excelente video, tengo una Daytona pero no me atrevo a revisarla como lo hiciste, te felicito por el coraje de hacerlo, tendré que llevar la mia al concesionario, tiene un sonido en el tensor de cadena cuando la arranco en frio
Its been running fine since, I’ve done around 1000kms no oil leaks etc. there was a tapping sound but on forums the say that’s normal “tappy valve, happy valve” is quoted often. I’m a bit paranoid that I didn’t use a torque wrench on the cam mounting and cam cover, I didn’t have one that was low enough for those bolts. Also the cam cover rubber can be fiddly, make sure its on properly all round while your bolting the cam cover and keep checking during the mid and end of bolting it down. Also don’t forget the gasget adhesive on the corners of the cam cover seals. Also I didn’t show how I retracted the chain tension, it was a little difficult, a G clamp could help. Good luck.
Coming up on my 12k service, thanks for this video. Did you have any chain noise on start up? Mines recently started I’ve read that the chain tensioner may need replacing to a manual type. Was this something you encountered with yours?
I got chain noise on first startup after doing the job but subsequent startups are fine. The manual said its normal to noise first start but not the starts after that. Did you reset or rewind the tensioner before reinstalling it? Not doing so can break your chain.
Please verify its the correct manual from your VIN. Also do you know to calculate the new shim size if its out? I think there is a table also if you don't want to calculate it. drive.google.com/file/d/1rlVrxdMVJS46U03_eB6FMkmG8vvx6bB9/view?usp=sharing
Good question! 1. The manufacturer specifies that you need to do a valve check every 20,000kms (for this bike) maybe a little more or less on other bike 25,000kms etc. 2. When I did the check I noticed that the gap on the exhaust valves were too tight i.e. were either passed or on the boarder of the lower spec. gap. 3. If you don't adjust the valve gap and it goes out of spec you will blow your engine. Especially for exhaust valves to get too tight, this is because the exhaust valve needs time seat against the head to cool down when running, less gap means less time (or even no time to cool down because it does not touch) and you will burn a valve. The other problem that can happen opposite to getting too tight is they can get too loose. This is not as bad as getting too tight, the engine might be a little noisy and you can loose a bit of power. I hope this helps?
Way to go bro! I think you are the first one to post a valve clearance check and adjustment video for gen 3 Daytona 👏🏼
Thx man, it was quite satisfying and i saved a ton of money.
excelente video, tengo una Daytona pero no me atrevo a revisarla como lo hiciste, te felicito por el coraje de hacerlo, tendré que llevar la mia al concesionario, tiene un sonido en el tensor de cadena cuando la arranco en frio
These bikes have alot of sound from the chain tensioner. Even when i turn the engine by hand in the video i can hear it clicking.
Great video! Lots of useful tips throughout.
Any issues down the line since the adjustment?
Anything you learned after publishing the video?
Thanks!
Its been running fine since, I’ve done around 1000kms no oil leaks etc. there was a tapping sound but on forums the say that’s normal “tappy valve, happy valve” is quoted often. I’m a bit paranoid that I didn’t use a torque wrench on the cam mounting and cam cover, I didn’t have one that was low enough for those bolts. Also the cam cover rubber can be fiddly, make sure its on properly all round while your bolting the cam cover and keep checking during the mid and end of bolting it down. Also don’t forget the gasget adhesive on the corners of the cam cover seals. Also I didn’t show how I retracted the chain tension, it was a little difficult, a G clamp could help. Good luck.
Coming up on my 12k service, thanks for this video. Did you have any chain noise on start up? Mines recently started I’ve read that the chain tensioner may need replacing to a manual type. Was this something you encountered with yours?
I got chain noise on first startup after doing the job but subsequent startups are fine. The manual said its normal to noise first start but not the starts after that. Did you reset or rewind the tensioner before reinstalling it? Not doing so can break your chain.
I haven’t done my service yet I already have chain noise on start up, so this would indicate that the tensioner needs to be rewound or adjusted then..
@@MrMillander sorry i misinterpreted. You only need to reset your tensioner after it gets taken out.
@@sparkthego no worries. Cheers
im going to do mine soon, thanks for this post. would you be able to link me to the manuals?
Please verify its the correct manual from your VIN. Also do you know to calculate the new shim size if its out? I think there is a table also if you don't want to calculate it.
drive.google.com/file/d/1rlVrxdMVJS46U03_eB6FMkmG8vvx6bB9/view?usp=sharing
@@sparkthego i appreciate this greatly, i have a 2014 675r so this close or the same
Your VIN must be higher that what is specified on the first page of the manual
@@sparkthego yes it is. How long did the whole process take you?
Id estimate 20 work hours, but id do it in 1/3 of the time now that I know what im doing. Waiting for parts took around 1 week
What software are using to see the procedure, my hanes service manual doesnt tell the sequence for the camshaft
I used the original service manual from Triumph, not the hanes manual. I found it online for free
Dumb question… why did you do a valve adjustment?…
Good question! 1. The manufacturer specifies that you need to do a valve check every 20,000kms (for this bike) maybe a little more or less on other bike 25,000kms etc. 2. When I did the check I noticed that the gap on the exhaust valves were too tight i.e. were either passed or on the boarder of the lower spec. gap. 3. If you don't adjust the valve gap and it goes out of spec you will blow your engine. Especially for exhaust valves to get too tight, this is because the exhaust valve needs time seat against the head to cool down when running, less gap means less time (or even no time to cool down because it does not touch) and you will burn a valve. The other problem that can happen opposite to getting too tight is they can get too loose. This is not as bad as getting too tight, the engine might be a little noisy and you can loose a bit of power. I hope this helps?