Thank you for showing how mere mortals can accomplish this in a normal garage with floor jacks and jack stands. Too many “DIYs” of people doing work on their cars with clean epoxy’d floors and lifts. Like yeah, ofc it’s not so hard when you basically have a pro shop.
Thanks. I got quoted 1.5k usa plus alignment from a shop. I did my turbos befofe so dropping subframe is no problem. I always thought removing the cv axles and front diff was hard and never got to around doing this but this looks easy. I totally would do this next summer. Thanks!
Great video. I JUST got quoted almost $7,000.00 to do this job on my 2010 e60 535i xdrive! I kid you not! They said it's a 17 hour job...and, THEY HAVE A DAGGONE LIFT! The same shop fixed my Boost limp mode issue for $343.00, which was a bad vacuum hose (another Shop said I needed New Turbos...smh), next thing I know, they're saying I need my Oil Pan Gasket done for nearly $7000.00. It happens. I call that "The Girl Treatment".
Really impressive job, I had the oil pan gasket leak and decided to give it to the dealer, cost almost 2200 dollars. May have to replace turbos in the future looks like its doable if you approach it in a stepwise methodical plan.
Awesome work. It is very detailed enough man. Keep rocking and wrenching man. Thanks for the time. One of the bests xDrive oil pan tacklers out there in the Bimmuh community. Peace ✌️
Great job, looks very similar to the Mercedes 4Matic. I did a lot of them in the dealership. It was much easier on the two post lift. You job again guys
awesome video looks intimidating but its doable. im have a small leak on a N55 F15 with 80k miles. yeah its time to do it b4 it gets worst. im glad i found this money saver video thanks!
The serpentine belt scraps were most likely inside your oil pickup tube inside the underside of the engine it sucks the oil from the oil pan to keep it all around the engine
Yes i completely forgot to mention that, i read the same thing and even bought it but there was no notch in the front main like i had seen, i read that its an updated seal that dosen't need it, i just cleaned it well and put it in and no problems so far!
I have a 2010 335XI. 150,000 miles Dripping on driveway for awhile now. Dreading doing the oil pan gasket. I would be due for the coolant pump and gasket. Should I do new Varga turbos while I'm under there? have you replaced your turbos?
If you already have the subframe out it will be alot easier to do turbos, my turbos and clutch are starting to go so ill probably just pull the drivetrain completely and do everything at once
This is old but did front main seal leak looks like it’s pushed in to far ….thought it had to be flush , also did you use the lube primer or glue that needed for it?
It was pushed in a tiny bit farther then I wanted but it worked just fine no leaks, and I didn't use the sealer your supposed to because from what I read its only on like 07 models or something like that, but zero issues from that main seal
Ya thats my fault, it was pretty hard to film and try and show exactly what I was doing on some parts, rack is just held in with 2 bolts then when the subframe drops it will disconnect
Can the subframe come out without removing the axle nut? Just want to install catless dp. Ive seen other xi guys drop the subframe without talking about the axle nut @ 3:33 . Kind of confused .Thanks for your time!
I believe you can, if you just want to lower it but im not sure how you would completely remove it without removing axels, i just found it easier to remove them completely
The answer is no.... you do not need to remove axles to remove/drop subframe. You can install catless downpipe just by dropping the subframe 2" with bolts still attached to frame just so you have a bigger gap to slip the old cat out. It's too easy... I have done thousands. I can close my eyes doing it now.
Hey Billy I know this is old but yes you can replace the Down Pipes without removing the CV Axles, if you're doing it on the ground you can support the engine etc. by supporting from the trans or using an engine support on top. Just unbolt both lower con arms from the frame no need to remove completely and actually if you look under the motor mounts there are 2 e10 bolts attaching both mounts to the frame, remove these on both sides. At this point you can unbolt the subframe and drop it a few inches on both sides and let it swing. No need to actually remove it completely. There's plenty of room to work on the exhaust at that point, plus its a lot easier to reinstall afterwards with the help of a jack and a long enough 2x4 piece of wood. I'm a mobile mechanic and I work of these for a living on the ground.
I just started researching the oil pan gasket because me tech told me I have to replace the oil pan along with the gasket. Is that true? There is noting wrong with my oil pan. He says when you have an oil leak the pan will begin to warp or bind. Is that true???? Thanks
Sick DIY man, I’m currently in the process of doing it I think I almost got all the bolts, did u have any strategy getting that E12 in the corner by the trans lines? And just confirming, oil pan is only hold in by the e12s right? I feel a pretty big bolt in the side of the oil pan but I have no idea what it is lol, every time I try to seperate it I find another bolt I missed
If I remember right its just the e12s, I just followed along the pan till I got them all, theres also a few that run from the bellhousing to the oil pan, and im not sure on the trans line, is yours an automatic? Might be different from the manual
Definitely looks that way, i wouldn't do it without a buddy to help but working off jack Stands really wasnt as bad as i thought it would be, just make sure you keep parts and bolts organized!
I forgot to keep track of all the tools i used, for getting the axle out of the hub i used a fwd hub puller from autozone/oriellys, and for taking it out of the front diff i just used a crowbar, but you have to be careful to not damage the axle
@@silas7866 being really organized helps and doing one thing at a time, just been taking cars apart for a minute but its honestly pretty straight forward once you get in there
I just bought a 2010 335xi w 95k miles and I was feeling really unsure about the reliability of the car, the first day I had the car , the radiator and expansion tank blew lol thankfully I was at my dads garage and not on the road, but I just want to do some preventative maintenance , before I do downpipes and fmic your video helps a lot though for future reference
2 years later..this made me laugh. I have owned my 335i xdrive for about a year now. I think I have been able to run it for around 200 miles. Once without a code flashing. When it runs though. ..more bolts to turn. TFTL.😅
😂🤣😅 "doing the front main seal is preventative maintenance." If you would have done preventative maintenance on the car from the start. Your belt would have never shredded.
Thank you for showing how mere mortals can accomplish this in a normal garage with floor jacks and jack stands. Too many “DIYs” of people doing work on their cars with clean epoxy’d floors and lifts. Like yeah, ofc it’s not so hard when you basically have a pro shop.
Thanks. I got quoted 1.5k usa plus alignment from a shop. I did my turbos befofe so dropping subframe is no problem. I always thought removing the cv axles and front diff was hard and never got to around doing this but this looks easy. I totally would do this next summer. Thanks!
Ya i knkw shop labor is crazy with these jobs, its really not bad, id just make sure everything is really clean before reinstall and take your time!
Great video.
I JUST got quoted almost $7,000.00 to do this job on my 2010 e60 535i xdrive! I kid you not! They said it's a 17 hour job...and, THEY HAVE A DAGGONE LIFT!
The same shop fixed my Boost limp mode issue for $343.00, which was a bad vacuum hose (another Shop said I needed New Turbos...smh), next thing I know, they're saying I need my Oil Pan Gasket done for nearly $7000.00.
It happens.
I call that "The Girl Treatment".
Really impressive job, I had the oil pan gasket leak and decided to give it to the dealer, cost almost 2200 dollars. May have to replace turbos in the future looks like its doable if you approach it in a stepwise methodical plan.
Ohh... thats actually not that bad... wish u showed the part when removing the axles tho
Thank you for helping everyone by making this video
Awesome work. It is very detailed enough man. Keep rocking and wrenching man. Thanks for the time.
One of the bests xDrive oil pan tacklers out there in the Bimmuh community.
Peace ✌️
Thanks man! Appreciate it
Nice video guys, is more than what some mechanics share
Great job, looks very similar to the Mercedes 4Matic. I did a lot of them in the dealership. It was much easier on the two post lift. You job again guys
Thanks man! Really wish I had the lift to do it on!
awesome video looks intimidating but its doable. im have a small leak on a N55 F15 with 80k miles. yeah its time to do it b4 it gets worst. im glad i found this money saver video thanks!
Ya it seems intimidating for sure but if you take your time and keep track of your parts its not bad, good chance to clean everything too
I like the 3rd gen chillin in the other stall.
A few steps and shots removing the front diff would have been helpful.
The serpentine belt scraps were most likely inside your oil pickup tube inside the underside of the engine it sucks the oil from the oil pan to keep it all around the engine
The car will give you a warning saying low engine oil pressure that’s because the tube is clogged
Hey, I didn’t see you place any sealer on the front main seal ? Everywhere I look it says to do so. Great diy thank you.
Yes i completely forgot to mention that, i read the same thing and even bought it but there was no notch in the front main like i had seen, i read that its an updated seal that dosen't need it, i just cleaned it well and put it in and no problems so far!
Great video! Do I have to do all of these steps just to change the oil pan gasket?
On the xdrive specifically yes, it's kind of a pain, the rwd is much easier but unfortunately the awd just has alot of parts in the way
@@BimmersandBoost I have rwd what steps can I skip??
Great work. Where can I find that ‘cheat-sheet’ procedure? Thx man
Thankyou for this, life saver ❤️
THANK YOU for this video!
Hopefully you have already done the water pump and thermostat?!! much easier with the subframe removed
I had done it a few thousand miles before this, probably should have just done it again but i think it will be fine for a minute!
I have a 2010 335XI. 150,000 miles Dripping on driveway for awhile now. Dreading doing the oil pan gasket. I would be due for the coolant pump and gasket. Should I do new Varga turbos while I'm under there? have you replaced your turbos?
If you already have the subframe out it will be alot easier to do turbos, my turbos and clutch are starting to go so ill probably just pull the drivetrain completely and do everything at once
This is old but did front main seal leak looks like it’s pushed in to far ….thought it had to be flush , also did you use the lube primer or glue that needed for it?
It was pushed in a tiny bit farther then I wanted but it worked just fine no leaks, and I didn't use the sealer your supposed to because from what I read its only on like 07 models or something like that, but zero issues from that main seal
Hi, Should you warm up your car in really cold weather??
excellent video
I missed the part where you disconnected the rack from the subframe
Ya thats my fault, it was pretty hard to film and try and show exactly what I was doing on some parts, rack is just held in with 2 bolts then when the subframe drops it will disconnect
Can the subframe come out without removing the axle nut? Just want to install catless dp. Ive seen other xi guys drop the subframe without talking about the axle nut @ 3:33 . Kind of confused .Thanks for your time!
I believe you can, if you just want to lower it but im not sure how you would completely remove it without removing axels, i just found it easier to remove them completely
The answer is no.... you do not need to remove axles to remove/drop subframe.
You can install catless downpipe just by dropping the subframe 2" with bolts still attached to frame just so you have a bigger gap to slip the old cat out.
It's too easy... I have done thousands.
I can close my eyes doing it now.
Hey Billy I know this is old but yes you can replace the Down Pipes without removing the CV Axles, if you're doing it on the ground you can support the engine etc. by supporting from the trans or using an engine support on top. Just unbolt both lower con arms from the frame no need to remove completely and actually if you look under the motor mounts there are 2 e10 bolts attaching both mounts to the frame, remove these on both sides. At this point you can unbolt the subframe and drop it a few inches on both sides and let it swing. No need to actually remove it completely. There's plenty of room to work on the exhaust at that point, plus its a lot easier to reinstall afterwards with the help of a jack and a long enough 2x4 piece of wood. I'm a mobile mechanic and I work of these for a living on the ground.
@@luissorto8719 I ended up removing the entire subframe. It was actually easier thankfully.
@@billyowusu48 how did you remove? just removing the 6 bolts and engine mounts?
I just started researching the oil pan gasket because me tech told me I have to replace the oil pan along with the gasket. Is that true? There is noting wrong with my oil pan. He says when you have an oil leak the pan will begin to warp or bind. Is that true???? Thanks
That definitely sounds a little strange, it would take a lot of heat to warp the pan, but mine was just fine going back in
update?
Sick DIY man, I’m currently in the process of doing it I think I almost got all the bolts, did u have any strategy getting that E12 in the corner by the trans lines? And just confirming, oil pan is only hold in by the e12s right? I feel a pretty big bolt in the side of the oil pan but I have no idea what it is lol, every time I try to seperate it I find another bolt I missed
If I remember right its just the e12s, I just followed along the pan till I got them all, theres also a few that run from the bellhousing to the oil pan, and im not sure on the trans line, is yours an automatic? Might be different from the manual
did you have to worry about steering wheel recoil after removal of steering column?
I left all the steering attached including the rack
This job is intimidating for a newbie and doing it alone without a lift lol.
Definitely looks that way, i wouldn't do it without a buddy to help but working off jack Stands really wasnt as bad as i thought it would be, just make sure you keep parts and bolts organized!
@@BimmersandBoost Dumb question, I didn't see you drain the oil before but I'm guessing I'll need to do that before.
@@xph0shizzle yes you will need to do that, i just did it really quickly off camera
I’m looking for the tools you used to pull the axel, is the tool list posted?
I forgot to keep track of all the tools i used, for getting the axle out of the hub i used a fwd hub puller from autozone/oriellys, and for taking it out of the front diff i just used a crowbar, but you have to be careful to not damage the axle
@@BimmersandBoost many thanks, keep up the great work, really appreciated!
Do you need to drop the subframe for the e93 2wd ??? To the same job
I think you have to drop the subframe even on rwd, just alot easier since you dont have to deal with axles
@ian trofimov , we need that video
Where do I get the Tow Hook for the engine support? Thread/Pinch size?
Its just the factory tow hook that comes with the car, normally in the trunk on the right side
@@BimmersandBoost the little things that count lol …
I'm in the middle of this job right now...I thought about killing myself, but my gun was in the kitchen in my holster.
Your not in west jordan/kewrns area are you???
Bountiful area!
Thank you man😂🙏🙏🙏
Hopefully it helped haha
Man where did you learn to take it apart like that, I would be completely lost,
@@silas7866 being really organized helps and doing one thing at a time, just been taking cars apart for a minute but its honestly pretty straight forward once you get in there
I just bought a 2010 335xi w 95k miles and I was feeling really unsure about the reliability of the car, the first day I had the car , the radiator and expansion tank blew lol thankfully I was at my dads garage and not on the road, but I just want to do some preventative maintenance , before I do downpipes and fmic your video helps a lot though for future reference
Watching your maintenance vid rn🤞
What oil did you put in the dif?
Redline gear oil in the front diff
Good info, but I couldn't watch the video, too much moving around, got dizzy watching it.
Can I reuse the oil pan bolts on 2008 528i e60 n52k?
Im going to guess they are the same aluminum ones in the n54 so i would replace for sure
@@BimmersandBoost That's what I'm trying to find out... if they are aluminum or not??
@@Val_tini. go on fcp euro and search oil pan bolts for your specific car, it will tell you if there aluminum
@@BimmersandBoost Thank you... I just went there but, it doesn't say whether they're aluminum or not.
Did you drain the diff?
Yes you do have to drain the diff
If you buy this car as your primary daily driver you better have Uber!
2 years later..this made me laugh. I have owned my 335i xdrive for about a year now. I think I have been able to run it for around 200 miles. Once without a code flashing. When it runs though. ..more bolts to turn. TFTL.😅
With the camera moving all over the place is pain to watch.
😂🤣😅 "doing the front main seal is preventative maintenance." If you would have done preventative maintenance on the car from the start. Your belt would have never shredded.