NMS TDI Passat Heater core PT.2 (Installing an inline filter)
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- čas přidán 5. 02. 2022
- So about a month ago when I did my lasted NMS Passat heater core ( • NMS TDI Passat Heater ... ) I figured there has to be a better way to 1) flush the cooked coolant out 2) filter some of the junk out before replacing the heater core.
This video outlines my modified flushing procedure using a loop line inplace of the heater core with a small filter to prevent re-circulating any junk out. It didn't work quite as well as I hoped but maybe part 3 will work better.
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Great vid on how to clean and replace the heater core brother. cheers.
Excellent troubleshooting video, maybe just pull out heater core then install a loop hose and do multiple flushes to ensure new heater core isn't clogged with residual debris. I am getting ready to do mine after my timing belt replacement. Your video is super valuable - bravo!
Yeah the filter wasn’t quite as effective as I had hoped, multiple thorough flushes and possibly some rad cleaner should help. Some cars seem worse then others, I forget who’s I used in this video by my sisters was original at 250k whereas another one was on its 4th or 5th. Neither have been back since so hopefully it stays that way.
I'm also in Canada about to swap the core on my 2014 Passat TDI. Found on Amazon for $57. It's a made in China one so my hope is the passages on it aren't as tiny as the vw cores
I’d try to remove the old one carefully and compare to the new one, I’ve seen someone mention the cheaper ones the heater core pipe OD is larger then the feed tube ID so they don’t slip together.
@@JoshsJettas I might just have some heater hose handy and use that with some clamps if they won't want to plumb together. However, the user reviews seemed to be positive in terms of fit other than people that complained about the usual struggle that it is no matter what one you use
Josh did you ever end up removing the EGR Cooler on CKRA? Seems like needs more block off plates than the CJAA, but also information is hard to come by unless you have a motor sitting next to the car haha
I can’t say 100% as i don’t have a ckra here but I’m fairly certain the cooler is similar to the cjaa, requiring looping the coolant hoses and a block off at the turbo inlet, this video might send you in the right direction
czcams.com/video/f3bTbGSSA_k/video.html
@@JoshsJettas that's video got me through my first CJAA EGR Cooler Delete last week, thank you!
So far it would appear that the CKRA doesn't have the long pipe from up front to the turbo manifold like the CJAA. The block off plate goes on the front of the engine.
Just replaced my heater core, $16 bucks. Took about an hour, I’ll let it clog up and just replace . idparts is the way to go.
Its really hard to care about taking more stuff apart to clean all the crap out with how cheap and easy this heater core is. Im hoping to test some rad flushes to see if any will break it down so it can be flushed out on the next core change.
Would a delete of emissions and EGR with a tune take care of a lot of the coolant baking issues
I personally believe so, either that or switching to a HD coolant meant for larger diesels.
Are you using G13? Try G12++ instead after a good system flush. Choose reputable brand such as VW OEM, Pentosin or HEPU
I usually use Rowe, but on customer vehicles I’ve fleet guard and cool gard II meant for semis/off high way diesels
Great idea but that little filter setup is way too small to allow the pressure you need to push it all out .
You have reduced the ID down to much so it’s pressuring the inside of filter but not the core itself .
If anyone does a filter setup make sure it’s atleast the ID size of the heater core pipes . Great idea to help otherwise . Yes I know this is from a year ago but a lot of people are still watching this .
100% I agree with you there. At that time the core was $16 so you could throw a few cores to use it as a filter lol. But now they’re $75+ so I might revisit to a better set up. I’d like to try the power stroke coolant filter inline to be honest.
i would put the garden hose in the tank and let it run on the groung blockheater1 hose then turn around that way the motor get a good fulsh that how we did it years ago but we had rust i had a 2005 passet and it was doing the same thing somunch for there enginering that way u fulsh all the lines i just spent 1200 on a 2015 and still no heat yes im pisst
I’m hesitant to flush with straight water as you have to make sure you get it back to 50/50. Other issue is the amount of scale collecting in all the coolers, pretty well have to strip the engine and flush parts out individually. I’d like to try a few different flushing solvents and see if any will dissolve the scale.
Where is that *gunk coming from?
Theory is that the EGR is cooking the coolant. Breaks down into a goo and goes straight into the heater core. I replaced mine and still having issues with bleeding the air out of the system fully. Pretty sure I have a clogged oiler cooler too..
As said above egr cooler is overheating it after the car got the emissions “fix”. In the part 1 video I went over checking the coolant pH, Volkswagen’s tsb is saying excessive flux is causing the coolant to be acidic and causing corrosion. Both cars have crystals that look/feel like dried out coolant.
As far as getting all the air out, I’m a big fan of vacuum filling them.
I work on a lot of these. Egr coolers failing is one of the reasons as well as the additive in the coolant gets used up if the coolant does not have it regular 2 year flush interval. The only way ive had success in not having the heater core come back plugged is to remove all the hoses and radiator. Flush them out. If you can take the timing belt and water pump out and the oil filter housing then the block can mostly be flushed. Also a good amount settles in the trans cooler. Have fun.
Yeah this one had no coolant loss or soot in the coolant. It was pretty orange so I think it was old coolant or had been cooked. It’s amazing where that stuff finds it’s way and how caked on it gets
where did you purchase that air fitting/cap pressure cap for the overflow bottle?? I want to buy that so I can do the same type of pressurized bk fill/flush. I know you made a rig from plumbing but the threaded cap with the (gauge) on top looks commercial. Is it on FCPEuro or where?@@JoshsJettas
Do you think “hitting a pot hole” would be more of a permanent fix?
Depends on who you ask, some people say it’s from not washing the engines out during casting, others say it’s from the extra egr from the diesel gate fix. It felt like dried up coolant to be so I’m thinking if it falls off in a pothole that should reduce the heater core plugging. But you still have to get whatever has accumulated in the block out though.
I am so not looking forward to doing this. I just replaced the water pump and now I have heat on one side of the car and not the other. It's got to be a 30°f difference. Considering the cost of the schooling is not cheap, I may do a vinegar/water flush with both the radiator and the heater core using a external recirculating pump, then followed by a distilled water flush. Another problem with this system is the inability to actually completely drain the system flush your heater core independently without removing it, the same thing with your radiator as there is a midpoint hose instead of a low end on your radiator (which there is room for a low end)... You have to ask yourself WTF are engineers thinking sometimes. I do like your filter idea 100%. Nobody wants to do this fix twice because the manufacturer didn't use their brain once.
I think it’s crazy to not have a low spot drain on the rad, I can just imagine the accumulation that can be in there. Such a silly set up but I do like the loop being able to drain more out, does make a bit of a mess in the interior though.
@@JoshsJettas I'm just going to run plastic behind the tubes and tape it to the carpet then lay my shop vac down to suck up the 1L that spills from the tubes. I don't like the rigid tubes on the inside through the firewall either... They could have literally put a coupling with two-sided male ends that went through the firewall, then attached rubber hoses from that to the heater core that had a corresponding male Barb ends on the heater core. That would have stopped all of the POA in maintenance.
@@bsrcat1 that would work well, I just tried my best to catch it and steam cleaned it afterwards. Don’t get me started on those aluminum rigid lines, I don’t think I showed just how bad they were from people prying the old cores out of it.