Hand Tools to Build Furniture
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- čas přidán 18. 12. 2020
- This is my "core set" of hand tools to build things. Everyone will have different preferences on what tools they need based on their workflow, but this is mine. Different strokes for different folks.
Drop a comment if you agree with this as a base set of tools or let me know what you think I am CRAZY for not including!
**TOOLS USED**
Highland Woodworking - www.highlandwoodworking.com?A=1609 (one of the ABSOLUTE BEST sources for high quality tools and materials - My other two favorites = leevalley and toolsforworkingwood)
Hand plane - amzn.to/368aiXU
Dovetail saw - amzn.to/3655jqX (the budget gents saw -- its cheaper through my highlandwoodworking link above, which also has premium saw alternatives)
Coping Saw- amzn.to/3pECvOh
Marking knife - amzn.to/3sOl3Im
Starrett combination square - amzn.to/3iL4bxO
Thorex mallet - amzn.to/2Y2MFeV
Combination marking/mortise gauge - amzn.to/2Y2BfYB
Stanley benchtop tape measure - amzn.to/3o5wecl
Dividers - amzn.to/3w8Xr2H
Combination oil stone - amzn.to/397qXfW
Translucent Arkansas stone - amzn.to/3vIUyWk
square awl - amzn.to/3q8UjAT
GOOD pencil sharpener - amzn.to/3pB0cY1
---Consumables---
Liquid Hide Glue (old brown glue) - amzn.to/3a8tzut
Green Honing Compound - amzn.to/3cQNBtM
Pencils - amzn.to/3irJR6f
---Finish---
Tried and True Varnish Oil (linseed oil+ resin) - amzn.to/3g56D2n
Next watch this awesome dovetailed step stool build and let me know what you think! czcams.com/video/gxlK5HVMwR8/video.html
Your hand tool work should be an inspiration for beginners and amateurs alike. I've been using the best of the best of western saws for over 50 years. I now own 12 Japanese saws and use some of them on a daily basis. When I'm reducing an antique Chippendale or Shaker antique piece I find the Japanese saws offer more flexibility than the western saws and especially, give a much smoother cut. I'm in the process now of reproducing a Chippendale secretary for a client that has 6 small drawers in it that have 1/4" drawer sides. The smooth fine cut of a Japanese saw is making it a breeze to cut the dovetails in them. Thank you for your outstanding hand tool videos.
I am horrible with traditional western saws, but took very well to Japanese saws. They're also dirt cheap. Definitely give one a shot. A couple more items I would add to the "must have" list: A spokeshave and a set of files for shaping wood. A spokeshave is very versatile, like the router plane.
The problem with japanese saws to be aware of the blade does flex and can mean that a cut can be off. Western saws have a more sturdy blade meaning it can be easier to keep the cut straight.
With western saws and planes you need to keep them oiled to ensure that they are easy to use. So having an oil rag in a can can enable the blade to slide easily with little resistance. Also setting the teeth on the saw blade improves the cut.
I love using japanese saws for very fine small joint cuts especially on more rustic pieces of furniture.
The truth is western tools and Japanese tools are as good as one other but with their different characteristics.
If I am going to be cutting a larger joint by hand I will use a western tenon saw and if cutting a fine dovetail joint on a small set of drawers I will use a Japanese saw. It is just a preference but you will find that you can use either saw.
I'd add any type of workholding. (Pre-workbench) My suggestion would be a traditional hand screw clamp & two pipeclamps.
The workbench & knot free wood just makes everything so much more pleasant.
Found your channel a few weeks back. I am glad to find another hand tool preference user. No dust collection or ear protection needed! Great basic tool set shown here. I started to use only hand tools a number of years ago, with little extra money to spend. I watched some tool restoration videos, picked up some used saws and planes, and so the joy of hand tools grew. I must say that for many who have the extra money buying a $400 plane is no problem for them, and nothing wrong with that. However, what you learn by restoring your own tools, blades, saws, etc and how to get the most out of a tool you restore is invaluable. As has been mentioned, a shooting board is an essential tool for the hand tool user, as well as files for western saws. Keep up the great content, your time is much appreciated.
I really appreciate it Kevin and am glad you found the channel. You were one of the originals from the very beginning. Your advise on used tools and what you gain in restoring them is spot on! Great comment!!
Great starter set ! I prefer a wooden jack with heavy camber to the metal #5 for fast stock removal. Much lighter and so much fun to use !
Definitely get a Japanese pull saw, I got a set of guyukucho saws and immediately threw out my western saws, they give a neater cut, more accurate, less effort required to cut stuff super sharp, they make things like dovetails beyond easy with no gaps, well worth the money, they're not too expensive either you can pick a set of 3 different types up for less than that number 5 plane you have
depends on the western saws you were using, from my (although pretty limited) experience, well tuned western saw can perform just as good as well tuned japanese saw
@@janbernad4729 yeah they can perform just as good, it's more the ease of use to make it perform to that standard, the Japanese ones are very easy and quick to master, whereas the Western require a lot of tuning and practice from the user to achieve the same result, also because its a pulling motion rather than push, its less taxing on the body, its a more natural movement
@@alisterkelly4052 I find that the western saws are a lot easier to cut straight with.
@@matthew4878 you may be trying to use it like a western saw 🤔
Great video.Very good tool selection. Router plane is a must have - it's a joy to use. Other must haves I'd say are bit n brace, a card scraper, strop and a spokeshave. On bench planes I mainly use a #4 and a #5 1/2.
Personally I'd add a deeper tenon saw, and a 3 or 4 ppi big rip beast.
From there I'd recommend making a panel gauge, shooting board and a rebate plane.
Gotta say, I totally agree with you. Sounds like you carry some experience working with hand tools at the bench!
You, young man do amazing work with so few tools. Have watched all you put on U-Tube and looking forward to more. Will recommend your channel to any novices, who are starting out and trying to figure out what it takes to accomplish good work.
Thank you sir!!
One of the best starter guides
I really liked your straight forward video! I really love a compass for my hand tool woodworking.
This is a great video and everyone that want to start woodworking should see that!!! I wish I had seen that when I first started 5 years ago, I had to figure almost the same set on my own and thus wasted some money on tools I hardly ever used.
Good video showing the most important tools to have.
Just found your channel. I'm so thankful that I have found another hand tool woodworker. Being only 16, I'm on a tight budget so power tools are out of the equation. We need more great information on hand tools like this video. Keep up the amazing work.
Thanks man and glad to have you here!
Good information, Frank.. I use moist of what you have there, and can't argue with anything that you've said, given the quality of the jobs that you do. It's always good to have access to some machines to reduce the time, and in my case give me some accuracy that I wouldn't otherwise have. There will always be a place for a goodly content of hand tool use in all that I do.
Very helpful video! Keep it up!!
Thanks for sharing your experience 👍🏻🇪🇬
Maybe a couple of clamps , great video, thank you for that mider saw tip
I like the fact that you start the list with sharpening stones which I too find to be the most important aspect of hand tool woodworking. There is little joy in working with dull tools, right? I'm a beginner and actually started learning how to use hand tools on a concrete bench in the nearby park. When I found a small room to continue learning, the next essential to me was the workbench vice... now that's essential and a game changer. Best wishes!
That is pretty awesome that u found a way to get it done even when lacking the bench! keep at it brother bc your perseverance and ingenuity will pay dividends. You are so right on about the vice!
Thanks for your videos, Frank. Very informative, especially for a beginner. Sorry for my English, I could be wrong, hello from Russia
Thank you for the comment, Vita. I'm glad it was helpful and your English is great!
Just found your channel, and great vids! I’m still a novice woodworker so soaking up as much info as possible.
Unfortunately I haven’t worked too much with quality western saws, where I live I don’t have much to choose from. However I got a couple of Japanese style pull saws when I started out and after a bit of a learning curve I really love them. Thin curf and easy to get through hard and soft woods. Even the low budget Japanese pull saws are good, but due to lower quality they tend to break, especially the teeth breaking off.
Keep up the good work!!
Thank you!
I also really enjoyed the videos with the focus on hand tools. I'm not a trained woodworker and really only make things for me, but have been more interested in the hand tools for a number of reasons including space. If you have time, focusing on hand tools selection, maintenance, sharpening, etc. would be really helpful.
Thanks for the comment, I plan to get to those topics over time. A smaller footprint is definitely one of the many advantages to hand tool work.
Good advice and I use pretty much only those tools myself except my no 5 is a 5 1/2so not really any different however you did miss out drilling I use a brace and an egg beater
I do to, I think it is fun to watch how people react to an egg beater in use.
You can never have to many hand tools, even if they sit on a shelf for awhile till you finally pull them down and start to use them. For me buying LN I'm always able to recoup most of my money and sometimes make a profit.
Japanese pull saws are great
New subscriber here , hope to learn more about woodworking hand tools . I see you like Paul sellers , he’s my favorite teacher in CZcams I think.
Awesome man! Yes, Paul Sellers book is pure gold for starting out!
@@FranksWorkbench I need to get a book since you mentioned it , I need to start making something though is very relaxing work with wood
First time seeing your channel. Gotta be honest. This reminds me alot of how I work at my shop. (Wicked woodworks) in VT.
great video!
Thank you!
I, too, found the Nobex mitre saw to be not that useful in furniture work. Hardly used it.
Now, the coffee mug.......Can't do without it ;-)
Hahaha I like the way you think!🤣 I still use the nobex for doing several repeated cuts but for one-off cuts or a single picture frame... Not even worth the effort of carrying it to the bench.
Thx dude !!
Sun Child japanese dovetail saw is really nice. Give it a try.
I've read through the comments. I found others say, brace and bits, bevel guage, spokeshave, files, and sash-saw. But nobody picked up on a panel gauge or a shooting board.
Pencil lines are okay for machines, but when you dimension a board by hand, the knife line is very important. For those that don't know, surface your large reference face. Then square an edge to the face. Your panel gauge will mark a line parallel to the square edge. You can scrub close to the line if there is a lot to remove, or you can plane to the line. Plane the second large face, cut the two ends then shoot them square to the first squared edge (plane the ends into square on a board that holds a 90 angle). You probably know this, but I suspect somebody new will read and think, "what's a panel gauge and a shooting board?"
Good point my man. I use a shooting board ALL the time. Like probably every piece of wood lol. The one I'm using now is the most simple one I've ever made and has stayed true the longest
U got some big stones bro! :)
First tier tools you missed that I use all the time: brace, egg beater drill, bits, screw drivers, countersink, nail sets, hammer. (I'll note here that I use my brace, and egg beater drills, but I use my cordless drill more often.)
Second tier tools to add: smoothing plane, tenon saw, dividers, framing square, spoke shave, files & rasps, shoulder plane.
Because sharpening stones get dished over time, and it's nearly impossible to sharpen well with curved stones, get a large, extra course, diamond coated steel "stone".
Then there are loads of tools, and appliances that you can make: sharpening strop, bench hook, shooting boards, panel gauge, saw horses, saw bench.
And the most essential tool of all is a good work bench.
Solid list! Love it!
As far as flattening of the whetstones is concerned, I can recommend using float glass and silicon carbide abrasive powder (basicaly a free abrasive from the sandpaper). Works well for the price.
@@janbernad4729
Yes, that works.
However, diamond cuts faster, and in the long haul, sandpaper is more expensive.
@@deezynar i dont use the sandpaper, i use abrasive powder which they use to make sandpaper. I managed to buy it with only a bit of difficulty and pretty cheap (1 kilo for about 10 dollars I guess and from my experience, you dont need too much of it, so it actually lasts you quite a long time), the diamonds are more convenient and accurate for sure, but for me as a hobbyist they are quite an overkill, given the price
@@janbernad4729
Do you have a video showing the process and where you get the abrasive powder?
You make a good pitch.
As items that need not cost a lot, nor take up much space, I’d add a couple of measuring tools. So things like very small try squares, for example. I have a couple made of brass, about two inches long, for inside measurement of boxes or the like, very useful. Shinwa make good 90 & 45 squares, rules & angle finders all of which I find useful. These & my old Marple's try square are what I use most. Lastly I have a stainless steel 2 foot roof framing square for larger items, but never a roof.
You sir are a true operator. Love the channel and it’s driving me forward to woodworking mayhem/glory. Are your planes from Woodriver or Lee-Nielsen? Thanks !
Japanese saws are nice, different technique needed. A little more forgiving to those new to hand saws. The pull strokes does allow for thinner blades, resulting in a thinner kerf. Usually hardened so not so easy to resharpen. I find traditional western style work holding is not conducive to pull saw use, but it can still be done.
I like both western and Japanese style saws, they have their pros and cons. Having both can certainly bring flexibility, so long as you adapt your technique for the saw.
You can find a more budget friendly combination square from igaging. It’s half the price of a starrett but still very well made and precise/accurate
Great, thank you!!
Bench hooks and shooting board
You got to try a continental european frame saw for rip cuts, there's nothing quite like it, really thin 0.5 mm, 28 inch long, 3 or 5 ppi tensioned blade, nothing cuts quite like it.
They seem like a great tool and value!
Hi Frank, can you provide links to your chisels and regular saws, not the backsaws (I can tell those are veritas)? Are your chisels Narex or Woodcraft?
Re: saws…in one of your video building a workbench, you used a frame saw to make cuts on mortise and tenons. If a diy saw, please do a video on the build. Thanks✌🏻
I bought that one from toolsforworkingwood. its the gramercy bow saw. I believe Rex Krueger has a vid on making one!
Great video. I’m slowly hoarding tools... i mean, collecting tools too 😊
I have a Japanese handsaw, but I’m not as much of a fan of it (a Ryoba). I think it’s the fact that it encourages me to stand far back because of the handle length, but I prefer to be closer to the piece to see the lines, etc. I’m also not a fan of the blade flexibility either, but that’s just my preference.
I do have a Veritas Micro Adjust Marking Gauge and it’s really great, but as you mentioned, it does struggle to show a definitive marking line when going with the grain. I have been eyeing up a Marples Combination gauge, which should help with that.
I also need, yes NEED, a few saws 😁 I have a Lie-Nielsen Tenon Saw and a Veritas Fine Tooth Dovetail saw (and a lovely Knew Concepts Fret Saw - I don’t drink coffee 😉), but I haven’t really got anything to really rip or re-saw big pieces. I’d be open to suggestions in what saw brand to look for. Thanks and have a good day.
Great insight! For "real" ripping I usually use a 26" long 5-1/2 PPI handsaw. It works ok for resawing too but only for pieces a few inches wide. On the Shaker shelf video, I used a scrub plane to thickness the shelves to 5/8".... Feel kinda bad about wasting the wood but I just wasn't willing to resaw >60" of 7" wide boards with my 5.5 ppi saw--that would have been brutal. A roubo style frame saw at ~3 ppi would be a great hand tool way to resaw, I've been wanting one for some time now.
@@FranksWorkbench.
Thanks. It’s only my opinion and I suppose Japanese saws are quite reasonably priced, but another downside for me is that when they become blunt, you can’t sharpen them, so it’s another item to throw away. I much prefer the idea of being able to sharpen a western saw, so there’s less to go to landfill - although, I’m yet to learn this skill (haven’t needed to do it just yet).
Oh, and that’s great information. Thanks. I’m still learning stock prep. I fell for the CZcams info about a no.62 hand plane, and I always like to wait to buy the best I can afford, so I bought a Lie-Nielsen, but the more I read into it now (Rob Cosman, Matt Estlea, Paul Sellers), that perhaps I should have gone for a no.5 or no.5 1/2 and just learn to use the one plane to “master” it, so to speak. The no.62 is great for using on a shooting board, but like you show in your video, a no.5 can handle that duty too.
When I’m able to prep stock to a higher standard, at some point, I’d like to buy a Bad Axe Roubo kit and build the frame. I like that idea a lot and as you say, 3 PPI would tear through stock to re-saw it nicely. With regards to a cambered blade, I’ve only really just learned to truly sharpen a chisel and plane iron to a fine furniture standard, so I’m a little hesitant about trying to do a cambered blade; I’ve messed up a few times. I do like the idea of a scrub plane, but I use mostly S4S timber which is 3/4” (or 19mm here in the UK), and during lockdown, it’s restricted my ability to get more diverse thicknesses. Hopefully when / if covid goes, I’ll travel to a lumber yard and buy some eight quarter stock to give more elaborate ideas a go.
Sorry for the essay; I do enjoy talking about woodworking and hand tools are my favourite aspect 😊
Robert Larson is my preference for gauge,
I think I would put bevel gauge and a compass/dividers set in the basic list but it may not really be considered a beginner tools I guess.
Thank you for all of your awesome work and videos. I see your planes are Woodcraft. Are your chisels Woodcraft as well?
Frank! If you’re in NW AR, let me know. I have a few different Japanese Handsaws that I’d let you borrow to try out. I’ve never tried western style saws so maybe we could meet up and try each other’s saws. No pressure - let me know if you’re in NWA and we’ll work something out.
I'm in TX now but appreciate the offer man!
I'm probably not as skilled as you with hand tools. But I do have a few Japanese style pull saws. and I really like them.
Very thin kerf. very sharp. great cut.
But then, I don't think I've ever uses a quality western style saw.
Thank you I appreciate your input Yossi!
Thanks for all the infos. I hate nosie and sawdust too.
appreciate it :)
Nice video, do you have the model number on the second marking knife, also it might be helpful to include some links where the tools can be purchased, especially ones you find good quality like the marking gauge. Looking forward to more videos. from Canada
Thank you and appreciate that advise you are right I need to go in and add links for a few items. The second marking knife is stanley 10-598
Insta sub! No bullshit, love it.
Thank you!
Great video. I agree on the number 5 plane. I have a no 6, 5,and 4. The no 5 takes care of 95 percent of what I do and I almost use the no 4 as my block plane.
I use gyokucho Japanese saws and find the quality to be good.
That's a great plane selection! And thanks for the input regarding japanese saws!
Thanks for showing that you don't need expensive machines to make good quality furniture, funny thing is I started looking for jointer/planner combo machines before stumbling on your channel.
I am a beginner woodworker and use Japanese saws ( dozuki, Ryoba and kataba ) I think for beginners is much easier to learn to saw on the pull stroke but I think that might be a big factor for you if you are pushing for a cut. I think you would enjoy watching Dorian Bracht channel ( Japanese joint expert ).
as for planes I also have a Jack Plane and I am very happy with it. it has a nice weight and currently I am looking into building a better shooting board.
My next tool is going to be a hand router plane or a plough plane. It is very easy to put a lot of money into tools so I am still looking around. I am interested on building Boxes but I don't know if is too much work trying to make grooves with a router plane, that is why am considering the plough plane. I would like to hear your thoughts.
Welcome, I'm glad u stumbled on the channel! A plough is one of my favorite tools, but I would recommend just doing it with a chisel until you find a good deal on a plough. To do it with a chisel, use a marking/mortise gauge and score deep lines. Then use a narrow chisel such as 1/4" because less resistance will give much greater control. Use the chisel bevel down and just scoop out the wood. If the box is not too big you could probably also just skip the groove and glue the bottom on. Hope this helps!
Japanese saws are not easier to use than western saws but they have characteristics that maybe more favorable to a person.
Pull saws are not easier to use than push saws. The small size of the japanese saws probably give you the feeling they offer more control as they are lightweight.
What about Brands you use on all your tools.
Where did you get the better paul sellers knife? Thanks and great video.
Thanks man! I could not find the good knife for sale in the US. I got it on eBay from UK. Its a Stanley 10-598
what brand are your larger crosscut and rip saws?
Great video! 👌
What is the router plane you're using? I'm searching for one but these things are pretty expensive to be honest!
Anyways, I see you always are dead flat pieces of wood, do you have a planer and so on, are you doing it by hand or just managing to purchase the right thickness for a project ? 😊
That one is a veritas router plane. Yes are expensive unfortunately. Check eBay for Stanley 71 router plane and hopefully you can get a good plane for under $100. I do not have a planer, just doing it by hand and spend a pretty good bit of time to get the boards flat and true. When I flatten a board I aim to get it flat and straight while maximizing the board's thickness. I definitely don't try to get all boards to the same thickness as someone who uses a power planer/jointer would do. This method works out fine for working with hand tools bc if you have a box and 4 sides are all different thicknesses, just align the shoulder lines for joinery and this will make the piece square when checked by a square to the internal box corners. The external can be corrected (if desired) with a hand plane after assembly. I hope that made sense.
Liking your videos and I've been watching them now... actually one note I've taken is that you seem to use a block quite a bit at least on your recent videos. For chamfering and I think on the shooting board as well - is that a low-angle one?
I've got old Stanley planes, 4, 5 & 7, 300/1000 combo diamond stone, strop, couple Narex basic chisels, Ryoba saw, and now a table saw and a bad jointer/planer combo. + Misc stuff.
I'd like to get a saw or two but it'd just get so expensive... Does a crosscut carcass saw + ripcut tenon saw make sense to you, or just a ripcut carcass saw? Haven't learned about sharpening saws yet.
yes its a low angle block. As far as the backsaws go - i think you'd do fine with only a ripcut carcass saw for all the joinery cuts - crosscuts, tenons, dovetails, etc.
Please, what are the tools i should have as a carpenter?.
I'm a beginner
Frank, What oil stones are you using? Did you consider diamond stones? I couldn't agree more about the "Paul Sellers" Stanley knife. I got one (not the 10-598) and it is terrible. I agreed and followed all of your recommendations. I just picked up my No.5 jack plane and a Disston No. 4 backsaw on craigslist, a cheap spokeshave on Amazon, the Thor mallet, chisels, a marking gauge, and a honing guide. Currently using sandpaper until I decide which stones to buy. I picked up a PEC Blemished Double Square for $25 and it is solid! Great video, new sub.
Welcome to the channel! I use medium india stone and hard arkansas stone followed by a strop. I've tried diamond stones but prefer oil stones. It sounds like you are ready to get going!! Don't let the stones stop you, start with the sandpaper and that will be fine!! Everyone has their sharpening preference so just pick whichever appeals to you
@@FranksWorkbench After reading your comment I recently bought the India stone and Kunsuto 2000/4000 oil stone. Don't need to strop as much, like you mentioned (somewhere on your site?) as with the 1200 diamond plates . 👌
I read somewhere you preferred the Veritas scrub plane over a #4 with a cambered blade, which you called ' a mistake'. Why is that?
Do you have any recommendations of books about traditional woodworking benches? Id like to read up on them, thanks
Check out Chris Schwarz / lost art press, he's got some good reads!
Is the bench and vice not considered a tool?
Genuine question, I'm wondering if you can just do your work on the floor, resting your workpiece on some other stock, and stepping on it.
Spokeshave. Get one.
The only vital thing I feel you forgot was a way to drill holes 😁 and a plough plane........ man I would be LOST without a plough!! There are other ways to cut grooves, but nothin beats a plough, it's my favourite tool and the most enjoyable to use...... I love to get groovy 😂🤣🤷♂️ mine is an old Marples MA44 (same as the Record 044)
I've heard good things about iGaging combo squares, not used them myself as I prefer a square that is non-adjustable (I use PEC solid machinists squares)...... to my mind if a square is adjustable then there is the potential for wear on the moving parts which will in time make it un-square 😁 but the Igaging is supposed to be a good unit at a fraction of the price of a Starrett.
I have been using Japanese saws for the last 3 years. They are deadly accurate, leave the finest smoothest kerf you will ever see and are extremely easy to start. But they are hard to control (hard to turn if you go off line) and are mostly designed for fine work and the pitch is reflected in that..... and you gotta be VERY carefull in hard dense woods, it's easy to break teeth if you put even the slightest pressure into it. With the fine pitch on them the work goes slowly in hard stuff and can get frustrating. You will get the most enjoyment from a Japanese saw in thinner woods.
Again, a good video which I enjoyed watching 😁 you're actually the first channel I've ever subscribed to 🤙
Nice additions! Even when I considered myself to only use hand tools I still kept a cordless drill, Brad nailer, and circular saw. So much versatility there. Great to have u as a subscriber!
@@FranksWorkbench I still have a brad nailer but havent used it in a few years..... I have a 1/4inch router that gets used maybe 2-3 times a year if I'm doin fiddly inlay or banding. Other than that I'm purely hand tools for everything, although I would like a small tablesaw someday for really long rips....... and if a hole REALLY needs to be at a perfect 90⁰ I do take advantage of me dads drill press (I have a small area to the side of his metal workshop)
I'm commenting on your stuff and subbed to you in the hopes that itll help you out and more people will see your stuff...... you dont have many subscribers but your work/channel is VERY good and I want to see you blow up 💥🤙
I gets carried away sometimes with my comments, my essay above is proof of that 🙄🤣🤦♂️ I'm in Ireland...... and we talk a lot of sheight sometimes 🤷♂️😂
Hope you have a good one lad 🤙
Thanks man I appreciate it! CZcams is tough to crack...
@@FranksWorkbench keep doin your thing lad, and I'm sure things will go your way in time, the hand tool stuff has become VERY popular on CZcams 😁🤙 it may be hard to constantly come up with fresh content..... but so long as ya show your skills and youre doin somethin that makes ya happy, then I'm sure people will enjoy it....... I for one enjoy watchin you with a saw in your hand, you have very good control of that particular tool 🤙
Il take any opportunity I get to mention your name on livestreams or in comment sections...... so long as its appropriate at the time for me to do so on another persons channel without upsetting someone 😁
You wont need a gimmick or a "hook" to draw people in when ya have skills in your hands ..... keep doin your thing lad 🤙
Thanks for tour of your tool recommendations. Can you please give the link to your marking gauge?
Here is a link for the one I use. Searching amazon for "combination gauge" shows a few others in the $25-35 range that look to be of equal quality.
www.amazon.com/Crown-154-Mortice-Gauge-Screwslide/dp/B002S0OJ5C/ref=mp_s_a_1_12?dchild=1&keywords=combination+gauge&qid=1608406009&sprefix=combination+g&sr=8-12
@@FranksWorkbench Hey Frank, what is the wagon vise in your bench, is that from Lee Valley - Veritas inset vise? I want to change my bench top since its not completely flat and might add that in. Do you like it?
Yes that's it, absolutely love it. Making new bench now and will be using same inset vice
@@FranksWorkbench Thanks Frank, looking forward to seeing the new bench. Your work is awesome.
Has your opinion changed on the usefulness of certain tools since making this video? For example the coping saw and jointer plane, which are getting some use in a few of your recent videos.
Oh for sure man. I def use the coping saw and jointer plane much more, also use the scrub plane less now with the machines. but dude im getting a serious itch lately for a hand tool only build
Hi Frank, I'm a tool junky such as yourself, how do you find the woodriver planes, I'm toying between a wood River or Clifton jack plane
I think the planes are great, the blades on the other hand are very hit or miss. I couldn't sharpen some of mine. Probably not the fit and finish of premium planes though.
A solid set to start. But I'd say lose the dovetail saw and go for a sash saw, a 14" long cc saw with good depth, with a 13 ppi. It will rip just fine, a little slower, but I'd say far more useful in furniture building for me. Im an advide hand tool user, and find my sash/large cross cut saw lives on my bench. Cross cutting seems to be more common over rip for me, other than small tenons or dovetails, everything else seems to be cc. But totally agree with the rest.
Yeah you are totally right on that, would be far more versatile than the dovetail saw I showed. I sorta did this video on the fly. I also wish I would have said a 5-1/2 ppi rip saw. If I could only have one rip saw, no way it would only be the 7ppi one.
I agree with that, the 5 1/2ppi would be a solid general rip saw. Good for most stuff from 1- 2" thick stock. Which is the general rough stock size. It is however rough on 3/4" stock as you don't have enough teeth engaged in the board. But hey thats why there are different size saws.. just more to have.
For Japanese saws the Ryoba really does come in handy sometimes. The Dozuki everyone praises for dovetails is to big and weird for me. It’s got a tiny tiny kerf but at 22ppi it takes forever to cut anything. I sent it back. So I would say grab Ryoba and hang it back there, you WILL have times you’ll reach for it over another saw. All the others… pass.
My name is Darrell, and I’m a toolaholic. 🤪
Welcome to the club!
Great video!
Great set up!
The Swann Morton blades are identical to the Stanley's.
My (entire) core set:
ECE /Pinie wooden scrub, jack, smoothing 49° pitch, and try plane
ECE cross-cut & rip saw, Heckenrose backsaw 15 tpi
ECE router plane, Pinie rebate plane, Narex chisels 6--->32 mm,
Pinie / ECE marking & mortice gauges
Handmade plough plane,
Kunz spokeshave & n°80 scraper
3Eichen coping saw,
Kirschen (two cherries) marking knife /SM/Stanley,
Pinie mallets barrel type and block, (I also love the Thor)
Vogel square and a Sola sliding bevel
Kirschen veneer saw (used for sliding dovetails)
Stabila folding rule
Brace and bits, Eggbeater, 'Alpen' drill bits (the best for drilling at slow speeds!)
Skandia hammer (German type bench hammer)
250/600/1200 diamond stones and strop
roof tile (!) to sharpen scrub plane ( just check tischlermeister Jakob)
red/blue Lyra carpenters pencil
black Lyra wax crayon
compass ( dividers)
pair of winding sticks
Wiha screwdrivers wooden handle with leather cap
pine workbench (Sellers style) with York 9" quick release vise
Saw horse
A very traditional 'continental' set that perfectly fits a Dutch tool chest, all made in EU
Very similar to the contents of the Ulmia/ECE tool cabinets.
Anything more would be considered extravagant 😉
Great list! I had to look up many of these of the internet. Do you do all sawing with frame saw? Does the frame get in the way in long rips? Thank you for the advise on a bits that work well at low speed!
@@FranksWorkbench The 'handles' on the frame saw can be turned to make long rip cuts. (resawing ...)
I do all sawing with the frame saws, including tenons. Dovetails are cut with a small backsaw.
The 600 mm length is ideal at the bench or sawhorse. Cutting to a line is very easy if you let gravity do the work for you.
Thank you! The YT channel you referenced was superb. His craftsmanship is incredible and it was very interesting to see the European tools at work, some seem to carry distinct advantages over US counterparts.
@@FranksWorkbench One of the advantages is you can buy everything new and still pay less (in EU) than you would for old Stanley, Record, Diston, etc... A brand new ECE smoothing plane costs €80. A frame saw costs about the same. I have three, but you could easily swap the blades, which cost... €10. Sharpen them and you're good to go. Hand tool workers here don't care much about tool steel, hardness, HRC, O1, A1, or whatever. The Rhine area has always produced very good steel, Solingen, Remscheid... Our tools look plain, no flamed maple handles... but they haven't changed in centuries for a reason.
A lot of truth to what you say. The pricing does look very attractive for quality new tools. I personally don't think the value exists anymore for vintage tools. My disstons were $10-20 but nowadays if the saw is not a rehab job it's >$100 and there is a good chance you still get a saw with a kinked plate, saw filing issues, etc. Same is true for stanleys
Hey Frank, i have same luban planer 5 1.2 but i am not happy oem blade quickly geting dull. I wanna purchase veritas one but i was not sure which is better so What kind blade you use from veritas?
I didn't like the OEM blade either. I got the Stanley/record replacement blades from veritas
@@FranksWorkbench cool the tickness stanley blade i think is thinner no vibration eith oem chip breaker? cutting well on your video. What is your higher grit sharpening stone?
Yes I only changed the blade and it's been doing good a few yrs now. I finish sharpening on either a translucent Arkansas then strop with green honing compound or 1200 mesh diamond stone with same stropping works just as well
@@FranksWorkbench thanks for the answering. Have a great weekend.
Just shows how little you need. I just need a router plane now.
Skipped right over tool one… coffee
😆
And a wireless microphone.
Lol is it that bad?
Hand woodworking tools, buy one, now you want Two, now you want THree, but now of a higher quality mid price, not good enough you say. I want next gen new fangled dangle, super dooper high end tool, not just for the feel or quality of work but (bragging rights). Now you have it made you say, but wait there's more. mmm Old antique tools, wow is that what it cost, got to have one, no two, no just one more :-) Soon you look at your work shop and its not a work shop but a museum. Now you are at the point of no return. You thought I have it made, yess, yesss, yessss. Sad to say you have entered the twilight zone. A friend gives you a hand plane to shape into something useful, so you restore it. Now you are truly fucked. YOU GET ANOTHER you restore it, then another tool like a union drill press pokes its head into your life, its 80 years old and you bring it back to life, out lay $180.00 You sell it for $500 or do you !. Fear not a small hobby, but fear where it takes you ha ha ha. I kid you not. cheers.
Ah the fabled rabbit hole!