Hello from France John! Thanks for your time and your good advices ! Such a pleasure to see you showing us this great classic-looking 3 points lighting. See you in the next one :)
this looks like an amazing video. cant wait to watch it. looking for your c-stand video tho. how to setup it up. saved this one and will come back to it.
It would also be very enlightening to see side by side the fully lit picture with one with just the key, than with key and fill, and with one with key and rim - to not only see what each light is doing, but also what difference it makes.
fantastic breakdown and the final looks wonderful! I truly appreciate that you include the different light ratios off the main/key! This is the absolute needed steps to understand what each light is doing - the individual shots showing each light alone as well… I find it annoying that many “teachers” do vids like this minus all the important info breakdown, they show an image, the bts light positions only and then give the camera model/lens used and the 1 & only main f/stop it was shot at 🙄🥱which pretty much tells/shows nothing as to all the important elements at work to bring it all together for the final image - i understand many do this and then sell learning tutorials on the side but often many still do not mention light’g ratios beyond the key light 🤦🏻♀️ Your channel is why i want to get into one of your lighting workshops someday when you are in my area!! Thank you for all your efforts and sharing your knowledge John 🙏🏼🙏🏼 The experimenting / learning time has been greatly reduced for me and i can shoot at any f/stop as Key and adjust accordingly with your ratios and or tweak as per my desired look 👍🏼👍🏼
Thank you so much Andrea. I suspect many people aren't using a meter and just winging it, so they can't share the crucial info people need..Or maybe were theyre sharing the input power of the flashes, which is not very helpful either.
@@JohnGress aaah ha moment💡!! yes, that possibility of photogs that do not use light meters skipped my thought entirely, good point. Catch ya next vid 😀
Excellent! Thank you for having the fill light by the camera, and not opposite the main light, as so many instructors teach - unless you just did it because of the small space. hehe. I like how you leave in your misspeaks and corrections, rather than editing and re-doing the shot. The hair light was very subtle, but what a difference it made! Can you help me with something? There was a brand of lighting that was popular with pros, that went out of business a year or so ago (maybe up to 4 years). Could you please tell me the name of that brand? Thanks!
GREAT as usually! Thank you for your time you are spending with whole yours teaching.....today you change my comfortability of photoshooting because of your seconic! :-) I'm using L-358....let's say was using...I order L-478 for elinchrom today :-) !!! So thank you again. Best regards Jan (please be patient with my english...I'm from Czech republic, so I can spek česky very well but english ?? :-)))
Thanks! You could flag it so the camera cant see it and or use a lens hood. While I did experience flare with cheap filters and consumer grade and older lenses, it hasn't been an issue with modern professional lenses.
Fantastic video John! Truly appreciate your educational content. On the 4 point lighting, how far is the main, fill, kicker and hair light modifier distance from the model? Thank you!
Thanks Kevin! About as close as possible. The main is just out of the frame. The fill is about 6' / 2m. The kicker is about 3'/1m and the hair is maybe 16" / 40cm.
Given how little it affected the outcome, I'd add a hair light before I'd add an edge light. Or perhaps combine the two by positioning the hair light a little more camera tight.
Hello John. Is there a document with light setups and the different aperture values for each light type? How do I know that the kicker needs more power than the fill light? Sure try but where do the basics come from?
Hi Markus, you can find information like that in my Lighting Handbook and Intro to lighting guide. johngress.com/lightinghandbooks/ The balance between the lights is really a matter of taste. Most of the time people are going to want to use fill to preserve shadow details. Because the light doesn't need to be that pronounced, it doesn't really need to be very bright. Whereas a kicker needs to make an impression on the viewer and be more present int he image, so it needs to be a little brighter. However, there are situations where they may be equal or the fill could be brighter and that's where personal taste or art direction comes in. I hope that helps!
@@JohnGress Thank you John. I hope you do another discount promotion soon. Then I buy it. Until then, I'll try to implement your tips from the videos. Many regards from Germany
I measure my lights separately to taste. Then I measure them all together, which often gives me a value higher than my working aperture. I have never heard any photographer adressing this issue. How would you solve it?
I wouldn't If I have a main and a fill I always measure the main and set my camera to those settings. I figure when the fill is added it will just boost my exposure a little, I would rather pull a RAW file down a little in post than pull it up. However, if I look at my screen after firing all the lights and it's too bright then I will stop down.
Hi Paul. Sorry I didn't realize this video had a graphic showing the $25 introductory price from last month. Since you pointed it out, I will drop the price back down to $25 this week. Just visit johngress.com/lightinghandbooks/ to find the updated lower price. =)
Great demo John! I always appreciate it when you show each light in isolation, then all together 👍
Glad you enjoyed it More to come!
Hello from France John! Thanks for your time and your good advices !
Such a pleasure to see you showing us this great classic-looking 3 points lighting.
See you in the next one :)
Merci beaucoup Stéphane! Pas de problemme! Å bientôt!
Thank you so much!
Thank you!!
Exceptional as always! Thank you John.
Thanks again!
Thank you John 🤙
Thank you!
I need to start using my light meter too. This video is a good refresher. Almost forgot how to use it :))
You should! I used an L-308 for years but when I found out this one could adjust the lights I was sold!
Love this video and it really help me to understand hot to light a subject like this
Thank great to hear! Thanks Duke!
Thank u good brother
No problem. Thanks!
Outstanding tutorial, John - thank you. 😄🇦🇺🦘
Glad you enjoyed it! Thank you!
Thank you John! greetings from istanbul 🙋🏽♂️
Hello there! My pleasure!
Straight up solid gold info from the Windy City. Great video tutorial!
Thanks Pete! You're the best!
Thanks for the class ! Hugs from Brazil.
Glad it was helpful! Muito obrigado!
Great video as always, looking forward to seeing you at Imaging USA 2022!
Thanks! Cya soon!
this looks like an amazing video. cant wait to watch it. looking for your c-stand video tho. how to setup it up. saved this one and will come back to it.
Thank you so much!
Awesome stuff. I'll have to practice this next week.
Thanks! I’m looking forward to seeing the results!
It would also be very enlightening to see side by side the fully lit picture with one with just the key, than with key and fill, and with one with key and rim - to not only see what each light is doing, but also what difference it makes.
Thanks I’ll consider that moving forward.
fantastic breakdown and the final looks wonderful! I truly appreciate that you include the different light ratios off the main/key! This is the absolute needed steps to understand what each light is doing - the individual shots showing each light alone as well… I find it annoying that many “teachers” do vids like this minus all the important info breakdown, they show an image, the bts light positions only and then give the camera model/lens used and the 1 & only main f/stop it was shot at 🙄🥱which pretty much tells/shows nothing as to all the important elements at work to bring it all together for the final image - i understand many do this and then sell learning tutorials on the side but often many still do not mention light’g ratios beyond the key light 🤦🏻♀️ Your channel is why i want to get into one of your lighting workshops someday when you are in my area!! Thank you for all your efforts and sharing your knowledge John 🙏🏼🙏🏼
The experimenting / learning time has been greatly reduced for me and i can shoot at any f/stop as Key and adjust accordingly with your ratios and or tweak as per my desired look 👍🏼👍🏼
Thank you so much Andrea. I suspect many people aren't using a meter and just winging it, so they can't share the crucial info people need..Or maybe were theyre sharing the input power of the flashes, which is not very helpful either.
It would be great to have you attend some day!
@@JohnGress aaah ha moment💡!! yes, that possibility of photogs that do not use light meters skipped my thought entirely, good point. Catch ya next vid 😀
thanks John!
Thank you!
It would be amazing have a video about feathered light. Thank you so much for all these info! Greetings from Medellín Colombia
Thank you so much! I have some tutorials about this on my website johngress.com/academy/
Great video!
Thanks! Glad you enjoyed it
Excellent! Thank you for having the fill light by the camera, and not opposite the main light, as so many instructors teach - unless you just did it because of the small space. hehe. I like how you leave in your misspeaks and corrections, rather than editing and re-doing the shot. The hair light was very subtle, but what a difference it made! Can you help me with something? There was a brand of lighting that was popular with pros, that went out of business a year or so ago (maybe up to 4 years). Could you please tell me the name of that brand? Thanks!
Thanks Miley! It was probably Bowens, Dynalite or Speedotron.
Also I normally fill from the front.
@@JohnGress Thanks. I found it - Calumet (from Chicago, by the way), which was owned by the same company that owned Bowens - both good products.
@@JohnGress I just contacted you through your website. You might get a kick out of it.
GREAT as usually! Thank you for your time you are spending with whole yours teaching.....today you change my comfortability of photoshooting because of your seconic! :-) I'm using L-358....let's say was using...I order L-478 for elinchrom today :-) !!! So thank you again. Best regards Jan (please be patient with my english...I'm from Czech republic, so I can spek česky very well but english ?? :-)))
Thanks Jan! You did very well. I used an L-308 for years but when I found out this one could adjust the lights I ordered it right away.
@@JohnGress ...and today I bought your lighting book vol. 1...just for inspiration and support your work ! 😉 Take care Jan
@@jankolman9147 Thanks Jan! I really appreciate it!
Thank u
You're welcome!
great informative video. how do you prevent lens flare/loss of contrast from the kicker light?
Thanks! You could flag it so the camera cant see it and or use a lens hood. While I did experience flare with cheap filters and consumer grade and older lenses, it hasn't been an issue with modern professional lenses.
Fantastic video John! Truly appreciate your educational content. On the 4 point lighting, how far is the main, fill, kicker and hair light modifier distance from the model? Thank you!
Thanks Kevin! About as close as possible. The main is just out of the frame. The fill is about 6' / 2m. The kicker is about 3'/1m and the hair is maybe 16" / 40cm.
@@JohnGress Thank you for the response!
Given how little it affected the outcome, I'd add a hair light before I'd add an edge light. Or perhaps combine the two by positioning the hair light a little more camera tight.
Hello John.
Is there a document with light setups and the different aperture values for each light type?
How do I know that the kicker needs more power than the fill light?
Sure try but where do the basics come from?
Hi Markus, you can find information like that in my Lighting Handbook and Intro to lighting guide. johngress.com/lightinghandbooks/
The balance between the lights is really a matter of taste. Most of the time people are going to want to use fill to preserve shadow details. Because the light doesn't need to be that pronounced, it doesn't really need to be very bright. Whereas a kicker needs to make an impression on the viewer and be more present int he image, so it needs to be a little brighter. However, there are situations where they may be equal or the fill could be brighter and that's where personal taste or art direction comes in.
I hope that helps!
@@JohnGress Thank you John.
I hope you do another discount promotion soon.
Then I buy it.
Until then, I'll try to implement your tips from the videos.
Many regards from Germany
Hey John - question - when you’re adjusting to meter at the F stop, are you turning the power on the light down or up?
Is there a particular time stamp?
You should do a video on shooting shadow-side.
Can you explain more?
I measure my lights separately to taste. Then I measure them all together, which often gives me a value higher than my working aperture. I have never heard any photographer adressing this issue. How would you solve it?
I wouldn't If I have a main and a fill I always measure the main and set my camera to those settings. I figure when the fill is added it will just boost my exposure a little, I would rather pull a RAW file down a little in post than pull it up. However, if I look at my screen after firing all the lights and it's too bright then I will stop down.
I’m got a little confused for the fill light, it’s at 2.8 but the keylight is at 8. How come it is not more powerful than the key?
Try key is the brightest light and slightly fills in the shadows.
I would like to buy your guide but it still shows at $50.
Hi Paul. Sorry I didn't realize this video had a graphic showing the $25 introductory price from last month. Since you pointed it out, I will drop the price back down to $25 this week. Just visit johngress.com/lightinghandbooks/ to find the updated lower price. =)
@@JohnGress Thank you John. I’ll be getting it today.
@@JohnGress Hi John, is this still available at 25 dollar price?
@@kenbrown344 Hi Ken, unfortunately the sale period has ended.
@@JohnGress ah never mind was worth an ask.