Thanks for the video on timing, great tutorial great tutorial. Worked on my Pfaff 138 for two hours with no success, and frustration setting in gave it up for the day. I watched your video that night looked so easy the way you explained it. The next morning i re timed it in five minutes, so simple with the right instructions. Thanks again.
Thanks for posting this incredibly helpful video. It's a great set of real-world data points a person can apply in conjunction with repair manuals usually written for the experienced sewing mechanic. Thorough. Well done. Also a quick plug for inexpensive digital calipers you're using. Everyone should own a pair and learn to use them properly. There are at least 4 ways to use this tool, some more effective than others. For instance, you demonstrate placing the large open jaws next to the gap to eyeball the 1.8mm spacing. The large jaws are used for outside measurements. "Eyeballing" introduces parallax error, which is a way of saying that actual measurement will probably be longer than 1.8mm. While a .2mm difference doesn't sound like much, errors introduced into a machine quickly start to add up, leading to frustration. A faster, more accurate way to use the caliper for this application is to flip it over and use the skinny jaws, which can be used to set the 1.8mm spacing. Place the skinny jaws atop the clip and slide both up towards the machine until you make contact. Remove the caliper. You should have almost exactly 1.8mm spacing. You can do this with your eyes closed for as many times as you like, and always come out with the same results. You're doing the Lord's work, my friend. Please keep it up.
I was just checking a 335 machine last week. The needle had a burr on the end resulting in slipped stitches. I think I solved the problem but after seeing your video I want to double check everything. It’s a great video. You explained it all very well. Thanks so much.
That's great to hear! Ya, bur on the needle is either a hook strike or a needle plate/feed dog strike. I always start with timing when diagnosing these issues. Glad to hear you fixed it!
Thank you so much for this video. I do not have access to a sewing machine doctor where I live, and have to fix it myself. I used the same specs and method to fix my Pfaff select 1538 regular sewing machine. Now it works beautifully. I didn't have a clip like in the video, so I used a strip of masking tape.
I'm thinking this is a fantastic post, in 2023! Thanks so much for taking the time. My sewing machine doesn't seem quite so scary to me now, after watching this. 😂😁
Thank you for posting this! This is a very straightforward explanation of hook timing on a very visible machine. I'm far less intimidated by this process now.
Great video, well explained! I may be able to do the timing. I am 160 miles away from the who works on mine and this would be of great help! Thank you thank you!!!!
This was extremely helpful and exactly what I needed to adjust my timing, but if anyone else is finding that it still not working it's possible that your bobbin basket is jammed and stuck - it may be helpful to take the Bobbin basket all the way out and make sure it freely spins before you do the timing procedure-it's comprised of two pieces, one is held in place by a small book that you have to remove to begin this whole process anyways. The other piece spins inside. In my case thread got stuck between these two pieces and prevented it from spinning so even though my timing was correct it still did not work until I cleared the jam. I will link to another video that helped me figure this out
Great video, very easy to follow instructions. One suggestion, use the other side of the callipers that are designed for measuring inside distances like between the machine and the clip you're adjusting.
Thanks for the explanation, I don't see this mentioned in the comments. When you use the calipers to measure out your 1.8mm spacing, you can flip the caliper around and use the other shorter set of jaws directly on the needle bar. The large jaws you are using are for measuring the outside of something (ie how thick is this tube). The smaller jaws are for measuring the inside of something (ie how big is the hole in this tube). on the far end there should be a bar that extends when you adjust the jaws that is used as a depth gague (ie how deep is this hole) Hope that helps.
Hi, thanks a lot for all of your great videos. They were a great resource when I found my Pfaff 545 which was more by luck and accident than an actual hunt... (Feel so lucky!) I've had occasional knots on the bottom side and a stuck needle yesterday. It was actually nothing major, the clutch didn't release, but now the hook timing is completely off. I suspect it had been slightly off before and might have been gradually slipping. In lack of a 545 service manual would you happen to have the correct data for that model (e.g. needle lift 1.8mm / setting 0?) I believe I have to readjust the small bevel gear inside the little plastic gear casing driving the hook. Thanks a lot! Peter
Fantastic video that helped me retime mine immediately after I assembled it. One thing i'm curious about is the thread size/weight. Would you mind sharing which thread you get and where you get it from? Again, I appreciate this video greatly and wouldn't have my machine running without it.
Thank you for the complete explanation. I have a the same machine, the feed dog moves back and forward, but not up and down, I understand that it could be changed, is there any possibility that you can do a explanation. Thank you very much.
Beautiful video, my 335 is in progress but I have a doubt that not even the manual fully understands. Does the part hollowed out in the needle go to the right as in all flat machines or does it go to the left in this arm machine? I thank you
It will not unfortunately. You'll have to fabricate your own. I've received a number of inquiries about the 545 binder setup. Since I made that video I've learned to TIG weld and am considering offering a welded steel or aluminum version for sale. I'll post a video if I end up making some to sell. Thanks!
Hello, really nice machine, I recently also purchased one. Only now the reverse does not work, it stands still. Maybe you know and can tell what could be the problem? I will be grateful to your answer.
Hi The segeant, Thank you for the videos, Question, I have a Pfaff 335 Chinese clone sold by many companies such techsew, Artisan and so on, it was working perfect and never skip a stitch or anything like that, I made the mistake of pushing the machine to it's limits and started to sew a 4 MM thick leather belt, as I normally sew no thicker leather than 2.5MM, The machine got somewhat jammed, I been trying to time it for at least 3 day with no luck, what the machine is doing it's skipping stitches and shredding the thread, watching your video got me thinking that possibly the needle bar got moved up due to the thickness of the leather or maybe the timing hook got damage...Any suggestions?...Any info will be appreciated. Thanks
After 3 days frustration, I'm back in business, I followed you steps on timing the hook, then lowered the needle bur as I was not paying attention in the past, and yes the needle bar was pushed up due to the thick leather... What a relieve!!!! Thanks...
Glad you got it back up and running. Sorry, I should have mentioned that there wasn't a need to time the hook, just the needlebar. But now you know the process and can tackle it if you ever have an issue down the road. Nice work!
Thanks! Ya, unfortunately the only way to increase the capacity is to upgrade to a 545. The 145 is an awesome machine though. I had a 145-H4 and even though I have a 545 now I still kind of regret selling it.
I have the same machine (145) and wondered if the bobbin size could be increased as well. Sounds like thats a NO. Oh well, sigh. Thanks for answering that for me.
Kind of an off topic question but u seem to have and love many of the industrial machines. What is ur take on the power and usablility of a singer 20u over say and older industrial stright stitch only machine like the 31-15 or 96-30?
They are two totally different animals. I've never really been a fan of the 20U. It's a 3/4 size machine and the ones I've used are loud and have a kind of rattle. The 31-15 is great except it doesn't have a reverse, if that is important to you. In terms of durability and use with heavier thread I'd take the 31-15 (or 31-20) all day. The 20U is okay if you 'have to have" zig zig but it's really not in the same class of machine. If you want a zig-zagger look at the Bernina 217 (Chandler also imported it as the "Chandler 217). That's the best industrial zig-zagger I've ever used. If you want a semi industrial zig-zagger look at the Bernina 950. I have both of these Berninas and they're incredible. They're in a different class all together.
Hey, if you could help me out that'd be great. We recently got a PFAFF 335, took it apart to clean it, but now we can't get it to work properly again. It was only dropping the occasional stitch before we took it apart, but now it's dropping almost all of the stitches (approx 5 stitches in 18cms of leather held) If you could help that'd be amazing.
First thing I would try is moving up to a larger needle size and see if that helps. If that doesn't work then it's a timing problem. Skipped stitches is the result of either the needle bar being too high or the timing of the hook being advanced (ahead of schedule when it should intersect the needle). Best advice I can offer is to try a larger needle, and then go through and check your adjustments based on the instructions of this video. Sometimes you can get away with lowering the needle bar a fraction of a mm and it'll work again. Goodluck!
Regards Do you know the height of the needle bar and that of the presser feet? Any manual ?, because there is no information about this machine. There is only manual of machine parts! An apology for my English, but it is through a translator, hehehe😁. Good day
Thank you SO MUCH! My machine is running better than ever... I kept hearing that clicking sound on my bigger needle (23), it got so bad at one point that i couldn't even hand crank the machine at all... had to fiddle for a bit but this video helped me do just that.
Awesome! The clicking is from the need striking the hook tip. I can't remember if i mentioned it in the video but generally you want to space the hook for the needle size you most frequently use.
The 201 timing adjustment is basically the same operation as this except the hook is on the horizontal plane. You can access the hook adjust screws underneath the machine. The 15-91 has a pinned hook so the only adjustment that needs to be made is on the needle bar height. Give it a shot! Goodluck!!
You are welcome to contact me via "private message" here on CZcams. Unfortunately I do not speak Italian. By the way, I was in Italy (Rome and Florence) a couple months ago, beautiful country!
Thanks! This was the ultimate help trying to re-time my Pfaff 230. Your commenting and the good view of the mechanic was super helpful.
Thanks for this. My machine's a newer 335 version but basically the same as your great old Pfaff here and you've explained this process really well!
This is the best timing video I've found on CZcams, thanks!
Thanks for the video on timing, great tutorial great tutorial. Worked on my Pfaff 138 for two hours with no success, and frustration setting in gave it up for the day. I watched your video that night looked so easy the way you explained it. The next morning i re timed it in five minutes, so simple with the right instructions. Thanks again.
Thank you for this video! I was able to correct timing on my Pfaff 230 - even having the service manual. You made it so much simpler!
Glad it helped! Thanks for the feedback! :)
God put people like him on earth for a reason 🙏🏾🙏🏾🙏🏾🔥🔥🔥. Thanks bro
Thanks for posting this incredibly helpful video. It's a great set of real-world data points a person can apply in conjunction with repair manuals usually written for the experienced sewing mechanic. Thorough. Well done.
Also a quick plug for inexpensive digital calipers you're using. Everyone should own a pair and learn to use them properly. There are at least 4 ways to use this tool, some more effective than others. For instance, you demonstrate placing the large open jaws next to the gap to eyeball the 1.8mm spacing. The large jaws are used for outside measurements. "Eyeballing" introduces parallax error, which is a way of saying that actual measurement will probably be longer than 1.8mm. While a .2mm difference doesn't sound like much, errors introduced into a machine quickly start to add up, leading to frustration. A faster, more accurate way to use the caliper for this application is to flip it over and use the skinny jaws, which can be used to set the 1.8mm spacing. Place the skinny jaws atop the clip and slide both up towards the machine until you make contact. Remove the caliper. You should have almost exactly 1.8mm spacing. You can do this with your eyes closed for as many times as you like, and always come out with the same results.
You're doing the Lord's work, my friend. Please keep it up.
I was just checking a 335 machine last week. The needle had a burr on the end resulting in slipped stitches. I think I solved the problem but after seeing your video I want to double check everything. It’s a great video. You explained it all very well. Thanks so much.
That's great to hear! Ya, bur on the needle is either a hook strike or a needle plate/feed dog strike. I always start with timing when diagnosing these issues. Glad to hear you fixed it!
This was super helpful! I have a pfaff 130 because of your older video.
Thank you so much for this video. I do not have access to a sewing machine doctor where I live, and have to fix it myself.
I used the same specs and method to fix my Pfaff select 1538 regular sewing machine. Now it works beautifully.
I didn't have a clip like in the video, so I used a strip of masking tape.
I'm thinking this is a fantastic post, in 2023! Thanks so much for taking the time. My sewing machine doesn't seem quite so scary to me now, after watching this. 😂😁
Thank you for posting this! This is a very straightforward explanation of hook timing on a very visible machine. I'm far less intimidated by this process now.
Pro trick : you can watch series on flixzone. I've been using it for watching loads of movies lately.
@Landon Ibrahim definitely, been using flixzone for since december myself :D
I set my Adler 189 on timing because of your instructions. You are a real good educator.
Thank you for the kind words! Glad you were able to get your machined timed. The 189 is a great machine. Enjoy it!
Great video, well explained! I may be able to do the timing. I am 160 miles away from the who works on mine and this would be of great help! Thank you thank you!!!!
That really helps, thank you,well explained,the best so far👏
This was so helpful.
I just got one of these machines and messed up the timing when I changed the needle.
Thanks for making this easy-to-follow.
Thank you for your kind comment! Glad it helped!
Perfect just perfect. Thanks a lot my friend.
Thanks a lot, you helped me to fix my machine!
Fantastic!!
I’m Learning!
Excellent explanation. !!!
This was extremely helpful and exactly what I needed to adjust my timing, but if anyone else is finding that it still not working it's possible that your bobbin basket is jammed and stuck - it may be helpful to take the Bobbin basket all the way out and make sure it freely spins before you do the timing procedure-it's comprised of two pieces, one is held in place by a small book that you have to remove to begin this whole process anyways. The other piece spins inside. In my case thread got stuck between these two pieces and prevented it from spinning so even though my timing was correct it still did not work until I cleared the jam. I will link to another video that helped me figure this out
Great video, very easy to follow instructions.
One suggestion, use the other side of the callipers that are designed for measuring inside distances like between the machine and the clip you're adjusting.
Great point!
Thank you so much for this video!
You're welcome! Hope it helped!
Thanks for the explanation, I don't see this mentioned in the comments. When you use the calipers to measure out your 1.8mm spacing, you can flip the caliper around and use the other shorter set of jaws directly on the needle bar.
The large jaws you are using are for measuring the outside of something (ie how thick is this tube).
The smaller jaws are for measuring the inside of something (ie how big is the hole in this tube).
on the far end there should be a bar that extends when you adjust the jaws that is used as a depth gague (ie how deep is this hole)
Hope that helps.
Hi, thanks a lot for all of your great videos. They were a great resource when I found my Pfaff 545 which was more by luck and accident than an actual hunt... (Feel so lucky!)
I've had occasional knots on the bottom side and a stuck needle yesterday. It was actually nothing major, the clutch didn't release, but now the hook timing is completely off. I suspect it had been slightly off before and might have been gradually slipping.
In lack of a 545 service manual would you happen to have the correct data for that model (e.g. needle lift 1.8mm / setting 0?) I believe I have to readjust the small bevel gear inside the little plastic gear casing driving the hook. Thanks a lot!
Peter
Nice machine. Any thoughts on a Pfaff 1217 and what a fair price for one would be?
ever find out where the lg capacity case and seat came from, i need a set
Excelent explanation.
Thanks alot😊🤗🤗🤗.
You solved third time my problem.
May God keep you safe and healthy Ameen
Glad it helped :)
My pfaff user's manual for the 145 says the space between needle and hook can be gauged with a sheet of paper.
Fantastic video that helped me retime mine immediately after I assembled it. One thing i'm curious about is the thread size/weight. Would you mind sharing which thread you get and where you get it from? Again, I appreciate this video greatly and wouldn't have my machine running without it.
Great video. Thanks.
Thank you! :)
great video.
Thank u so much for this video. I'm so grateful, I could easily make adjustment by my own or better to say by you :)
Glad it was helpful!
Thank you for the complete explanation.
I have a the same machine, the feed dog moves back and forward, but not up and down, I understand that it could be changed, is there any possibility that you can do a explanation.
Thank you very much.
Beautiful video, my 335 is in progress but I have a doubt that not even the manual fully understands. Does the part hollowed out in the needle go to the right as in all flat machines or does it go to the left in this arm machine? I thank you
Thank you buddy!
HI Can the binder plate for this Pfaff 335 work on the Pfaff 145 or the 545. I look at one of your video were you made one to work on the 545.
It will not unfortunately. You'll have to fabricate your own. I've received a number of inquiries about the 545 binder setup. Since I made that video I've learned to TIG weld and am considering offering a welded steel or aluminum version for sale. I'll post a video if I end up making some to sell. Thanks!
Hello i have pfaff 335 h3 6/01 but i dont know wich hook i can use do you help me ?
Hello, really nice machine, I recently also purchased one. Only now the reverse does not work, it stands still. Maybe you know and can tell what could be the problem? I will be grateful to your answer.
Hi The segeant, Thank you for the videos,
Question, I have a Pfaff 335 Chinese clone sold by many companies such techsew, Artisan and so on, it was working perfect and never skip a stitch or anything like that, I made the mistake of pushing the machine to it's limits and started to sew a 4 MM thick leather belt, as I normally sew no thicker leather than 2.5MM, The machine got somewhat jammed, I been trying to time it for at least 3 day with no luck, what the machine is doing it's skipping stitches and shredding the thread, watching your video got me thinking that possibly the needle bar got moved up due to the thickness of the leather or maybe the timing hook got damage...Any suggestions?...Any info will be appreciated.
Thanks
Ya, you most definitely knocked the needle bar out of time. Lowering the needlebar should fix your problem.
After 3 days frustration, I'm back in business, I followed you steps on timing the hook, then lowered the needle bur as I was not paying attention in the past, and yes the needle bar was pushed up due to the thick leather... What a relieve!!!!
Thanks...
Glad you got it back up and running. Sorry, I should have mentioned that there wasn't a need to time the hook, just the needlebar. But now you know the process and can tackle it if you ever have an issue down the road. Nice work!
Nice job! I have a 145 & wish I could find an easy way to increase the bobbin capacity too. Thanks again!
Thanks! Ya, unfortunately the only way to increase the capacity is to upgrade to a 545. The 145 is an awesome machine though. I had a 145-H4 and even though I have a 545 now I still kind of regret selling it.
I have the same machine (145) and wondered if the bobbin size could be increased as well. Sounds like thats a NO. Oh well, sigh. Thanks for answering that for me.
Kind of an off topic question but u seem to have and love many of the industrial machines. What is ur take on the power and usablility of a singer 20u over say and older industrial stright stitch only machine like the 31-15 or 96-30?
They are two totally different animals. I've never really been a fan of the 20U. It's a 3/4 size machine and the ones I've used are loud and have a kind of rattle. The 31-15 is great except it doesn't have a reverse, if that is important to you. In terms of durability and use with heavier thread I'd take the 31-15 (or 31-20) all day. The 20U is okay if you 'have to have" zig zig but it's really not in the same class of machine. If you want a zig-zagger look at the Bernina 217 (Chandler also imported it as the "Chandler 217). That's the best industrial zig-zagger I've ever used. If you want a semi industrial zig-zagger look at the Bernina 950. I have both of these Berninas and they're incredible. They're in a different class all together.
Awesome!
Thanks!
Thanks good job
Hey, if you could help me out that'd be great. We recently got a PFAFF 335, took it apart to clean it, but now we can't get it to work properly again. It was only dropping the occasional stitch before we took it apart, but now it's dropping almost all of the stitches (approx 5 stitches in 18cms of leather held) If you could help that'd be amazing.
First thing I would try is moving up to a larger needle size and see if that helps. If that doesn't work then it's a timing problem. Skipped stitches is the result of either the needle bar being too high or the timing of the hook being advanced (ahead of schedule when it should intersect the needle). Best advice I can offer is to try a larger needle, and then go through and check your adjustments based on the instructions of this video. Sometimes you can get away with lowering the needle bar a fraction of a mm and it'll work again. Goodluck!
Do have second machine 335
Regards Do you know the height of the needle bar and that of the presser feet? Any manual ?, because there is no information about this machine. There is only manual of machine parts! An apology for my English, but it is through a translator, hehehe😁. Good day
Hi there can you help me I am trying to tune my Adler 69 and the instructions are not that clear to me
Cual es el hilo más grueso que se puede usar pfaff 335 h2
Merci beaucoup !
Thank you SO MUCH! My machine is running better than ever... I kept hearing that clicking sound on my bigger needle (23), it got so bad at one point that i couldn't even hand crank the machine at all... had to fiddle for a bit but this video helped me do just that.
Awesome! The clicking is from the need striking the hook tip. I can't remember if i mentioned it in the video but generally you want to space the hook for the needle size you most frequently use.
Great Job explaining
needle scarf is at the same distance from flat hook point surface , regardless of needle diameter
Hi! My hook is touching my needle. How do I set the hook to be 0.5mm away from the needle?
0.05mm i meant!
আমি কোথায় পাব সেকেনেন মেশিন পাপেপ ফোন নং পাওয়া যাবে দিলে ভাল হয়। আমার মেইলে
Hola vuenos días cuan es el masivo de grueso que puede coser con ella yo tengo una pfaf 335 h 2 igual que esa por favor agradezco de su ayuda
Cual es el número más grande de aguja que se puede usar para ella
i wish you would make a vidio on hook timing the 201-2 and the 15-91 thanks chet
The 201 timing adjustment is basically the same operation as this except the hook is on the horizontal plane. You can access the hook adjust screws underneath the machine. The 15-91 has a pinned hook so the only adjustment that needs to be made is on the needle bar height. Give it a shot! Goodluck!!
thanks but i need to see how to time tho 201 sorry im a dummy need a vedio may be some day youll make one? thanks.
thesergeant aa
"you don't have to be dead on"
*makes it dead on*
Good video and illustration my 130 is way off compared to your machine.
هل تريلهالي الى المغرب
Tolong penjelasannya dengan tulisan aja.
ciao vorrei contattarti in privato per chiedere informazioni puoi mandarmi un indirizzo email?
You are welcome to contact me via "private message" here on CZcams. Unfortunately I do not speak Italian. By the way, I was in Italy (Rome and Florence) a couple months ago, beautiful country!