Unbelievable DIY Fix for Audi Oil Guzzling! A Simple Piston Soak Saved My Engine & Wallet. 🔧
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- čas přidán 23. 08. 2024
- The famous VW/AUDI 2.0L' s with INSANE oil consumption is resolved by doing a piston soak using Berryman's ChemTool B12 for 24 hours.
This Audi Q5 has been guzzling 1 Quart of oil every 2 weeks - especially worse during the colder months where the vehicle idles for longer periods of time.
**UPDATES**:
1 MONTH :
After 1 month of driving and approx. 1700KM's the oil dipstick shows the oil is at MAX with no signs of oil consumption still happening.
2 MONTH :
Oil level still at MAX
I did the B-12 piston soak on my 2013 Q5 2.0T, but I ran 3 full cans through over 72 hours, hand cranking 5 rotations about every 6-8 hours before each refill of 1 oz per cylinder. Also ran Seafoam in the crankcase for 300 miles before the piston soak, AND 2 full cans of B-12 in 1 tank of fuel before the Seafoam. Sprayed some oil fogging mist into the cylinders after letting the last round of B-12 evaporate completely (confirmed with borescope). Car started after about 20 sec of cranking. My consumption was at 1 qt/400 miles. I'm now at 3000 miles with no indication of ANY consumption. Gas mileage has gone from 24 mpg to 29 mpg and performance is great at 126,000 miles. B-12 is my newest find that I have been sharing with anyone that has a car.
Super happy to hear this worked for you!
😂😂😂 So what was the compression on each cylinder ???
@@azarahwagner2749 runs and drives that’s all we care about 😂😂
I'm surprised you didn't hydrolock your engine from adding solutions and 5 rotations crank. What is your secret? Is it the oil fogging mists into the cylinders? Thanks!
@@azarahwagner2749I think they were all about the same, but it was months ago and I didn’t save the values. All I knew is that they were well within spec and I didn’t suspect piston or ring wear needing replacement.
I own a 2012 GTI 2.0TSI Manual I watched several videos on this before performing this service. THIS BLEW MY MIND THAT IT WORKED!!!!. Posting this on every video I can find to help out many more who are unsure. Everyone needs to do this if they have. 2.0 TSI burning oil mine would burn 1/2 quart every 300 miles now can’t even notice. !!!
Crazy, isn’t it?! Glad it worked for you 👍👍
@@bofbolts You still gonna do an update video?
😂😂😂 WHAT WAS YOUR CYLINDER COMPRESSION ???
@@azarahwagner2749 I didn’t test compression but still hasn’t lost any oil in 3 months so it’s a win for me
Omg. I thought you were saying this BLEW MY ENGINE... LOL I'm about to do this with my 2011 bmw 328i I have a bore scope and all tools needed.
Thank you man! you saved me thousands of $. I was blowing through 1qt every 300 miles like clockwork and I did this treatment over the course of one weekend and the results are incredible. The sheer amount of black goo that came out of the cylinders and the oil pan is unbelievable. I'm currently at 450 mile with NO registered change in oil level. I can't believe this worked as well as it did. I will keep you posted on the progress.
My 2012 q5 2.0T does burn a quart every 5oomiles! Should i risk doing this? I am not sure! My dream car turned to be a nightmare! What was your personal experience? did you follow exactly as the video says up here? Thank you for sharing your exp in advance! also i dont have any other issues whatso ever no check engine light, drives great just consumes oil :(
@@johndroc11 I followed the video...sorta mostly. I used more chemtool than was suggested (nearly filling the cylinders) and I did it over the course of an entire weekend starting Friday afternoon and ending Sunday evening. Nor did I drive the car before changing the oil after the treatment. I just changed the oil immediately. The car cranked for a good minute before it started and it was rough for about 10 seconds. In all I used six cans. One thing I would do differently if I was to do it again is to add some oil to the final application to coat the cylinder walls with some lubrication before starting the motor for the first time. Regardless there were no adverse effect given the method I used.
When you finally crank the engine to get the remaining product from the cylinder after the last application, I would cover everything with rags and expect a volcano of shit to come out. After this application, my car drives better, smoother and is more responsive. I never thought this would work and thought it was another snake oil video. Was I wrong. I figured I would try this because I was looking at nearly $8000 of engine work anyway so how could I make it worse. I am the most unlucky son of a bitch in the universe so if this had a chance to fail, it most certainly would have. Now I feel like I won the lottery and am in love with my car once again!
Update! 1200 mile and still full!!! Not one drop burned.
Did you drop the oil pan after the treatment or did all the deposit come out with the oil drain plug?
@@gofastclad974nope...everything was disolved so it came out a pure liquid.
@bofbolts, thanks lot man!
It’s a great fix. No more oil consumption issue after the treatment. So happy….no more oil top up required 😁
Happy it worked for you :) and thanks for reporting your results!!
You're a good man for posting this. I got screwed over when I bought my A4 with 107k miles. It went through 1 qt every 300 miles. I've eliminated oil leaks, my (probably) blown PCV, and even made sure my turbo was good. All that brought my consumption down to about 1 qt every 500 miles. I'm certain it's the rings, and I've been waiting for others to try the B-12 fix. I wasn't completely convinced with Euro's video. 2 is a coincidence; 3 is a trend in my book. I took home a couple of cans of B-12 today, and im waiting for my car to run low. If I remember, I will reply with an update.
Lol lmk what happens
Can’t wait to hear your update. I’m on month 2 with ZERO consumption. It works!
@bofbolts So far, so good... kind of... 200 miles with no consumption. However I have developed a misfire on cylinder 1 and 3 at high RPM under load. Looked at some forums and found others with the same issue, and they fixed it with new fuel injectors. I'll come back with updates soon
@@sircharlezz interesting… maybe check injector seals if you’re removing the intake. That’s a pretty common failure for these 2.0’s.
And just to confirm, you replaced your spark plugs?
@@bofbolts I did change my plugs. I want to check them to be sure they're still good. I might have to try injector seals next time I get her into the shop.
Right now, I gotta worry about an axle on my jetta 2.5
Daughter just bought an Audi Q3 2.0T with about 103k miles and was surprised when the oil light came on. I will be doing a B-12 Chem soak in a couple weeks when I go see her
Let me know how that goes! i am waiting to see more answers and mine is due as well. Not confident yet to start.
For some of you asking about compression numbers I can say my 2015 A6 3.0T with 150k miles on it uses about a quart every 1600-1800 miles and measured 180-195psi across all cylinders. I’d like to try but I wonder if Valvoline Restore and Protect oil would be just as effective. Granted would have to run 5w-30 as they don’t have 5w-40 but the results seem to be really promising.
This man is on point. 100/100. Next can you do a Liqui Moly engine flush video?
No
Just for you - I'll be doing it soon!
why no video shows the part where the crankshaft spins 5 times every 6 hours? this is important for us who are not mechanics!
Look for your crank bolt. It will be one of the pulleys on your belt system. Place a socket and turn it clock wise.
Another option would be allow the chemical to soak and when cylinder is empty place rags over top spark plug holes. Get in and put accelerator pedal to the floor wide open and barely crank it with the key. Accomplishes same thing. All you are really doing is breaking up some of the loose carbon from the soak.
Hyundai has a tsb out for oil consumption issues. Very similar procedure. Seen it work on Hyundai vehicles 👍🏻
I’m gonna try it out on my Elantra with 120k
Funny thing I was looking into this for my VAG.
Can I spin the crank with the starter? I have no easy way to spin the crank on my Volvo 3.2
The Bosch plugs and filters are about as good as you can find and they’re often one of the cheapest options too
Will this fix low compression
Good morning, what do you mean by doing a spin crank at the 18 hrs mark? I don’t see you use the towels until the 24 hr mark to crank the engine
Can you explain that to me?
He means he cranked the engine by hand using a long bar with a socket on the crank shaft. Wow i feel like i helped someone now.
I own audi q5 2.0t and I have same problem with oil consumption every 500 km it runs out of oil. I am struggling to find a b12 fuel injector in europe. Do you have any recommendations about what should I use instead of berryman? Thanks in advance
Piston soaks are the way to go for sure.
for sure. I have done this to two of my cars, 200k miles and 233k miles. Both cars were gulping 1 quart every 600-1k miles and the top of the pistons were full of carbon. After the procedure, the oil consumption has reduced to 90%. unbelievable results.
@@adamnugent2137i have a 2013 Camry burning oil at the same rate. It even destroyed the catalytic converter. I’m gonna try this next week.
@@bob123281 yes. piston oil rings prob all clogged up and top of pistons prob thick with carbon deposit. this procedure is very effective if done properly. Remember to wear eye protective goggles when doing this. I forgot to wear mine and the B-12 chemical sprayed into my eye when I turned the engine over. be careful.
@@adamnugent2137aight ty. Did u replace ur PCV valve before u did it or no
@@bob123281 yes, I did. But that did not made any difference. both of my cars problems were the clogged oil rings.
Im doing this to my 2011 bmw 328i in a few days. Im good with everything up until after blowing it all out through the spark plug holes. At this point i want to change my oil. BEFORE starting as i dont want to overfill it. Or i can remove a quart then be low. So im not sure vut if its safe to change after flushing out the remaining fluid. Thats what I'm wondering. That way when it does start it has fresh oil.
So do you check every 6 hrs and then crank the engine? How do you turn the engine? By starting it or manually turning it? If manually, how do you do it?
Check every 6 hours / or less. You just want to make sure you always have liquid in the cylinders.
To turn over, use a 24MM socket with a breaker bar to turn over the motor by hand.
Hello Sir, I started doing this process today and I am at 6 hour mark at the moment, I have a question when I removed my spark plugs I clearly saw that they was burned. Do you recommend me to put a new ones when I start the engine or should I put the new ones after 30 minute ride? Thanks in Advance
I would recommend after you start and drive, once all of the b12 is burned off and the car idle is stable.
Those extensions and 24 mm socket really came in handy.🤨
LOL fair - I edited that out. Felt it was a waste of viewers time and serves no real purpose besides if you’re interested in rate at which fluid seeps past the rings on each cylinder / or for even distribution while turning over.
I should add a note, thanks for the comment!
24mm is required to turn the crank though.
Hey thanks for the video! Was having trouble with turning the crank on my 2.0t. Any tips?
With the spark plugs out you should be able turn over easily - are you using a long breaker bar?
You should always turn over clockwise, but if you’re stuck at dead center, you could turn counterclockwise a very small amount just to slightly move the pistons during this procedure. Not recommended - but it won’t hurt.
@@bofbolts I saw another post that said to only crank counter-clockwise. I don't understand why it makes a difference either way, but can you elaborate?
Did you put your car in noutral?
very nice, looking forward to the update
yeah come on... we want the update video :-)
My Kia 2.4 is keyless, will it work if just keep pushing the start button ?
So for all soak you use 3 cans of 440 ml each?
Anyone tried running Valvoline Restore and protect oil instead? I know it takes longer but also seems to be easier.
Is that not bad to run your engine like that or possibly bad for your catalytic converter. Honestly asking, I'm a newb.
It’s a good question, and you’re right it’s definitely not good for your catalytic converter. But imagine not doing this procedure and your catalytic converter taking on all that oil, much much worse!
But ultimately yes, it’s not good for the cat and not good for the 02 sensors.
If someone is burning anywhere close to this much oil than that is seriously degrading the life of their cats. B12 is an aggressive solvent, but it also flashes off once its starts getting close to 200f degrees so its doubtful any is even making it to the cats as the exhaust carrying it is way hotter.
Do I need to be worried about the fuel injector when I attempt to turn it over without the spark plugs?
Nope, you’ll be fine.
This works!!!
Now that you've got the oil control rings mostly cleared up,
you should do a B12 engine flush.
A lot of flush lore is to get it up to operating temp, drive it for 5-15 mins, etc, etc, however you should do it differently.
The thing is, B12 will flash off once engine/oil temp starts to get close to 200f. So the more times you can run the engine and get the oil circulating with the B12 still in suspension through the valves, timing, gallerys, etc, the more cleaning you will get.
Hence, you want to only run it for 2-3 mins, and well before it gets to operating temp shut it down and let it cool for an hour or two.
Then repeat that 2/3/4 times if you can.
I would then do an oil/filter change, and run some $20 Walmart Supertech Full Synthetic in it around town that day and then do a final oil/filter change with your preferred oil.
While the first oil change will come out pleasingly disgusting looking, its kind of revolting when you do that 2nd oil change and see that there is still a ton of gunk coming out of what you'd have expected to be nice and clean.
Seriously, its kind of thought provoking initially and almost counter-intuitive. But the gunk don't lie.
Did you add any lubricant to the piston walls after the soak?
Smart idea
That is a good idea. But you have to be pretty smart when you do it, as even just a little too much oil in the cylinder can cause a hydro-lock or bent valves etc.
I would dribble a teaspoon of oil in each hole and then let it blow out onto cloth as in the video with the fuel pump fuse out for several times before putting in the plugs.
In most situations there is going to be so minimal wear if any, that its almost not worth the additional risk unless you're willing to really learn about hydro-lock or more experienced than the average joe.
Ok,thanks
@@boots7859why wouldn’t you just hand turn the engine several times to distribute the oil?
Updated?
I have a 2013 A5 running through 1qt every 5-600 miles. Do you have to disable any fuses during this process? Or just as long as the spark plugs are out im good?
Nothing to disable you can just remove the spark plugs and you’ll be fine.
Yes, a fluid that repairs ur burnt piston rings, and add the missing surface from the engine block after 400.000km-s 🤣😂👌👌👌
It's not going to fix burnt piston rings. It is meant to fix STUCK oil rings, everything these days is made for fuel economy, so the Oil rings are not as good as in older vehicles. This will remove the carbon that is causing the oil rings to stick and cause that blow by of oil.
Thanks sir ,how long driving the car with b12 in crank case after finish the process?
Not long, maybe 5-10 minutes. Most of it will evaporate by the time you drive 5 minutes.
When you go to “crank the motor” without spark plugs to flush out the solution- are you turning on the car?
Yep, cranking as if you’re starting the car.
How many times and at what hourly intervals do I add the Berrymans? Approximately much do I turn the crankshaft clockwise each interval. BTW, the Audi A4 is burning 1 quart every 450 miles.
I would check every 4-6 hours to confirm you have solution in each cylinder. There’s no real time period; each motor will be different on how fast the solution will creep past the rings.
The goal is to simply have solution in there for an extended period of time for a good soak.
I think it will solve your issue. Seems crazy, but it works.
This works!!!
@bofbolts what if I had liquid in them for a good 48hrs but weren't able to hand crank the motor thru process? but I Did Remove a Lot of carbon. put New plugs & oilin after Dozens of × vacuuming & blowing Air. should I be OK? & it didn't start yet , but I didn't go crazy cranking it over. Plse Lmk. & thnx
Would doing this procedure on a high mileage 2.0t? Approx 187k miles
Yes it should work, definitely recommend.
@@bofbolts
I didnt wait for the engine to cool down enough. Smh,
Its boiling in cylinder one.
Hope it does not damage it.
Will wait for it to cool down before i do the rest
@@gilbertvazquez7341 Yeah, don't pull the plugs on a hot engine if possible. Can't see any way an ounce or so of ambient temp light hydrocarbon would be a problem for the cylinder though. It'll probably just boil off in a min or two.
Anyone know anywhere you can buy this in Europe or a US company that will ship it to Europe?
In Europe there is another brand that is awesome. I don’t remember the name but can look it up if you still need it.
Just found it. And it works awesome there. Have some friends owning a shop and have done it on multiple cars with great success rate. Here it is. Пенная раскоксовка двигателя Complex LAVR, 400 мл / Ln2510
God thats long winded just put forte in my 22 yr old bmw no removing shit just straight in crank took about 3 days but amazing results no nasty smoke passed emissions no probs
@@AndySullivan-qu9ir does your bmw have an Audi 2.0 motor in it with a known issue with clogged oil returns lol? Diff motor dude
@@bofbolts ffsk ye of course it duz duh
@@bofbolts scrap it anything audi is gona cost u a bodypart to fix
Any feedback for this on the Audi v6 engines?
I also wonder. I’d like to try it on one of my 2015 A6 3.0T with 150k miles as it started using about a quart every 1600-1800 miles but I wonder if Valvoline Restore and Protect oil would be just as effective. Granted would have to run 5w-30 as they don’t have 5w-40 but the results seem to be really promising.
Did you do an updated video yet?
Thanks
No video, but updates In description! Huge success.
@@bofbolts Good to hear. Unfortunately my Murano V6 requires one to remove the intake manifold and assorted junk to get to the plugs.... 170K and burns about 1-1.5q for 3K OCI, so hoping its just clogged oil rings and not bore ovaled out.
Waiting for an update :( I have an Audi a5 burning around 2 quarts every 500 miles
Updates in in the description :) This really works - on month 3 with 5000+ KM's with 0 oil consumption.
Why are you or anyone with any vehicle in a similar situation waiting? This has been a known fix for decades among most mechanics and their crowd. This is seriously about the only thing shy of an engine pull/tear down thats going to address a oil burning clogged oil control ring issue.
Worst thing might be that you have to do this a couple times, as if it took years to build up to a problem a 1-and-done might not be realistic. Worst case if there is no resolution after 2x is you now know its probably not a simple clogged oil control ring issue.
4000 miles and I now consumed only 1/2 liter
How do you manually turn the engine to get all cylinders somewhat even?
You need to manually turn the motor over using a 24mm socket and a breaker bar - at the front of the engine you’ll find the crank pulley and turn that by hand.
How do people watch a video like this and still have questions like this? He told you at 2:00 that you need a socket to spin the crank shaft, and mentioned it again after refilling. And he even gave you a size for this model car, 24mm.
I have a Audi a4 all road 2015 with 100k miles, I bought it 2 weeks ago, oil level was at max and now 2 weeks later and 1k miles later, oil level is at half. Is it normal and doing a soak would be a good idea ?
More than likely this procedure will solve your issue.
I despise cro'oks who knowingly sell vehicles with problems without disclosing. Karma will catch up to them.
@@florenbaron7111 Same experience here! it was the dealer!
Anybody tried it in diesel ea288?
I searched and found somewhere that 2012 Audi Q5 CAEB should use NGK heat range 6 ; and NGK 7 for 2013 and later
Possibly, I'm not 100% certain. The part # I listed for the plugs are what our software indicates for this VIN.
Who can help me this package...? 🙏
how's it looking, 4 months in?
It’s perfect, no oil consumption!
Updates in the description 👍
@@bofbolts cool beans. Yeah I saw the 1 & 2 month updates.
I have four 2.0TSI's and one 3.0TFSI SC in my driveway; they all eat oil like a fat kid with a fistful of Snickers..
This is intriguing.
Does this ruin seals
It shouldn’t - there’s been no evidence of that. I certainly would change your oil shortly after the procedure because I wouldn’t want to run that long.
This works!!!
@@bofboltswhy wouldn’t you change oil before starting the car? Any reason? I would be inclined to change it right away…?
is it working for honda engine ?
Yes, same logic!
I’d try to run Valvoline restore and protect 0w-20 oil for your Honda. Look it up they claim amazing results.
Has anyone done this on the 2L TDI diesel engine??? Mine just getting 600k to one litre 😢😢😢
It would work on a TDI but you’ve prob got other sources of oil guzzling - EGR delete if you haven’t already done that!
@@bofbolts the EGR just recirculates the exhaust gasses tho. I’ve had it out and it cleaned. I don’t think it would cause that kind of major issues because it will just chock the engine when clogged. I am going to give the engine a good scrub and make sure any oil leaks are ruled out. I’ll do a compression test also.
No puddle under the car at all so it must be burning. The amount of oil without any blue smoke is astonishing.
I’ll will give this a go and give an update I couldn’t see anyone saying they have done it on a tdi.
Anyone swooped out the pistons for upgraded ones? If so could they suggest the best upgraded ones if all else fails.
All good, however considering the cost of any engine not to mention an import, seems penny-wise and pound foolish.
You know there is a ton of carbon thats been removed from the tops of the pistons, and hopefully un-plugged the rings.
Watch some of I Do Cars or SpeedKar99 to see how contaminated oil can so easily wreck bearings, journals and caps.
I have to do similar to an 06 Murano 3.5, and plan to do the soak, let it idle to operating temp, then an oil change with $20 Supertech full synthetic.
Run it hard a few times/days, and then final oil change.
Having a massive amount of free carbon shooting around in the top end while running significantly diluted oil at high RPM is just asking for unnecessary permanent damage.
This is true - and I mention in my video to do a short drive for 5 minutes and oil change right after. Oil change right away is definitely important as you indicated.
When an engine is burning a quart of oil every tank of gas, there isn’t much to lose by doing this!
@@CarsandCoding Where did anyone say this was not worth doing. Point is you've got a can or two or maybe even three sitting in your oil now, and your oil viscosity is probably down from an average 30 weight to a 20 or possibly a 10.
Considering you can get Supertech Full Synthetic and filter for $25, it would be a lot easier on your bearings, valve train, timing system to dump the very thin oil with either just an oil change or oil/filter, then do some spirited Italian Tune-up driving and another oil/filter change again.
Its a difference of 1 oil/filter change$25, but much, much lower risk of going from a simply carboned up ring situation to a scored bearings and journals, timing, etc.
Just depends on what the vehicle is worth to someone, and never hurts to minimize risk.
Great video.
PISTON RINGS NEED REPLACING AFTER 100’000 MILES. 😂😂😂😂
After all that cleaning.. how’s the compression compared to the service manual rating ??? 😅
She runs and drives and burns GAS not oil - that’s all we care about 😂😂
Why would the compression be worse after this?
B-12 is basically simple stoopid Laquer thinner.
IF you don't want to pay through the Nose for B-12.
Beyond that What Level of Foolish does it take to BUY VW product ?
THANK YOU! I recently did the piston soak on my 2012 Audi Q5 and documented my steps here: czcams.com/video/o3JUb2OL1hY/video.html
Как доставить это в Украину?
Пенная раскоксовка двигателя Complex LAVR, 400 мл / Ln2510 прекрасное средство.
Gumout vs
I just did this to my Toyota now there's metal shavings in the oil
Uhhhh you got other issues dude. This did not cause those metal shavings....
Did you drive your car with B-12 in it before changing oil?
And this shouldnt be in yt without big warning signs, even a drop to skin is deathly and product is in court in many states coz of this stuff causing leukemia etc
You’re definitely right - and the same goes for most other industrial / automotive products like brake cleaner, lubricants, etc. Don’t forget household cleaners, windex, degreaser….most off the shelf products are toxic.
No, I lived in CA for 20 years and everything, I mean everything has a warning label on it saying it causes cancer. The end result if absolutely no one pays attention to it because its become so common. The can have a label that identified the dangers already, and the fact is that govt and warning labels will never protect everyone from everything in life.
This stuff is arguably as bad as brake cleaners and similar, and people who are dumb or not inclined to read directions are always going to be so. Just had to educate my BIL that using a little brake cleaner to get tough grime off his hands was actually really stupid. He's not alone, and those warnings are already in place...
Folks like you are why even today we see people riding in their cars or walking at the park with masks on.
Are you from California?! 😂😂😂 And it’s “deadly” not “deathly”… Breathing the smog laden air can also give you cancer… what a Karen