Adam Ondra #80: Two Training Days in Innsbruck / Getting Ready for Lead World Cup
Vložit
- čas přidán 9. 06. 2024
- ČESKÉ TITULKY JSOU DOSTUPNÉ V NASTAVENÍ VIDEA
A few weeks before Briancon, I dedicated myself specifically to lead training and the best place to train that is in Innsbruck. Check out the next episode about trying on these perfect routes. Not necessarily always pleasant to climb, but imitating the real competiton style, that is rarely pleasant. On the contrary, being on a competition stage is hard, challenging, and insecure. And it only gets pleasant when you feel FIT.
Get yourself amazed by beautiful pictures in my photobook - AO Book:
• Adam Ondra Book
Have you seen this video of mine ?!
• Adam Ondra #47: The Be...
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Credits:
STORY BY
ADAM ONDRA
CAMERA
PAVEL KLEMENT
EDITED BY
ADAM LIGOCKI
PRODUCTION
JAKUB PÍNA
SUBTITLES BY
JARKA MARČEKOVÁ
EXECUTIVE PRODUCER
PAVEL BLAŽEK
SONGLIST
Elliot Middleton - Through Adversity
Alex Norton - The Advance
SilverHoof - Danger
Alex Norton - Point Blank
SilverHoof - Suspense
Alex Norton - Probe
Cloud Revolution - Impulse to Impact
Eskimotion - The Menace
© 2020 AO PRODUCTION S.R.O.
#climbing #training #worldcup #lead #sportclimbing #innsbruck #austria - Sport
The video production is constantly evolving for the better! Keep up the great content!
Yes, this!
Yes but sometimes no, yes its improved but i personally dislike the constant camera change, id love to see the full climb, with no cuts if possible, or only the rest moments to be cut, but everything from the same angle or 2 angles at most, but not a constant switch between different cameras, since its hard to focus on the climb that way. Apart from that, the quality is really good.
👍🏿
So what do people reckon the grade of the world cup final route was? 8c+
It's worth noting that the word cup was more of a European cup due to travel restrictions.
7:38 Legend has it that if there is a kneebar on a route, Adam Ondra will find it.
he will... even if it was unintended and the routesetters dont know about it either :)
Showing the routes simultaneously from the front AND closer up with Adam actually climbing them was a smart move. It showed how the routes were supposed to be done AND the cruxes at the same time.
12 onsights in 2 two days on that level... well, I think congrats are in order to the winner of the 2020 worldcup in Briançon 👍!
Watching this after your amazing performance yesterday :D Congratulations once more, you really fought smart and hard for the top!! It was really breathtaking to watch you!
Had the honour and privilege to shake Adam's hand this summer while visiting the Czech Republic, and to watch him train for a few brief moments. I saw with my own eyes his furious dedication. Congratulations on the win in Briancon. You look like an absolute giant in every sense of the word. Guys, imagine the Olympics had taken place this summer, this man would have taken GOLD.
he will propably take gold nonetheless
@@vaclavkovarik910 probably tomoa, just too good at speed
@@lavente5253yeah, that's what I expect too. Tomoa's just took good at speed and bouldering and he probably won't get last in lead. Adam on the other hand, has high chances of getting first in lead and getting a solid score in bouldering, but unless he gets first there too, his speed score will bring him way down when it comes to it
Bircklyn yea, Adam is only good at real climbing competition, not that bullsh*t they call "speed" 🤡🤡
@@user-fs5bg1xj8t that's like saying sprinting is bs when cross country exists. sure it shouldn't be combined cuz you don't get the best sprinters from the long distance group, and vice versa. but it has earned its right to be there. (technically speed climbing is closer to an olympic sport than the rest, by staying consistent it allows for more fair playing fields of all competitors, rather than getting lucky that someone set something to your specific strength that day.)
The way Adam climbs is totally crazy, so fast, so efficient, almost as if he's climbed it for 1000 times.
That outdoor 8C+ was sooo amazing! Esp the knee bars, dammit!
And no wonder he won the world cup...well-prepared, so fluid, so confident
Well, falling on the sloper at the end is definitely a valuable lesson.
Saw your performance in Briancon - Congrats!
man i've watched you climb for 7 years straight i'm so imprested and i think you are the best climber in the world. I'm also a climber, i climb 8b and you are my idol. Keep climbing man 💪.
"It's quite hard for me to deal with that" when he's talking about the thickness of the rope and you can see all the feelings in his eyes... heart broken!! 😪👌🏽🤨
Came here after Briancon. You have been amazing! Bravo
This climbing centre at Innsbruck is mind-blowing! So impressive
Really satisfying climbs 🦾
Thank you Master Ondra! Your are the best !!!
agreed with the many people who said the editing is getting better and better. top quality. music. flow. a real pleasure.
Congratulations on your incredible performance in Briancon. It's clear that you're immensely psyched and confident right now, somehow seem to be even stronger, and still just as humble and easygoing as ever.
Such a pleasure to watch Adam climb! He is moving so creatively, its just inspiring.
Amazing content!!!! Everytime i see their js a new adam ondra vid it always puts a smile on my face!
This is one of my favorite Adam Ondra channel videos in a long time!
Having the time displayed alongside the climb was such a nice addition, shows just how much faster and efficient the pros are!
8c onsight.. then again.. Adam you are in a league of your own! Amazing and inspiring.
love the Khaibulin Rishat random snapshots
Simplemente el mejor del mundo. Grande Adam!
Such an inspiration. Keep up the good work
What to say... deserved win it Briancon! Was nice to watch real competition again!
loving these videos
Jsi borec Adame! Budeme ti fandit na pristim svetaku!
Congratulations Adam for your Victory in Briançon 🔥🔥🔥
Great job at the World Cup Adam! Completely crushed it!
For sure he was ready😅💪 amazing performance! 😎😎😎
I was there that day with my family. It was really awsome to see Adam climb.
Beside of that the whole gym and athmosphere was inspiring as well. International youth teams having training camps. 10 year olds sending 7bs.
Impressive number of very nice routes of all levels indoor and outdoors ...
Well I guess it paid off! :) Incredible performance at Briancon, what a final, congrats Adam!
It's actually pretty funny, Rishat is so often shown only watching Adam climb (except for last weeks episode, I know). But according to his recent performance at the WC in Briancon watching Adam climb brings good progress 😀 Anyway, great video as always.
Congrats for the winning the cup in Briançon and thank you for the "Hollywood end"!
waw! excellent... it'amazing how Adam manages to make on sight ascents on plastic actually very interesting and epic to watch!!!!!after seeing that,his victory in Briançon isn't a surprise at all!!!! the bloke REALLY seems to be in good shape,to say the least....and ...OMG,what a wall....
Amazing! I live in California where gyms are closes, so this video made me happy and sad.
The bottom of that red route was pretty interesting! It seemed pretty sketchy for a sport climb tbh but was cool to watch.
You are looking the fittest ever!
Wow! Amazing
Amazing how you make it look so easy when it's actually master level routes... Onsighting 6 routes in these grades a day seems to be a routine for Adam
epic video! so strong and such a good technique.
Dammit Adam! You make it look way easier than I could possibly imagine! Not even a scream of yours! :) Flawless as usual!
Awesome video! Watched you in the world cups and you did not dissapoint :D congrats on the win!
Is nobody talking about the breathtaking ticklist? It would be unbelievable to do that many routes in just two days, but Adam managed to flash 12 Routes 7c+ and harder. No wonder even Jakob said he’s on a different planet.
It is impressive, but I think quite manageable for the top climbers. If you haven't already, watch Drew Ruana's Three Days in Joe's. I thought that was an impressive ticklist.
He didn't flash them, he on onsighted them. Even more impressive!!
Augustine Mcdermott You are right. Same with Jakob Schubert. It’s really inspiring what he could do on a weekend trip in magic wood.
The production value is getting better and better. Keep it up!
Even just 2 of those walls would be pretty impressive at most gyms, and they have so many, I'd love o be therw
Unbelievable! As someone who projects 7c, absolutely incredible! Phenomenal!
know exactly what you mean, and he flashes 8c's for training where my ultimate goal is an 8a+/8b, uiaa 10 which is still hopefully no more than a couple of years away.
@@davidsimpson3885 Good luck! For me, even the difference of 7c/7c+ is wild.
@@marioxsw i know what you mean, but sometimes it comes down to finding a route that suits your style and your dimensions, which might enable you to get through the climb a little more comfortably, i've got a couple of routes open where I am missing just one move because of my reach, where my climbing Partner walks through as he has only 2 inches more wingspan but which is more than enough, but has trouble with the actual crux which I in turn can do quite easily as I am quite good in compromised positions.
such a well produced video
Another great production! Please can we have an episode on your warm-up routine?
Hell Yeah. This made me want to climb as I’m sure is true for many.
🐲Nice to see the best climber in the world in Innsbruck!
I guess it's currently a very strong Adam Ondra.
.
Gratuluju k výhře ve Francii.
Damn my gym only sets up to 5.12d this is nuts. Congrats on your victory at the World Cup!
great episode (Y)
Gathering of the legends
Champion!
Loving the videos! May you do a video on your nutrition during a typical competition season?
My dream is to one day climb at this amazing gym!
i hope your wish comes true :) and i don t wanna brag but i m living in innsbruck an i m there every second day ;)
@@max-sg2uu I have a question for you then. Is it true that the average route is around 8a? Given it's my first year climbing I'm still in the 6b-7a range, and I was curious if there's any place for us noobs there
@@TornadoGod1 there are routes starting at least from 4c :) and plenty of them in all grades, except the steepest sections where it is mostly above 7c
@@max-sg2uu same haha
@@victorkrutyanskiy768 Thanks for that info, it always sounded as if mere humans cannot climb there. Time to plan a plastic stop on my next trip to Lago di Garda :)
8:31 wow that high heel hock 😮
@AdamOndra : Congrats from France for your victory in Briançon. It seems so easy for you, compared to the other climbers ;)
You say in this video that routes at this climb in Innsbruck are often more difficult than finals routes in Lead World Cup.
What do you think the grade of the final route was , in Briançon? 8c+ ? 9a?
Thank for you reply.
Usually 8b+/8c for senior male final wc
Damn 8:03, Adam looking on point there.
Beast 💪
you're pretty decent
damn man, you make it look easy
GOAT
It would be nice to see Rishat in action. Always great to see Adam, but i don't see a lot of other vids for the Kazakhstan's climber
Are the black volumes in play? 8:20 he steps on the big volume to jump up and each the hold
I would venture not, there are some black holds on them, I think the beta would be very different if they were in play. I guess Adam is here in "competition mode" so all focus is on red holds as they were the only on the wall
Innsbruck gym looks really tasty
Love this stuff! As a novice, would anyone mind doing a video on different climbing techniques and jargon? I.e, what is crimping; A slopper; Smearing; 'The Crux' etc? Would be really useful, thankyou! Maybe you and 'Other' Adam could do an explainer again? :)
Amazing video!
I also loved the short scene with the Rubiks cube :)
I LOVE RUBIKS CUBES
He just onsights 8c
What a legend
太強大了！
Seš zabiják , jen tak dál :-)))
Remember when on-sighting two 5.14b’s in a single session would have been considered impossible? Such a massive progression.
How cool will it be, if you can travel around and onsight every route you desire.
My friend was there and I was soo jealous of him. :(
In one shot I was sitting off camera next to Jakob und Adam talking :D
Next episode how to warm up properly/ your personal warm up???
We have a 9a+ at our gym, and if you top it you win a climbing trip of one week to Portugal. Adam?
For Adam this is "just another day at the office"
i like how that other dude is like is sidekick lol
Ahoj Adame, chtěla jsem se zeptat jakou obtížnost maji cesty na závodech? A holky to mají o něco lehčí?
did Adam gain some muscles? He looks crazy strong
Dude, you’re the champ!
On that note, it would be cool to see how youre doing with your training partner! id love to see a video of you and him giving beta and climbing different things. Different styles and such. I can’t say i know his name, but i know his face from the comps 100%! :) Training partner episoooode!!!! Just sayin. 😁
Can you make a video about flash and onsight pleaseeee
8:22 looks like a dab on the black hold with the right foot; looks like he used it to push off
What do you think is a typical grade for an IFSC finals and semifinals route?
The last one should be a flash instead of on-sight right?
Are you allowed to step on blocks that do not have your routes colours, like you did at 8:22 and 10:20 ?
Def not in a comp, but a comp also would never set other routes that you could accidentally dab on like that. It's just training so I don't think he's too worried about that, in the end he'd only be cheating himself if he really did use a different hold for aid.
Although it was probably just an accident lol, I do it all the time.
The 7 people that disliked this video are routesetters for sure
my hands are sweating like crazyyy
Who's solving the cube? I need to know if that's a Gan or not haha
I was wondering myself, HAHA... I‘d say GAN, yes :)
2:51 naughty adam you only clipped one of the top clips!
Most professionals do that...
Kristyna T Lmao i know i was just making a joke cuz when you learn as a kid they always tell you to clip both of them
hbdc 69 oh they want to you to do many things as a kid, in life in general ;D
Do you get penalised if you skip a draw in competition climbing?
If you miss a clip during a competition, do you get penalised for it?
Yes, any progress past that point is invalid, clipping all draws is mandatory :)
8:22 reason for being disqualified 🤔🤔🤔
Hard to tell if that was the volume or the black hold on it?
@@krissroxxy I think you should be disqualified for being so pretty 😏
@@jorge-lazaro smooth
@@jorge-lazaro You went for it, you thought it was a jug, but it was a total slopper...
In competition there are typically no other routes set so closely, right? ;)
The music is waaay too loud, but prime climbing as always!
How do you ask questions for the next Q&A?
1:53 u got your hand on a red hold ??
Are all here climbers? Were are you from?
🇩🇪