EV Charging For $1 Per 100 Miles
Vložit
- čas přidán 16. 06. 2024
- Electric Pro Academy - Real skills to make real money.
Synopsis:
By installing a separate metering system for your home’s EV charging in Indianapolis, the utility (AES) will offer 2.3¢ per kWh off-peak rates. This is one of the main reasons why Jefferson Electric opted to convert part of their fleet to Tesla Model 3’s this year. Follow along as we independently meter one of our project manager’s outdoor home charging station.
Without a structure to mount the meter to, we’ll be grounding a strut base next to Sean’s shed, and then running our direct-burial EV charging cable underground to the shed…
…Hold on, did we just say “direct-burial EV charging cable”?! You bet! Special thanks to TCER Direct (www.tcerdirect.com/electric-v...) for their #6, 600V, 75C, TWHN, sunlight-resistant, direct-burial, joist-pull Power & Control Tray Cable. We’d recommend you give it a look if your business is taking on more EV installation jobs.
As usual, we’ll also include some recommendations and points of professionalism employed at Jefferson Electric to maximize our time & profits, and value to our customers.
If the instruction in this video is unclear or skew to what you are searching for, feel free to comment below for additional assistance. Got a question or ideas for a future video? Leave a comment below and submit your idea here: forms.clickup.com/f/23xa9-70/...
Thank you for watching; we value your feedback and monitor this channel daily.
EPro-To-Call:
1-on-1 Call with Joel Walsman -- Click here to signup: electric-pro-academy.square.s...
Products We’d Recommend:
*EPRO endorses pro-level tools & materials, and receives a small commission for purchases through our links from Amazon & other affiliate programs.
[] Sika PostFix: amzn.to/3uyycbf
[] Knipex Lineman's Pliers: amzn.to/3ImHf4E
[] Klein Tools Insulated Screwdriver Set: amzn.to/3aiNXMB
[] Irwin 16 oz. Fiberglass Hammer: amzn.to/3OSVYGP
[] Dewalt 20V Max 2.5" Band Saw (DCS371): amzn.to/3akkuSf
[] AMES Post Hole Digger: amzn.to/3RhsrZb
[] Dewalt 20V Max XR Brushless Hammer Drill (DCD999): amzn.to/3NPPeIC
[] TEKTON 1/2" Torque Wrench: amzn.to/3AzIJH0
[] Holstery MagMaster: amzn.to/3AwPzgg
[] Klein Tools 7-in-1 Nut Driver (32807MAG): amzn.to/3OWogjR
[] Swanson Magnetic Level: amzn.to/3Rmdo0u
[] Dewalt 20V Max XR Brushless Sawzall (DCS367): amzn.to/3yotUnP
[] Dewalt 20V Max XR Brushless Impact Driver (DCF887): amzn.to/3InXVJ5
[] Oatey All-Weather Medium PVC Cement: amzn.to/3P9aQ3z
[] 100' 10/3 UF Cable: amzn.to/3P5nWig
[] SPKLINE SDS-Plus Ground Rod Driver Bit: amzn.to/3bQl4aJ
[] Estwing 3-lb. Hand Sledge: amzn.to/3ajZ3kv
[] Ergodyne Skullerz 8945F(x) Bump Cap: amzn.to/3au0ywe
[] Hubbell NEMA 14-50R: amzn.to/3RjTS4s
[] BMZX Tesla Charger Wall Mount: amzn.to/3PerSgH
[] CompanyCam: ssqt.co/m2puZO2
National Electrical Code (NEC) referenced in this video:
Free Access Here: www.nfpa.org/codes-and-standa...
[] Surge Protection [NEC 230.67]
[] "On" Orientation In Panel [NEC 240.81]
[] Underground Wire Requirements [NEC Table 300.5]
[] Separation of Grounds & Neutrals [NEC 250.32(B)(1)]
[] Conduit Fill [NEC Chapter 9 and Annex C]
[] 6# Grounding Electrode Conductor [NEC 250.66(A)]
Outline:
0:00 - Introduction
1:48 - Project Overview
2:29 - Materials
3:59 - Earth-Moving
5:03 - Setting Meter Rack Poles
6:32 - Prepping Meter Base & Panel
10:24 - Cutting Struts
11:55 - Planning Underground Cabling
13:07 - Final-Prepping Meter Base & Panel
15:01 - Panel & Meter Base Wiring Connections
17:49 - Overhead Vs. Underground
18:43 - Checking On Post-Fix
19:05 - Torquing Panel & Meter Base Wiring Connections
21:04 - Constructing Strut Rack
24:54 - Mounting Panel & Meter Base To Strut Rack
28:59 - Running Meter Base Conduit
31:04 - Trable Cable!
34:50 - Mounting NEMA 14-50
35:43 - Running Panel Conduit
39:25 - Running Provisional UF Cable
41:06 - Ground Rods
43:41 - Terminating Wires In Panel
46:27 - Terminating Grounding Wire
50:32 - Terminating Wire In The NEMA 14-50
55:49 - EV Charging Extras
58:13 - Labeling, Documenting, & Costs
Connect With Us:
Electric Pro Academy is a multimedia team dedicated to training and instructing DIYers and professional electricians for the growth and dignity of the craft nationwide.
/ electricproacademy
/ electricproacademy
odysee.com/@ElectricPro
Jefferson Electric installs and services residential, commercial, solar, and Tesla systems in Indianapolis, IN.
www.jeffersonelectricllc.com/
/ jeffersonelectric
/ jefferson-electric-llc
You said several times that the service could be used only for EV charging, not heating a shed.
Seeing that there are ground bars, you shouldn’t have called the neutral bar a ground bar.
The U-bolts also need to be galvanized as do the holes you drilled in the cabinets.
@@ElectricProAcademy That's actually a legit reason for running wire for a future circuit. The more plausible reason may or may not be shady, depending upon the exact terms of the service, and how the billing is done. If during the other 16 hours of the day that are basically the waking hours, the meter charges normal rates, then I'd personally not feel like a thief using the other circuit during waking/peak hours.
@@EfficientRVer Most co. have on peak- off peak time of day rates. There is a special rate for charging cars.
He ran the wire but not terminated and rates were stated normal during normal hours so he is covered now it's up to the user
Never EVER be embarrassed by turning a profit. If you do quality work and stand by the labor, then you deserve to make money.
As a consumer, I really appreciate the way you spelled out the cost and mark-up. I am often afraid to proceed with an installation because I can't get a good idea of what it is going to cost. I was really surprised how inexpensive this job was. It is great to see someone so knowledgeable and skilled who takes pride in a job well done. Thanks!
Quick way to measure strut, each hole is 2 inches. You could've counted 15 holes and made a cut, I'm addicted to your videos, your content has lit a spark and is making me want to go out on my own , stay safe out there
I have zero problem paying someone in the trades to do a job AS LONG as they show pride in their work. Electricians, you have my upmost respect. I’ve shocked myself enough i’ll pay for the more complicated stuff 😂. Not sure why I was directed to watch your video but enjoyed the premise.
Just so everyone understands, the difference between shocked and electrocution is life or death. electrocution = death
shocked = still alive. You were shocked my friend.
@@GRAZINGARIZONA corrected
@@providentpathfinders219 That's at least a $100 surcharge for correcting his grammar. The invoice is in the mail Provident Pathfinders. Get a panel inspection, and a super marked up $26 plastic bracket, and we'll have your job up to $1200 no sweat
@@gorak9000 ahhh the beauty of shopping around. We will leave the stay at home moms and 55+ communities for you to rip off.
@@providentpathfinders219 You clearly didn't watch _this_ video until the end... I'm not an electrician, I don't rip people off. I do my own electrical work (to code I will add) so that I don't get ripped off myself. I was making a snarky comment about the video itself and what he says towards the end
This is the first video that I watch of your work man let me tell you I really like that you bring up a code reference as you speak you not just telling or saying how to do things you’re actually bringing up code references keep up the good work
Always great passion and excitement. Very nice install and well thought out. Yes it can always be done better with more time.
Great vid. We never used duc seal to seal holes due to it eventually cracking and let water in. Use a bolt with washers on both sides then silicone the outside of nut & washer. Think that the PVC is longer then 18" so being that with the 6/3 & 10/3 cable you would have more then 3 current carrying conductors and would have to derate ( yes old obsolete term ) the wire. If home owner decided he wanted two separate 120 volt circuits in the garage would be better to run 4 wires to save money on two single pole AFCI breakers verses an expensive two pole AFCI breaker. Think this is the first electric vidio that I saw a sparky use a torque driver to tighten wires. You did a high quality job there
Hello from Noblesville!! Just subscribed. Not an electrician but did plenty of electrical work in the Navy, always found it fascinating. Nice work.
Tray cable tip: the red string in your multi-conductor is used to cut the insulation. Once you find it, wrap it around your screwdriver a few times and pull. No risk in damaging the wires
Are you telling me the CEO of Jefferson Electric doesn't know about rip cords?? For SHAME
@@gorak9000 He may be from one of the many areas that have a Residential Master Electrician. Not sure why there are such titles but...
@@gorak9000 If he did, he would use it...
I was going to suggest the same trick using the screwdriver. Been using that trick for years , I'm a retired Aussie Electrician
I used to install alarm systems and always used the "draw string" to take the sleeve off. good tip to any electrician
Glad found your channel. Remind me a little bit of Dustin from ElectricianU channel & Bill from sparky channel; in that you make your vids, fun, energetic…..interesting, and just cool👍🏻
Glad to see another sparky channel making great content and being excited about everything, which not always easy, especially when dive into code. Liked other vid you made when fishing wire thru basement, and you have such a great attitude, draws you in, & makes you wanna watch & see what ya gonna do👍🏻
Cheers✌🏻
Love your positivity when working. It makes a huge difference in getting good results, plus it just makes everyone’s day a pure pleasure.
For your locknuts, I'd recommend using a C-spanner / wrench. Sets are sold for coil-overs and only cost about $35 and cover nuts from 22mm to 110mm (approx 3/4 to 4 inches). Far greater torque, less damage and less chance of injury. (Available online from Am....)
First of all, dude, I LOVE your passion for your work and for sharing that knowledge.
Second of all, electric cars and EVSE is where it's at right now - lots of demand for both, at least here, in Connecticut. Another thing to realize about electric cars - the maintenance is very cheap. Just tires and windshield washer fluid for most cars. Even brakes wear out a lot slower because of the regenerative braking. And most manufacturers are promising to replace batteries when the time comes for a reasonable price (figure 5-7K for a Tesla, for example).
And don’t forget you’re not paying tax to help maintain the roads you drive on.
@@RCMServices Depends on your state. VA charges extra on registration for all but gas guzzlers to offset road costs (despite the number of privately maintained gravel roads, potholes, huuuuge puddles etc) and there are a lot of toll roads also.
Excellent information and video, love your passion for the trade. strangely, I was going to click stop about half way through and head off to bed... but then it started raining and I sat there thinking, "I'm not walking away while these guys are working in the rain." I know it doesn't make any sense when I'm watching a video and don't even know you. I think it's just a weird artifact of owning my own business for most of my life and not never asking anyone to do something I wouldn't do myself.
Thx for the call-out on the tent. Glad to see it was helpful and hope it makes your life easier
I LOVE IT! It's surprising how hard it can be to see the obvious at times.
@@joelwalsman773 We are all learning from each other and this is a great forum to share. I have learned a lot from your videos so it feels good that I could "give back" a little bit.
Joel, I had watched this the other day a d told you l liked it but forgot to like it here on CZcams!!🙂 I really have enjoyed your videos, keep up the great work!! Great job with the ads also.
God bless you and your crews!!!🙂🙂
Great educational session! You had me hooked the whole hour tossing out code specs like rhymes. Encourages me to find that career with continuous training. Plus I have an electric vehicle and work on them so this is even more relevant.
i mentioned a canopy when you were doing the house with 3 phase being removed and 400-amp service in the rain we always used to say make your own conditions have a cut table and work like a gentleman now you just need the worktable lol
Utility side in the meter box is also topside in Texas as well.
I’ve been a electrician for a long time and never went to school like most I went to school of hard knocks learned all hands on love your videos.
how'd you get your foot in the door? I've done service installs, rework, troubleshooting, a little of everything. started learning on my own before I was even a teen. currently I'm a datacenter engineer, self taught. I'd like to change careers, hvac, lineman, something not in an office.
@@lorenzo42p just apply to companies you never know you might get lucky
@@lorenzo42p Apply with companies with no union else they will have to have an apprenticeship program which is very difficult to get into.
Once you get 8 years equivalent experience as an electrician, many union factories will hire you in as a journeyman electrician. HVAC is an excellent field. Good money to be made, and a career that will be around for a long tome commercial and residential. Many small businesses dealing with HVAC are willing to send you to school for training.
School was not required when I started my apprenticeship back in 98. Now it is in Michigan. Back then, you were just wasting your time with school, was better to get your hours to test because school hours didn't count.
When I pop over to UK in the next few weeks I need to get you a few nice little unusual tools like for example a insulated dentist type mirror to look at connections, arcing and connections in very tight spaces like panels etc…a one of a kind inspection tool!
Very easy to watch, love your videos.
I am trying to learn code too to pass an exam.
I noticed you used #6 black for grounding electrode conductor and because it is not equipment ground it does not have to be green color. Great job
In the 75 degree column you can put #6 on a 60amp breaker, 8 gauge in the 75 degree column can be on a 50, once you get into the 60 degree column which is romex it’s 6 gauge 55amps max(50amp standard) and 8 gauge 40, this is why we use 6-2 se cable to maintain 60amps instead of 6-2nmb or using thhn to maintain that 75 degree ampacity.
Thoroughly enjoyed this video, watched 100%. Great stuff.
Thanks Tom! Hoping we can knock out a project together soon! I will be in touch.
@@joelwalsman773 Me too
You should uncoil the neutral wire on your surge protector. When it's coiled it acts like a little inductor that could decrease the effectiveness of the surge protector.
Eaton Twirl Nuts are my favorite --no plastic to deteriorate over time and loosen plus reusable which makes them a better value for us.
Good job on being clear on cost.
Most people are for some reason just can’t say hey! This is what I would have charged…
Your Passion for Excellence in the job you did is admirable! I am considering the purchase of an EV, and just wondering, as you are in Indiana, being a "next door neighbor" to Illinois, if you have heard or if you know if ConEdison (for Crook, er, I mean Cook County) has a similar Discount for a dedicated EV Service? I did call the ConEd customer #, and the very poorly trained operator didn't have a clue of what I was talking about. When asked to speak to a "supervisor", I was placed on hold for 30 minutes, and then gave up! Keep making these great videos!
@@ElectricProAcademy not much of a saving when. You’ll need to hire a licensed electrician to do the necessary wiring, and to install a new meter pan and panel. when one can do this simple install them self for way under $1000 in materials, any wholesale supply will sell to anyone who buys regularly from them, i bought everything did my 3 pole, anchor,s guy wires, hardware, ACSR cable 2 runs 900 feet.. $0.88 per foot high voltage 14500 volt line, transformer pole, double lug 400 amp meter base, 2,, 200 amp under ground service lines 250 feet, 2, 200 amp service panels, one to shed one to shop, just under $4000 cnd installed my self
Interesting video. I did wince when you talked about level vertical surfaces, the term is plumb.
Man, I've got that Klein multi-socket tool and, not only is it big in the bag, but it takes (me) forever to set it up the right way for the job at hand, and then, lots of times, the sockets aren't deep enough since they don't have the hollow shaft you often find on individual tools. So most of the time I find myself going for a dedicated nut driver. That said, the multi tool has saved my bacon a couple of times when the individual nut drivers were not around.
Nice video, over the years when tightening bigger locknuts I’ll use a pair of channeloock brand pliers the 440 size or 460. You will get a lot of leverage and you can see the locknut really cut into the steel.
Also, if your are building strut racks a chain vise is the way to go. You can really make accurate cuts using a combination square and a bandsaw. Just a few thoughts.
@@ElectricProAcademy
May I as you to do a shorter version on just the cable please?
Thank you.
band saw blades are costly and dont last long. i have 3 sizes of steel pipe cutters, they will cut up to sked 40 pipe and the cutting wheel seems to never ware out, just keeps cutting and fast, how ever you do need a chain vise. no square is needed .. pipe cutter always cuts 100% square. half the things these guys do, would never pass in Ont. Canada, for one, service and transformer grounds rods must be 1" x10' minimum, 2, 10 feet a part at service, one at pole for transformer, customer is responsible for every thing even up the pole to the transformer not including it. power company dont cover any thing on customer land, you have to upply the ground rod for there transformer and #4 barre stranded copper ground wire to reach from rod to there transformer and stack wires and pvc or steel.. 400 amp service must have a triple 500 copper4 feet out the weather head to the meter base, not aluminum as he has done in other videos..no service pannel can be out side open to weather, minimum must be in a shed, with exception of a temperay service can be on a rack with roof or in a water tight box on a post
@@arnoldromppai5395 combination square is needed for other reasons as well. And bandsaw blades are supplied by the contractor. So I don’t care if they wear out.
@@mcarroll598 YOU GET CHARGED FOR ONE ON EVERY JOB
@@arnoldromppai5395 I cannot believe he is putting the box outside, there is no such thing as weatherproof in the north. That would never fly in Ohio as far as i know.
Love your video and the attention to detail and adherence to power utility standards. My only concern here is the real ROI for this $$ project is highly dependent on the utility companies commitment to a maintain a low rate over many years of service, which we all know will increase as more EV's take advantage of the night time charging. Also one needs to weight the cost of that same $$ investment placed in a blue chip stock against the 0.12 rate. I think one will find that the actual ROI is quite long and may take a decade to really pay off. IMHO, I think that a dedicated wind or solar/battery storage system would also be a good option for the homeowner to consider to provide independence from future increasing rates of the power generation companies affecting ROI.
For those conduit locknuts I used either a punch and hammer, a pair of conduit locknut pliers, or both sometimes.
screw driver and lineman pliers as a hammer. they're always within reach
Your pricing is spot on. I was at about 4850. We would run 2 independent #6 to each ground rod. One from the panel and one from the meter. Inspectors require that here. I would have wrapped the one wire all the way around on the panel and made a larger loop on the hard 90 in the meter. We are on 2020 NEC and required to use gfi breakers. We just always run pvc underground for our stuff as a good practice. I just think it’s better protected and more serviceable.
Interesting. With regards to the separate grounds ... The inspectors/code isn't worried about ground loops?!
I won't comment on retail price of job, because obviously I wouldn't pay that for the work as being in the trade. Overall, I believe it to be a good install. The 2 significant things I would have done differently, is a different Nema 3R receptacle . I don't understand why box fill doesn't count for these manufactures . :-) I hate shoving 20lbs of stuff into a 10 lb sack. I would have upgraded to a hospital outlet. The other thing would have been conduit, not direct burial. And it would have been oversized conduit. IMO that is the hard work (the trench). What if in 10 years the new standard is a 100amp circuit. It gives you some options for a few extra dollars. Only a decade ago, 100amp service was sufficient for a home. 40 years ago it was common to see 60amp feeding a home. Why not future proof the underground with large conduit
Excellent suggestion. People need to understand that code in the bare minimum not best practice.
How did you like that foam for setting the post?
Appreciated the ongoing comments/information you provided. I noticed a spot(s) where copper to aluminum connections existed - for example the provisional copper to aluminum bus bar. Isn't this also where 'NOLOX' is (also) suppose to be used?
@@ElectricProAcademy I was referring to Copper to Aluminum connection at 44:30 (also one at 9:30). "physically separated" ... ummm ok. ... isn't that an Alum bus bar at 44:30 with a copper wire going into it? A line from a "noalox" container says "aluminum to copper connections". Thanks.
@@ElectricProAcademy Hmmm. Nothing to say?
@@TerranVisitor Panels now days are rated for copper and aluminum. Noalox is not even required for service cables anymore, insectors still like to see it, but it IS NOT needed. Look up the specs for any brand panel, and you will see that those bars are rated for both copper and aluminum.. You seriously think that you would have to put deox on all your ground wires going into that ground bad? lol
@@jarrydee2799 Thanks much for the reply and information / opinion.
Does your local code or utility company not allow for Meter Main combo's? Also that wire is something i come across in commercial and industrial locations throughout my state, when it comes to strut straps, always check the type. STD for standard, TW for thin wall and some cases universal. Dewalt impact and Milwaukee 6 inch extenstion.
Those spring nuts are designed to drop into the strut channel when parallel and then they will rotate 90° and stop turning when you start tightening the bolts. So you can clip the springs off and prefab them on your boxes so you can just push the whole thing into your mounted strut so you don't have to futz with aligning the nuts to the bolts while holding the boxes in space.
Might this install have been easier with one of the combo meter base/panels designed for RVs?
Finally found someone that that has the respect for the trade thank you
i always use a step bit to drill through panels or JP boxes. you will not have that torque ripping your arm off when the bit gets stuck.
Klein 56999 1/2" & 3/4" locknut wrench. I never had such a fancy tool but I did have a flat ( no offset angle) closed end wrench that I filed out to fit 1/2" locknuts. Save tearing up stuff in tight remodel panels.
Flat screwdriver looks fine for what you are doing.
What about using slip sleeves for frost? Or is this not a issue in your area? Thanks.
35 years in utility company. I would love to follow up on your work. I'm in NYC, what shit there is around here. Happy New Year. Be well
Where did you pick up the post caps. I am installing two meter racks at my place, and need caps for my 3" galvanized pipe.
Can the poles that you mounted the panels to function kinda like a ground rod since they are in contact with the panel? I'm just curious obviously it's not a ground rod but it made me wonder if you were to mount a sub panel that way would you inadvertently be installing an additional grounding point
Earlier he said the only breaker in the panel can be for the EV charger, yet he ran a 10/3 UF as future to the shed.
I'm trying to find the code regarding support requirements for an outdoor panel rack like you've got going on, but I think you just mentioned the expanding foam, not burial depth and material requirements.
Any guidance?
Apartments need 20amp 120v chargers. I really hope people start acknowledging you don’t need huge chargers for electric cars. It would be really expensive for a building with 100 apartments to put in 100 chargers at 6KW. Instead put in 100 plugs that are 20 amp 120v. This allows a 12 hour charge to add 100 miles to your car. Which is 700 miles per week. Very few people drive that much.
Then have 2-4 50kw chargers for people who need to fill up in under 1 hour. They can park their for a bit and then move their vehicle.
This is so much cheaper and better use of our resources as we move to an electric vehicle fleet.
Thanks for all the tips on what to look for when my electrician tries to upsell me 😉
Not sure how your climate is, but we always use an expansion joint on PVC before going into the ground for frost heaving the pipes prevents many broken male adaptors/fittings attached to the meter base
@@ElectricProAcademy we usually see the issue on older installations 15+yrs but some newer stuff as well but not as common, we put a new service underground at our cottage and it's surprising to see how much movement there actually is the joints closes completely up in winter and opens a good 2" in summer.
Lots of great content as always. I was really hoping to watch you tuck that box. I always find those hard to close up and was hoping to watch a pro.
If you use 1 1/4 fender washer behind the spring nut,they're alot easier to work with.Your able to move them left to right super easy.Just a suggestion.Love your channel
What brand of wall charger are you going to install?
I was a master electrician for 35 years and have done it all except. solar and ev charging. Im so out of sinc its sad bc I had to give up my career bc of my severe diabetes disabled me and I love watching you do these videos but can you please finish the videos completely even if it takes awhile to get the rest of it like this video go back and show the end product after the power company terminates their end. I have bought so many new tools bc of your videos for just in case I go back to work some day. Thank you
Thank you 👍👍
Trenchers a great till you hit a rock, then yah gotta shovel dig that rock out! I use a garden hose to break away the dirt.
UK regs prohibit disconnecting the conduit to route cable... the conduit system MUST be secure and complete before installing cable ... and 90C is standard for underground cable here
O man i think i just found a new channel to subscribe 🔥🔥👍👍😁😁
How do inspectors measure the torque of your connections. Do they literally come with a torque wrench/some other type of device to measure and hook it up and make sure its correct
Blue Mule stainless steel hose racks make great brackets for the charge cord and no UV problems -- but the aesthetic might not be to all tastes.
better hen plastic crap in 40 below. i have tons of stainless steel rod, flat bar, pipe and a welder, %0 cost
Why do you leave copper wire exposed when terminating?
I've seen this in your other videos as well
Did I miss you talking about a utility mark out , or there was no mention of it.
Pictures too, level or what I like to call 'eye right'. If there is a supposed straight edge nearby that will be used to reference the job, ask the customer.
ur a fascinating person. I like ur channel
Could you comment on some of the grounding direction in the boxes? I understand having only one bonding point in the system, and so that grounding bushing was just for grounding the meter box? And is the locknut in the meter box enough of a connection?
And second question is why can't/don't you use the ground bars in the main panel if it's all bonded? I didn't get that part. I prefer the look of neutrals and grounds on separate bars, but that doesn't really matter.
This was an interesting video though, thanks for making it.
in Ont Canada you must,, but for them it would look a lot nicer
Dewalt's bandsaw is cute...but I'll pay for Milwaukee's 3 inch any day. Size and weight is almost the same...capacity is much more in line with what I do. Our utilies here in Mass require sweep 90s to be steel to avoid cutting into the inside of a PVC 90.
I like working on my rolling cart it's basicly a table on wheels I guess I'm spoiled but watching you work on the ground my cart was all I could think of just like that canopy bring try working on a cart you'll be hooked
You may have covered this verbally, but I skipped around a lot. Why do you put in a neutral? The Tesla EVSE that is being installed does not need a neutral, it only needs 2 hots and a ground.
@@ElectricProAcademy That's what I thought. FYI, no Level II EVSE uses 120vac, they all use 205-240vac. By installing the neutral, you provide the ability of Level I EVSE's to use it (Level I EVSE is 120 only), but at much lower charge rate.
I have a 125/250 V, 30 A, 14-30R outlet in my garage. Will I need to replace my 14-30R outlet for a NEMA 14-50 outlet for ev charging?
You aren't really telling us what your mark-up is, just that this job is ~150/hr + materials. To some, that may seem high. To me, it seems like there's too many people :-) But it's being filmed for YT... and digging trenches takes time and cool toys. (our electrician actually line-items the trenching as he's renting the machine to do it. PoCo will trench from the pole to the meter, but we have to dig between buildings.)
No gland nuts on the box coupler? Maybe I missed it. :)
I like this dude. Wish there was a decent electrician in my country.
things are not always what they a peer
Should get one of those Milwaukee portable band saws. You could cut dozens at once.
Maybe.
At 9:39 Shouldn't the ground wire be connected to the ground bar in the upper left, that's screwed to the case? Even tho its bonded with the neutral bar bonding screw.
in Ont. Canada it must
No slip expansion joints?
You need gfci breaker since your installing 4 blade receptacle.
Here NZ buried grounding rods would be looked at with a sigh as they pull out their pen
Grounding rods usually need to be exposed for inspection, and checking its connection, NZ inherit most of the rules from the UK.
I, just last week was told by an inspector that my ground wires were supposed to be "solid wire", I had to produce the code book that says nothing about the wire having to be solid, of course that pissed him off. Then he said I had to "bond" the ground to the neutral in the meter can and the disconnect (mounted directly below the meter. That's when I gave up.
do you have high density polyethylen conduit for outdoor instalation like we do here ? it's much more resistant than PVC
Yes! We don't install it a whole lot, but we love when customers opt for that option on their own, like in this project: czcams.com/video/qeLGeliuZjw/video.html
32:00 don‘t get too excited about your cable… check doncaster cables EV-Ultra cable
Pity about knocking out part of the bigger knockout on the main board. Not sure how I'd go about sealing that.
Those multi-sized knockouts are a real pain - I discovered before that it's nearly impossible to knock out the smaller size without bending the larger ones. Best to just knock out the whole thing, and use "reducing washers" to get back to the right size hole
only need to knock it out enough to fit pliers in the gap. I've had some good luck by rolling the unwanted metal out of the way around the pliers.
this is why i have a whole set of panel shear dies up to 4.25" and an impact.. driver, clean fast cut every time with no blow outs, id never drill or hole saw
I agree you set the market rate. However be concerned about setting it too high that you make DIYers out of things. We were quoted like 4000 or more to pave our driveway yeah we can't afford that so now we're gonna buy a couple bags a month. I'm glad I know electrical and plumbing. Awesome video. Yes quality of workmanship.
Yeah, his prices seem really steep - $500 for a regular 14-50 outlet right next to the panel in a garage? Holy s****! That's definitely "you dropped a ton of money on an EV, so another $500 for an outlet won't phase you too much (pun intended)" pricing. I put a 14-50 on the far side of my garage a few years ago for a welder plug, and the materials weren't very expensive - 50' of 6-3 (welder only needed 6-2, but I specifically ran 6-3 incase I ever needed something that needed the neutral too, and or for a car charger in the future), a 50 amp breaker, and a 14-50 outlet and surface mount box and some flexible metal conduit didn't come out to that much. Less than $150 I think, and that's from the box store - electricians usually get better prices at the supply houses. I'll just keep doing my own thanks...
@@gorak9000 the wire is the most expensive thing. Yeah for that price I was totally expecting him to put in an installed unit and not a outlet for a customer supplied cord.
@@gorak9000 I installed a generator hook up for a guy he wanted to cut pennies and spend dollars. He didn't want to pay the price for 3+ ground copper wire and wanted to use 2+ ground 6AWG. I talked him out of it but I wish we went up to a larger gauge. Well would you know it after it's all installed properly it was a shock that he could run 240V equipment in his shop. He wanted me to test it and I'm like it's running we're on generator now, it wouldn't run everything at once but all the lights and the refrigerator and some heat with a load management. We ran everything off of a pole behind generator until we tripped the 50 amp breaker turning on the sort of not so heat pump heat. (it had electric heating elements some thing like 15 kW that were set to turn on also unbeknownst to us.) The goal was to be ready for the grid to go down for an extended period of time but buying the cheapest thing you could at Costco.
$4436 / $0.12/kWh = 36,967 kWh * 4mi/kWh = 147,867 mi of driving range at regular household electric rate for the cost of this installation.
So cool you guys all drive Teslas
Timely video, I'm about to install my charging station. Lately, the EV community is getting pretty sensitive about the 14-50r receptacles. Apparently, lots of inexpensive receptacles have been melting down from continuous charging. They're recommending the Hubbell or Bryant industrial parts, to avoid a potential fire. I just bought the Bryant 9450FR from Zoro.
You can always hardwire them as well, saves $75-85 for a quality outlet plus you are suppose to use the GFCI breaker for an outdoor outlet, those are over $100, when hardwired you don't need the GFCI breaker.
Yeah I can't believe the customer spent $5k for this and then got a cheap outlet
What size ground wire is that for your grounding electrode ?
250.66(A)
Better pay for talent than labor works.. that pay/cost is nothing compare to ur talent and expertise (godbless to ur work stay safety ) in our line of work:) btw im from Philippines
I wish you where one of my teachers. When I went to school. Instead of the old ones that didn't want to teach anything
Don’t forget to not drop(throw) your trash onto the soil: i.e. knockout pieces, PVC cuttings, trimmed wire insulation, drill shavings, clipped off screw ends, I watched all of the above get discarded into the job site environment on this video. If you are worried about $500-$1,000 for a landscaper to fix track marks wait until a customer litigates you for micro plastics in their soil and you have to pay for remediation, just an observation.
26:34 yeah, but your bolts aren‘t, because you failed to use watertight bolts to mount the housings!
Your pricing sounds great. An electrician quoted me about 4k just to switch to a 200amp panel without all the digging.
we do 200 amp upgrades for about 2500-2800.
@@jarrydee2799 where are you located?
why are you installing the outlet in a not fire rated wall?
so since you can only have the EV breaker on that box how do you run power to the shed for anything non-EV related if you can not mount the breaker on that box.
Because the EV rate is only available during off-peak hours we are allowed to tie in additional circuits to the same panel, as long as they don't do all of their woodworking at 2am 😅
Sounds like a good price to me bro. Good money for 1 days work. How do you feel about subbing out your ditch work to a directional boring company? They can use a missile on the smaller size conduits and shoot HPDE conduit underground for you - pass the cost on to the customer
I love it, except for a couple of things:
1. If their cost is high it can cause me to lose the work.
2. I can't control their timing and they're SO busy the customer doesn't want to wait 3-4 months.
you can calibrate your own torque wrench with a digital luggage scale you just chock up a bolt in a vise measure distance out on handle and pull with scale to see the force it takes there are videos on u tube
There are no links to the parts or tools used.
All that and you're going 14-50 instead of hardwire?