How Can It Take Two Weeks to Replace a Wheel Stud ?!? Fixing a Ford 9" Axle
Vložit
- čas přidán 2. 07. 2024
- How can a simple 30 minute repair turn take my YJ out of commission for two weeks?!? Well I'll show you! After stripping out a lug nut, I opened a whole can of worms trying to replace the stud.
If a BleepinJeep video has ever helped you consider returning the favor by:
• Supporting us on Patreon here: / bleepinjeep
• Becoming a Member here on CZcams: bit.ly/2wGeSec
• Buying a T-Shirt Here: www.bleepinjeep.com/store
• Or Just leaving a kind comment on FB here: / bleepinjeep
This product is meant for entertainment purposes only. Your mileage may vary. Do not try this at home. Void where prohibited. Some assembly required. For off-road use only. Slippery when wet. Batteries not included. Do not use while operating a motor vehicle, heavy equipment, cherokee XJ, wrangler TJ, wrangler JK, or any Jeep vehicle, especially the newer Fiat ones. How-to videos may be too intense for some viewers and children under 30 years of age. Please remain seated until the 4x4 ride has come to a complete stop. Studies have shown viewing these videos causes increased cancer risks in laboratory test people. I am not a professional, I have no training, I'm not even particularly good at horse whispering. Don't believe everything that you know. Please keep your hands in the vehicle at all times. Do not tap on glass. Do not eat anything that has been on the floor for more than 3 days. Keep your hands to yourself. Not to be taken internally. Reproduction strictly prohibited. Driver does not carry cash. Objects in Bleepinjeep mirrors may be farther than they appear.
09862 - Auta a dopravní prostředky
Doing damn near anything can end up taking me 2 weeks.
Thats funny as hell
We need more yj videos:) .. keep up the great work
Great vid, Tyler! Can't wait to see what you do next!
Next time try a farm supply store or a farm tractor dealer, they carry weird stuff like that when the auto parts stores don't. in a pinch you could also use studs instead of bolts for a quick repair to get you home, or replace the bolts with a stud that has long enough threads so you can put a nut and lock washer on the backside and the then lug on the front, and yes there is such a thing.
BTW... if you pull the axles apart you can drill and ream the axle flange out to accommodate pressed in wheel studs.
I had this happen on my TJ and it was a PAIN to get removed. Great video, Tyler!
P.s. The intro sounded like a Duracell commercial
If you're worried about strength just weld in a strut above the notch that allows a socket to still fit through the opening. thanks for the video.
I think it will be just fine. Still way stronger than a stock setup I would think.Maybe I think too much lol
i recently had a 2 week wheel stud replacement. lol. totally different. but funny, a friends 1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee, press in stud, so wasnt expecting rear brake to have both drum & disc brakes, which was only slightly more work, front caliper was siezed & had to order it, so thats when I decided to fix broke wheel stud, since I had bought it....
well ended up needing sledge hammer to knock old stud out, it was stuck tight, I have used my big ball peen hammer quite a few times in the past without issue. this time it wouldnt budge it, so pulled out sledge hammer. now replacing it, is where my can of worms happened. my impact wouldnt pull it through, I normally use 1 of 3 electric impacts, my Dewalt or MAC are my go to ones I use primarily, they wouldnt budge it, so I go get my snap on, which of course had dead battery & had to wait for it to charge nearly an hour, then it wouldnt do it, so now go drag compressor from building, cords & hose, and my impact, then my bigger impact, 1 is a heavy duty Snap-On, nope wouldnt budge. thinking maybe I need to invest in some 3/4" stuff, but never need it, until this. ok, cussing as my breaker bar was at primary home, I used a cheater pipe on 2 different 1/2" ratchets, I managed to break both ratchets. so its now late in afternoon, & too late for a 90 round trip drive to go get breaker from main house, plus I cant fix Jeep completely, as still got to wait for front caliper. my next 3 days off over 2 weeks it poured down rain, and the 4th day it misted, & rained off & on all day, I tried to wait it out, but finally gave up, went out as soon as rain stopped, used breaker bar with cheater bar, & stud pulled in without issue, then replaced caliper. bled brakes, but 2 weeks...... lol.p.s. if I had not fixed it that day, my next 3 days off, it snowed on 2 of them, yesterday I was called into work, so couldnt have anyway, & unsure what tomorrow on Sunday will bring. lol....
8 min longer than it should of been.
Could of threaded a normal bolt with a dye set.
Could of switched to press fit so you can get parts anywhere.
That notch works but how many studs do you plan to break vs the strength lost in the bracket?
Let's make a 12-minute video on how to replace a lug stud the hard way. Geeez. Drill out the whole find a parts store press in stud. Done.
Would a standard dye cut a grade 8 bolt? I don't know just curious.
@@t54760
You are correct. They will not cut it.
I understand exactly what you’re saying but thread in or press in a 2 inch long bolt wont fit through a 1.5 in gap
You ever tried to thread a grade 8 bolt?
McMaster Carr has EVERY kind of hardware you’ll ever need.
They had the bolts, but they were over $5 each! I wasn't willing to fork over that much money for a bolt...plus shipping.
I have 35 spline G2 chromoly axles in my Jeep and they are screwing wheel studs too. I think they're actually kind of common in the aftermarket.
My 88 YJ came with a D35 non c clip axle. That was the worst experience I had with an axle set up. It kept burning up seals and bearings. The retaining ring at one point even slipped off the axle! The semi float axle could be an advantage. But only if you break an axle and are running drum breaks. Otherwise it’s just a nightmare! Personally I don’t have a press (yet). Doing seals and bearings is way harder than it needs to be! That’s why after a lot of research I swapped in a Ford 8.8. It has disc brakes and C clips so the seals and bearings just get tapped into the axle tube. And if I do break an axle shaft the disc brakes will hold the tire in to get me off the trail. I’ve even seen “Super 88” kit that coverts the 8.8 into a semi float. I honestly don’t know why anyone would do such a thing.
Freeze heat method works incredibly well. How I learned this was when I was 16 and a buddy needed to change the starter ring on a old chebby 350 4spd. Cut old one off with a grinder (scared us when it snapped lol) froze the flywheel and stuck the ring in the oven and it slid on pretty as you please
I used this method putting in a freeze plug!
Nice job!!!!!!! u r great!
Had this happen to me at Moab this spring on my super 8.8 axle. Ended up going to the napa and buying wheel bolts like the euro cars use (has a taper next to the hex) and screwing that through the wheel right into the axle flange. You might add a few of those to your toolkit as well. Use red loctite.
That was my first thought for a quick and dirty fix. Cut the bad bolt flush with flange, should be able to back it out then without notching backing plate, then just use a lug bolt instead of a lug nut to put it back on.
"this flange (voice crack) here" 😂 sorry it made me laugh, voice cracks get the best of us.
Great info tho! We also need more videos of YJs or Project Tetnis
Ya, had a cold. What can you do?
That part that's notched is still far stronger than the stock style retainer plate. In my opinion it will be just fine. I would have done the same thing, or used studs. I've been into Heeps (got bit by the bug lol, Ya luv em or hate em) for quite a few years. Just subbed, good videos ya got on your channel. Id be willing to bet that studs were the intended fastener to use and this guy before you used bolts.
Make a patch plate that spans the two upper bearing plate bolts. Yeah it will be a little more work, on the trail, but you have a peace of mind. You can even thread them with helicoils to increase their strength, in place of the nuts 👍.
McMaster-Carr for hardware like that. They have everything.
Nice!!
can you weld/ add a U Piece across the top of that notch you made so you still have a clearence hole but keep it strong
Next time you need an odd fastener think McMaster Carr. Their 92620A748 is Grade 8 1/2-20 X 2" full thread. In stock and really fast delivery.
Is that flange for a disc brake application? Ford 9" axles that I have dealt with(stock assemblies) that had drum brakes that retaining flange was just stamped steel. Perhaps you should convert it to full floater.
E trailer. Com has 1/2 x2 fine thread wheel studs that screw in from the front. Or Summit and Jegs both have 5/8 screw in stud kits for racing would be a better upgrade all around . Drill and tap your flanges to 5/8 fine and they use a nut on the backside to lock them in place
Thats the way I would have traveled.
Did you drill out the threads before installing the proper stud or just press it in as if a normal stud were there before? Did I miss that?
Was there a way to drill a hole in the retainer instead of cutting out that whole notch?
I'm trying to order a rear axle shaft for my 1991 YJ with Dana 35. I was just about to order one off Rock Auto but the description says it is semi-floating but I'm pretty sure mine has a C clip. Did I misunderstand you, if its semi-floating then its the non C clip kind, right?? Thanks for great video!
Yukon gear & Axle has all those parts in stock. My jk has those same studs.
If you are worried about the strength on the flange get rid of the hex heads and use Allen bolts, and go to fastenal for your nuts and bolts. I would also replace all those studs by your video they don’t look healthy
Mcmaster Carr always has them in stock. 1/2x20 2" Fully threaded. Grade 8 $5.05 each or Grade 5 $6.85 for 5. McMaster can be a little expensive but they have everything.
Ya, I looked at McMaster Carr, but I just couldn't swallow $5.05 per bolt!
@@bleepinjeep then just buy one bolt, get the rig back on the road within a couple days. Then look for your cheap bolts for the shelf.
Also I would have changed the bolts to screw in studs. Bolts are a dumb design.
Grainger also has them $6.65 for a 10 pack.
www.grainger.com/product/FABORY-1-2-20-41UG34
Mcmaster is always my last resort, they have everything but it is always 5 times the price
When ever I have a unicorn part as you say, the first place I look is McMaster Carr. I have been a mechanic all my working life and I called my big yellow MC catalog my bible for finding odd ball pieces no one else had.
MMC had the bolts but they were over $5 each plus shipping!!! I just couldn't swallow that.
Why not replace those bolts with a stud and a nut? The nut torqued down will keep the stud from coming out (just as well as the head of the bolts currently do) and if you ever need to, you just loosen the nut and thread the stud outwards.
I had a wheel with axle attached depart a passenger van at highway speed. Drivers side rear end. Saw it coming out in my rear view mirror. Warned my passengers the poop was going to hit the fan. Was a university vehicle so I never heard what the cause was.
Just ideas for the next time, you could go to a machinery with a not full threaded bolt and have it threaded in 5 minutes ;)
Or maybe would be possible for them to make the holes bigger and put normal studs
I've never seen or heard of 1 or two studs breaking on the trail
oad. If your lugnuts are loose all 5 are going to get goobered when the wheel start's flopping around. I don't know if it's really possible to break a single stud with the wheel bolted on without breaking the rest of them. It always seems to happen when mounting or dismounting wheels
Hahaha exactly. The only way to break a single is overtightening or so rusted on it snaps when taking it off
Would a Ford 8.8 hold up like a Ford 9"? The maintenance sounds like it'd be easier.
9's are alot stronger.
That's a nice ring, btw.
;)
Make an emergency nut and bolt with tapered washer for trail fixes.
Good info, even though I don't even own a Jeep :-)
I see you are using BFG Miss terrains, how do you like them on different surfaces?
I just bought some as well, hope I did not mess up :-)
love these tires. The only place they suck is on ice, but that's typical for mud terrains
@@bleepinjeep Thanks! I can not wait to test them properly!
Mosier makes c- clip eliminator kits
Why would you need a press to fit shouldered studs? Just pull em through with a wheel nut. Three wheel drive??? only if you have a diff lock otherwise the snapped axle shaft would take all the drive up
Could you have added a grade 8 all thread from the front with a grade 8 bolt on the back and some green locktite? I am no engin'er just really lazy
could of skipped the nut and just threaded in a piece of threaded rod or a bolt with the head+shoulder cut off, red loctite is what you want (green is for sealing like a bolt that goes into a coolant passage) and if you were really worried get a tac weld on the back of it
Agreed with the studs and locktite. If you really wanted to sweat the load get the stud a little longer and put a nut on it
Why not drill out the axel to take stock lug bolt"
Drill it out for press in studs.
Now that the flange/ bracket is notched, you have another junk ford part... LOL c-clip not looking so bad now HAHAHA!
Idk if what I am gonna say it's stupid but a quick fix in the trail would be chop the head of the bolt off and thread the remaining bolt thread, add some lock tight, tighten it up and go I mean the thread piece is still gonna be tight.. but it's just an opinion just something to thing about !!!
Your local fastenal should have those 1/2-20x2 Taps on the shelf....
Better yet, throw a piece of 1/2-20 thread rod and some nuts in your trail spares. You could cut out the old bolt as you did, thread in the new allthread from the front, loctite a jamb nut on the back if it makes you feel better, then reef a lugnut on the front.
I'm throwing a piece of that all thread in my bag with some nuts and a couple extra lugnuts. That's not a bad ideer.
Nearest Fastenal is about 2 hours away :( I live in the middle of nowhere.
@@bleepinjeep We have Fastenal down here like Waffle Houses and Starbucks....
I think I would have gone with a Tapered wheel bolt, like I have on my European car. I can't put a link here but if you Google this group of words, without the quotes you will probably find the same suppliers I did.
"Rockwell 60° Trailer Bolt (Each) 1/2"-20 Thread #007-040-00".
Wouldn't it have been easier to drill a large enough hole to get it out thus weaking the flange less. Just a thought
I broke one lug stud off my chevy k10 12bolt rear end, ignored it, broke a second off... ignored it, then a third broke off.... this is serious. I didn't want to replace the studs so I just replaced the whole axle with a 14bolt ff rear axle, upgrading from c-clip to non in the process.
Take them all out and put the wheel on with the bolts so they are easy to change in the trail or any time
Like some foreign cars are.
Vw
You could have saved a lot of time by leaving the axle in place. Cut the bolt as you did! insert a new longer bolt from the outside,
securing it on the back with a nut, cut the bolt in the right lenght, Now you are down to a 15 minute repair!
Drill the holes out for studs...
Tacoma Screw has whatever you need.
Sadly those are common for Moser, Currie, Dutchmen axles, they will also sell you bolts.
They are suggest not using an impact on screw in studs and it can work them loose over time.
I would of went with a 2.5 inch stud, red locktite with a nut n washer on the back and called it a day
@@twiz8789 problem with that is your hub-centric wheels are now lug-centric and that can introduce imbalance at high speeds. This may not be an issue on trail rigs, but certainly a problem when off-road racing or on the highway. This also puts all your load on the studs, making it far more likely to twist and bend them, sacrificing strength and increasing the probability of a catastrophic wheel relocation modification (seen it). High grade hardware reduces but does not eliminate this issue.
Ford 9" is the most expensive rear axle; after breaking things a lot.
Mc Master has them..
Shoulda got the 10" axle...
Why not just switch to European style lugs? If the axle flanges are tapped it seems it would be much easier to replace those than to look for the unobtanium tap bolts you had to source.
If your c clip axle has disc brakes it will keep the broken axle shaft in.
Love my 8.8.
david grant nah man it will not. Unless if you’re lucky. if you break the shaft or c-clip than most likely the caliper is going to break off too... happened to my old daily driver zj on 31s..
Instead of taking out that large chunk you could have just drilled a hole large enough to fit the socket would remain strong that way
Shit, 2 weeks is nothing. With the rain up here in the northeast US it is taking me 4 months to finish a brake and steering job cuz I have to work outside on a gravel "driveway", we did not have a summer only a rain season. But who the hell wants a custom axle anyway?
You need to beat it like it owes you money.
Why not just switch to lug bolts like a lot of German cars use?
moser engineering axles
Hate when that happens
Wow, that could have been one of the worst ways to build that axel. Glad you got it figured out.
My first thought was it was meant for studs with locktite and lugnuts, but the previous owner used bolts instead. Id cut the heads off so they spin out from the front. If one is concerned the red locktite won't hold (there would have to be bad threads or something for this stuff not to hold) the stud may back out, get them a little longer and put a nut on the back.
Huh? Why not just get a 2.5" fully threaded and cut the head off. Then you can thread it through from the outside and have a nut on the inside - ??????
the bolts go through wheel into hub and dont use lugnuts, its european way.
Since you had to buy 10 of the damn things, you might as well go around and replace all of them, at least on that side, and keep the rest for spares.
Get rid of those 40 year old disc brakes.. That is a disc setup from a 79 Lincoln Versailles.
yup, I know. Damn hard to get parts for, trust me.
It was hard 20 years ago when I had the same setup. I'm surprised you can find anything.
60
Just out of curiosity, did you consider transitioning to euro style lug studs?
Anthony Cook what are those!?
@@WaffleCopterCO Are you being serious or sarcastic? Not trying to be rude, so please don't take it as such.
Anthony Cook both
@@WaffleCopterCO BMW, Mercedes, and other manufacturers don't use a traditional lug stud that protrudes from the hub. They have threaded holes and the lugs are actually threaded bolts. Look up a lug nut for a mid 2000's bmw. You'll see what I mean.
clearance the other side and call it good
Way to get past crappy engineering 👍
I'm leaning towards the thing was meant for studs and red locktite with maybe a nut on the back and the dude before him used the bolts.At least that would have been my preferred fix. I feel even with the notch ground out of that is still way stronger than say a stock style retaining plate, which I feel is barely adequate.
Maybe the guy wanted to do it right .ha
Why not just drill a hole big enough to fit a socket?? I would of gone that route.
youd need to drill a 3/4" hole atleast and there just isnt enough room for that ntm id rather pull out my teeth then drill a 3/4" hole through that bracket with a hand drill at a screwy angle
easy way to do it is.. dont. the jeep would work completely fine with 4 studs, the studs certainly arent the weak point in the system 1/2" 20tpi grade 8 is 18,000lbs shear and 23,000lbs in tension and you still have 4 of them and alot of friction between the rim and hub to boot... id ride 4 all day even 3 if it were that much work just be sure the 3-4 good ones are torqued to spec after 100kms
Building bumpers and lifting your Jeep is cool but I like these kind of videos because it's the day to day nonsense people who work on their own vehicles run into.
That's why I'm running a Ford 8.8 out of a 1999 Explorer.They are a dime a dozen and in every junk yard in America....
8.8's and D44's. I run a Intersmashable Scout rear in my Heep and did a home-made disc swap using Chebby front caliper brackets and ran a narrow width D44 front from a 79 Waggy and put Ferd 1/2 ton rotor n hubs and Chebby calipers n caliper bracket. Also swapped the Waggy 360 it had. I'd rather have the 8.8 cuz they ready for disc and you can do a c-clip eliminator if one feels its gonna be a problem
Answer: Its a FORD lol
First
Don't da't jezt frost ya'lls gizzard!!!? Is there not a JEG'S er a SUMMIT RACING er at least a hot rod shop near by?? Or maybe you could get some STRANGE AXLE'S?!?! Anywho that would positively suck the John Homes if'n et did it on the trail, I tell ya what!!!😵
I live in the middle of nowhere...had to go internet to finally get what I needed. I was really surprised that one of the tractor supply places around here didn't have one though.
millennials cant even change a tire
Not to be rude but Tyler needs to get on Matt and the new guy with the TJs level. Where's project tetanus overland or whatever? I'm a huge supporter of the channel and have introduced many wheelers to the page but come on, everyone is curious about him.
Boring