How to replace a front wheelbearing Golf mk4 and other VAG models
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- čas přidán 4. 10. 2016
- This week I replace a front wheel bearing on a Volkswagen Golf mk4 1.8T. This DIY is also useful for more VAG models like Audi A3
Parts/Tools used:
amazon affiliate link
www.amazon.co.uk/shop/thedutc...
*Disclaimer
We, The Dutch Garage, are not responsible for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. Information given in this video does not guarantee the desired outcome. Any injury, damage or loss that may result from improper use of the tools, equipment, or the information contained in this video is the sole responsibility of the user and not The Dutch Garage. - Auta a dopravní prostředky
I watched your vid for hub nut tightening . I didn’t really understand the instructions in the manual, but then it made sense when matching your instructions. Thanks Dutch garage from Canada.
Just to add, I have watched dozens if not more videos on how to change cv axles and hub bearings by popular channels and none of them ave ever shown how to properly torque the axle nut. I have the VW repair instructions and you followed it to the letter. It's one thing to read the instructions but much more informative to see it done. Kudos for taking the extra time to show this very important step. Great vid, 9 out of 10 rating. Cheers.
Thanks for the kudos, and you're right about the axle. I could have mention that.
The comment @ 9:34 would have been my assessment at the beginning of the video, I've never see a wheel bearing that bad and remain intact. Good video guys, have to do this on my Audi TT, looks the same set up, thanks
Thank you and yes, all these cars are simmulair if not the same. Just be sure to check the torque specs for the axle nut of your car.
Very glamorous how he does everything and he stutters and he tries to explain what you have to do and you could just do it real quick like. At least she doesn't want to stick its face shot totally in the camera
Great video, very detailed without taking too long doing it. Just a note, mk4 VW vehicles have a inner cv joint that is bolted onto the transmission , they don't connect via a spline shaft thus there is no transmission oil leak when removing the axle. Very easy to remove.
Great DIY video!
Thank you sir. Your torque specs and sequence was extremely helpful.
No problem!
Well done guys. Thanks for amazing video.
Thank you! just doing our part.
I had to completely destroy my axel nut, I tried everything I had except for a very long pipe. I stood on the thing even back the car up on the breaker bar, it took a few days of drilling and bashing, unfortunately I ruined my wheel hub in the process and now I'm here smh. Good video.
That sucks, fortunately you can buy new wheel hubs and there not that expensive. Is the axle still usable? i can imagine that the thread is also mangle.
Don't have a VW but this is one of the best videos I've ever seen.
Thank you!
The manual states to torque the wheel bearing when the bearing is NOT preloaded with the cars own weight as it will shorten bearing life
Then your manual is different then mine. I do think either way is fine.
Thumbs up for actually showing a method for removing the inner race from the hub. For some reason everyone thinks this isn't important √°-° like really?! It's the one thing that messes you up if you haven't done this before.
The inner race is always a hassle. You don't want to cut to deep but also not to little. And then try to split it, sometimes it can take a lot of time just to get it off. Thanks for the comment!
Great video. Thank you!
No problem.
Great job!!!
Thank you! I hope it helpt you.
Can you give me a dimension of tools to extract the bearing , because i want make one .Thank you !
i bought my 2001 jetta in 2011 and i still have the same front pads from the previous owner (70k miles). I've replaced the rear pads at least 3 times. It appears that these cars are rear biased when braking. Year models 99-01 have the same brake module. great video.
The rear calipers are just a bad design they get stuck very easily. That's probably the reason why the rear wears a lot quicker then the fronts.
Something wrong in your rear. Replaced my 2000 VR6 rears maybe once or twice in the past 20 years. Fronts? Maybe three times. Rust is the biggest enemy at his age. Akebono for dust free.
I hope he’s kidding about the 40 min everything else he done is on point great video 👌🏽
Nope, 40 min. I never ever had one stuck like this one. Thanks for watching!
Great video, thank you 1 question: can you please post the PSI equivalent to Nm, thank you in advance
some ideas to improve this process. I think it's easier to remove the entire strut/knuckle assembly from the car and hammer out the hub from the back... only 2 more nuts, tie rod and the top strut nut and you don't have to remove the caliper carrier. Before removing the assembly paint the bottom 3 bolts/control arm for the ball joint so it can be lined up on reinstall and no alignment needed. Second to remove the inner race from the hub I used a 3 arm puller with a hose clamp wrapped around it tightened up real nice and it came off easy once I read about the hose clamp idea otherwise it wasn't gripping. No grinding, or damage to the hub.
Hallo, thank you for your input. In some cases it is a better thing to do but it is also more time consuming and changes that you damage other parts also. But it is all up to you there are more than one way to do stuff.
genius with the hose clamp. might have to try that.
great vidéo ! but one reason for bad bearing is that There is no more back plate, you should install one ! Thats why mine was scrap 😉
Thanks for the comment, but I don't think that's the issue. The splash shield is still installed but its a very small one. But thanks for the input!
Tyrene hånds.. Thats cool :-)
Excellent video. No risk of damaging the ball joint while using the slide hammer? I assume once complete an alignment will be required?
Thanks again from Colorado, USA!
Hallo, thank you for the compliment! And that is a really good question I never tough about that. And I think the impact it makes doesn't hurt the ball joint. because there sharp burst of load. I think hitting the curb will have more impact. But still your right the ball joint takes the beating also.Technically you don't need a alignment, we don't adjust the suspension. But I think it is always a good idee. No thank you! Groningen, The Nederlands
So did using the cutting wheel help the inner race that was still on the wheel hub relieve some of the pressure? Or was it mostly just wedging the cold chisel between the hub and the race and pounding on it to help separate the two?
You make a slit into the metal race, and than use a chisel to crack the metal race. Then there is no clamping force anymore. The race is hardened so its really tough but also very brittle.
Thanks for a very instructive video. I am doing this job now, but after reinstalling the hub I have noticed substantial amount of wobble when wrinkling the hub, holding it hub at 12 and 6 o’clock. Is that ok since I have not tighten up the hub nut yet? Or could it be that the bearing is not pressed in completely? The locking ring is in place.
This must be gone when you tighten the hub nut if it is still wobbling then the shaft is sticking inside the hub. Be sure to clean the splines.
@@TheDutchGarage Okay, thanks a lot guys
Thank you so much. Do you have Amazon link for bearing tool extractor?
No problem, i also made a video about the tool. czcams.com/video/LHytrFuN8fY/video.html ther are a couple of ebay links in there. but this is what i found on amazon www.amazon.com/OrionMotorTech-23-Piece-Adapters-Replacement-Installer/dp/B01FLVOAZI/ref=sr_1_38_sspa?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1547541655&sr=1-38-spons&keywords=bearing+puller&psc=1 it is not the same kit but it would work the shame.
Really amazing video. I hate this job lol
Thank you!
Is it very important to torque the axle nut in that particular order? I changed my wheel bearing a couple of months back, and I was not aware of this method. Lately it started making noises from the wheel again, and I checked today that the bearing seems to be completely broken, yet again...I just need to know where I went wrong the first time, and maybe this was it?
I don't think it is that important. With this method they just know for sure that the axle is all the way in the hub. It will ruin your bearing if you don't have that.
super.
+Razvan Popa youre welcome, thanks for watching!
nice video very informative. Can you comment that i just changed the bearing and now the ABS locking when stopping the car on the same wheel? i have cleaned the sensor it did not help. I read somewhere that the other side wheel bearing need to be changed also ?
Hi, Is it possible that you maybe bend the abs disk that sits on the hub? It that thing is bend then the sensor can misread things.
@@TheDutchGarage I would lean more towards it being a possibly damaged or worn out caliper wo any more information.
@@emotionalintelligence776 It is possible offcouse, but (at least how i read it) he didn't have that issue before he removed te bearing.
is there a kit out there that has all the discs and cups you need to press out the bearing and then press the new bearing back in?
Hi, there is a universal kit that works for 95% of the time. these are the common (ebay) kits and there cheap.
Can you say exactly what race installer kit you have? I'm looking for one that has the disks with the cups.
I think the all the cheaper ones are the same. Link below is not the one i have but like a said they all look the same to me. www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Front-Wheel-Drive-Bearing-Removal-Adapter-Puller-Pulley-Tool-Kit-Master-Set/391983166387?epid=17015759172&hash=item5b440473b3:g:k3QAAOSw4HxZm-LN
Google spying on me again I was just doing this job on my a4 today. My outer race is welded to the knuckle I couldn’t get it out. Ran a bunch of welds on it and called it quits hopefully when the welds cool it shrinks it enough to come free
Good vid. However, as a rule of thumb, the hub is almost always replaced with a new unit, they are so inexpensive it's a waste of time not to. Cheers.
If you don't want the hassle then sure buy a new hub. But i'm a cheap dutch guy :-)
Dont use torque wrench as braker bar you will destroy it.
That is true.
What size rear disk is required, I'm looking at kits, the bearing is 74mm but most kits have a 72mm disk.
72mm one should be good, because then it will have one millimeter to the side all around. Exactly the same diameter could get stuck.
Damn spell control.. I meant three hands.. Thats cool :-)
Thanks for watching!
I should use your torque wrench as breaker bar
I dont think thats a really good idea, i dont think torque wrenches like that kind of abuse. And there can be expensive as hell. Better of buying a proper breaker bar. Thanks for taking the time to watch and post a comment.
Just a heads up, the slide hammer in the affiliate link does not have the adapter to do this job. Be careful when ordering
REALLY? basterds it also happend with my kit. I did get one when I complaint about it but that was years ago. I will have a look into that.
Wasn't aware any Mk4s came with calipers that DIDN'T require a caliper rewind tool to push the pistons back?
Only the rear calipers you need a rewind tool. The reason is that the handbrake is integrated in the caliper nowadays. That why you don't need to use it on the front calipers.'
Ahh of course 👍
I have a 2001 Jetta that the wheel bearings are bad if I fix this problem will it take the ABS and traction control lights off my cluster
Sorry dont think so, the abs sensor ring isn't in the bearing like some other cars. But you can clean the ring and sensor when you replace the bearing.
Thinks gr8 video by the way
Thank you!
What size did u youse om the back Side to hold THE wheelbearing when u pressed in the hub ?
I don't know anymore, but the biggest one that could fit in the hole.
@@TheDutchGarage thanks i fitted a 60 mm pressed againts it 😁🤟
Glad it worked out.
9:33 at least he found the problem lol
The thread of the press bolt should be well lubed
Some oil goes a long way indeed.
Can you put a impact gun on this tool for the bearings ?
You can but it will shorten the life of the tool. What I sometimes do is crack it bij hand and then use an impact.
@@TheDutchGarage this is a very good idea thak you ;)
I'm dreading changing my bearing. Looks like such a pain in the ass
This is an extreme case. But be sure you have a slide hammer and a bearing press tool.
@@TheDutchGarage I've got a bearing press tool which did advertise to also remove a bearing as well but I will look into the hammer
Removing the bearing yes, but most of the time the pins including for removing the hub doesn't fit.
Can you give me a dimension of tools to extract the bearing, because I want make one. Thank you!
Hi! Only of the disk i hope?
The both pieces its perfect but if you had only the disc .ok
Did you forget about me
Nope, but if you can hang on till next week I have a idea. Or do you need it like this instand?
Ok ! I can wait until next week.
What wheels are on the car? I like them a lot.
These are Boavista VW wheels. Thanks for the comment!
The Dutch Garage they are very nice! I just looked them up and they seem to only be available in Europe! Ugh
Really? Not even replicas?
The Dutch Garage nope. Cannot find them anywhere. Everything comes up for Europe. 😩
That's crap, a repro set over here is 400 euro. The original is also not that hard to get.
VW brake pads are diff than american cars- they need to be spun back with the special kit, not by channel locks or C clamp; I ruined a brake caliper that way
Hallo, only the rear brake calliper you need to spun back becourse of the handbrake system in the calliper.
That's just the rear calipers, and most all makes (Cadillac, Ford, Nissan, etc) that happen to use an integral parking brake require that step-and special tool.
The first clue that you do not know what you're talking about is you confused not just Brake calipers for Brake pads, but what is required to do the rear brakes on a VW which has nothing to do with this video. So plz go finish your beer or finish that herb and leave the car stuff to people who at least know which part is which. Cheerz.
Mike Villiams lol
I did this with my drivers side. I used a 5lb sledge to put the bearing in hammering lightly on the outer race, then used a press tool like this one to seat in, same process with the hub, and I braced the inner race when using the press, I’m not sure I seated the hub far enough, the abs light is on all the time, but worst of all it seems like the bearing was never replaced, I still have wobble when driving or decel around 80km/h. I torqued the axel nut properly and played around with it, but I’m probably going to turn it till it stops and go for a drive. I’m lost.
That sucks, were you able to remove the axle easy or was it a nightmare? if it was hard then it can be that you werend abel to put it back all the way. That happend to me also.
Easy to remove the axel. Slide hammer was about 5 mins or less. I think the hub destroyed the new bearing or was not installed correctly. I will buy the correct tool and do it again. Question, on a new bearing do the inner races have free play to move side to side before install? I ask because mine did and I was told it was normal.
Yes that is normal, be sure that you support the bearing at the back when pressing in the wheel hub.
What is the name of that tool
Slide hammer and the other is a bearing removal tool.
No bearing grease?
No, these are pre-packed. Thanks for watching.
So no need to put grease on outside of bearing?
Yes, just a bit to help it slide in.
Ok i have the red bearing grease
Wd 40 or any kind of grease will be fine.
Hahahaha @ 9:32
And did you had the winning number? :)
Sorry I meant foot pounds, I found my answer, thank you anyway.
+sam kahill a ok, if you have any other questions please ask.
Any one recommend what tool he used to get that bearing out lol
I do:-). This bearing was the worst I ever did. A hydraulic press is also a option.
@@TheDutchGarage just I’m having similar problem with my Audi the driveshaft is stuck in the hub and the process you done looks like the same way I will have to approach it I do my work myself and that’s why I was wondering what the tool was you used as it looks like I will be able to do it myself with that , plus I don’t have a hydraulic press i would need to take hub off to get it pressed and I can’t cos driveshaft lol
You need to put that jack out of its misery :)
NO, it must suffer...forever!
you don't ever use a torq wrench as a breaker bar lol or ever use it to loosen, bet that thing is all kinds of not accurate
Sure thing it is a bad habit. But it still pretty accurate when I had it last checked.
esy on an audi
About to try your sliding hammer and bearing remover, installer techniques on a 2002 Jetta TDI, right front. Here's what it looks like czcams.com/video/MlkP2YsjlFs/video.html. Any pointers, comments appreciated.
Great video. It looks like every other vw of that time. Remove the cv joint first then put the strut back on the ball joint. Then start removing the hub with the slide hammer. It's practically the same as in the video.
Lights what's up with the lights how come you people don't work into it with lights you like working in the dark. I guess you can save a few pennies by keeping the lights down low.
True, I do see quite well in the dark. But for the camera it sucks. I do believe i didn't have my studio lights back then. Good times good times.
i hope u dont do everything the hard way
Sometimes just for fun...:-)