with a paper towel?
Sure Jan I‘m new to developing, but I assume wiping it with a paper towel could potentially damage the film by scratching it. Whether that’s visible in the scan or not is probably debatable.
Two comments on developing:
1. C-41 process called for a pre-bath (water) at or slightly above developing temp. This is to warm up the film and tank. Otherwise, developer added to a cold tank will drop several degrees or more, leading to under-development.
2. Too avoid confusion, let's correct he usage of the term "fixer". Here he's using a single solution which combines the bleach and fixer chemicals, the "blix". "Fixer" performs the same task in both color and B&W processes, to dissolve and remove unprocessed silver emulsion from the film base. What he calls fixer here is the "stabilizer", which after washing the film, chemically embeds in the film emulsion and counteracts modification of the color dyes in the film when they are exposed to environmental elements which would degrade them.
So, can you consider the fixer/stabilizer an optional step? I am going to immediatly scan the images and discard the film.
Hey this is awesome! I would recommend to move to a highly ventilated area, and wearing a mask and gloves should you getting in contact with the chemicals. Breathing in c-41 chemicals can cause serious damage. Please be safe!
MVP
meanwhile im over here dunking my hands in my developer when printing.
The chemicals used in these development kits do not fume, so the idea of needing, or even casually benefiting, from a mask which would filter your air is ridiculous. Likewise, casual skin contact with the chemicals requires washing. Thin gloves are nice just to avoid any smells, stains or the possible allergic reaction. If you are allergic to chemicals used in simple photo processing, then you should probably not be doing this type of work at all.
My man, thank you for making this video! I particularly liked the scanning part, simple straightforward explanation with a clear visual. Will surely refer to this on my next scans!
This is the best how-to video that I've ever seen. I was captivated by the great audio quality, soothing music, and beautiful cinematography. There's no other Lab Box video on CZcams that can compete with this one. Great job, man. Just FYI, this video made me subscribe.
The video makes the Lab-Box look easy and trouble free. While it can be such if used with care and precision, the reality is that it's reel assembly and loading process offers numerous opportunities for subtle mistakes which can destroy your film. That is the price of the convenience it also offers. The video completely skips over all of that.
Thank you SO much. Every time I google how to develop film, I always get these awkward old guys that don't make sense. This was aesthetically pleasing, to the point, and honestly... I just vibed with it. Can't wait to try this out!
Finally a dev and scan video that makes sense. Great job
This video is not for development. But for Relaxing... It's a beautiful video...
Thanks for the quality video, it definitely makes developing at home more possible. Great shots too!
i watched this for how to use the box and subscribed for the amazing quality
Man....just trying to find a review and tutorial on the lab box, and instead found an insta-subscribe channel. This video was informative, instructive, and just great editing. Well done. I had to rewind and listen to what you were saying after you scanned your photos because I was so engrossed in the results of the initial scan.
Seeing you walk around in the empty streets looks so damn peaceful
love the video, the shots, and the dream-like quality that you can only get from film. stay safe
dope video! one of the best I've seen that showcase the process from start to finish
Amazing video. Clear, engaging, and well shot. Subbed.
This is great!! Thank you!
I can’t wait to try this myself by sending out my film to get processed is getting quite expensive. Amazing video btw
He didn't use gloves any other protection which is dangerous to your health. Please do so!
While I have nothing against using protective gloves, if for no other reason to avoid getting chemical smells in your skin which do not wash out easily, there is nothing in the C-41 developer which poses any chemical contact risk, assuming you are not drinking it. The blix solutions tend to be somewhat high on the acidic side, but unless you soak your hands for some time in the stuff, a normal person will have no contact issues. Likewise for the smell. All of this heavy plastic gloves and respirator talk on YT is 95% nonsense. (Yes, and I actually manufacture my own B&W, C-41, and E-6 chemistry for bulk chemicals, and I have done so for 35 years without mask or glove. I'm still around to call BS on this BS. Now, if you want to get a chemical hit from photo processing, go find some Cibachrome bleach to use. Once used, that fumes from that product will lay you out on the floor.) The only potentially poisonous photo chemicals I've ever used are some developing agents which have not been commonly used since the 1950s, excepting that family of developers commonly referred to as "pyro". Even that is not really dangerous unless you consume it or handle the solutions excessively. Pyro developers are quite good, but I do not use them myself for that reason.
Very good instructional! Thanks.
Found this very interesting
to watch. Thanks for sharing.
Kind greetings from Switzerland.
Do you mind dropping links to the products used??
+1, i want to try this as well hahaha
same here
+1
lofi hueguh beats to develop film to
Do you need a fixer, and does it come with the c-41 powder kit?
So cool! I used to have a collection of film cameras but never tried to develop the film myself 😮
This video is perfect! Great shots too!! Cheers!! 🍻👌🏼
Why do you use fixer after you have already blixed the film? If it's for the stabilizing compounds in the fixer, it is much cheaper to buy a stabilizer instead of wasting fixing chemistry to fix the film a second time.
How to know if the temp inside the tank is correct?
I do a presoak with water slightly above the dev temp to heat the film and keep at temp. It also helped clean the film of any junk I may have left on it
great tutorial! gonna buy my kit soon
I love everything about this video!
Use gloves my dude. The contact with the chemicals could lead to cancer. Stay safe 💕
Interesting video thanks. Now question; do you need to wash and dry the box after putting a new chemical in it? I noticed you just drain it then add the other chemical at the correct temperature.. just wondering as it’s critical isn’t it? Cheers & good work I’m almost at the point of buying it now it seems so easy!
Depends on the process being used. These "at home" color process kits omit stop bath after the developer, omit interim washes, and combine bleach and fixer into "blix" as a matter of convenience to the user and economy to the maker, although doing so tends to degrade the quality of the results you get compared to a commercial C-41 process run. Most users cannot tell the difference. At the end of a developing process, you need to rinse the tank, although if you wash the film in the tank, that should take care of itself. You have to fully dry the reel before reuse, which is a requirement common to practically all plastic reels. His practice of washing the film, on the reel, in the LabBox is a poor idea, if for no other reason than the configuration makes properly washing the film difficult. This is because the wash water cannot be forced to flow through the reel and over the film surface inside the tank. (The original Kickstarter package for the LB planned to add a simple washing tube that would attach to the tank and flush rinse water inside. That was dropped without comment about half way thorough the L-B development process. That, plus the fact that the 35mm reel was completely redesigned just before the L-B was first distributed, suggests that they discovered that even flow of solution or water in the tank without reel agitation is a problem.) Suggestion: Buy a 2nd reel. When finished developing a film, pull the reel and film, and wash separately. Use the 2nd (dry) reel to load and process the next film, while drying the first reel for immediate reuse. Without experimenting with my L-B, I suspect that a quick drying with a paper towel inside the tank will be adequate between reuse.
Damn this video made me want to drink Blix like coffee ☕ 🎞
Maybe I was slow but I got so confused when you talked about agitating times haha
Awesome vid, i was wondering. How many times can you re-use the chemicals?
I was wondering the same thing!
About 25 rolls. Alot of people push the limits up to 40 rolls so it's most likely conservative. It's also good to clean the tank by pouring water to help keep everything tidy.
Great! Thanks for sharing!
Can you please tell me where I can buy the Color developer, Blix and Fixer?
Could you add links for all these products?
Best video yet!
I didn't watch it for learning how to develop a film... I watched it for that oyster date.... I'm drooling over that beauty on your wrist 🤤
Really great quality video! Have you used the lab-box to develop medium format?
I’m going to try it and see 🤞
Hi. Is there any difference for developing B&W Films!
Whoa! This is awesome!
god this video was so good dude. i learned a lot
Are these chemicals legal in Washington state ????
Whatsapp c41 chemicals do you use?
I live in the Bay Area, you can totally sell this as an Airbnb experience. I have 2 rolls of childhood films to develop only, not sure if I want to invest in all the materials, hmm
What oz are your amber bottles
Heavily appreciated man !
Oh i'm so glad. Thanks you 😁
Beginner question: How often can I reuse these chemicals? There must be some limit to them, right?
Can we even reuse them? I am really wondering
Usually on the product packaging it will state how many rolls you can get out of the chemicals.
isn't the last step the stabalizer not fixer?
Do you run into any issues with how the film loads onto the reel? Every roll I have done has spots where the film touches at different points causing it to stick together and not develop correctly. I also have issues with film getting crinkled up. I've developed around fifteen rolls of film and have had trouble with every roll.
Strongly recommend that you carefully review the most recent L-B instructions on reel assembly, then break down and reassemble your reel(s). The original reel assembly instructions were a nightmare of misdirection, but the current update with better written instruction and a lot more pictures makes that easier to get right. The problem is that (1) the index markings on the parts of the reel are often faint or totally missing (not the best quality Chinese molding I guess), and (2) the reels can be physically mis-assembled several ways and still look "good" if you are not really into the process. I suspect that you have assembled the grooved sides of your reel 180 degrees out of alignment, so the grooves are not aligned when the film tries to seat properly.
amazing video as always!!
Please, could you write the times of each process and the form and stops of agitation in each one of them? I'm very sorry, I don't know English and I can only understand it in writing with the translator. Many thanks. 🙏🏻
Great video!
How did you manage to get Digital ICE Technology to work on Epson Scan 2 ? Product Support recently told me this wasn't possible. Keep up the great work, your videos are amazing tho 👌💯
ICE is implemented through a combination of hardware and software. If you do not have the hardware installed in the scanner to do the infrared scan required, no amount oi "ICE" software is going to make it happen.
Ang galing 🔥
Someday I will make videos with the same insane quality as yours.
Love the hat!
Awesome video. I love the minimalist style you have and calm story telling. Wanted to ask you a question as a newb. When you use graduated cylinders and funnels for mixing and putting back the chemicals back into bottles, do you have dedicated ones for each (eg developer, stopper, fixer, etc), or rinse them off between use, or none ? Essentially, I’m wondering if there’s any cross contamination risks rendering the chemicals less effective. Would appreciate any guidance. Thanks!
Both! designated + rinsing
As long as you rinse them after each use, you have no need to dedicate measuring cylinders and funnels for each solution. All doing otherwise is likely to accomplish is (1) training you to not promptly clean your equipment, and (2) leave unwashed items to confuse and cross-contaminate solutions. The less clutter you have, the less likely to make such errors
Love this
Genial gracias por el video 👍👍
Thanks
Love you cousin
I was waiting for you to poor your coffee all over the counter like the fixer.
I gotta use my film camera more now
Top video.
If you have been using a Lab-Box and are tired of turning that stupid little knob, you might like this project: czcams.com/video/Q7-vOVZeiio/video.html
Wear Cotton Glover's and rinse your film for 24 hours youll thank yourself for that when you come back to them in 20 years.
Doesn’t that waste too much water? Could you explain in more detail? Thanks!
@@johnnyl.4911 wasting water really is irrelevant when we refer to analogue photography Johnny, as you throw away the box, chemicals, packaging etc. Your film needs 24 hours to wash completely, with clean water, it's part and parcel of this type of photography.
But Eric does seem to reuse the chemicals? How often can you do that before they should be replaced?
@@johnnyl.4911 not forever though as they get contaminated and have to be thrown away. But that doesn't go against the fact you have to wash the film constantly for a long time to completely remove any chemicals because ultimately they will damage the film. Those that had developed modern film in the 60/80s will know how bad they look for washing film only for a few hours. Trial and error
24 hours is overkill, unless it is a really large developing tank. 30 minutes is more than enough time if you really want to wash away everything. I'm okay with a little patina after a couple of years, a 3 minutes is good enough and waste significantly less water.
Every video I've watched about film scanning has everyone touching their frames with barehands, and I don't know anyone gets away with it cause everytime I've touched mine, it leaves behind prints like crazy. And I make sure my hands are throughly washed maticulously. Why are my hands cursed?
Hallo i'm sorry, Where i can buy lab box?
how do you use your sous vide
Is that a rolex air king 34mm? :-)
sous vide those chemicals XD
Updated edc?
Leica M6😍 I was wondering if you ever had a chance to test a-1 it isn’t as good as a Leica M6 but it’s much cheaper
Yes I have, started with that. Great camera, best bang for the buck though is a Nikon FM2/F3 in my opinion. Not to mention nikon glass is affordable and sharp.
Hueguh Thanks! I also have heard lots about the Nikon FM2/F3. I would love to check it out!!! Thank you stay safe!
Why no new post?
After scanning through EPSON, do you happen to make further adjustments and edits in lightroom or photoshop? I've been wanting to develop and scan my own film, but I'm not quite savvy in post film color correction.
Good morning
Thanks for this! Couple of questions: When you pour the chemicals back into the bottle, some of the chemicals in the previous step most likely got mixed into the bottle. Is that okay? And instead of hanging the film to dry - could I just wipe it with a paper towel?
Sure Jan I‘m new to developing, but I assume wiping it with a paper towel could potentially damage the film by scratching it. Whether that’s visible in the scan or not is probably debatable.
what lens did you use? :)
Im just wondering whose your third person ?
videos starts at 2:08. First two minutes are filler.
Bugga trippin but thank you 100% for your feedback
Don’t run cool water over film you’ve just developed in hot chemicals. All the liquids should max be +/- 5°C from each other.
Clothing please
Imma pass on this one. I prefer my lungs formaldehyde free
I wanna get myself a Sous Vide. I'm not a cook.
🙏🌺🌷❤️🌻🌹🌸🌼🙏
Cool vid but as someone mentioned wear gloves and a mask.
Made it seem easy but I’m failin miserably
Nice. But... why though?
Its cheaper than sending your film to a development lab
*pours coffee for video* *doesn’t touch coffee*
looks like you can only do one roll at a time, bummer
Really irrelevant to photography, but where'd you get your mask? :D
Check out OrbitGear and sandisacult in IG. They make pretty similar to cool masks.
NEVER! Never, buy this thing i can't count 120 rolls i destroyed using this .
Lifehack: Buy a smartphone with a camera.
Ditch the %$#@! mask!
Kinda boring...
nah, too much work
Any one from the Eastbay that develops film during this time?