Hi I have done exact the same with my 1978 BMW R100s.....first thought let's refurbish carbs the rusty petrol tank.....then you see all the wear tear and rust.... Stripped it to bare motor....sending it to Volker Schroer in Port Elizabeth for rebuild...Frame nickel chrome plated as mine is slightly converted to Cafe Racer..😁Regards from Hermanus South Africa 😁😁
Hi Johan. Yes it’s a slippery slope. I can’t ignore problems with my bikes so it’s ended up being stripped back to nuts and bolts. I’m enjoying the process. Thanks for watching.
I had a similar problem a couple of years back, I made a reservoir out of plasticine on one end of the bolt and filled it with penetrating oil, I left it in place for a couple of days and then hit the end of the bolt with a substantial drift and a 4lb lump hammer, it worked, good luck with yours.
Thank you. That’s a good idea. The guy with the tools is coming round on Thursday so I’ll give it a proper soaking before then. Anything to help I guess.
@@WildlifeMoto PS it’s best to support the plasticine reservoir from underneath with a carboard box or something because the penetrating oil can soften it and cause it to drop off 👍
Love your work! My dad is going to give me his working, but in very poor condition 1984 R65, so I'm very interested to see how your build develops. I'm a bit daunted by the amount of work involved in your 8 minute teardown. I don't have a good history with bolts! I have an Interceptor 650 and have used your videos as inspiration/motivation/education over the last couple of years. I really appreciate the effort you put into your videos, thanks.
It will be a great learning curve and you’ll get to restore your dads bike back to its former glory. Just take it slow, and be methodical. If it’s your first build it might be worth contacting some local experts who can help with things like painting, engine work, suspension and gearbox. The bike is fairly basic and their are some amazing guides online. Check out Brooks Airhead Garage on CZcams and start reading the Snowbum blog. Good luck
@@WildlifeMoto thanks for the tips, I'll definitely check those out. I'm reasonably confident I could tear it down ... with a lot of swearing. It's the putting it back together I'm not so sure about! But your vids gave me the confidence to install a new throttle and switchgear on my Interceptor so I'm up for the challenge ... I think.
I had a 1978 R75/7 and one thing that i always had a problem with was the 12 sided fine threaded bolts that hold the universal joint to the gearbox. I didn't know that they had to be torqued to a specific setting and despite trying everything from threadloc to grip washers they would eventually come out. They would usually fall harmlessly into the rubber boot but would occasionally catch something, there would be a very loud bang and the bike would violently lurch to one side. Very scary. This was not mentioned in either the haynes or clymer manuals i used for maintenance and there was no helpful internet back then. Eventually the universal joint shattered and needed replacing but it was extremely small so had to come from bmw. I couldn't afford a new complete drive shaft assembly so i ended up buying a new drive shaft cheap for a different model with the same UJ on and swapping UJs.
Wow, you are lucky the wheel didn't lock up completely! Maybe the threads in your output flange were damaged? The manual now recommends that these bolts are replaced every time you remove them. Also when you buy replacement bolts they come pre-threadlocked, so it's clearly been an issue in the past. I see a lot of people just tightening these with a spanner, but (as you said) there is a specific torque value for these. I have purchased the tool that will let me use my torque wrench to tighten them up. I'll also use a paint pen to keep a regular eye on them.
@@WildlifeMoto Take lots of photos. Looks like you’ve bagged & tagged everything. That’s always a great start✅ It obviously costs money, but no matter what, keep it knowing you did it!
(edit) I be seen the front & rear are studs. One side nut & washes are removed, the other side the nut & washer left on. A small diameter drift can be used to hammer one side of the stud through to the other side. The engine & frame hanging with straps is not separating the load of the engine from the frame. Try supporting the engine & have the frame just sitting freely but balanced.
Thanks Steve I’ve tried taking the pressure off the frame by loosening the straps, it’s a bit of a nightmare. I also bashed the ends of the stud so hard I now think they are flared and will need cutting back. Im afraid of hitting it too hard and taking half the crank case off with it! Obviously I’m not bothers about the bolt, just want the darn thing gone 😂
@@WildlifeMoto the underneath of the engine needs support. The frame should just sit there self loading on the studs. It reminds me of my 1982 Ducati. Support the engine, remove the bolts & then pull away the frame. On Your BM, it’s cradled in the frame.
Your doing well, just take your time, it’s easy to assemble when your using brand new parts in a factory, it takes a certain amount of passion to restore a machine forty years on, lots of oil and heat plus lots of smoke should resolve your stud problem. Wish you luck.👍
Thanks Stephen. The bolt is finally out. Had to cut it in two places to get the engine out. A nut was welded to one of the stubs and it was smashed out with a slide hammer. Then the remaining parts had to be drilled out of the frame. It’s was really stuck but thankfully the battle is won and I can move on.
I mentioned it in a later video but not a whole video on it. The stud was cut either side of the engine to get it out of the frame. A slide hammer was used to pull it out of the engine and each stump had to be drilled out of the frame. It was properly seized in place.
Good idea! I’m not sure why they though running a 300mm + steel bolt through an aluminium case was a good idea. Apparently this a is very common problem now. Keeping everything crossed that I can get it out.
Bei 0:26 sehe ich, dass der Lenkkopf unten beim Lager einen Schaden hat.Was machst du damit? Übrigens gefällt mir der Reifen BT 46 sehr gut.Grüße aus Germany
@@WildlifeMoto es sah so aus,als wäre unter dem Lenkanschlag etwas heraus gebrochen.Alles Gute.Jetzt habe ich es erkannt:es ist ein Schatten vom Lenkanschlag.
Stay strong. I appreciate you taking us along for the ride...
Hi I have done exact the same with my 1978 BMW R100s.....first thought let's refurbish carbs the rusty petrol tank.....then you see all the wear tear and rust.... Stripped it to bare motor....sending it to Volker Schroer in Port Elizabeth for rebuild...Frame nickel chrome plated as mine is slightly converted to Cafe Racer..😁Regards from Hermanus South Africa
😁😁
Hi Johan. Yes it’s a slippery slope. I can’t ignore problems with my bikes so it’s ended up being stripped back to nuts and bolts. I’m enjoying the process. Thanks for watching.
I had a similar problem a couple of years back, I made a reservoir out of plasticine on one end of the bolt and filled it with penetrating oil, I left it in place for a couple of days and then hit the end of the bolt with a substantial drift and a 4lb lump hammer, it worked, good luck with yours.
Thank you. That’s a good idea. The guy with the tools is coming round on Thursday so I’ll give it a proper soaking before then. Anything to help I guess.
@@WildlifeMoto PS it’s best to support the plasticine reservoir from underneath with a carboard box or something because the penetrating oil can soften it and cause it to drop off 👍
Love your work!
My dad is going to give me his working, but in very poor condition 1984 R65, so I'm very interested to see how your build develops.
I'm a bit daunted by the amount of work involved in your 8 minute teardown. I don't have a good history with bolts!
I have an Interceptor 650 and have used your videos as inspiration/motivation/education over the last couple of years. I really appreciate the effort you put into your videos, thanks.
It will be a great learning curve and you’ll get to restore your dads bike back to its former glory. Just take it slow, and be methodical. If it’s your first build it might be worth contacting some local experts who can help with things like painting, engine work, suspension and gearbox. The bike is fairly basic and their are some amazing guides online. Check out Brooks Airhead Garage on CZcams and start reading the Snowbum blog. Good luck
@@WildlifeMoto thanks for the tips, I'll definitely check those out.
I'm reasonably confident I could tear it down ... with a lot of swearing. It's the putting it back together I'm not so sure about!
But your vids gave me the confidence to install a new throttle and switchgear on my Interceptor so I'm up for the challenge ... I think.
I had a 1978 R75/7 and one thing that i always had a problem with was the 12 sided fine threaded bolts that hold the universal joint to the gearbox. I didn't know that they had to be torqued to a specific setting and despite trying everything from threadloc to grip washers they would eventually come out. They would usually fall harmlessly into the rubber boot but would occasionally catch something, there would be a very loud bang and the bike would violently lurch to one side. Very scary. This was not mentioned in either the haynes or clymer manuals i used for maintenance and there was no helpful internet back then. Eventually the universal joint shattered and needed replacing but it was extremely small so had to come from bmw. I couldn't afford a new complete drive shaft assembly so i ended up buying a new drive shaft cheap for a different model with the same UJ on and swapping UJs.
Wow, you are lucky the wheel didn't lock up completely! Maybe the threads in your output flange were damaged? The manual now recommends that these bolts are replaced every time you remove them. Also when you buy replacement bolts they come pre-threadlocked, so it's clearly been an issue in the past. I see a lot of people just tightening these with a spanner, but (as you said) there is a specific torque value for these. I have purchased the tool that will let me use my torque wrench to tighten them up. I'll also use a paint pen to keep a regular eye on them.
WM best thing to do! Takes time , patience & absolutely rewarding! Love it & great for you to learn about your own work.
Cheers Steve. Yes is massively rewarding. I’m just trying to slow down and be methodical rather than rushing. I’m learning a lot.
@@WildlifeMoto Take lots of photos. Looks like you’ve bagged & tagged everything. That’s always a great start✅ It obviously costs money, but no matter what, keep it knowing you did it!
(edit) I be seen the front & rear are studs. One side nut & washes are removed, the other side the nut & washer left on. A small diameter drift can be used to hammer one side of the stud through to the other side. The engine & frame hanging with straps is not separating the load of the engine from the frame. Try supporting the engine & have the frame just sitting freely but balanced.
Hi Steve. It goes through it’s own boss (part of the crankcase) and is one long bolt.
Thanks Steve I’ve tried taking the pressure off the frame by loosening the straps, it’s a bit of a nightmare. I also bashed the ends of the stud so hard I now think they are flared and will need cutting back. Im afraid of hitting it too hard and taking half the crank case off with it! Obviously I’m not bothers about the bolt, just want the darn thing gone 😂
@@WildlifeMoto the underneath of the engine needs support. The frame should just sit there self loading on the studs. It reminds me of my 1982 Ducati. Support the engine, remove the bolts & then pull away the frame. On Your BM, it’s cradled in the frame.
When you have the front end stripped I'd stick in a billet top bracket, makes a massive difference to the front end and looks great too.
Hi Eric, take a look at this. czcams.com/users/postUgkxT6MxD0WP_TLetPITiyV2Z5Js4u1Vx1n6
Your doing well, just take your time, it’s easy to assemble when your using brand new parts in a factory, it takes a certain amount of passion to restore a machine forty years on, lots of oil and heat plus lots of smoke should resolve your stud problem. Wish you luck.👍
Thanks Stephen. The bolt is finally out. Had to cut it in two places to get the engine out. A nut was welded to one of the stubs and it was smashed out with a slide hammer. Then the remaining parts had to be drilled out of the frame. It’s was really stuck but thankfully the battle is won and I can move on.
Try Plusgas, it is amazing stuff but give it plenty of time and soaking!
I’ve had it soaking in a penetrating oil but no joy yet. We’re hitting it with the heavy tools tomorrow so fingers crossed that sucker will come out!
Great video as always can we have a video on planning for a motorcycle tour? UK based and more royal Enfield videos too ☺️
Thanks. Yes I can do that. Cheers
Had the same experience on a 250lc rear wheel bolt only wanted to paint the wheel and ended up destroying the bolt good luck
Yikes! Well as long as I don’t end up destroying my frame or crankcase I’ll be happy. 😅
Sad times it is. when some one has to calls it OC. i call it Committed to do your Best. OB !!!
Great video keep it comming 😀
True that. Nothing like doing the job right.
Did you do an update video on how you got the bolt/stud out?
I mentioned it in a later video but not a whole video on it. The stud was cut either side of the engine to get it out of the frame. A slide hammer was used to pull it out of the engine and each stump had to be drilled out of the frame. It was properly seized in place.
If you get it out put a Taitanium etc back in it's place.
Good idea! I’m not sure why they though running a 300mm + steel bolt through an aluminium case was a good idea. Apparently this a is very common problem now. Keeping everything crossed that I can get it out.
Bei 0:26 sehe ich, dass der Lenkkopf unten beim Lager einen Schaden hat.Was machst du damit? Übrigens gefällt mir der Reifen BT 46 sehr gut.Grüße aus Germany
The steering head is fine, however all the bearings and inner races are getting replaced when the frame gets powder coated.
@@WildlifeMoto es sah so aus,als wäre unter dem Lenkanschlag etwas heraus gebrochen.Alles Gute.Jetzt habe ich es erkannt:es ist ein Schatten vom Lenkanschlag.