Building Jay Bates' Miter Saw Station
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- čas přidán 4. 06. 2024
- Special thanks to Kreg Tool for sending me some of the tools needed to build my version of Jay Bate’s Ultimate Miter Saw Station!
I’m so happy to finally have this built and complete to give my garage shop some much needed organization. If you’d like to build this yourself, check out the plans Jay has available on his website:
jayscustomcreations.com/produ...
Reading more your style for this type of project? Check out the video write-up on my website:
www.farbulouscreations.com/vi...
Some of the tools and materials used in this project (may contain affiliate links):
Kreg Foreman: amzn.to/302XvGa
Kreg Rip-Cut: amzn.to/3pDEYsJ
Kreg Right Angle Clamps: amzn.to/3DzEDfF
Kreg 1-1/4” Pocket Hole Screws: amzn.to/3GlPQ5q
24” Full-Extension Drawer Slides: amzn.to/3rFQ3we
Drill: amzn.to/3DCMUPY
Impact Driver: amzn.to/3Gmxb9B
Circular Saw: amzn.to/3rQZXLH
Laser Line Level: amzn.to/2R2DhnR
Timestamps:
0:00 - Intro
2:05 - Planning & First Cuts
5:38 - Base Cabinets
10:37 - Work Surface
11:39 - Upper Cabinets
13:52 - Miter Saw Shelf
17:28 - Homage to Jay
17:52 - Drawer Assembly
20:55 - Cubbies
22:35 - Drawer Fronts
25:05 - Timelapse
26:27 - Outro
If you're an Amazon user and want to support my channel, using the link below will give me a small kickback from Amazon at no extra cost to you. Thanks in advanced!
amzn.to/2qnCG6M
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This looks great. I built an Ana White miter station several years ago. Last June I disassembled it and my husband repurposed it in his garage. I had intentions of building a new one right away. But during that week I hurt my back. Other projects got in the way and I’m just getting started on building my new miter station. It really has sucked not having a home for things. This past weekend I built a rather large drill charging station/tool holder. It really has me motivated to get my build going. Thanks for the motivation.
I'll just say your build is fine! The changes you made just makes it more yours. We ALL make mistakes on our builds. Even the pros with 100's of videos but we learn from it and start to create our own checks and balances to try and prevent it. You wont regret picking poplar to trim with. It's tough enough, takes hits pretty well, easy to sand out the collisions and best of all its cheaper and easy to replace when needed. Save your nice hardwood for a cool project! maybe something for yourself? And last when you show off your build to your friends don't point out your mistakes. As wood workers we tend to do that. A creative fix is part of the game. I had a few veterans tell me that after I pointed out my mistakes. In a supportive way they said "don't do that!" Your 2% mistake shouldn't overshadow your 98% awesome project. And make no mistake your project is 100% cool!
Hey Sean! Sorry for the late reply here, but thank you so much for the kind words! You're right - I instinctively want to point out the mistakes as well, haha. I think it's a defense mechanism, pointing them out yourself before they might have a chance to... ignoring the fact that most people aren't going to be jerks and point out small mistakes anyway, even if they WERE to notice them.Thanks for watching! ☺️
It looks amazing! I'm not judging you a bit. Each build at this point for me is a learning process. LOL!!! Keep it up!
Thanks Mel! 🥰 Glad you liked the video!
Heck yeah! Looks great!
Thanks man! :)
Man, that's awesome! I have the plans for this unit also and have been hesitant to build it, your video has inspired me to get moving on this project. Thanks!
Go for it! It really is far less intimidating once you just get started. As long as you have a good grasp over the cut list and any modifications you may be making, it's a breeze! Good luck man!
I've used tacks to hold t-nuts in place. Thanks for sharing!
Nice, great idea! Cheers!
Looks good. Enjoy your success.
Thanks Mike! :)
Great job.
Thanks William! 😊
👊you made it to the big time, you got stuff. Nice build my friend
Hahaha thanks Stephen! Missed you at WBC this year! Hopefully we can meet up at next years event! 😊
When adding T-Nuts to wooden materials i either use a c-clamp to force them into the material or drill through the substrate and use a bolt to draw them in. This will set them lower and flush into the material. Be sure to use fender washers to give the 'draw-bolt' a stable surface to work off of, otherwise you would force the bolt into the material without pulling the t-nut down. Also a little glue never hurt...
As far as drawer pulls are concerned, think about having something that doesn't protrude from the drawer face, a laser decorated cut finger hole (3/4 or full shaped to fit your finger with a band-aid on it). This would prevent catching on the pulls with material you lift onto and off of your miter station and give it a clean look.
All good advice on the t-nuts, thanks so much! :) Drawer pulls I'm not opposed to a shallow, surface mounted pull, because I'm really eager to do a laser etched design. 🤓
Great Job 😉👍🏽🔨🪚📐 Keep Up The Good Work…Cheers
Thanks Bigmo! Cheers to you as well! 😊
Great job! Looks great!! Thanks for sharing your time and talent!
Hey Derek, thank you for the kind words! :)
Maybe I misunderstood what your mistake was with the gap between wall & upper boxes, but that is to be expected. If the base cabinet is level and the upper box is square, then there will almost always be a gap to shim & hide at the wall as walls are rarely perfectly plumb. Typically fixed by scribing an end panel to the wall to hide the gap.
I like it thanks for posting did you remedy the carriage bolt leveling technique ?
Thanks! No, I just ended up using those screws to hold the T-nut in place (keep it from falling out) until the cabinet was upside down 🙃 pushing it up and holding it in place. Cheers!
Should put the t nuts on bottom side of 2x2. When you tighten down they will pull up and secure much better.
They technically got "pushed" in once I flipped the cabinets over and the bolts were resting on the floor, but totally get what you mean!
Verry nice
Thanks Mohammad!! 🥰
That's quite a project and you've done a great job. A couple of thoughts...The edge trim could be oak, made from a single 1x6x6 that you rip into 3/8-inch strips. Hardboard is a durable option for the surface of the workstation.
Thanks for the kind words and for the tips, Stephen! I hadn't considered hardboard for the surface, but yeah that could totally work!
Good job!
Great video, bit late to the party but just seen it :) 15 sheets!!! basically $1000 with todays UK prices of plywood. Just setting up my shop and tempted to go with aluminium extrusion which would be half the price!
Oof, yeah I lucked out by ordering too much a few years prior to the prices skyrocketing! I really hope it comes down soon. Otherwise prices for other materials is going to start shooting up too. :(
1/2 inch plywood would work just fine for most of the cabinet carcasses.
Nice! So how deep is this whole unit overall?
Hey Jimmy! Super sorry for the late reply here! The lower cabinets stick out from the wall about 37" and the upper portion sticks out about 10 inches less - 27". Cheers!
I would miss the toe kicks
Would I be able to simply push the lower wood piece touching the floor in two inches and notch that angle into the right and left carcass sides?
That's an interesting point about toe kicks, but honestly I haven't noticed it as an issue, primarily because you're not "working" at the in-feed/out-feed side of the station very often like you might a kitchen counter.... you're primarily standing in front of the saw, which obviously has plenty of room for shoes and toes. :)
But yes, if you wanted to notch the left and right sides of the carcass to allow for toe-kicks that should certainly be possible. You'd also have to modify the length of the 2x2's that take the T-nuts too. Hope that helps! :)
Great video, but I need to advise you for future builds: the garage floor is not flat :(
Hence the T nut leveling. I learned this lesson the hard way, and ended up with a lot of not square stuff. Also, driving a couple brad nails keeps the boards from shifting when you run the pocket hole screws, another thing that can land you out of square.
Did you use your handheld ripcuts as a reference? Generally you just do that to size it manageable for a more accurate cut. Not a big deal either way.
Also, just use paste wax on that surface.
Good tips, thanks! I *think* my garage floor is flat / level towards the back, but definitely not the front, so I thought I was safe...but you've inspired me to check the next time I think of it, using my big level. 😂
I like the brad nail idea to keep the boards from twisting while placing the screws!
I did use the handheld ripcuts as reference, largely because I didn't trust my janky old table saw to make the broken down boards straight, either, lol. But I just replaced it with a SawStop so going forward I'll be able to go that route.
Paste wax is a great idea! Durable and easily re-applied! Thanks again!
Gravity. T nuts won’t fall out because they have all the weight on top of them pushing down and in turn, pushing them up into the wood.
Hey Brent! That's true, but they were kind of loose and slipping out on me before I was ready to tip the cabinets over and I wanted to make sure they stayed in place once I did tip it over. Otherwise you're totally right!
To square or not to square you need to invest in some clamping squares they are cheap and dry fit dry fit dry fit.
wrt t nuts, looks like in the video you had them mounted on the wrong side of the board (maybe that was just me) The rule of thumb is T nuts are on the opposite side of the wood that your bolt is coming from. Always use a bolt to pull them in the hole should be a tight fit for the bolt the spikes on the T part of the nut(flange) are there only to resist twisting. Nice build though.
Thanks Steve! Yes, I definitely need to get some clamping squares. 😅 Cheers!
put the T nuts on inside of boards so ytou are pullimg them tightewr instead of pulling them out..