“Accurate” ALICE Frame Mounting - HasLab Proton Pack
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- čas přidán 18. 01. 2023
- Here’s a list of parts I used:
2x M8 x 40mm socket head cap screws
4x M8 flat washers
2x 3/8” diameter x 1” long steel spacers
2x 1/4” diameter x 1” long steel spacers
4x 1/4” flat washers
1x 1/4” x 2” socket head cap screw
1x 1/4” x 1.5” socket head cap screw
You can follow and reach me here:
Twitter: @TPPINAT
Instagram: @theprotonpackisnotatoy
Email: theprotonpackisnotatoy@gmail.com - Zábava
Great work man. This extra detail makes all the difference.
Fantastic, and well done!
I'll be tackling this in the next week! Thanks for putting this out there.
looks great!
Thanks Matt! As usual your video was helpful for this Ghostbusters fan. No need to compare yourself, your channel is doing its own thing and I appreciate it. 👍🏼
Love your videos ! Thank you for this one ! Mine arrives next week 🎉
Got my pack yesterday
It's FREAK'N AWSOME!!
Great tips! Looks great.
As soon as the video started I saw the mountings, I was like yesss that's how it's done!
Great video! I just covered up the holes on the back of the pack (scres, etc) just with black tape.
Cool stuff! Modding can definitely be a rabbit hole and I'm trying not to go too far down that path in anticipation of my pack. I think I've decided to keep the original mounting hardware but thought of at least spray painting it black to make it blend in with the frame and motherboard better. Then, I'm toying with the idea of replacing the split loom for the thrower because the material of the provided hose seems rather stiff...but I don't know that I'm ready for that kind of commitment, considering there are electronics involved. Then the v-hook, paint-apps, etc., etc... I'm really trying not to go too overboard! The pack is honestly impressive even out-of-the-box. Thanks for your vids, as always!
Especially since if you ruin something replacing it will probably be a pain and a half unless Hasbro decides to make more packs.
@@kurisu7885 Yes, indeed.
Thanks for sharing I really wanna make my pack louder
You could very easily fill those strap holes on the motherboard with filler.. automotive plastic filler. Get some acrylic sheet, a few mm thick. Hot glue it in. This will serve as a base for the filler to sit in (without it, it will just fall right through the hole. Wet sand. Paint it. Done!
I wish hasbro would give a way to either upgrade the speaker or a speaker replacement
Matt - appreciate your work and your considered and creative passion for Ghostbusters fandom! One thing, however, made me cringe while you were drilling the holes in the frame and the back of the pack motherboard at 3:58 and 5:52. Best to put a block of scrap wood (especially under the metal strap and top part of the frame) to brace the work, so that you can safely drill through without putting your fingers/hand at risk. Ideally, clamping the whole thing to the work table is also a good idea as well. Enjoy your vids - be safe!
I appreciate your concern, thanks for watching
That's right what I was looking for! Could you do a list of the parts you need to do this?
Yes I’ll add it to the description
Great stuff. Where did you get the neckroll on the frame? I noticed there are two layers. What's the outer layer? Can you please provide links as to where you got them? Thanks
Your answers are here: czcams.com/video/S6w76QYUivQ/video.html
Really enjoying going through your videos. Keep up the great work, just a quick question has anyone heard of using a rechargeable lithium battery pack to power the proton pack instead of the 4 D cell batteries? I only ask since I have a couple extra floating around and figured I would ask since the voltages are close but not quite the same. Sorry if this is the wrong place to ask. Also I have heard of some people just adding a 3.5mm headphone jack to the speaker leads amd using a Bluetooth speaker or something similar to amplify the sound was wondering if anyone has tried that as well. Thanks for the vids again and hope maybe some of these mods I have heard of are something that is useful and can be used y someone here as well I am going to try the speaker mod soon and may try the battery pack mod at the same time since I wilm have the back off l.
I saw a video yesterday where someone soldered in a power pack to the battery compartment so they could recharge it and save some weight. He said it would also run longer than the D cells but I guess that depends on the power pack you use.
@bluesthing7490 thr packnibhave is something around the 10000 mah size puts out something like 5 or 5.5 V and the amps depend on which output I use if I use the USB c it is a bit higher I think then the regular USB a. Guess it will be a trial and error thing for me once I have some extra time. Plus want to wait till I have all the parts I want gathered together Soni just don't all at once. Seems like te best idea to m. Plus I am in no rush to get it done at the moment still waiting on wand anyways andni will want to mod that as well so take my time figure it all out then see what everyone else has done and what I like and what I don't like. Cherry pick the best mods and see how nit turns out.
Great tutorial buddy, do you think you will mod the speaker to make it louder ?
It’s not in my current plans, but I won’t say no outright.
What do you use to glue your neoprene to the neck insulation? Will crazy glue/superglue do it?
Maybe, I used that same TRex double sided “super glue” tape, and the neoprene held to the insulation well. However getting the ends to stay together with Velcro has been less than perfect.
Will you be doing a wethering video or changing the clippard for a real one?
Not planning to change the Clippard right now. Maybe V-Hook and ion arm end cap. I’ll probably save weathering for last after I’m happy with the mods, but I’m nothing special when it comes to weathering.
I would like to lower the mounting position of my ALICE frame so that the pack will stand up on it's own. I hate the fact that with the ALICE frame installed the pack doesn't sit in the stand right or stand on it's own. I hope this is something that will work. I haven't really looked at it yet to see. I'm just hoping that it will be ok. Thoughts???
It does fit on the stand with the frame on, so no worries there. The real props didn’t stand on their own either, so most of us use guitar stands to hold up our replicas. Some people get tornado hooks and mount them to the wall.
Why didn't you use the half moon 3D printed piece? It just needs a single location replacement compared to the Hasbro with two M6x25 screws
The way I did it matches the screen used props more closely.
@@TheProtonPackIsNotAToy Thank you for your reply. I understand. Your approach matches the AF one perfectly.
But are the haslab gonna build more Spengler proton pack around spring?
It was a crowdfunded preorder project. I don’t believe there will be any more to purchase from Hasbro.
@@TheProtonPackIsNotAToy I guess I'm lucked out. Oh well
What are you using for the spacers?
Lower spacers are steel 3/8” diameter by 1” long, the two on the holes I drilled are 1/4” diameter by 1” long.
I recently did this to my pack and it's very nice however I can't screw in a few of the screws because the Alice frame is in the way. What do I do?
I secured the new wing nuts inside the shell. As simple as putting a strip of duct tape over them so they don’t turn when the bolts are twisted. So now I can close the pack, put in the tiny screws, then just screw the frame on from the outside.
@@TheProtonPackIsNotAToy I meant the motherboard. The frame is in the way from me screwing in some of the screws for the motherboard
Yes, I had the motherboard completely closed with all screws tightened. Then I lined up the frame and attached it at the 4 mounting points. The two on the upright will only work if the nuts are secured from moving on the inside.
@@TheProtonPackIsNotAToy how do I secure the nuts from moving? In the video you put the screws first then the nuts on the inside. My problem is that I put the frame on just as shown in the video but there is no room for my screwdriver to screw some of the screws to reattach the motherboard to the pack. And neither can I screw the beam line tube back in because the screw goes in right under the cross bar
Right, I had the same problem. Forget the video for a moment.
Put your frame bolts into the motherboard enough to attach the nuts on the inside of the motherboard. Again, I used wing nuts, which came in handy because I used a strip of duct tape over each of the top two bolts, and pinched it down on either side to keep the wing nuts in place, and unable to turn.
Now, remove the bolts. Put the shell and motherboard back together and tighten ALL of the tiny screws that came with the pack.
Now line up your frame with your mounting holes and tighten the bolts.
It's a toy bro
*Phoebe voice* Yes I’m aware.
It's a toy and people can play with it however they want. We don't need the toy police here yucking other people's yum.