BMW R100CS: Classic Airhead Restoration | The Modifications
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- čas přidán 24. 07. 2024
- The rebuild of the classic BMW R100CS continues. I've been battling with the decision to return this motorbike back to 100% stock or to allow for a few creative and performance-based modifications along the way. What do you think... comments below.
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Whatever your decision, you’re enhancing/saving this gorgeous machine! Your colour choice is exactly the same as my 1980 R100s! Looks bloody awesome! Personally for me I’d leave the aluminium look on the engine. I think whilst the black would look good, it’ll lose its definition & charm. As you said it’s 41 years old. It’s gotta have some wrinkles!🤣 Incidentally I fired up mine on the weekend & ya gotta love that engine!😍🤤👍🏼😎🇦🇺
Thanks Andrew. Yep, I agree. I'm going to stick with the raw aluminium. It will look amazing once its vapour blasted back to the original look. Maybe i'll get it all properly ACF50 sprayed to help preserve it.
Well done. I don't object to anything you did. Gorgeous motorcycle.
Good video - like the presentation and well produced. Very enjoyable watch thanks.
Thank you. Glad you enjoyed the video. 👍
I bought a completely standard & original low mileage '74 mk2 Commando last year. It has a nice used patina, has been well looked after, but hasn't been polished to within an inch of its life. I'm keeping it a standard as is reasonably possible but fitting upgrades that improve it for modern use (brakes, tyres, elec ignition, led lights etc), however every original part I remove gets put in a box so that it can be returned back to stock should I (or its future custodian) wish it.
I agree. It cost more than I'd ever get back for it, but this has given me so much pleasure, diving into a completely different world and learning new (old) stuff. I know it's a cliche, but its taken me on a journey and I've bonded with this wonderful machine more than I ever thought possible.
Oh, and we were both made in Wolverhampton 🙂
Slick video mate 👍
I have a 1980 R100RS in complete original livery. Blue and silver, probably the best colour combination on these bikes. People take these bikes and convert them from a machine you could ride around the world to one you would struggle to ride to the end of the road. They then demand humungus money for them. Crazy really. Keep it as near stock as you can. Pure riding pleasure.
That Blue and Silver is amazing. It's always sad to see these bikes being made less usable for the sake of vanity. My changes are small personal touches and hopefully upgrades that will make the bike better to ride on the road. I'll also keep and restore all the original parts in case I ever want to go back to 100% factory.
cream with red and grey pinstripe is obviously the best colour though.
I think it’s going to look fantastic, looking forward to seeing the finished bike…👍
Thank you. Yes, I can't wait to get it all done. Quote some way to go, but I don't want to rush it.
You're doing a fabulous job on this project and the progress vids are most enjoyable. Your paintwork is better than stock IMO. Can't beat black and gold! I applaud your decision to finish the engine in natural aluminum. More accurate and will contrast nicely with the black body parts. I presume you will have the seat foam replaced and while costly, a professional redo custom fit to you should ensure maximum enjoyment for you and your mate.
I love you British expressions. "Loose the shackles", "dog's dinner", "see your soul in the black". Big hand of applause
Just Beautiful!!
What a great project, It's going to look amazing!
Cheers Mark. Looking forward to bringing it all together! Some way to go but progress is progress.
Definitely feel comfortable upgrading and making it your own. If it runs and stops better, you will be inclined to use it more (and more safely). I bought a 1984 R80RT and turned it into what could be described as a brat bike. I love riding that more than any of my other bikes (not long distances). Good luck with the project.
I too would upgrade somethings because for me it’s about the bike lasting another 40 years.
Cheers Ian. Great advice as always. Hope you are well mate?
Really enjoying your journey WM...fascinating stuff. Love the tank...voting for clear coated aluminum engine. Keep up the good work
Cheers Gary. Yes i'm going to either keep it raw or clear coat it. Thanks for voting!
The top triple clamp, along with progressive anti dive springs will make it handle 100% better than stock
Cheers. That’s what I ended up doing and along with new shocks it’s made a big improvement. Have a look at the last couple of videos on my channel if you want to see how it turned out.
All your mods are absolutely justified, go for the black engine it will look great 👍
I like the way you go about things. Colour is a personal preference. I kind of like the original two-tone theme of my 1983 R100CS ( Metallic red with misty black edges ) .
Thanks Heinrich. Yes the Red and Black scheme is amazing. My bike was registered as being black so I kept it that way (with a small change). I would have happily gone with the red and black paint if that was the original style. The only problem is finding a painter with the skills to do it. I understand that it's not airbrushed, but rather very controlled over spray (quite hard to get right).
Glad I found this video and channel. Just picked up a 81 R100 and been battling with the same decision fatigue on whether to go stock or modified route.
I’ve now decided to go the same route as you. I.e. keep the stock overall look but improve on areas to make it a usable bike in the modern world.
I think I may even copy your paint scheme 😊. Would like to see how the black wheels turn out with the black paint…
Good luck. Its a massive undertaking but not doable either… +1 subscriber.
Cheers
Thanks for the sub Ronnie. It's been a heck of a journey so far, but i'm almost at the point where I can now start putting the bike back together. I'm happy with my decisions so far. For me it's been about keeping the integrity of the bike as BMW intended it, but with a few modern touches that will improve the handling and looks in today's world. I feel like this bike is giving me the opportunity to build my very own modern classic. Have a look at my community tab to see the current state of the build. The engine finally went back in the frame the other day!
Hey wildlife Moto amazing presentation. I'm a BMW airhead from Mumbai, india: have tuned an R90S for a dear friend and own a R69S. About the aluminium engine, BMW came out with this sharkskin finish of tiny dotted globules on their aluminium.....and when cleaned with spa and hot water constitute the BMW look. Almost all restorers go to vapour blast this and this exposes a virgin aluminium to the uk climate with sometime toxic rain water , winter salt and grime can wreak havoc. The old aluminium layer is already oxidised and so deals with the problems better. There is no shortcut to keeping the cases clean but cleaning them. Just my thoughts
I wanna (glass) blast and engine as wel for the R1100RS and the front cover is pretty bad, although no white powder forming, also the oil carter is pretty bad on the front and does contain a bit of white powder. Makes the bike look neglected, but you're correct probably about the oxidation layer.
I like your approach alot. I just bought an RT that I will strip and modify just a little bit. For years I couldn't decide weather to keep my GS PD stock or modify it. So it's still original. So many times I just stared at the bike and tried to make a decision but could not 😅
I know that feeling well. I think i've spent more time staring into space than actually working on it.
I think you should feel free to make it your own. Performance upgrades on the brakes are a good idea. The engines don’t get grungy if they are properly cared for. They get dirty if things are not sealed properly. The WD40 on a warm engine trick works. Makes for a slight color change but provides some sealing to the case and makes it easier to keep clean.
18:14 They are air cooled, so coatings are a barrier to cooling. That said, even BMW coated the cylinders on some models.
Should have known your upgrades would Be top notch , coated clear plus black for me 😀👍
Thanks Tony. Hope you are doing well sir.
Looking great so far. Guzzi painted the engine in my V7 black at the factory and it looks great and is easy to clean, Guzzi engines having a similar visual appeal to airheads. Only problem is I've seen a couple of V85TTs on which the engine paint has started to come off and it looks pretty rough, so if you get it painted make sure it's as durable as possible.
Yes nothing worse than a bad paint job on an engine. I was looking into Cerakote as it seems much tougher than paint. I'm likely going to leave it as raw aluminium.
Great job, I'm really enjoying this build. My inclination would be to black cerakote the engine casings as it won't detract too much from the original while improving the overall look, practicality and durability of the finish.
Cheers Michael. I’ve decided to cerakote the black bits (like rocker covers, timing chest and starter motor cover), but I’ll probably leave the main cases raw aluminium.
From new, most bikes gradually become personalised in some way. Additional luggage, screens, shocks, exhausts etc. A 90S with Lester wheels and Hoske exhausts is still a period piece. Although, a museum exhibit must be completely stock I suppose. I converted my RS to S spec and added my own paint scheme and pin striping. It looks great in my opinion of course!
Totally agree. I've been enjoying the content over on your channel. Love your 90s Appreciation video
Enjoyed the video, as usual :)
For me, keep it as close to stock as possible. At least don't do irreversible mods. That's what i have learned since the 70's bikes were still on the showroom floors. I have no problem with tasteful mods that actually add something valuable (your triple tree vs LED's under the tank) stupid example but i think you get it :)
Oh and the alu parts i'd keep "raw" or ceracoat in clear or silver. I just can't stand "blacked out" - just a matter of taste and preference of course. In any case i salute your commitment and i am impressed so far!
Cheers!
Thanks for the advice. Small practical upgrades only. I've decided not to paint the engine :)
The casings are just fine when oiled with wd40, the coatings allways chip and blister leave it standard Finnish, the other upgrades are great, I run a 90s and 2 GS.
I think coating the aluminum is my vote for the sake of visual O.E.M. originality. The performance upgrades all make sense to me. I'm also thinking the black tank change is fine. It looks great and if you really hated the metallic black, you needed to make that change, but stick with O.E.M. as much as you can, and I think it'll be a real head-turner
Thank you. Yes I’m now set on keeping the engine cases original. 👍
I think the most important thing is to keep the bike on the road as a useable machine that you can enjoy, then when your custodianship ends it’s there for someone else to enjoy, so if there thing is total originality they can restore back to original, I agree that although it’s a great machine it’s not historically important so to my mind there’s no issue with making changes that you’ll enjoy 👍
Absolutely!
Keep it stock. I also have a 1981 R100CS which I’ve totally rebuilt and repainted in 506 scheme which is metallic black and it pops ! The metal flake is a very subtle green which is better than plain black. The aluminium block, barrels etc look great with Rub’n’Buff. Degrease completely then apply a small amount of Rub’n’Buff. Silver Leaf for block, barrels, head and final drive. Pewter for gearbox and carbs. Looks factory and protects. I’m interested to see your fork rebuild. If the head bearings etc are set up right then steering damper shouldn’t be needed.
Thanks for the tip on the aluminium maintenance. Once it’s all blasted I’ll be keeping it raw metal. I’ll check out the products you mentioned. Personally I’m a fan of solid colours over metallic, but I’m sure a well executed 506 scheme looks amazing. I’m now trying to get my head around a digital re-wire upgrade while keeping the original dash and switches.
As long as you keep the analogue clock, all else is permitted ;)
👍
Black does make it look more classic
Ohh yes I am in that dark place and the bike has been in that state for 2 years now 😆,will it ever be put back together who knows .Black looks pretty good to me on the engine .👌👍
Oh no! It sounds like a motorcycle version of writers block. I’m still gunning to have it done by summer, but who knows if that will actually happen.
@@WildlifeMoto I hope you manage that I've said d the same for those 2 years but now I say nothing 😂
With a black engine then the carburettors stick out like a sore thumb and what would you do with the wheels than? Keep silver? Paint black? Graphite? Black tinted clear lacquer?
Stebel have some 2 tone horns that could be interesting to check out, at least it would remove one of those snails and be easier to hide.
Cheers Paulo. I agree, engine is saying raw aluminium.
Bigger valves, cnc port flowing?
BMW parts catalog sells new and it seams you can buy this engine new.
Also cool this engine already had valve seat in these days and they are 23€ today, you should definitely look at the vales, weight the conrod and piston assemblies and balance to achieve some extra smoothness and a bit faster acceleration.
I have this Artic silver on my R1100RS on the drive train and the front cover and oil carter are looking like yours, I'm also opting for black, Avus black?
You already answered your question with the tank. Its a restomod
I would stay original finish on the engine and transmission cases. I understand what you say about the look, BMW aluminium doesn't really take well to polishing like Japanese stuff and always looks a little weathered. But this is indicative of the sheer quality of the material. It's thicker and more coarsely cast than Japanese ally, but rarely corrodes, it just weathers. This is a distinctly German look, same thing with an old MZ ES250 I owned, a cheap bike but excellent quality metal.
You've helped my make my mind up. I'm going to stick with the raw aluminium. It will look amazing when it's vapour blasted back to it's original look.
All depends on how much time put into polishing. Admittedly my R75 is over polished, and I get crap for it. F off it's my bike
Hi wild life motto, why don't you have it clear sheracoated if you and that would protect the engine and keep it looking as it did when it was new . Enjoy the rebuild and hopefully you can the momentum with all the best with it and look for to more vid s on the rebuild
Hi Paul. Yes this is something i'm thinking about. I'm ruling black out so will either clear coat it or keep it raw.
I always like the “rustoration” projects where there’s no attempt to hide the age or condition of the vehicle, but celebrate it. I think here you have an opportunity to improve what you have and make the bike more usable. It’s just crying out for riding miles… so go with usable…. I would.
One day I would love to do a rustoration style rebuild. For me, it would be the hardest thing stay that disciplined.
That is beautiful black paint -- it is so black it really is light absorbing! I missed how did you get that engine bolt out?
Hi Edwin. I didn't film the removal process. The sides of the bolt were cut to release the engine from the frame. A nut was welded onto one of the stubs and a slide hammer used to bash it out. The two stubs inside the frame had to be drilled out as they were also seized in place. Massive pain!
@@WildlifeMoto Thanks, I was curious. Looking great!
No to the black engine. Great video!
Sticking with blasted aluminium.
I would go black. I get the point of staying true to the original but I feel it will look better.
Cheers Wayne.
Love the original aluminium ,more than Black .
Cheers. Went with blasted aluminium in the end.
By the way, the original Stove Enamellers, you’re fine, is a hell of a lot better. Do you have an etching primer coat then the stove on top of my 1976, 600 you would never get a better coat of paint plus also I don’t like powder coating. What do you like your bike Michael?
For what it's worth, here are my personal thoughts Mr WM........
If the bike was to be a show/museum piece, then correct factory originality is very important, but as you intend to actually use the bike, sensible mods which improve it in some way (safety/comfort/performance etc) are beneficial, IMHO.
Saying that, I personally don't like the look of that machined top yolk. I can see the obvious improvements it offers over the weedy stock item, but I would have to get it anodised or powder coated black so it mimics the original yolk colour-wise and blends in better, rather than looking too modern, out of place and blingy.
With regard to the engine cases, personally I would prefer them to have a clear protective coating applied after blasting, to retain their original factory aluminium look, rather than a black coating. I personally think that having black paintwork, a black frame and a black engine would be a tad too much.
Prefer the subtle change to the solid Jet/Piano Black paint over the metallic black (called Diamond Schwarz, IIRC) which always seems to look dirty.
But hey......those are just my personal opinions, which mean absolutely dick.....coz it's YOUR bike, and YOU should do to it whatever floats YOUR boat!!
Hi mate. I always appreciate your wise words.
I've decided not to paint the engine after the rebuild. I might end up leaving it naked or nano coating it. I know what you mean about the top yoke looking quite modern. I could get it powder coated, or if I retain the factory crash pad, it will be almost totally hidden away. The main priorities now are getting the engine and gearbox rebuild. Then it's suspension and brakes. A long journey ahead.
Aluminium - with clear on top. But beware the cooling is less then.
It’s your bike. Personally I’d stick to original. My 1982 Ducati only had urethane coated aluminium & it’s lasted 23 years of constant use from full restoration, albeit no salt on our roads. It’s your choice because it’s your motorcycle & reward. Remember, it’ll always be from 1982 no matter which direction you take. Enjoy the process.✅
Cheers Steve. Still working on getting the balance right, but happy with how it's going so far. I'm going to leave the engine as raw aluminium. I might clear coat it or just let it look a bit "used" as these bikes are supposed to be.
@@WildlifeMoto clear coat it. Seriously easy to keep clean & lasts forever.
Where did you buy the new enamel badges, love to get some
From Toaster Tan. Here is the link. toastertan.com/product/bmw-roundel/
Did I miss the engine bolt extraction solution ?
I didn’t post a video on it. The engine was cut out of the frame ensuring there was a stub either side of the bolt. A nut was welded onto one side and a slide hammer was used to extract it. The oil pan was removed with heat applied to the aluminium boss. The two parts in the frame were also seized in place and had to be drilled out. What a nightmare!
You should upgrade suspension, brakes,lights...safety is important !
Also, improve the reliability & performance of that engine..
There are better parts nowdays..
100%. Most of the time and money is being spent on the internal stuff. If I breakdown with my girlfriend on the back, i'll be in big trouble lol.
Vapour blasted and use a strong engine cleaner, pressure washer and lots of WD40 - any coating will fake and peel in time
Cheers Mark. That’s what I’m going to do. Best to leave it raw on reflection.
Stock is important even more so now, just because of all these "custom" bikes, chop the rear end off and put a 40 quid ebay seat on it, remove mudguards and try and sell for 15k, there aren't enough good un touched bikes left, please don't cut it. Small enhancements are good and future proof the bike, atb Chris
Totally agree Chris. This bike will remain true to form in almost every way, just a small small upgrades here and their to make it more usable.
Hi mate, how did you end up get that big long bolt engine bolt out?
Hi Phill. Ended up cutting the engine out of the frame, welding a nut to one side and smashing it out with a slide hammer. The two parts of the bolt running through the frame then had to be drilled out. It was a big pain that cost time and money to sort. Thankfully it’s done! Cheers for watching 👍
@WildlifeMoto Hi mate, there is a fellow in Canada, The Mighty Garage. He has a series, Tales of the Cul-de-sac. In it, one of the stories is a guy who beautifully restored a BMW. He tells how he slightly improved on bits, too, like yourself. Only about 10min long. Thanks you for replying
@@twinphill900 The egg yoke R100, I’ve seen it. The guy did an amazing job of restoring that bike. I hope I can reach that standard.
@WildlifeMoto I think you have the patience, skill, and aptitude to definitely reach that standard of finish.
I'm really enjoying the commentary and camera work on your videos. Thank you for going to that much effort.
Keep as stock visually .. but things as ignition, lights and internals can be improved ..
That’s the idea. I’m facing up to redoing the electrics with modern components. Might as well.
@@WildlifeMoto On my 1982 R100 T I upgraded to a 600 W generator, added a "police unit" so it will charge at 1200 rpm, an Emerald bean can replacement and a Wedgetail module. Pistons and push rods were also matched in weight (BMW didn't do that until 1985), which helped. I wish someone made a throttle-aware ignition module, as cars have it, only then will the engine be both smooth and strong. I am waiting for when the Smartcarb2 carburettors are ready, thats a worthwhile upgrade too. Otherwise its stock-looking. Well .. exept I replaced black stalk-mirrors will chrome foldable ones .. also consider putting in a bronze bushing around the rear drum brake axle, to prevent oil from getting at the brake shoes .. this is a known BMW problem in some years. Agree with the black too, mine is black + nano-coating, it looks as if the tank is wet.
Black engine/clearcoat? Personal choice and not so radical to spoil the bike. Take a look at the period "braced swinging arm". Small tubular under slung bridging like structure. I had this on mine, and two up made the bike more rigid. Of course it then moves the flexing to the frame, but does help. Go for the bendy oil filter, much easier to change. Over size O rings on the barrel to Crankcase joint, they tend to weep with the std ones. Use a dwel gauge to set the points, these bike reward you whith a perfect set up. Most important re balance your carbs every season after the first couple of runs each year.
Like the discs, the paint and the top yoke. Not keen on loosing the crash pad tho?
I owned for 8 years and 13 countries toured including Italyand Poland. 👍😎
Thanks for the tips Graham. I'll have a look at that brace.
@@WildlifeMoto . They came as a kit of tubes pre bent to weld to the underside of the swinging arm.
Easy to replicate from a pic, if you can find one??
@@WildlifeMoto . I have a picture, I will see if I can find how to send it to you??
No points on a CS.
@@lesleysmith5623 . Mine was a 1980 /7, and the CS looked to have the bean tin points. But if they don't then that's even better. 👍😎
If the bike were the legendary R90s, originality would be key. Less so the later models. IMHO
Agreed. Still want to keep it online with the original (just not obsessively so). I’m glad I didn’t get and 90s for this reason.
@@WildlifeMoto I'm liking your calls so far! Keep us posted
It's your bike mate, and unless you are restoring it for a museum or to maximise your investment by selling it to a collector, I say Restomod is the way to go. At the end of day, you need to decide what makes you happy as the bike owner.
Cheers Mark. 👍
Personally I think some people go overboard when trying to restore to stock, unless it’s a museum piece the most important thing is enhancing the road performance of the bike together with getting a look that the owner likes (which is hopefully not so far out that you can’t tell what the bike is). Have to disagree though about the horns, the old Fiamm’s sound far outweighs the old fashioned look for me! The stock horn on my R nineT is pathetic by comparison! 🇬🇧
Return to stock (or restomod at worst) every time. Upgrade where appropriate `(brakes, ignition, suspension, tyres etc). These are graceful old machines and the last thing they need is turning in to a Hipsters crap Bobber or Cafe racer.
Please keep it stock.
Keep your ''BMW Airhed'' Bike original and Sweet, it will only go up in value as it tunes into a ''Cult Classic'' and do not listen to all the B****t internet rumors 🎱 💯 Get a Harly Davidson to modifi...
If your carbs are bare vapour blasted they will look rough real quick.
Man I hope not. They have been sprayed with ACF50. I’ll keep an eye on them.
Those were not original, at least in the United States, we had Fiam brand horns.
Your choice for the top triple clamp is not good. In '86 I was riding with a guy who had one of those things crack when he went over a bad set of railroad crossings. He was able, barely, to get it under control and luckily we were on the way to the BMW dealership for other things but he ended up getting a new STOCK upper triple clamp. A better choice for stiffening the forks is a tubular fork brace, and the reinforcement to the rear swingarm, those two modes made the biggest difference.
Good to know. That’s for sharing that.