Bench Grinder Toolrests
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- čas přidán 25. 09. 2017
- How to make a set of improved tool rests for the ubiquitous 6-inch import bench grinder. This one is from Harbor Freight, and it needs help.
In this video, I CNC mill a set of tool rests and attach them rigidly to the frame of the grinder.
Drawings are available in the blog post here: clough42.com/2017/09/26/new-ma...
Bonus footage of the machining: • Bonus Footage: Machini...
RetroFuture Clean Kevin MacLeod (incompetech.com)
Licensed under Creative Commons: By Attribution 3.0 License
creativecommons.org/licenses/b... - Věda a technologie
Nicely done, both the work and the video explaining it.
Thanks! I appreciate the feedback.
Hey James, not sure if you'll see this comment on such an old video, but I have to say I'm super impressed with the video and audio quality on your earliest videos! Your editing has massively improved in the past 5 years, not that this was bad by any means.
I have been researching 6 " bench grinders and your analysis and solution to the tool rest is excellent. I found also that on most of the 6 inch bench grinders the original tool rests have the same problem. Trying to locate finished replacement parts to "upgrade" (improve) a 6 inch grinder has been an issue. The only tools I have are two power drills, one hand jig saw and a 7 1/4 inch saw . Not quite the right tools to fabricate the tool rests you have made. :-)
My main purpose for a bench grinder would be to sharpen lawn mower blades . Thank you.
Yeah. It's kind of a smoke 'em if you've got 'em situation. CNC is definitely not required. You could totally do the same thing by cutting off sections of angle with a hacksaw and drill the mounting holes with a hand drill. If you wanted to take the time, you could clean up all the edges with a file and even make a slot with a drill and files. It's more work, but could still get the job done.
You should consider marketing this. Thanks for the video.
You're welcome.
Absolutely class all round, Ty for sharing
Great Idea, the most Rigid one I have seen.
Elegant solution, could be produced and sold for some extra coin in your pocket man! Great job I wish I had a milling machine and a little lathe
Exellent and inspiring.
Very clever James! Excellent solution to a pesky problem :) I'm going to keep this idea in mind as I improve my home-shop-grade bench grinder. Right now I'm still working on getting the vibration down, so I'll also be whipping up a set of new flanges.
Thanks. To get my wheels running true, I turned up some new 3"x 1/4" thick flanges. The stamped sheet metal ones were really uneven. I also had to clean up the shoulder on the motor shaft. I ended up disassembling the motor, taking the shaft out and putting it in the lathe. A friend of mine did the same operation, but he didn't even take the motor apart. He just put one end of the shaft in a 4-jaw chuck, put a live center in the other end and turned it on the lathe with the grinder body just hanging there on the shaft!
I also popped out the rotor/shaft and put in in my lathe. Unfortunately my bed isn't long enough to put it between centers, so I had to compromise some and couldn't get both bearing journals accessible (outside the chuck) at the same time. It was way out of true. I was able to improve it, but there's more to be done I think, we'll see how it goes. I've been thinking it's time for a bigger lathe, so maybe that's the solution. That makes sense, right? Spend a couple grand to improve a $50 grinder? Makes sense to me somehow :)
@@Clough42 were you primarily truing or did you have to resize and use new bearings or an adapter?
@@TSPhotoAtlanta just truing the shoulder. It was probably okay originally, but had gotten mangled by the stock flanges.
Great solution. I like the use of aluminium angle; I have heaps of it lying around but wouldn't have thought to use it.
I have none, what's a good source for it as scrap?
@@TSPhotoAtlanta Aluminium window and door manufacturers usually have heaps.
Hi, James! Just re-watched this video to remind me of your solution. I recently upgraded to an 8" Delta and decided to make it a combo machine, using the right side for grinding and the left for deburring, adding an 80 grit white wheel & 8" Scootch Brite (i.e., not 3M) wheel. The Delta came with decent toolrests, other than having a deep, angled groove in the left-side one (supposedly to make grinding drill bits easier - I use my Drill Dr. to make grinding drill bits easier). The overall build of the 8" Delta is heavier and more rigid than other low-end bench grinders, so I don't have much flex on the toolrest, and since I removed the guards on the left side I can't add the stiffening bar; however, I may replace the inner right guard with heavier gauge material. I also need to make a removable guard for the left side so I don't bump into the deburring wheel while grinding (an accident waiting to happen).
The real reason for my comment is to suggest replacing the SHCS's with shop-made knurled (or fluted) knobs with long enough shafts to bring the knobs out past the toolrests (I really wish CZcams would allow including photos or PDF's in comments!). One could even use the original knobs, adding a long length of M6 threaded rod Loctited into the knob with a tube (or piece of 1/8" pipe: 6.8mm ID; handy stuff readily available in black steel or brass) slid over the threaded rod to space out the knob.
Best regards & keep the videos coming, Charlie
Thanks for the comment. I considered making knobs, but decided I could get a more positive locking action with the wrench, and since the wrench is sitting in a rack within arms' reach of the grinder, it was hard to justify the time and effort.
@@Clough42 Makes sense, plus you probably won’t be making adjustments until you true up the wheel.
I was having a problem trying to grind HSS, I could not get the wheel to cut. So I called a friend of mine that has his own machine shop to ask him what was the best wheel to use, he has been a machinist for a long time. He told me he gets a kick out of some of the videos on youtube when he sees someone dress a grinding wheel with a diamond then ties to grind HSS, he said you will be there all day. So I got out my Desmond wheel dresser and redressed my grinder wheel and wow what a difference it made. A diamond dressed wheel is great for the finish edge but it sucks when you are trying to rough the tool in.
Hope this comment helps someone else out
Cheers
The tool rests on my old Craftsman pre-block grinder are on a horizontal rod that is part of the frame for the grinder.
Excellent!! Thank you for sharing! My only concern with the cross brace would be with adjusting the guards - they would have to both be in the same position - which is probably how you want it anyway. The youtube channel Blondihacks has a 4 part video about building a tool rest for her bench grinder. She also identified the horizontal torsion in the sheet metal guards. Her solution was to add a brace from one of the mounting holes on the bottom of the grinder to the guard for each side. Your method is probably stiffer but hers allows for independent adjustments. Thought you might be interested to hear another method.
New response to an old comment: The toolrests are independently adjustable. Just loosen the screw on one side, and only the rest on that side moves.
@@Clough42 After watching this video again I'm not sure why I thought you wouldn't be able to adjust the toolrests independently. 😁
think theres enough room under the toolrest and in front of the grindingstone to extend the bolts past the stones so theres on the outside of the grinder , you can then use wingnut heads to change the angle of the toolrest without any tools and probably with the machine running though thats not a wize idea
i like the idea and have a grinder without toolrest i got from a neighbour that verry close to looking like the one you adapted , might copy the idea and add verry small ajustable fences or grooves to the toolrests so i van slide the lathe tool toward the stones at the propper set angle
Yeah, there should be plenty of room to do that. I use this mostly for grinding lathe tools, and for that use, I don't move them much. I have a hex key set within arms reach of the grinder, so I haven't bothered. Yet.
Maybe some 6-1.0mm allthread and a wing nut so you wouldn't need to keep an allen wrench close at hand? I like the way you walk through your solution in your videos.
Wingnut, absolutely, thinking so myself. Or a small, even shop-made, knob would be even better.
Great solution. I would like to see how you solve the problem with wheels.
Yeah, I haven't gotten back to that. Maybe I'll get another grinder and fix it up on video next time.
The aluminum maybe easy to work with, but at the very least, I'd use J-B weld and adhere a plate of 1/8" steel on top as a wear surface. Better yet might be a piece of steel angle modified to a short L shape, creating a surface for a too holder or diamind dresser to slide against.
I bought an older used grinder and the tool rest are really crappy just like the ones you took off. Thanks for the ideas. 👍
Yes, the original ones were definitely on backwards alright.
Generally, grinder safety guidelines say that the tip of the rest should be at least 90 degrees to the closest point to the wheel. And 1-2mm clearance between the rest and the wheel.
Of course if you're putting a bevel on a blade an angle of greater than 90 is fine since it will only knock the piece out of your hand it you screw up. But an angle of less than 90 degrees makes it more likely that you will get your work jammed between the rest and the wheel, and all hell will break loose.
Sealey grinders on Amazon currently have a few stock images of a dude using a grinder with the rests on backwards and it looks a bit scary.. Having the rests backwards means is like having the rest 10-20mm away from the wheel, depending on the length of the angled part of the rest.
Thanks
A man of your skills could make some longer bolts that go from the steel bar in the middle and extend under the rests to the side of the grinder with a knob to loosen/tighten the rests by hand.
Please stand by, adding a short edit to improve flow. Yes, constructive
The adjusters that are under the rest on each side ♼⏤, it looks like instead of a hex-head bolt (m6 x 1"?) you could do a knob using a longer bolt (1/4 x 20? x 2 or 3") with a washer, then locktite a pair of nuts for the tightner, then at the head attach a knob that you buy or make - threaded on first in the assembly, or welded/brazed to the head. I've seen people just cut a slot across the head, file a flat on on edge of a washer, then braze the flat into the slot. Then you can attach a crossbar to the washer. Elegant, useful, not as pretty as some handle-solutions.
😂 4 sides imperial=~4 sides metric
Approximately. :)
N j
Excellent video one simple suggestion: try maybe to move the microphone away from your face a little your breathing is the most heard thing in this video.
Thank you for the suggestion. I agree it's distracting. I've been trying some different microphone positions in other videos. Hopefully it's better.
Luke... I am your father. unnnnhhhh cuhhhhhh. unnnnhhhhh cuuhhhhh
@@paulweston8184 I’m your father 😆😆😆
The best solution would be to throw that piece of junk away, and stop buying junk that you have to modify to make it usable.
Really? For someone just starting out, this is a fun project and an inexpensive way to get a usable grinder for very little money.
@Clough42 Someone just starting out with a CNC Mill. Really?A grinder with a lot of vibration is unsuitable for tool grinding. It's been 6 years how's it running
@@caploader111 it works great, and it's the grinder I still use today. If I were buying today I would spend more, but I haven't yet felt the need to replace it.
I think that might have been the first video I made when I launched the channel, and I can't remember if I ever showed that I made a new set of clamping plates that fixed the vibration. It was a long time ago.
@@Clough42 you fixed the vibration and it's still runs good. I stand corrected, and apologize for my negative comment.
Darn I would love to see that. Quick (dumb) question: when installing a tool rest mounted to the bench how would you make sure it’s square to the wheel? I don’t know what I’m doing wrong but damn i can’t do it