I’ll give the preheating a try, how I did it was to ‘design’ a 3d printed slot exactly the width of the webbing 1” (25mm) I put a cutout exactly the size of the #11 scalpel blades I have at the right position for the sizes for the common watch straps I need to cut (22mm, 20mm, 18mm). The webbing goes into the slot/jig and I pull it through the blade. This gives a very consistent width and is extremely easy to do long runs but the edge is obviously an issue, I’ve have varying success with a wind proof lighter and torch but I often end up with hideous blobs and it’s hard to keep the strap from bowing due to heat only being applied to one side. I’ve had some really good straps and some pretty ugly ones but it also depends on the camo pattern one like DNV with it’s straight lines and lighter palette show the brown melted blobs more obviously. What I’m making are camo pattern watch straps, outside the most common real camo patterns most of what’s out there are garish fake patterns simply for style. But there are people making webbing in pretty much any camo pattern ever fielded. I’ve never figured out why someone isn’t offering something like this commercially I know they would sell. My supplier only offers 2” and 1”, 1” is perfect for the few 25mm watches I have but 18,20,22mm are the most common and I’ve yet to find anyone offering webbing in those sizes. Upside is they look amazing on the right watch, a black F91w on a camo strap especially DNV is perfection. If anyone cares I’ll prob put my models for the printable jigs online, they only take a few minutes to print and #11 scalpel blades are cheaper than exacto blades. But if you want to use a how knife technique (you need a >25w iron) you obviously can’t do that with a 3d printed part. It would be possible to make something that works in a similar way in metal but I tend to think a laser cutter and a rotational axis would be better for this and I’m looking at K40s anyway.
I've found that cutting straps with a chisel that's wider than the strap works great. Put it on a piece of wood, line up the chisel, tap with hammer and it does a perfect cut. Then melt the end.
Great tips. I've used a grill butane lighter to burn the end of a nylon rope after wrapping the end first with electrical or masking tape to keep it from fraying. I also use a lighter to very lightly burn the fuzz off a roller cover to keep the fuzz off a painted wall or door, especially if using oil base paint.. I've never seen the soldering iron trick though, that's cool. Thanks
Ow!!! I caught my finger under the ruler. Ow! I cut my finger deep with my exacto knife. OW!! I just burned my fingers with the lighter. Ow! That soldering iron is HOT! Ow! I just burned my hand on the melted webbing!. This is way too dangerous. I am going to call the experts!
I’ll give the preheating a try, how I did it was to ‘design’ a 3d printed slot exactly the width of the webbing 1” (25mm) I put a cutout exactly the size of the #11 scalpel blades I have at the right position for the sizes for the common watch straps I need to cut (22mm, 20mm, 18mm). The webbing goes into the slot/jig and I pull it through the blade. This gives a very consistent width and is extremely easy to do long runs but the edge is obviously an issue, I’ve have varying success with a wind proof lighter and torch but I often end up with hideous blobs and it’s hard to keep the strap from bowing due to heat only being applied to one side. I’ve had some really good straps and some pretty ugly ones but it also depends on the camo pattern one like DNV with it’s straight lines and lighter palette show the brown melted blobs more obviously.
What I’m making are camo pattern watch straps, outside the most common real camo patterns most of what’s out there are garish fake patterns simply for style. But there are people making webbing in pretty much any camo pattern ever fielded. I’ve never figured out why someone isn’t offering something like this commercially I know they would sell. My supplier only offers 2” and 1”, 1” is perfect for the few 25mm watches I have but 18,20,22mm are the most common and I’ve yet to find anyone offering webbing in those sizes. Upside is they look amazing on the right watch, a black F91w on a camo strap especially DNV is perfection.
If anyone cares I’ll prob put my models for the printable jigs online, they only take a few minutes to print and #11 scalpel blades are cheaper than exacto blades. But if you want to use a how knife technique (you need a >25w iron) you obviously can’t do that with a 3d printed part. It would be possible to make something that works in a similar way in metal but I tend to think a laser cutter and a rotational axis would be better for this and I’m looking at K40s anyway.
I've found that cutting straps with a chisel that's wider than the strap works great. Put it on a piece of wood, line up the chisel, tap with hammer and it does a perfect cut. Then melt the end.
Oh my gosh, these techniques are so helpful!! Thank you!!
The soldering iron is a really good tip. Thanks.
Great tips. I've used a grill butane lighter to burn the end of a nylon rope after wrapping the end first with electrical or masking tape to keep it from fraying. I also use a lighter to very lightly burn the fuzz off a roller cover to keep the fuzz off a painted wall or door, especially if using oil base paint.. I've never seen the soldering iron trick though, that's cool. Thanks
great short tips at the exact right moment in my life. you're a king.
Thank you so so much for this. I don’t have a soldiering iron. So might try heating a blade with a candle 🕯. Will see. Thank you so much 😊
Thank you now I know how to have the right strap
Thanks. Now I know I'm on the right track - just need a sharper cut to start with
thank you good advice
Nice!
Ow!!! I caught my finger under the ruler. Ow! I cut my finger deep with my exacto knife. OW!! I just burned my fingers with the lighter. Ow! That soldering iron is HOT! Ow! I just burned my hand on the melted webbing!. This is way too dangerous. I am going to call the experts!
That will be $295 plus tax