Erg mode is determined by the app and which kind of workout you choose, such as just normal “zwifting” that’s SIM mode, if you choose a workout that puts it in ERG mode
Wait, the Click (or Play controller) allows you to adjust resistance in ERG mode? That's pretty cool and allows you to follow your own ad hoc structured workout based on how you're feeling and not according to some predetermined workout. What are the increments?
I have this trainer and virtual shifter (Zwift Click), the first Zwift Click I got sent was broken or just not working properly. Once Zwift sent me a replacement one it worked like a champ. Virtual gear shifting feels much cleaner than a traditional cassette. Very much recommended after setup correctly with a working Zwift Click remote.
Love this concept. I've been wanting to upgrade my dumb kinetic wheel on trainer to something more advanced, but I still want my wife to be able to use her 8 speed bike with Zwift, with minimal hassle swapping between our bikes. Seems this is a great option (ignoring rollers/full bike trainers) that will enable me to do that.
I have a Stages SB20 that works this way and this kind of shifting setup is the way to go indoors. One other benefit: even the cheapest singlespeed with work once you get the chainline and tension right.
Wow, what a cool idea. When I first got my hub I had issues lining it up with my 10 speed bike. I had to buy matching cassettes and different sized spacers and really play around with it to get it to line up. I imagine I wasn't the only one who had issues. Nice job on Zwifts part. At that price point I might get myself one.
Yeah Wahoo and Zwift works together on this I wonder if you can build a ble device that ypu connect the elite trainer too and this says its a wahoo trainer just to be able to use it.
When you think about it gear ratios simply determine how much the rear wheel (or in this case freewheel) turns for each full crank revolution, so a 1:1 or say 30 front : 30 rear gear combo means that the wheel (or freewheel) makes one fully revolution for every crank revolution, and a 2:1 or say 40 front : 20 rear gear combo means that for every full crank revolution the rear makes 2 revolutions. And the point isn't so much to make you go faster (although shifting up does make it possible for you to go faster without spinning out) but to make it easier to handle varying terrain, or to match the gears to the terrain so that you can spin at a rate and at a power output level that's comfortable for you. Given this, it should be really simple for any smart trainer to be able to figure out at what rate to turn the flywheel based on the cadence, for the selected gear (a gear really being a gear ratio between the chain ring and rear cog currently in use), regardless of the current "terrain" or resistance level. This is assuming of course that there's a cadence sensor on the cranks and it's not estimating the cadence, and if not then the calculations get a bit more involved but it's still doable. What I'm still not understanding is why the Hub One upgrade kit comes with a freehub body that you swap out the existing freehub on the Hub Classic for so you can use the Zwift Hub. What is it about the older freehub that prevents this given that it accepts standard Shimano cassettes?
Great video! Thanks for the review and walkthrough. Didn't know virtual shifting also works with the Hub Classic! Also, I have a question, since the winter is coming and I want to get to indoor riding. Anyone else reading this, feel free to drop your opinion. I have a Giant Propel Advanced SL2 from the previous generation(s), like 2016 or so. An aero bike with aero gears (10-speed Ultegra Di2) which is perfectly fine for the very flat Netherlands. But when I was on holiday in the mountains with friends, I struggled on steeper sections with about 50-60 cadence whereas friends could happily do 80+ cadence on the steepest sections. Here comes the question: virtual shift only works on Zwift game itself, so if I order the Hub Classic 10-speed, I will firstly just have the 11-28 cassette (which is the same as currently on my bike so no changing in that, with 53-39 in front) which I probably will struggle with in long, steep sections. Also, without the virtual shifting, I can also pair it with other training software outside of Zwift and shift, right? On the other hand, if I already know that I want a wider range of gears for my indoor riding, why not buy the Hub One immediately and save money, since 1 year of Zwift is included anyway? Both Classic and One can be interchanged (by buying controllers, or putting on a cassette). What is your opinion? I will use the indoor trainer with only one bike currently.
I think this virtual shifting is a great option and should be adopted by other smarttrainer brands like Garmin and Wahoo. Do the click controller and/or zwift controllers allow for fast shifting (e.g. press and hold for multiple shifts) or only a single gear change per click?
This looks interesting. I have only one bike, hardtail mtb with 12 speed cassette and usually microspline is not found on smart trainers. This solves a lot of issues, potentially. Will it work work boost, 148 spacing? And does this works only on Zwift platform, or it can be used with other ones? Great video Des, as usual :)
Great video. Had my first ride tonight on my retro fit from original Zwift Hub. Click kept dropping in and out. It was maddening. Very disappointed. Will try some fixes tomorrow.
Ideal! Was debating trading in my road for a gravel bike with a 1x up front and with this now I wont need to worry about spinning/ gearing out while on a trainer. Real question how does the incline slide bar react with this hub? I usally set mine to 65% because my current rear cog is a 11speed 10-25 shimano and im unable to climb witrh it maxed.
If you mean trainer difficulty it works as normal 50% makes 10% grade feel like 5 Just leave the trainer difficulty on max you have a smallest virtual gear of about 30/40 and if you can’t climb with that tiny gear then their is no helping you I got the cog because I’m on 11/28 cassette at 100kg only way up the alp without grinding at 40 cadence and destroying my knees was trainer difficulty at about 40 percent now I can spin up it 75 cadence with max trainer difficulty
Thanks for the video. Really clever and our family bike situation looks made for something like this (campagnolo and shimano)! Is it quiet (one of the family requirements)? Thanks
You mentioned it is compatible with a 7 spd cassette. I have a 7 spd on right now, but Zwift states it is incompatible with the Zwift Cog. I use a spacer to make it work now, would that not work with the Zwift Cog?
Have you found the answer? I have the same situation. Also, I wonder If It will be compatible with road bike based on non thru-axles mechanism (just an old, classic steel frame).
Discovering mine! Received it 2 days ago and is my very first indoor setup. I keep it on my small chainring so far. Putting it on the bigger one causes a light misalignment and noise. A bit disturbing not using the bigger chainring, but if I understand correctly ?!, it finally does not matter as the system does simulate all gears no matter the size of your chainrings?! Seems crazy magic!
What a great idea. As it is essentially a single speed hub I would expect it to be quite robust. Any idea on the life span of the sprocket and can it be changed without buying a whole new unit?
du kannst das Ritzel tauschen. Ich hatte einen Wahoo mit einem rennrad, dass ich nur Indoor verwendet habe. Da nützt sich somit auch nichts ab. Die Kette und Ritzel waren nach drei Jahren immer noch neu
I think I heard you say the Zwift Hub One is compatible with a 7 -12 cassette. Have you tried the 7 speed cassette? Zwift says the hub one is compatible with 8 - 12.
What about thru-axle vs. drop axel. Does it handle carbon fiber thru-axles? And, if it does, will you need a longer carbon thru-axel than is typically run on the bike with a cassette?
I was just talking about this with a buddy the other day... wouldn't it be nice to have a singlespeed, but you couldn't use it in freeride mode. I have to imagine Wahoo will have some answer to this in the future... hopefully via software and a small remote!
Hi there! Thanks for these useful explanations you had, first of all. I don't have enough time to read all the comments, therefore forgive me, if this has already been asked; was there any issue while shifting (mostly highest and lowest shifts) like touching noise or something on the COG? Let me know and direct me, if you've already replied it on another comment :) Thanks in advance. Have a nice ride to you all, guys!
Is there anything to say about durability? I'm guessing its a sturdy cog since it doesnt require any special shaping to allow for shifting, correct? What about the material?
Is it more silent? Chain is always straight, so should give less chain noise?... I wonder if you can install this cog on a Wahoo Kickr, the dimensions are probably equal to a cassette, so hardware side should work, but the software...?
I have ordered an Zwift Hub One , I installed him , all good except one issues: he keep disconnecting every 20 seconds. Did someone encountered thsi problem ? I connected the Hub to a fresh zwift installed on a clean laptop, I paired on BLE on laptop both Hub and Click . I paired on BLE on Zwift , everything fine . Then I tried to pedal and ..surprise , he start disconnect and connect on 30 sec interval. A situation is this : I runned Zwift on a smartphone (Samsung A 52) and connect the Hub and Click and runs very well , smoothly I can say . Why it cant be run on Laptop+ win 10 ???
I like the idea but just wondering if the clicker connects directly to the trainer or Zwift. My point being would this trainer work without a connection to Zwift and still do virtual shifting
does this allow you to control the resistance without having zwift app open? currently I use jetblack app in resistance mode then increase resistance in the app then shift. Just wondering if the zwift app must be running for this to work. thanks
Does anyone know if this "cog and click" kit would work with the Jet Black Volt as the Hub is essentially that? IE would the click from the controller>game>hub work with controller>game>volt??? Or is the software specific to run the hub only?
Due to the way resistance is produced in a flywheel-based trainer you will notice that transitions between different resistances (especially noticable if you're doing structured workouts in erg mode) will feel way more consistent and smooth if you are in a smaller gear (because the flywheel speed is not as high). Also it can make sense to wear the chainring more evenly if you are riding mostly small ring inside and mostly big ring outside :) Like you said chainline also relevant, because of the first point I want to be in a lower gear, so to keep the chainline straight when I'm most of the way up on the casette smaller ring is also the way to go. But the first argument is by far the biggest reason I'm mostly in the small ring indoors.
It does but it may affect the gear ratio. With the 24 virtual speeds there really shouldn’t be a need to shift with physical gears once you start riding
There’s no real word on timing though so I wouldn’t expect this to be a near term thing, plus it’s then up to the manufacturer to implement functionality
One thing I forgot to include in the video is that in ERG mode, the Click adjusts resistance vs “shifting”
How do you turn ERG mode on/off with Zwift Hub? Or is it all done with the clicker?
Erg mode is determined by the app and which kind of workout you choose, such as just normal “zwifting” that’s SIM mode, if you choose a workout that puts it in ERG mode
Wait, the Click (or Play controller) allows you to adjust resistance in ERG mode? That's pretty cool and allows you to follow your own ad hoc structured workout based on how you're feeling and not according to some predetermined workout. What are the increments?
ZWIFT hub just got better than my Tacx flux. Being able to put my 12 or 11 speed bike on without changing any hardware would be dope!
I love this idea, zero grear maintenance on my turbo bike
I have this trainer and virtual shifter (Zwift Click), the first Zwift Click I got sent was broken or just not working properly. Once Zwift sent me a replacement one it worked like a champ. Virtual gear shifting feels much cleaner than a traditional cassette. Very much recommended after setup correctly with a working Zwift Click remote.
Love this concept. I've been wanting to upgrade my dumb kinetic wheel on trainer to something more advanced, but I still want my wife to be able to use her 8 speed bike with Zwift, with minimal hassle swapping between our bikes. Seems this is a great option (ignoring rollers/full bike trainers) that will enable me to do that.
I have a Stages SB20 that works this way and this kind of shifting setup is the way to go indoors. One other benefit: even the cheapest singlespeed with work once you get the chainline and tension right.
Except you can’t attach a single speed with horizontal dropouts
Wow, what a cool idea. When I first got my hub I had issues lining it up with my 10 speed bike. I had to buy matching cassettes and different sized spacers and really play around with it to get it to line up. I imagine I wasn't the only one who had issues. Nice job on Zwifts part. At that price point I might get myself one.
Yes, I had the same issue with my 9 and 10 speed bikes. The included spacer seemed to be the wrong width.
@@ItimDave yeah I actually had to put a thicker spacer on my bike and I have 3 spacers on the hub in order for it to line up.
Would be nice if the functionality will eventually expand to other trainers as long as you're using Zwift Play controller
If wahoo does it first, it really shows both companies are working together. Funding themselves together.
Yeah Wahoo and Zwift works together on this I wonder if you can build a ble device that ypu connect the elite trainer too and this says its a wahoo trainer just to be able to use it.
When you think about it gear ratios simply determine how much the rear wheel (or in this case freewheel) turns for each full crank revolution, so a 1:1 or say 30 front : 30 rear gear combo means that the wheel (or freewheel) makes one fully revolution for every crank revolution, and a 2:1 or say 40 front : 20 rear gear combo means that for every full crank revolution the rear makes 2 revolutions.
And the point isn't so much to make you go faster (although shifting up does make it possible for you to go faster without spinning out) but to make it easier to handle varying terrain, or to match the gears to the terrain so that you can spin at a rate and at a power output level that's comfortable for you.
Given this, it should be really simple for any smart trainer to be able to figure out at what rate to turn the flywheel based on the cadence, for the selected gear (a gear really being a gear ratio between the chain ring and rear cog currently in use), regardless of the current "terrain" or resistance level. This is assuming of course that there's a cadence sensor on the cranks and it's not estimating the cadence, and if not then the calculations get a bit more involved but it's still doable.
What I'm still not understanding is why the Hub One upgrade kit comes with a freehub body that you swap out the existing freehub on the Hub Classic for so you can use the Zwift Hub. What is it about the older freehub that prevents this given that it accepts standard Shimano cassettes?
digging the Niner shirt. From a former Fort Collins resident
Represent! 🙌
Great video! Thanks for the review and walkthrough. Didn't know virtual shifting also works with the Hub Classic!
Also, I have a question, since the winter is coming and I want to get to indoor riding. Anyone else reading this, feel free to drop your opinion.
I have a Giant Propel Advanced SL2 from the previous generation(s), like 2016 or so. An aero bike with aero gears (10-speed Ultegra Di2) which is perfectly fine for the very flat Netherlands. But when I was on holiday in the mountains with friends, I struggled on steeper sections with about 50-60 cadence whereas friends could happily do 80+ cadence on the steepest sections.
Here comes the question: virtual shift only works on Zwift game itself, so if I order the Hub Classic 10-speed, I will firstly just have the 11-28 cassette (which is the same as currently on my bike so no changing in that, with 53-39 in front) which I probably will struggle with in long, steep sections. Also, without the virtual shifting, I can also pair it with other training software outside of Zwift and shift, right?
On the other hand, if I already know that I want a wider range of gears for my indoor riding, why not buy the Hub One immediately and save money, since 1 year of Zwift is included anyway? Both Classic and One can be interchanged (by buying controllers, or putting on a cassette). What is your opinion? I will use the indoor trainer with only one bike currently.
This is really really smart.
This looks brilliant, really clever from Zwift. Thanks for the video!
Good review mate. How loud is it (db’s)? Is it compatible with the SRAM flat top chain?
Is the SRAM Flat Top Chain at least compatible with the One?
I think this virtual shifting is a great option and should be adopted by other smarttrainer brands like Garmin and Wahoo. Do the click controller and/or zwift controllers allow for fast shifting (e.g. press and hold for multiple shifts) or only a single gear change per click?
It does. Keep it pressed and it will change multiple virtual gears :)
Excellent presentation, very smooth pedal style too. What is your crank length here 165mm ?
172.5 for my road bike, 175 for MTB - I know that's long ;) Thanks!
This looks interesting. I have only one bike, hardtail mtb with 12 speed cassette and usually microspline is not found on smart trainers. This solves a lot of issues, potentially. Will it work work boost, 148 spacing? And does this works only on Zwift platform, or it can be used with other ones? Great video Des, as usual :)
Great video. Had my first ride tonight on my retro fit from original Zwift Hub. Click kept dropping in and out. It was maddening. Very disappointed. Will try some fixes tomorrow.
One cog, multiple bikes? What about mixing shimano and sram chains on this cog? Will this mess up the cog or your chain after a while?
Ideal! Was debating trading in my road for a gravel bike with a 1x up front and with this now I wont need to worry about spinning/ gearing out while on a trainer.
Real question how does the incline slide bar react with this hub? I usally set mine to 65% because my current rear cog is a 11speed 10-25 shimano and im unable to climb witrh it maxed.
If you mean trainer difficulty it works as normal 50% makes 10% grade feel like 5
Just leave the trainer difficulty on max you have a smallest virtual gear of about 30/40 and if you can’t climb with that tiny gear then their is no helping you
I got the cog because I’m on 11/28 cassette at 100kg only way up the alp without grinding at 40 cadence and destroying my knees was trainer difficulty at about 40 percent now I can spin up it 75 cadence with max trainer difficulty
Thanks for the video. Really clever and our family bike situation looks made for something like this (campagnolo and shimano)! Is it quiet (one of the family requirements)? Thanks
You mentioned it is compatible with a 7 spd cassette. I have a 7 spd on right now, but Zwift states it is incompatible with the Zwift Cog. I use a spacer to make it work now, would that not work with the Zwift Cog?
Have you found the answer? I have the same situation. Also, I wonder If It will be compatible with road bike based on non thru-axles mechanism (just an old, classic steel frame).
Would you keep it in the small or large chainring up front?
The official Zwift installation video says keep it in the small ring up front
Discovering mine! Received it 2 days ago and is my very first indoor setup. I keep it on my small chainring so far. Putting it on the bigger one causes a light misalignment and noise. A bit disturbing not using the bigger chainring, but if I understand correctly ?!, it finally does not matter as the system does simulate all gears no matter the size of your chainrings?! Seems crazy magic!
What a great idea. As it is essentially a single speed hub I would expect it to be quite robust. Any idea on the life span of the sprocket and can it be changed without buying a whole new unit?
du kannst das Ritzel tauschen. Ich hatte einen Wahoo mit einem rennrad, dass ich nur Indoor verwendet habe. Da nützt sich somit auch nichts ab. Die Kette und Ritzel waren nach drei Jahren immer noch neu
Did my first ride on the Hub One. I like it but will take some getting used to the no feedback when actually shifting
I think I heard you say the Zwift Hub One is compatible with a 7 -12 cassette. Have you tried the 7 speed cassette? Zwift says the hub one is compatible with 8 - 12.
Can this hub be used on Garmin tacx or wahoo, essentially hardware compatibility
What about thru-axle vs. drop axel. Does it handle carbon fiber thru-axles? And, if it does, will you need a longer carbon thru-axel than is typically run on the bike with a cassette?
I was just talking about this with a buddy the other day... wouldn't it be nice to have a singlespeed, but you couldn't use it in freeride mode. I have to imagine Wahoo will have some answer to this in the future... hopefully via software and a small remote!
Although I guess you could use Zwift Remote or the Play Controllers for the virtual shifting.
Hi there!
Thanks for these useful explanations you had, first of all.
I don't have enough time to read all the comments, therefore forgive me, if this has already been asked; was there any issue while shifting (mostly highest and lowest shifts) like touching noise or something on the COG? Let me know and direct me, if you've already replied it on another comment :) Thanks in advance.
Have a nice ride to you all, guys!
The chain never moves and it’s just resistance that is adjusted with any gear so there isn’t any difference in noise.
Can I use the swift hub one (non-virtual riding) without the swift-membership?
Thanks for answering!
Is there anything to say about durability? I'm guessing its a sturdy cog since it doesnt require any special shaping to allow for shifting, correct? What about the material?
Great video. What I want to know is can I uses my tacx app with this shifting.???
Thanks for the video, one question - how does it work when you do workout in ERG mode? They will kinda mess with each other, won’t they?
Sorry, forgot to mention in the video that the Click adjusts resistance while in erg mode, it doesn’t actually “shift”
Might be worth pinning this Q/A that'll be a big question for most poeple!
@@Digitall3 already added a pinned note 👍 Thanks!
Is it more silent? Chain is always straight, so should give less chain noise?... I wonder if you can install this cog on a Wahoo Kickr, the dimensions are probably equal to a cassette, so hardware side should work, but the software...?
I have ordered an Zwift Hub One , I installed him , all good except one issues: he keep disconnecting every 20 seconds. Did someone encountered thsi problem ? I connected the Hub to a fresh zwift installed on a clean laptop, I paired on BLE on laptop both Hub and Click . I paired on BLE on Zwift , everything fine . Then I tried to pedal and ..surprise , he start disconnect and connect on 30 sec interval. A situation is this : I runned Zwift on a smartphone (Samsung A 52) and connect the Hub and Click and runs very well , smoothly I can say . Why it cant be run on Laptop+ win 10 ???
I like the idea but just wondering if the clicker connects directly to the trainer or Zwift. My point being would this trainer work without a connection to Zwift and still do virtual shifting
does this allow you to control the resistance without having zwift app open? currently I use jetblack app in resistance mode then increase resistance in the app then shift. Just wondering if the zwift app must be running for this to work. thanks
what is the benefit if you live by yourself with just one bike?
When could we expect virtual shifting on other wahoo ?
Hi! Will this work with a MTB that uses a 7-speed freewheel? It's the NorthRock XC27 sold by Costco. Thanks in advance!
Could you use this as everyday on the road gear shifting?
when I buy the Zwift Cog, there is no compatibel with Wahoo Core trainer, right ?
Would be nice if the new Zwift cog would fit on other trainers as well, ie tacx, wahoo.
Each manufacturer may use different engagement systems and designs for their free hub bodies so that could be tough
How does this one compare to Wahoo Kickr Core / Tacx Flux 2?
Does anyone know if this "cog and click" kit would work with the Jet Black Volt as the Hub is essentially that? IE would the click from the controller>game>hub work with controller>game>volt??? Or is the software specific to run the hub only?
Its great idea but i wonder if u can choose the teeth size. Like 11/32 or 11/34 so on.
Right now there is no gear size customization but likely a requested feature.
Why are you in the small chainring? Straighter chainline?
It provided a better chain line
Due to the way resistance is produced in a flywheel-based trainer you will notice that transitions between different resistances (especially noticable if you're doing structured workouts in erg mode) will feel way more consistent and smooth if you are in a smaller gear (because the flywheel speed is not as high).
Also it can make sense to wear the chainring more evenly if you are riding mostly small ring inside and mostly big ring outside :)
Like you said chainline also relevant, because of the first point I want to be in a lower gear, so to keep the chainline straight when I'm most of the way up on the casette smaller ring is also the way to go.
But the first argument is by far the biggest reason I'm mostly in the small ring indoors.
Can you put a cassette on the new hub one?
Zwift hub magnetic resistance or flywheel?
im assuming this only works with Zwift and not other apps?
hey, do you know if is compatible with jetblack?
Does anyone know if it will take up another Bluetooth connection on the Apple TV?
Hey, Little question. if you buy the Zwift hub one can you still put a traditional cassette on it?
Yes
Both my bikes have more than one front chaining. Do you not shift using front derailleur with the one hub
Correct. No need to shift on the front. I use the smaller of the two front chainrings.
How does rhe noise level of the Zwift Hub One compare to the Zwift Hub. I've seen mixed reports on this.
I have my system setup and the noice of the Zwift Hub One is acceptable- mostly just chain noise.
Can i use a zwift click with taxc neo trainer? Or does it have to be a hub. Can i attach the new hub thingy to said same tacx neo trainer?
No and No. Zwift says they will share the protocol to other hardware manufactures, but this didn't hapen yet.
Is there 24 unique gear inches, or do some of them overlap like on every other bike?
no they have different ratios, GPlama showed them in a videoc
Is there any reason you would want to get a ZwiftHub with a normal cassette over this?
Imo nope cog is better in every way
Wish i could get this in canada
wonder if it will fit my kids 24" road bike that has 2x9
Should work as long is it has a quick release, also may need a riser block for the front wheel
👍
🙌
Can you ship one to South Africa for me? 🤦♂️ Or one of the many other regions Zwift doesn't ship to....
will the front derailleur work as normal?
It does but it may affect the gear ratio. With the 24 virtual speeds there really shouldn’t be a need to shift with physical gears once you start riding
fair enough thanks@@DesFit
could this work with 6 speed friction shift
Friction shift shouldn't be an issue but chain width could be
My Zwift, only work once, I hate it, mine sucks
Too bad they locked it into wahoo. There is no reason why my Elite could not have it. It is basicly just a erg mode that you shift thru if you ask me.
They’re working on an open API for the click
@@DesFit did not know that. Have been mad all day lol. I was even on the verge of buying a zwift trainer . Thanks will wait then :)
There’s no real word on timing though so I wouldn’t expect this to be a near term thing, plus it’s then up to the manufacturer to implement functionality