6L80 Teardown and Inspection (Full Length Version - Please read description)
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- čas přidán 24. 07. 2024
- I show a teardown and inspection of a 2011 6L80 transmission in detail while covering all of the updates made to the transmission between 2007 and 2021. I also provide technical information on obtaining clutch clearances and validating assembly procedures were done correctly when you go back together with the unit. The video is long so you can use the TOC below to skip around or watch specific portions that are of interest to you.
Into & Overview - 00:00-03:23
TC Failure and Cause Discussion - 03:24-06:42
Main Case Disassembly: 06:43-36:18
Pump Inspection: 36:19-54:35
3-5-R Inspection: 54:37-1:24:30
4-5-6 Inspection: 1:24:31-1:40:36
Clutch Hubs 4-5-6 | 1-2-3-4 | 3-5-R: 1:40:37-1:44:36
Center Support (2-6 and Low Rev clutch assemblies): 144:37-2:17:09
Rear Gear Train: 2:17:10-2:22:00
* The correct nomenclature for the 6L family of transmissions is to express the transmission designation without the 'E' on the end, though many (including me) still sometimes refer to it as the '6L80E'.
Complete parts list for overhaul:
www.tahoeyukonforum.com/threa... - Auta a dopravní prostředky
I rebuilt several th400s and a couple 4l80e transmissions many years ago but have never been inside this model. Mine finally gave up the ghost this weekend so I'm researching whether to go through this one myself or just swap mine out with a rebuilt unit. The amount of time and effort you put into these videos must have been a massive undertaking, not to mention all the tech help you give in forums. It speaks volumes about the kind of person you are. Just wanted to say thank you.
Thank you for the kind words, DMHRC! Appreciate it....As far as going with your own build vs a reman, I'd build it yourself...This way you know exactly what went into it and that it was done correctly...Plus if there's a problem you can simply take it out and fix vs having to deal with exchanging (especially if you have to ship it back to the reman company for another one).
Plus you get to choose what parts you want insofar as upgrades; the cost in specialized tooling is broadly equivalent to what you'd pay in terms of labor to a shop or reman company anyways but instead of having that cost pay dividends once (maybe), the tools will be with you (along with the knowledge) for the rest of your life.
This is the most thorough and detailed 6L80 teardown and inspection video on the web. Thank you, Nick!
You're welcome and thank you for watching, David!
Best/most detailed video I've seen on these lines of Transmission's! Very nice job, this will definitely be saved to use on my upcoming rebuild
Thanks, Ben! I appreciate the kind words.
Finally finished, took lots of notes, thanks again Nick!
Awesome, thanks so much for watching, Swath diver!
Always enjoy a specialist at work. Great video!
Thanks for watching, Bryan - appreciate the kind words!
Awesome man!! I been waiting for this!
The wait is over! Thanks again, man.
Great video, VERY informative. Now on to the re-assembly video
Thanks, Ever443 - appreciate the kind words.
I love tear down videos!!!🔥🔥🔥
Thanks man, going to be doing more of them soon!
Planning a DIY rebuild, in my research phase right now, this is going to help big time.
Thanks, Jake...let me know if you have any questions once you get started...Couple things I'll recommend straight away to help w/your research:
1). Grab some additional clutch snap rings for the 1-2-3-4, 3-5-R and 4-5-6 clutch packs as you may need a different thickness to obtain your clearances
2). Purchase the Sonnax HD 3-5-R apply ring for the 3-5-R as well as the 4-5-6 piston kit as both kits will enable you to put an extra friction and steel in each clutch while omitting the cushion plates for a bit crisper shifts
3). Make sure you replace the return spring snap rings in the 3-5-R, 4-5-6 and low sprag as those like to pop out or break after overhaul if reused.
You can refer to my page on the TahoeYukon forum for more detailed info if you need it:www.tahoeyukonforum.com/threads/gm-6l80-transmission-information-thread.141927/
Please subscribe if you haven't already done so as I will be publishing several more 6L80 videos over the next couple months.
Wow, you put a ton of effort into this upload. I just saw the time. Hope you have a turbo 400 upload just like this sometime 👍
That's coming soon, Tim! Have a TH475 that ill be doing a full teardown and inspection on...Thanks for watching (in advance, haha)
@@nickstransmissions yessir, thank you
Nick another great video , buy the way don't know if you remember me but my c6 trans doing good thanks again on that save me a lot of money
Great to hear, Steve! Nice work getting it done and glad I was able to help.
So I have rebuilt a bunch of these units. Both the 6L80 and the 6L90. My build are mostly for stock applications however I always use a billet 1,2,3,4 piston from Sonnax (every unit gets one) and the Tow and Pro kit from TransGo gets installed in every unit as well. Anything else (mainly the pump and steels) is dependent on what I find during tear down. One out of maybe 5 has had an overheat issue and the pump is still in decent condition. However most get new pumps. I am curious if there are parts from the 90 that can be used in the 80 to increase durability. Input drums, apply pistons, front planets, etc? I am planning to look into this more on my own as I rebuild the next units that come in but I wonder if you have found anything thus far.
Hi Ross,
The 6L90s for Diesel applications have one more friction and steel than the 6L80s but you can account for that via Sonnax's 3-5-R HP apply ring and 4-5-6 piston kits. The hubs in the 6L90s are longer than those in the 80s so not interchangeable.
The gear sets (input and output) are stronger in the 6L90s; the input planet is six pinions and output planet's pinions are wider for more torque handling. In addition, the output shaft spline count is either 29 wide or 36 traditional splines.
You can further augment the output planet with a billet drive plate...
Another great detailed video Nick, thanks for taking the time to make these videos. Can you share the manufacturer and/or source for the tool you show for air checking the 3, 5, R drum? I know WIT sells a generic version but without the multiple test ports. Thank you.
Thank you, keltecfan! you can find the 3-5-R drum air checking tool on eBay...just search '6L80 tool' and scroll down about half way or so and it should be there in the listings. There's a few diff versions but that one is the best I've seen.
You definitely have mad skills. I've been trolling the 'net and some builders believe that the converter issues are not just due to an under-engineered converter, but also the TCC lockup strategy by GM that has lockup on in the lower gears, putting way too much stress on the converter. At least one guy out there goes into the software and disables lockup in, I think, 2nd and 3rd, and does some other mods too. I don't think I can mention his name but he's easy to find on uTube.
Thank you, Dan! Appreciate the kind words...And agree, the best tune update you can do for these units is eliminate TCC activity between 2nd and 4th gear, allowing it to lock up only in 5th and 6th. Pair that with TC with a .070 thick high energy clutch and flanged hub, recommended hydraulic correction kits like Sonnax Zip or Transgo's Repro kit and you'll have a great shifting transmission for a long time.
What do you call the metal rod connected from transmission that runs along transmission to the gear shifter in the car.. and is it meant to have play when in drive..or is there a bushing kit because mine is doing that
Hi Giuseppe, that is the parking rod assembly and consists of the rod itself and parking pawl actuator which is on the end of the rod and rests in the parking pawl housing. The rod is held in place by the rooster comb which is roll-pinned to the selector shift which has it's own roll pin on the case. It will have a little bit of play but shouldn't be loose like it's about to fall out...Hope that helps...let me know if you have any more questions and thank you for watching.
Nick! Great video! We put a new solenoid pack in my buddy's 6l80 and now if feels like it is but it won't shift or indicate. I'm hoping there's no programming needed to swap that part out but I'm also kind of thinking we just forgot to hook up the shift linkage cam back on the body link when we put it in. Thoughts?
Hi Shadow, thanks man!
I'm assuming you're referring to the TEHCM? If so, you'll need to confirm that TEHCM's part number matches the original one that came with the transmission. Otherwise you'll have to reprogram it to align with your ECM's operating software version for that make, model, sub-model, etc...Then you will need to do a fast adapt relearn...His best bet may be to either send that replacement back, purchase a programming subscription off of ACDelco's on-line service portal or have someone knowledgable reprogram it.
He an call any GM dealership, speak to 'Parts' and give them the last 8 characters of the VIN and they will tell him what part number TEHCM is needed for his vehicle/transmission.
Just curious if the 6l80 fits in the kent-moore bench stand or is it easier to just rebuild on the side? BTW awesome video and knowledge!!
Hi Eric, thank you. You will need a fixture made for the 6L80e as building these on their sides is difficult and not advisable and most fixtures that work on 4L60/4L80s arent wide enough. My 6L80E tool video gives you a good run-down of all the tools you will need including the fixture.
Hi Nick, I noticed that you don't mention anything about removing the lube dam on the planetary to clean out contaminates. What are your thoughts about removing the dam and installing a new Sonnax lube dam?
Please understand that I am not going to cover every single, granular aspect of a given transmission's rebuild in one video - it's basically impossible without having a video that's several hours long. You can certainly r/r or simply clean the pre-existing lube dam if you'd like as there's no harm in doing so. I will sometimes disassemble the entire rear planetary gear set or have it completely gone through if need be. I have more 6L80 videos to do where I cover stuff that hasn't been addressed yet but will be forthcoming soon.
@@nickstransmissions I totally understand. Thanks again so much for your help and time.
Hey Nick, great video. I have one question, what is the bolt on the passenger side of the pump body/bellhousing used for? I have fluid leaking from it and wanted to know it's purpose
Thanks Cory...That is your line pressure port tap...Remove it with a 7/16" socket, coat the threads with a thin layer of RTV Ultra black then reinstall it...As long as that's the only issue you're having, you'll be good to go.
@@nickstransmissions thanks a lot for that. It's a reman transmission and apparently they forgot to finish that process.
You're welcome, man...It's not supposed to have any sealant on those threads so it was never fully tightened or the threads in the housing (or plug or both) are boogered up to some extent...
There is a cast hole on underside near tail. What is the for and could it leak?
Right side @ 6:44 in video
Good eye and good question - I neglected to mention in the video but that hole is there to let you know the parking pawl housing o-rings have failed and fluid is leaking by. If both o-rings harden or are somehow cut, fluid will weep out of that little oval-shaped hole.
Hi my transmission started to shift hard and sometimes the rpm’s would shoot high would you know what causes this? Also would you happened to know if the shift solenoids are part of the tcm?
Hi Carlos, a whole bunch of things can cause those symptoms...What gears is this happening and when (i.e. when it's cold, hot, all the time, etc)?
@@nickstransmissions 5 and 6th gear it’ll do it when the transmission is hot I checked the transmission oil and it was low could this be the reason?
Could be; make sure your fluid level is correct then take it for another test drive and report back if you still have the issue.
Have you installed the new TransGo Tow and Pro shift kit? I have put three in now and I recommend it. Modifies several circuits including an innovative pump pressure regulator with a slightly larger boost valve. Really cleans up the shifts and makes this trans feel good. Included in the kit is instructions for going onto HP Tuner’s and changes to the shift tables to make “tire chirping” 1-2 and 2-3 shifts. I have yet to implement those changes but hope to on the right vehicle (it’s not mandatory). Kit is a little pricey but worth it IMO.
I haven't yet as I use the Sonnax Zip kit, which also has an upgraded pressure regulator, boost valve, TCC regulator and compensator feed valve assemblies...I have been debating trying it and do refer folks to their instructions for tuning w/HP Tuners, which is a handy bonus to have freely available on line.
I do like that Transgo provides all new clutch select valves (those are also available separately, and I have bought and used them before in conjunction w/the Sonnax kit). Other builders I know that use the kit also have given it very positive feedback.
With reference to the zip kit: can I separate the bell housing w pump as an assembly to install the zip kit parts, then bolt it back together? Or do I need to replace other things as well? Really don't wana go looking for worms in this can of worms.
I really don’t use the Sonnax kit that much anymore. I have found the TransGo Tow and Pro kit to be much better. The Sonnax kit is okay though and does have a lot of helpful information for someone not as familiar with the 6L80. Information such as bolt diagrams for the valve body as such. I reference to your question, yes the pump/bellhousing come out as an assembly. You will need to take the filter out and the valve body assembly (only 6 bolts and the pass through sleeve for the wiring harness). You will then need to separate the pump halves to be able to remove the pump pressure regulator/boost sleeve. This is a great unit to learn on! It is much easier than say a 4l60 (to me anyway) and much easier to get back together properly. Use your camera, take plenty of pictures, I like to use an engraving tool to mark things as well. Take the pump rotor, vanes, and slide out of the bell housing portion of the pump. If you finger nail drags or catches on the surface the rotor/slide runs on you are going to need to replace both halves of the pump (I have to on 95% of them) and the converter. This is an easy unit to work on but it’s also very expensive.
I was just wondering about the DT-48550 collet tool. If you just plan to replace the roll pin could you use a vise grip/slide hammer tool, basically just a slide hammer attached to vise grips? It would deform and destroy the pin, but save about 300 bucks. I love tools, but don't plan to rebuild more than a couple transmissions.
The tool only costs $40 or so - its one of those things you dont need to overthink when it comes to these transmissions...Plus you dont really need it for the selector shaft roll pin as long diag cutters and a hammer can also work.
But it or something like it is needed to remove the parking pawl housing roll pin. And that housing has to come out if the two orings on it are bad/leaking. If they're not then its a judgement call to leave as is.
Otherwise, $40 is cheap when it comes to specialised transmission tooling so considering you'll be spending at least $2500.00 in parts/machining to do it right, what's another $40?
I was finding the tool for about 300 to 400, but if I can't find it cheaper I might just measure the pin diameter and try a dowel pin puller. You are amazingly helpful by the way, thank you so much for your videos and answers.@@nickstransmissions
Thanks man, and you're welcome...just checked ebay and i paid $65; thought it was $40 (there may have been one or two listed at that time for that price). There is one on eBay now for $250 obo but not sure id pay that. Dowel puller will def work for the selector shaft roll pin and may also work for the other one as well...
Thanks for sharing. What is the normal operating temperature range? I'm curious what the high-end is, and what temp it (in theory) can sit at all day long.
Thanks for watching, Dan. 160-200 max is a healthy range for any transmission...To check fluid level it has to be at least 86 degrees while 200 is at the top end of what I'd consider "safe".
@@nickstransmissions Follow up, what would a 6L80 rebuild cost (approx... everyone is different), and is that worth it vs. buying a rebuilt unit? (ref. 2014 Yukon 4x4)
I charge anywhere from $3800+ depending on what's being done to the unit. Not sure what remanufactured 6L80s run as I have never a reason to price them. Rebuild vs reman: I would take a 6L80 rebuilt by a competent shop any day over a reman unit provided it comes with an acceptable warranty. But if you're in an area where there's a derth of such shops, a genuine GM reman unit is what I would do.
@@nickstransmissions thanks for taking the time to reply.
You're welcome, Dan. Thanks again for watching.
What are the primary causes of SMOKED 456 clutches and all the others look fine??? This is also on a transmission with under 1000 miles on it
Damn - this happened to your transmission? Does it have a tune? What friction module was installed? Was a hydraulic correction kit installed (i.e. Sonnax Zip kit)? Have you already torn the transmission down and that's how you know the 4-5-6 pack is smoked or are you guessing that's the issue?
If it has no tune or the tune is correct (i.e not the cause of the problem), that has to be either a complete and total gorilla job installing the pistons into the drum, cutting one of the lip sealing surfaces (all it takes is one), failure to replace very worn out turbine shaft sealing rings, failing to run the fast adapt relearn (either completely/correctly or at all) or excessive clearance in the pack, way beyond spec (this would have presented as a marked 3-4 flare shift in the first few drive cycles before the pack burnt down), cracked stator shaft at the 4-5-6 feed location,
Another possibility is a bad/defective drum, too much horsepower and WOT 3-4 upshifts, less than full fluid levels, partially clogged filter, the list goes on.
im going to changed theTC i have a 2016 chevy silberado 1500 6L80 transmission can you recommend the best torque converter ? thanks
Circle D, Yank, Florida Torque Converter, TCI all make upgraded converters w/thicker converter clutches compared to the factory TMBX converters (.020).
thanks a lot @@nickstransmissions
Hey Nick, any way i can send you my transmission and have you rebuild it ?! Haha, great video! I was planning to DIY it, but I'm not sure at this point. Maybe put a reman for the time being. Thanks once again!
Lol, thanks Edgar! See if you can score a good used unit somewhere then pull yours out to overhaul it, doing a little bit as you learn along the way. This way you can get acquainted with rebuilding these units, acquire all the tools you need for them without any time pressure, etc...The main thing with used 6Ls is that you have to ensure you get the same vintage of trans (ie year range) AND it has to come with a TEHCM with the same part number. Otherwise you'll have to reprogram it to work with your ECM and corresponding operating system version. You can call any GM dealership, speak to 'Parts' and give them the last 8 characters of your VIN and they will tell you what part number you need.
How different is the 6l90 internally? Anything in particular to watch out for that is different?
Hi Chris, thanks for watching...The hubs and parking rod assembly are longer and the diesel 6l90s had an extra friction and steel in the clutch pack. The 6L90 is appx 6-8 inches longer than the 6L80 overall. If the reason your asking is you're exploring doing a swap, you'll need to completely reprogram your TEHCM's OS as well as move the trans x-member back accordingly, etc...If so, I'd just build your 6L80 with the requisite performance updates/upgrades to make it stronger to handle whatever application you have intended for the vehicle.
Thank you for watching!
Thanks for the reply! I originally have a 6l90 (behind a 6.0 gas engine), just having a hard time finding as good of a video that’s 6l90 specific. Hoping this would be enough to get me by
This video will address all your 6L90 questions other than part numbers, which are going to be different for some of the components as mentioned above but insofar as what to inspect, check for and install on overhaul, it's all the same including the clutch clearance specifications.
ATSG has a handy guide for clutch clearances for the three drums that use selective snap rings, you can view it here: atsgmembers.com/memarea/bulletins/bulletins/18/18-33.pdf
Just do your best to aim for the middle of the spec range for each and you'll be fine.
HI Nick, where is your shop? My 6L80E is probably on the way out.
Hi Josh, thank you for reaching out!
I'm out West (SoCal region)...Where are you located?
Hi Nick, I'm in the middle of rebuilding my 6L80. Your video is super helpful. Everything has gone really well. Although, I have tried to rebuild the 456 sprag with a new kit from Sonnax. But I have had a hell of a time getting the snap ring back in. After numerous tries I decided to mic the new sprag replacement insert and mic the original insert. The new insert from Sonnax is 5000ths thicker. Have you ever experienced this.The snap ring pops right in with all the original parts. Am I doing something wrong?
.
Hi Koelzspeed - There is no 4-5-6 sprag. The only sprag clutch in the 6L transmissions is located in rear half of the center support. You need to tell me what you are referring by the word "sprag" but use the correct terminology so I know what you're actually referring to.
Beyond that, the front three clutch packs all have selective snap rings so if you're unable to get the origional clutch snap ring back in you'll need to find a thinner snap ring. Sonnax's instructions should provide all the other info you need for setting up that drum with their piston kit. Double check everything to ensure nothing is installed upside down and/or backwards.
I'm so sorry. Its late. I'm referring to the sprag in the center section.@@nickstransmissions
No worries, just wanted to confirm which part of the trans you were referring to. Assuming you installed it with the snap ring ends straddling the blind spline on the support, it should go right in; 005" shouldnt make a difference.
Also, is the snap ring the same one that came off the unit origionally?
@@nickstransmissions I have taken the whole assembly apart a couple of times. I have cleaned and inspected it. As you probably know, the Sonnax rebuild kit comes with the new sprag, top plate and snap ring.I measured the new and old snap rings. They are both the same size. And I have tried using them both. I know it sounds crazy but the new parts will not allow either snap ring to go in. Is there an up or down side of the sprag when you install it in the outer race? I haven't tried installing the copper colored side pieces and sprag separately. I probably should try that. I was just wondering if you ever had it happen to you. Thanks.
Sorry, no that hasn't happened to me but I generally use OEM Borg Warner sprag assemblies, haven't used the Sonnax sprag kit before so not super-familiar with it. Sounds like something is out of spec with the new parts...The sprag element itself is direction, meaning there is a correct orientation so that the inner splined portion freewheels clockwise when holding the outer race as your looking at it just before you install it onto the center support.
It may be worth a call to Sonnax tech support to see if someone there can help but it sounds like you have been assembling it correctly, assuming your assembly is freewheeling clockwise as described above.
Lastly, I asked about the snap ring that holds the entire assembly in place onto the center support once it's splined on, not the snap ring that comes in the Sonnax sprag kit that holds the assembly itself together. The snap ring I'm referring to is about 3 inches or so in diameter...That needs to be replaced on overhaul as it can break after going back in. Same with the snap rings for the apply + balance pistons in the 3-5-R and 4-5-6 clutch drums.
What is your opinion in converting to 2wd without out changing output shaft
I have never done that, not sure that you can...The output shafts are of different lengths and different years/models had different lengths of output shaft for both 2WD and 4WD.
If you're looking to swap shafts, I would do it the right way by tearing the transmission down and swapping to the correct shaft for your intended application. You can refresh the unit while you have it apart and install the Sonnax zip kit or Transgo Reprogramming kit as well as the billet piston for the 1-2-3-4 and weld up the 3-5-R drum so it doesn't start leaking.
Any way someone can tell me what transmission fits in my 02 Silverado 1500 with the 4.3 it won't go past 2k rpm in drive but if I manually shift it I can go to 4k
Any 01-05 4L60E will work provided it has the correct bell housing bolt pattern and matches your drivetrain (2WD or 4WD). Watch my video on shopping for used 4L60Es so you know what to look for and how to inspect to improve your odds of buying a good one: czcams.com/video/nG8VYHKSMv0/video.html
Thanks so much its 2wd
Any way you can tell me what is wrong with my current one
Need a lot more information then what was provided to attempt an internet diagnosis...When did it start (was it shifting/behaving normally prior?), mileage on the trans, what exactly it's doing (not going past 2k or 4k tells me very little apart from what your tach is doing), in what gears do the symptoms happen (1st, 2nd, 3rd, 4th). I'd stick a 2-way scan tool on it and drive it around with live transmission data displayed on the screen to see what gear is being commanded by the PCM and when and what gear you are actually in (i.e count number of upshifts and downshifts). Look at TC efficiency/duty cycle, shift speed times, etc.
Man I have just gotten to where I go ahead and mount the core on the holding fixture, turn it backside down with a drain pan underneath. Saves my table from getting flooded with old nasty fluid (for the most part) and then all I need to do is keep the drain pan empty.
I do that for really big transmissions like 6R140s and Allisons...otherwise i would need a huge bench for those monsters...
Can 2013 6l80 be swapped with 2014 6l80e?? Is it just output shaft that’s different?
Hi Kirsren, the output shaft assembly changed in 2012 with the introduction of the "unigear" compound ring gear which also resulted in output shaft length for 2012+ relative to 2006-2011. In 2014, an 8th checkball was introduced however the 2010+ valve bodies are all provisioned for it and it can be retroed to those years 2010-2013 if using the 2014+ spacer plate. Beyond that, the main factor in interchageability in 6L80s is the operating system software version loaded onto the vehicle's ECM/TEHCM. To confirm or deny a match between your vehicle and another 6L80 you need to match the TEHCM's part number on any replacement with your transmission. If they dont match, you'll need to reprogram the TEHCM on the replacement transmission.
Your best bet is to either rebuild your current trans or purchase a GM reman unit as they come with a 3-year/100,000 mile warranty.
@@nickstransmissions thanks for the quick response. My brother had just put a new trans in his 2013 Yukon 2wd and totaled it. I can get the trans for $2500 where as all the pricing I’ve gotten was $4k+. The truck with burnt trans is a 2014 gmc sierra 4x4. Was wondering if i had both trans i could make the one good one.
If you're going to take them both apart then you should be able to rebuild yours using some of the hard parts inside the donor trans (you will still need to have the pump assembly remachined, 3-5-R drum welded at the base, etc) but they're not interchangeable as entire assembled units.
Will 2 sizes over size than stock 245, tires cauase harsh up shifts in 2nd and 3rd and back 3rd to 2nd do i need to tune it for those tires
hi Byron, thank you for watching...
What size tires on your truck (27" overall diameter?) and what is your final drive ratio?
@@nickstransmissions it has 373 gears with 6L90 6 speed it dont go into 6th grear unless im doing 65 mph way to tall of gears there 285 ,70r,17 do i need to have the trans tuned to those size tires?
@@nickstransmissions they rebuilt it a billet converter new bellhousing and pump but it still 3rd to 2nd and 2nd to 3rd still to hard do i need to find a trans shop to tune it to those tires it was 4000 to rebult it
Hi Byron, more than likely you will need a tune so the powertrain as a whole 'knows' what size tires you have installed. 33" tires and 3.73s should be ok but it seems the hard shifting may be linked to the mis-match between what the ECM thinks your tire size is and what it actually is (affects TPS, specifically)...After you get the tune done, fast adapt relearn performed it should be fine...If not, there's likely some issues with the transmission and/or torque converter.
@@nickstransmissions thanks dude for your wizdom where can you get a tune on the tranny done at. Or whatever they do.
Were are is your shop located
Hi Ruben, thank you for watching.
I'm in the far southwest, SoCal region.
Where are you located?
How much play should be between the 35r drum and stator washer?
Hi Scott, you should see between .040-.050 if measuring a factory original transmission...It will likely be tighter if the unit has been gone through or remanufactured by one of the companies in the aftermarket.
Thank you for watching.
What is the tightest you would like to see? I'm measuring .041" so it's within specs, but still seems like a lot compared to earlier gm models that I've worked on. The sonnax stator washer would tighten it up to .021" which sounds much better to me, but I don't want to get it too tight. FYI My overall endplay checked at the turbine shaft is .011" after adding the shim at the damper. Thanks Nick! Great vids and information!@@nickstransmissions
.041 is tolerable but your instincts are correct in that it should be a bit tighter than that. I'd install the Sonnax washer and see how it shakes out from there. Here's a GEARS Magazine article that gets into the weeds when it comes to setting up proper end play in the 6Ls: gearsmagazine.com/magazine/the-devils-in-the-details-a-machinists-look-at-the-6l80-6l90-units/
Good info there and I build my 6Ls following that same general school of thought (tight is right).
Your awesome man! Thanks for the help!!!@@nickstransmissions
Thanks, man!
Why does my 6l90 have a bad clunk downshift from 3rd to 2nd
Could be any number of things but clunky, bumpy shifts usually points to wear in the compensator feed system. The other, common cause is intermittent weakness or faults with one or more of the TEHCM's pressure switches.
I'll be doing a video soon on the Compensator Feed system in these transmissions explaining what it is, how it works as well as diagnosing / trouble shooting drivability symptoms associated with that system.
Thanks man how you check a pressure switches
Hi Byron, sorry - didn't see this reply...You can check pressures by threading a transmission pressure gauge into the 7/16" pressure port tap location on the case. Then get in, fire it up and see what pressures you have in each of the range settings (Park, Reverse, Neutral, Drive, Manual mode)
Just couldn't keep the 4l80 could they
Nope, they had to go and fix what wasn't broken....Thanks for watching, Byron!
Sir my problem is my transmission is not shifting it sticks only 6 gear
Stucks 6 th gear hope reply fast
So when you start the vehicle, put it in 'Drive', your transmission is showing as being in 6th gear? What happens when you put the transmission into 'Manual' mode? How long ago did this start happening and was the transmission functioning normally prior to?
If you're in limp mode at start up or if something puts it into limp mode when in 1st, 2nd or 3rd gear, the transmission will default to 3rd gear. If the problem occurs when in 4th, 5th or 6th gear, the transmission will default to 5th gear.
If the unit is literally in 6th gear from start up to driving to shut off, the 2-6 clutch and 4-5-6 clutch are applied while the 1-2-3-4, 3-5-R clutch packs and rear sprag are off/freewheeling. That would indicate a serious problem with either the TEHCM and/or valve body, if so.
Any follow up or additional questions?
I'm curious to see what you learn to be the cause of that issue.
Hey Nick..how to contact and email?? I need your help regarding to my 2016 Yukon 6L80
Hi Doncarlo, thank you for watching...If you have questions about the 6L80, please post them here and I will respond as soon as I'm able to.
I got it 😅😅😅 but already sent you a question in another vidoe ..what are the parts i need to rebuild my trans and valve body to make better and stay for long time??
Ok. Take a look at this thread for a comprehensive parts list for all 6L transmissions, including the 6L80: www.tahoeyukonforum.com/threads/gm-6l80-transmission-information-thread.141927/
@skutahuniai4830: If that's all it cost then fine. Hard to imagine though in this day and age that one with a vast array of tools(visible on your videos) doesn't have a mig welder. They can be used for more than welding truck frames! 🤣🤣
Here's your orig comment (i deleted it by accident when i went to delete my initial response)
Skutahuniai:
I can imagine that roll pin puller is a far chunk of change. Sorry to buck your statement that "you won't get it out without it". Wannna bet? 😁😁 Weld a length of all-thread to the roll pin, Place a deep socket over this and then a washer and nut. Turn the nut down and out she comes. Bet you could buy a picnic basket full of roll pins for the price of that tool.
My responses to both: That tool is $30-40 on ebay and readily available. I own a welder but its not kept in the transmission rebuild area and dont use it often.
If there was one tool that can be easily fabbed where its worth the effort and cost savings, its the large snap ring pliers. $20 for the tips, $10 or so for the lengths of scrap steel and a nut/bolt/washers for the hinge joint.
I would NOT recommend anyone weld anything to those roll pins ever. Great way to overheat and warp that hole location and destroy a perfectly good case. Buy or fab the right tools for the job.
Lucky for you, I didnt take you up on that bet.Look up some of these tools or anything else next time. Like you, im a stickler for accurate information. Thanks for watching.
Officially, these transmissions never had the "E" at the end.
Yep, you're right, good call out. Old habits die hard, haha...I must not be the only one who chronically puts the "E" on the end as when I do a goole search using the correct "6L80" nomenclature , tons of results come up where the web page/site the "E" on the end. All of them are retailers listing parts, whole transmissions, discussion forums or entire transmissions. Even GM uses the 'E' on their web page for the 'Supermatic' version of that trans, likely due to knowing folks will put the 'E' on the end, not realizing it doesn't need to be there. I only see it correctly listed as, "6L80" in the official literature/manuals. I'll update the description w/a note.
Thanks again for watching!
@@nickstransmissions Yep they do, just used to it I guess. Took me some to break the habit too!
Not sure what 3/8 electric impacts you've used, but that Milwaukee should do 53 lb-ft in reverse EASILY. The newest "compact" model will do 250 lb-ft...
Thanks for watching, Brandon. Funny you mention Milwaukee's 3/8 impact. I just ordered one the other day to compliment my Milwaukee 1/2 compact impact. When that video was shot I was using my Mac (DeWalt) 3/8 impact.
@@nickstransmissions Hell yeah! You'll really like the Milwaukee. I couldn't tell you the last time I picked up my 1/2" for anything other than REALLY seized suspension stuff.
Yep, it should be good to go! I have their long ratchet, work light and heat gun - all work great. Will prob pick up their 1/4 impact as well for reassembly.
Witchcraft, wizardry!
Thanks, John!