Oil Change for Suzuki Outboards 9.9 hp, 15 hp, & 20 hp - Winterization
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- čas přidán 12. 11. 2022
- Follow these steps to perform an oil change (and lower unit lube change) on any of the newer style Suzuki 9.9 hp, 15 hp, and 20 hp. We're referring to the fuel injected, twin cylinder models. The same process can be followed for tiller models, long shaft, short shaft, manual and power tilt. The engine block and components are essentially the same when it comes to an oil and gear lube change. These happen to be 2020 and 2021 model year motors that we're working on in the video. Always double check the parts and part numbers with the schematic and what the factory calls for on your outboard! I hope this gives you the know-how to do the job yourself at home and that it helps save you some cash when it's time for an oil change on your motor.
From this video, the Suzuki Engine Oil Filter part #: 16510-45H10
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Awesome detailed! Cheers for that!!!🤘
Happy to help!
Thanks a lot! Great video, You explained this really well. Just what I needed! 👍
Perfect! Glad it was helpful, and thanks for watching!
Thanks you showed me what to expect on my new 30 hp.
Great!! It’ll be slightly different as I believe your 30 has a spin on filter instead of the style on these twin cylinder motors. Pretty straight forward though!
Great video. I just bought a 14-foot aluminum with a 2012 suzuki 9.9 four stroke. I'm going to change the oil on it soon and I'm glad I found your video!
Awesome!! Just double check part numbers for your motor as the motors in the video are 2020 and newer. Should be darn near the same though!
@@tomspontoons Hi, I'm still on the break-in period on my DF9.9b. I understand that I'm supposed to do the first full oil changes at 20hrs, however as it's attached to a sailboat access to do so while in the water is challenging. Most fellow sailors with such engines do their oil changes at the end of season when boat is hauled, so how much beyond first 20hrs do you believe is "ok" for the sake of the motor and warranty? Thank you!
@@donc2334 when I sold new outboards we told customers 10-20 hours for the first oil change is ideal. If they were only going to run it for 40-50 hours (common in Michigan) that first season then they could run it and then do the oil change at end of season. I don’t know all the technicalities of the warranty, but that’s what many of our customers did and I never saw a problem from it.
If you’re going to pile on 100+ hours then yes, find a way to change that oil!
THanks...VERY helpful!
Happy to help!!
Great video. Thanks.
Thank you, and thanks for watching my channel!
Great! Thank you...
Happy to help! Thanks for watching!
Is the thread for the lower unit drain 8mm or 10mm? I drained mine to change it for the first time assuming it was the same thread as my Johnson/evinrude but not the case so I need to get an adapter for my pump to fill it. Awesome video by the way, very informative
Sorry, I don't know the thread size. However, I do know that I have a pump kit with fitting for Mercury and Johnson/Evinrude lower units and a different pump kit for Japanese motors...so you're definitely spot on about needing an adapter. Thank you for watching!
I found this video by accident... Can you do or do you have a video on the pontoon this 9.9 is mounted to..?? Looking for a smallish pontoon for our little 50 acre lake... I looove Suzuki 9.9's...
Suzuki was the front-runner in EFI portable motors, gotta love them for that! This motor was on a Bennington 18' and used on an 80 acre lake. It's a great little setup because it gives better space than the Gill Getters or narrower style pontoons for smaller water. The boat is back with its owner so I don't have pictures of the setup...typical cruising style full of seats. They're super happy with the motor for their application.
We have installed a 9.9 Suzuki on a 24' pontoon on a small no wake lake as well and they've had no complaints!
Hello! Thanks for the video!
What to do is the oil bolt is stuck and won't come out easily? Any tips?
Thanks in advance!
They definitely tend to be very tight from the factory. I’ve always been able to get them free though. If it’s really making you nervous that something’s going to break it might be something you let a dealer do first, then continue on your own for future oil changes….just to be safe!!
@@tomspontoons Thank your very much for your quick response! I'll do so!
the 8 is also the same.. also the cheapest to buy new and the coolest to upgrade to 20.. cause ur more undercover.. wich is very important in some countries..
They’re just great motors either way too!
Brother Suzuki 9hp electric starter motor inside already have or we have to fix that
Suzuki makes a 9.9 hp motor that comes with electric start already installed.
Ive got the 15hp version of this. But its got a massive fuel leak. And i just dont know how to fix it. Its just pumping fuel out of a vent line at the top of the engine.
Its comming from the rubber line that runs directly behind the dipstick
I don’t have one at my shop to reference, but I’d say get that motor to a local servicing dealer to have it taken care of asap!
You're supposed to change both O-rings the one on the cap and the one behind the filter
How many between months should change like this
Every 100 hours is ideal. Most of the time it’s once per season (about 6 months here in the Midwest).
Is it a problem if you forget to warm up the motor before removing the oil plug. Do I just have to wait longer for it to drain or will it not drain completely unless it's warm?
It helps for the engine and oil to be warm before draining, but it's not 100% necessary. Yes, you'll just have to wait longer, but it will all drain out.
I was just looking at how to upgrade the 9.9 Suzuki to a 20 HP with the electronic control box upgrade for like $500
On a pontoon there’s not really any need to do so. I don’t think any speed would change, and the torque at lower to mid RPMs would be the same. I worry bout warranty with those kits!
It may not do much on a pontoon as he said, but my tracker grizzly 1448 will run 25mph after the upgrade😂
@@davidj-qe4hn Haha! Different animal right there. How fast was it as just a 9.9 hp?
I accidentally changed my oil and forgot to put the copper washer that was in the waste oil, I saved it but I already put the new oil back in, it doesn't appear to be leaking and I'm going to change it again in two or three days after a hundred more miles, I'm assuming it will be ok, any thoughts?
You could try to tilt the motor all the way up and oil drain facing up, pull the drain bolt and have a rag ready to plug the drain hole. Slip the washer back on and bolt back in. That’s probably what I’d do if it were my motor!!
I wouldn’t risk it.
@@gravis00 definitely agree that it should be in place!!
Hi i am Nikson from India,i am asking you Suzuki or Yamaha 9hp which is good
Suzuki’s 9.9 HP motor is fuel injected which would make me lean towards that. It’s heavier, but being fuel injected is very nice for starting and maintenance.
I am curious; I know you added fuel stabilizer and ran it through the engine but why do you not get all the fuel out of the carburetor either by running the carburetor dry or draining the carburetor bowel? Stabilized or not, why leave fuel in the carburetor over the winter lay-up? Why do you not run "storage seal" through the carb prior to the last shut down before winter lay-up which is about six months according to your reply to @nishownnishow1286 below? How about fogging the inside of the cylinders with corrosion inhibitor? How often do you change out the fuel filter that is housed in the plastic looking housing you loosened to change the oil filter? When is the fuel filter on your ongoing maintenance schedule? I do not have access to Suzuki's manual for this engine; what does Suzuki recommend for "winterization" or extended periods of non-use?
Lots of great questions...to answer most of them this is not a carbureted motor. It is fuel injected with a closed fuel system where they DO NOT recommend running it out of fuel. Simply treat the fuel and leave it in the system over the winter. You could absolutely make it yearly routine to swap the fuel filter, however we usually do it every other year on boats like this that see minimal use. And yes, you could fog the cylinders, but I've found running the proper fuel mixture will lubricate everything throughout the system including the cylinders. Certainly for prolonged storage (like years) I would want to go above and beyond with lubricating the cylinders. I don't have the owners manual for this one either, but I'm sure you can get a manual online from a Suzuki parts dealer. This was not my motor, just doing the maintenance and boat storage for a customer.
@@tomspontoons Great reply and thank you for your time. I was not aware that it was fuel injected, that bit of information alone answers most of the questions. Being fuel injected obviously you do not want to run the injection system dry-spot on! Thank you again for making the video and for your valuable time!
@@apackwestbound5946 I figured once you knew it was EFI you'd be caught right up to speed. It's funny though how there is still a big divide between outboard gurus about leaving treated fuel in the carb versus running them dry!
@@tomspontoonsziehen sie den unteren Stopfen linken am Kraftstofffilter ab und lassen sie Kondenswasser rauslaufen. Es schadet der Einspritzanlage. Gute Arbeit.
What if you're running Rec fuel...should you still treat it even though it does not contain Ethanol?
what about the anodes?
Always worth taking a look at, but here in freshwater we rarely have to address the anodes.
@@tomspontoons there is 1 only in this motors?
@@javiolartegutierrez7728 I’d had to pull up a schematic to find that out, or check the owners manual. It’s not here at my shop anymore.
I have a 9.9 has no spark
Yikes! I'm not an outboard mechanic beyond installations and yearly maintenance stuff. I would get that to a local Suzuki servicing marina to get it looked at!
Use new spark plugs. Watch Kill switch.