FINALLY!!! A really real normal person making recurve bow videos. And in this video you used a Ben Pearson bow, I have a 1973 BP Pony 700-60". It's a youth bow o believe. I got it from the best nation in the world... DONATION!! I did actually try to up the strength and put on some silencers at same time, used spinnerbait skirts and tied them inside a knot on each end of my string to shorten and strengthen. Anyway, thank u buddy, you read my mind on us all being and shooting different. Keep on keeping on my friend.
I have not strung a bow in about 10 years. I had a series of eye operations and and was having depth perception problems. I am somewhat better and may try it again this year. I mainly hunted with my bow. It is a bear recurve I bought in the early 70's when I got back to the States. It had a crack in the riser coming down from the shelf, like somebody sat on it. I screwed it and glued it and went hunting. I soon had camo cloth on it and a Bear brush rest so I could shoot plastic fletching. The most noise coming from a recurve is the feathers. You can stand around the corner of a house and have someone shoot past you. You will not believe the noise. It took me quite a while to realize the deer were not "Jumping the string", but heard the arrow coming. Next, I put sticky backed felt on the tips where the string slapped it. I tried puff balls but they were getting caught on everything and soaked up water. Nock point I kept a little high. I believe the arrow picks up off the rest when you release anyway. I used to collect bows and had over 300 when I retired and downsized, but I still took the old screwed and glued bear out for deer.
Hi Greg I have been making my own fibreglass laminated recurve and longbows for 5 years and so have no manufacturerers recommendations for any settings so must experiment on my own. I find your videos endlessly fascinating. I have watched countless videos on tuning and shooting and by far yours are the best. I watched your videos on gap shooting and my groups have shrunk remarkably. Your video on the archers paradox and arrow spine is the best out there. Would love to be able to shoot left and right. Maybe that would be my next goal. Keep up the good work. Joe
Total thumbs UP! FOR being honest, and cool and generous. Good related to subject content. Always to the point no Nonsense and yet fun and entertaining. As well. Thanks.
Craig,really enjoy your video's and your sense of humor.just getting back into traditional archery,so you've been a big help .I never had any info on shooting a recurve and didn't know anybody who knew anything about it.way easier than I imagined.have a good one.
Very good video I picked up a recurve last year started with a 35 pound and then just got me a 50 pound snow monster I like the videos you put out they have helped allot
Greetings from Belgium. I liked your info on bowtuning. The difference in brace-hight you measured between the tapemeasure and bowsqaure is because the bowsqaure zero-point is in the center brackets that hold the string into pleace. if you measure from the ruler you will measure an incorrect value. A simple way to ckeck this is putting you tape-measure on the bowsqaure and level for example the 5" on both devices.
I'm getting back into archery after many years. Really enjoyed your videos. Simple and concise. One question. I bought a Samick Sage 45lb limbs. It comes with the string already nocked. Does that affect the nock if you change the brace height. Gordon.
You have to stretch a carpenters tape measure from the metal piece at the tip cause they usually move (not sure if yours does). I would say the bow square is more accurate in this case.
Haven't looked at comments, but a bow square's brace measurement starts at the string "clip" not the flat, "t" part of the square where you first measured brace from.
Hey Greg! Love your videos, why your brace height wasn’t the same you had the bow square upside down, you’ll notice there’s two clips on it for the string 👌
The ruler has the metal holder on the end that most are 1/4 slacky when i use to hang sheet rock we cut 1/4 shy if the ruler was pulled and 1/4 over if it was pushing against it
That bit on the end of a measuring tape is supposed to move, so if you're pulling, you measure from the outside, and if you're pushing against the end of it, you measure from the outside, and it should be accurate for both. Instead of being off by the thickness of that part. I used to know somebody who regularly had theirs calibrated for phone company work.
The 16 th. He sees between the tape measure and the Carbon express bow square is the bow square has two string positions. First string click is for string nock positions the second which is hard up against the square two clicks is for brace height and leveling arrow rest if you are not shooting off the shelf. Thought I'd metion that love the Carbon express bow square work's really good with td. Bows
You should start bow tuning about arrow/bow/tab-tuning. Nice info like this. But i tune all in ones. Because you need good arrow flite before you need to have any issues with sound. I tune "right" arrow that it hit spot by bracehight. And if you change anything it will see on hit and points that you get. #nicetoningfolks😉
I hate them. They're slowx heavy and usually larger diameter so less penetration on target. Sure they may not break when being fired but they bend like butter and only last a few shots before developing a curve. I buy cheap carbon arrows and cut the vanes off and refletch them with feathers.
Thanks for your very informative videos! In this vid you were talking about height of the string and how it effects on hand shock. I'm strugling with this subject with my longbow and find out, that looser the string is more hand shock it will give. Am I right with this? Would also like to know what are the other ways to reduce hand shock? Find out that using heavier arrow is the most efective way of reducing hand shock, but wouldn't like to go that way, cause it effects so much on the flight path of the arrow and makes arrow drop sooner. I'm a beginner with archery and I'm shooting with 33#@28" bow. Using Fast flight string with 7.5" height. Also tested a home made string with which I found out I need 8" string height to shoot comfortable. It is half inch more than manufactures recommendation. Do you think this could harm the bow etc? Sorry for my poor English. Keep on doing these great videos and I will be following them!
Thanks for watching and welcome to Archery. Hand Shock can be caused by multiple things. I do not know about the looser V tighter string, never thought of that. So it could very well be true, I just do not know. If You tried the brace height changes with no effect, then you can also try adjusting the nocking point and or , adding puffy string silencers. The puffy silencers will absorb some of the vibration (energy). The only reason a heavier arrow could help is because it absorbs some of the energy (shock). I would try those two before thinking of going to a heavier arrow. Hope this helps.
Archery 101 Thanks for your answer! Not sure if the change of the brace height (adding it by making string tighter), effected reducing the vibration, based my opinnion on my feeling only. Would be interesting to messure it somehow... Yes, have already added some silencers and seems like the one made of rubber strings especially "shuts down" the vibration quite well. Didn't know that nock point also affects on vibration. So many variabilities in this art of archery!
Eight, Niner... Ten. "Marines lingo all day long.". 21 years in Marine field Artillery I hear the "Niner" and know no there is some military madness in your method.... Get some! SSgt. Calhoun U.S.M.C. (ret) Out....
If you intend to take to string off the bow but maintain your tune (stretching & shooting in spares for example) then you use a string keeper (www.merlinarchery.co.uk/string-flex-twist-string-keeper-pack-of-6.html) or loop it through itself so it doesn't untwist. If you're unstringing it but leaving the string on the a bowstring keeper (www.merlinarchery.co.uk/neet-string-keeper.html) is what you're after. If you do take it off & it untwists then yes you will have to retwist it when you use it next.
I recently took up Traditional and purchased a #45 longbow. I so shoot #55 compound with pin sights. This is my problem. On the compound bow I never worried about where the arrow was pointing, I relied on my pin sights (which are actually above the arrow line of sight). Now with longbow when I try to shoot instinctive (which is what I want) my brain wants to know what reference point do I use so arrow goes on target? I have no trouble staying focused on target but my brain wants to know do I raise or longer, do I sight down the arrow or do I just shoot so many arrows I just learn the average "visual GAP" (not measured) up or down to allow for distance? Or am i just totally lost?...lol
+Barkbastage Use what they call "Split Vision". Your primary focus will be on where you want the arrow to impact. In your peripheral vision you will see the arrow. This might calm your mind down and allow it to work in a manner similar to the compound. You have just learned the tough lesson of conditioning, your mind has been trained to work one way and is reluctant to do it different. It will take time to "re-train" your mind so just be patient. Good Luck!
You look very familiar! Sure i have run into you in mil or maybe Scouts. Great video series. CW4 Karl Schulte, US Army, SC, ORD,(ret) MAJ CAP MO NG, Wisc NG, NGB, Pentagon, Ft Gordon, Hohenfels, Turkey, etc.
I'm an adult female looking to start getting into archery. I've decided to start with a takedown recurve bow with room to grow, but haven't bought one yet. I'd kind of like to know the basics before I start shooting. I just have one question about this video... I'm not sure I understood what the twisting of the bow string does with the brace height. (Visual learner as well) Did it add more space between the string and the riser? I think that's what I gathered from your explanation. Sorry if it's a stupid question, but I want to understand beforehand, so I'm not discouraged when I can't figure out why I can't shoot right.
Twisting the string will make the string shorter, a shorter string means a higher brace height, which means more space between the string and the riser.
As the person shooting, around 20. If you are standing behind and watching at least 15. Boils down to time, you really do not have enough time at 10 yards or ven 15.
Here's a question: I have a bad rotator cuff in my right shoulder, which restricted me from the sport for 16 years until I could rehabilitate it back. I used to shoot ambidextrously up to 65-70# with recurves, but I'm currently able to only draw my compound bows(only bows I have left) with my right hand at 60#(which isn't bad considering I went from 70# down to a paltry 15#). I'm looking to start getting back to drawing with my left hand, and I've already demonstrated I can draw 40# easily left-handed, but I did this for a set of 5 arrows before I stopped due to a fairly reasonable fear of damaging my shoulder if I continued cold-turkey. I was not over-bowed. My right shoulder has an instability problem, so what should I watch for when I draw left-handed repeatedly that would be a warning sign that I have reached my limit? Soreness is something I'm used to from general daily stuff, so that isn't much of a good indicator. Any thoughts?
Why do you want a heavy bow? Shoot a light weight one (30 pounds or so) till you get it down. From what you wrote, it seems you have an issue with how you draw. Are you drawing with your arm?
Archery 101 I asked what the warning signs that your bow arm is going to fail, not to be insulted by elitism and the assumption that I do not know how to draw a bow properly. I bite my thumb at you, sir.
Never said you didn't know how to shoot a bow, I asked why so heavy. I know too many archers who have injured their shoulders from using too heavy a bow. Elitist, yep that is me. If you were offended, it was not my intent.
3D Archery I used a 40# bow to demonstrate that I could still draw with my left arm because that was the lowest weight available at the shop. Drawing is no problem for me, I hold strictly to back-tension methods of drawing, specifically the Native American 'Draw to your heart' practice that I was taught to gain the most leverage with the least strain. Drawing isn't the problem, though. I was able to anchor and release easily with a hold virtually as stable as elemental tungsten. What concerns me is the instability of my right shoulder with supporting the bow against the string, instead of the other way around. I usually draw right handed because left-handed bows are difficult to come by(I'm right-handed naturally, but I enjoy shooting left-handed as well.). I'm worried about what the warning signs would be that the strain, even from as low as 20 pounds, is threatening to disrupt my right shoulder, which suffered a torn rotator cuff several years ago. The injury to my shoulder was from a completely unrelated sport.
Never heard of the "Draw to the heart" method, so i cannot comment on if it helps, hurts, good, bad, fair, etc. In Olympic archery they have the concept of being at "Brace", This is where your skeletal structure is doing the work and not the muscles. You can hold for long periods with no strain on the shoulder. If you do this I would not be worried about the shoulder, for there will be no strain on it. As for finding left handed bows, there are a bunch out there, you just have to look. I buy mine off ebay (I shoot left and right handed too).
Hallo, I have a guestion about my Tradtech Titan 3 riser. I am shooting splitfinger and I am planning to shoot three fingers under. When trying, the arrows dived immediately. Do I have to raise or lower the nockheight? And changes to the tiller? Regards Jan
Archery 101 I thought you should have a little positive tiller on a takedown recurve when you shoot split finger as opposed to 3 under. Somewhere between 1/8 and 3/8 or something like that.
Yan, Yes you should. But you do not have to. The tiller is something only a really good shot should worry about. Many bows come with a neutral tiller which is perfectly fine for most situations. Tiller comes into play when target shooting. You know trying to hit something really small. That tiller can affect where the arrows hits/ That is why ILF is so popular, you can adjust it.
I'm shooting bamboo arrows 600 to 700 grain 125 tips FOC 11%.My nock goes high right after it leaves the bow.What you think?Watch one of my videos maybe and see.Would love for them to do better.
PVC bows could be the culprit. They have a tendency to spring back unevenly. I would also check your nock point. If the arrow is going where you want it, then I would not worry about it too much.
Right at 10:00 you start talking about the knock height . Exactly what will that arrow do if the knock is to high or to low and how do you know which direction to move it . Do you have a video showing every thing the arrow does at different knocks and which way to adjust it to make it right . In this video you just skipped right over it .
It will porpoise. How do you know which why to move it? Easy, move it and see what happens. Doing it is the best way to learn. No I do not have a video that shows everything, does anyone?
I didn't mean a video that shows everything I meant just what happens to the arrow at different knocking points . I can see my arrow is doing something but I'm not sure what its doing . What is the best distance from the target is best to see how the arrow hits the target ? lets say at 20 yards the arrow is hitting the target at a downward angle but at 10 yards it looks like its angling upwards which way do you move it ? Will you make a video on knock heights and how it effects the arrow flight and what to do to correct it ?
steve dental..Hi,As he explained..'If the nocking point is too high OR too low..the arrow will..'porpoise'..travel like a dolpin swims..,,He suggests to not make a nocking point on the string until the arrows flys straight.I suggest you get someone behind you while shooting,as they might see the travel of arrow .."20 yards is a sensible distance to tune ones bow though..You are right about that..Hope you don't mind be saying this..hope it helps a little..B/W
Your using the tape wrong lol. That 1/16 is built in the tape. Most people don’t know but the instructions is on each tape and you use the the whole tape yes the back side of the tape.
As long as you use it the same way each time you are fine. Now, if you want to split hairs about the correct or incorrect way to use a tape measure, I think there are better things to waste your time on
Joe Skaggs So let me get this straight, you call me obnoxious and yet you have a channel with zero content, which means the only reason you have one is to make comments like this? Oooooookay, well thanks for watching!
Hi Greg I have been making my own fibreglass laminated recurve and longbows for 5 years and so have no manufacturerers recommendations for any settings so must experiment on my own. I find your videos endlessly fascinating. I have watched countless videos on tuning and shooting and by far yours are the best. I watched your videos on gap shooting and my groups have shrunk remarkably. Your video on the archers paradox and arrow spine is the best out there. Would love to be able to shoot left and right. Maybe that would be my next goal. Keep up the good work. Joe
FINALLY!!! A really real normal person making recurve bow videos. And in this video you used a Ben Pearson bow, I have a 1973 BP Pony 700-60". It's a youth bow o believe. I got it from the best nation in the world... DONATION!! I did actually try to up the strength and put on some silencers at same time, used spinnerbait skirts and tied them inside a knot on each end of my string to shorten and strengthen. Anyway, thank u buddy, you read my mind on us all being and shooting different. Keep on keeping on my friend.
I have not strung a bow in about 10 years. I had a series of eye operations and and was having depth perception problems. I am somewhat better and may try it again this year. I mainly hunted with my bow. It is a bear recurve I bought in the early 70's when I got back to the States. It had a crack in the riser coming down from the shelf, like somebody sat on it. I screwed it and glued it and went hunting. I soon had camo cloth on it and a Bear brush rest so I could shoot plastic fletching. The most noise coming from a recurve is the feathers. You can stand around the corner of a house and have someone shoot past you. You will not believe the noise. It took me quite a while to realize the deer were not "Jumping the string", but heard the arrow coming. Next, I put sticky backed felt on the tips where the string slapped it. I tried puff balls but they were getting caught on everything and soaked up water. Nock point I kept a little high. I believe the arrow picks up off the rest when you release anyway. I used to collect bows and had over 300 when I retired and downsized, but I still took the old screwed and glued bear out for deer.
Hi Greg
I have been making my own fibreglass laminated recurve and longbows for 5 years and so have no manufacturerers recommendations for any settings so must experiment on my own.
I find your videos endlessly fascinating. I have watched countless videos on tuning and shooting and by far yours are the best.
I watched your videos on gap shooting and my groups have shrunk remarkably.
Your video on the archers paradox and arrow spine is the best out there.
Would love to be able to shoot left and right. Maybe that would be my next goal.
Keep up the good work.
Joe
thanks Greg you make everything clear and uncomplicated ...you are now my go-to source for everything Trad Archery related.
Thank you for the kind words. It is appreciated.
Total thumbs UP! FOR being honest, and cool and generous.
Good related to subject content. Always to the point no Nonsense and yet fun and entertaining. As well. Thanks.
Craig,really enjoy your video's and your sense of humor.just getting back into traditional archery,so you've been a big help .I never had any info on shooting a recurve and didn't know anybody who knew anything about it.way easier than I imagined.have a good one.
Very good video I picked up a recurve last year started with a 35 pound and then just got me a 50 pound snow monster I like the videos you put out they have helped allot
you are a solid instructor. I am trying trad for the first time, moving from compound and your videos are the best, thanks.
excellent & very informative
Love your videos! Keep them coming! Going to tune my bow now...
Excellent videos. Thank you for your work.
Thanks for the video. What I love the best about it is the title!
Greg, From an old archer new to "Trad", Thanks for insight and advice. Great Videos!
This was your 2nd video I watched and have now subscribed . I find your explanations very easy to understand thanx for that.
Great video, thank you for sharing it!!!
Thanks for wonderful instructions
Great channel.... thanks for sharing 👍🏻
Great video and great last words "what is right for you!" Ciao Brother
Greetings from Belgium. I liked your info on bowtuning. The difference in brace-hight you measured between the tapemeasure and bowsqaure is because the bowsqaure zero-point is in the center brackets that hold the string into pleace. if you measure from the ruler you will measure an incorrect value. A simple way to ckeck this is putting you tape-measure on the bowsqaure and level for example the 5" on both devices.
Thanks for posting.
thanks Gray keep up the good work
I'm going to tune my Black Hunter longbow as soon as I get it from China. Great video. Thanks
Watching in 2023. Thanks Greg
Gregg good solid information man keep it coming thanks
fantastic video
Greg great video
I love your K.I.S.S. method Greg 🏹
Thanks Greg, I had a large Buck jump the string and it broke my heart, can't wait to try your suggestion.
How far was he? And did you shoot over his back? I have it drilled in my head to shoot low
Great tip ❤️
Great vid. Good content
Great information
Great video! Thx!
thanks very helpful
Good stuff 🙂thanks
Good info, thanks
You got a thumbs up from me.
Keep em coming,,, soon I'll know as much as you LOL
Nice and simple
I'm getting back into archery after many years. Really enjoyed your videos. Simple and concise.
One question. I bought a Samick Sage 45lb limbs. It comes with the string already nocked. Does that affect the nock if you change the brace height. Gordon.
+Food For Thought
Yes it does. That will need to be adjusted. Sorry.
thank you I really value your opinions and I am going to try gap shooting
Thank you for the kind words. Like anything else, it will take some getting use to.
Thank you
You have to stretch a carpenters tape measure from the metal piece at the tip cause they usually move (not sure if yours does). I would say the bow square is more accurate in this case.
Haven't looked at comments, but a bow square's brace measurement starts at the string "clip" not the flat, "t" part of the square where you first measured brace from.
Thanx ser 🇰🇼
Good help
Hey Greg! Love your videos, why your brace height wasn’t the same you had the bow square upside down, you’ll notice there’s two clips on it for the string 👌
Thanks for this. I'm wondering if adding the minimal weight of an attached hunting bow quiver will make enough difference in the tuning to matter.
Great question, never used one so I cannot answer that. Might be something I can test down the road.
The ruler has the metal holder on the end that most are 1/4 slacky when i use to hang sheet rock we cut 1/4 shy if the ruler was pulled and 1/4 over if it was pushing against it
The T square is solid so it right
That bit on the end of a measuring tape is supposed to move, so if you're pulling, you measure from the outside, and if you're pushing against the end of it, you measure from the outside, and it should be accurate for both. Instead of being off by the thickness of that part. I used to know somebody who regularly had theirs calibrated for phone company work.
The 16 th. He sees between the tape measure and the Carbon express bow square is the bow square has two string positions. First string click is for string nock positions the second which is hard up against the square two clicks is for brace height and leveling arrow rest if you are not shooting off the shelf. Thought I'd metion that love the Carbon express bow square work's really good with td. Bows
ty man
You should start bow tuning about arrow/bow/tab-tuning. Nice info like this. But i tune all in ones. Because you need good arrow flite before you need to have any issues with sound. I tune "right" arrow that it hit spot by bracehight. And if you change anything it will see on hit and points that you get. #nicetoningfolks😉
Would love to hear your thoughts on using aluminum arrows. I like them. No fear of breaking during shot.
Unfortunately, I have not used them much, not enough to form an opinion on them. Might be a video for down the road.
I hate them. They're slowx heavy and usually larger diameter so less penetration on target. Sure they may not break when being fired but they bend like butter and only last a few shots before developing a curve. I buy cheap carbon arrows and cut the vanes off and refletch them with feathers.
Aluminium arrows bend. Carbon arrows do not. I haven't really encountered any downsides of carbon arrows.
nice
Thanks for your very informative videos!
In this vid you were talking about height of the string and how it effects on hand shock. I'm strugling with this subject with my longbow and find out, that looser the string is more hand shock it will give. Am I right with this?
Would also like to know what are the other ways to reduce hand shock? Find out that using heavier arrow is the most efective way of reducing hand shock, but wouldn't like to go that way, cause it effects so much on the flight path of the arrow and makes arrow drop sooner. I'm a beginner with archery and I'm shooting with 33#@28" bow. Using Fast flight string with 7.5" height. Also tested a home made string with which I found out I need 8" string height to shoot comfortable. It is half inch more than manufactures recommendation. Do you think this could harm the bow etc?
Sorry for my poor English. Keep on doing these great videos and I will be following them!
Thanks for watching and welcome to Archery. Hand Shock can be caused by multiple things. I do not know about the looser V tighter string, never thought of that. So it could very well be true, I just do not know.
If You tried the brace height changes with no effect, then you can also try adjusting the nocking point and or , adding puffy string silencers. The puffy silencers will absorb some of the vibration (energy).
The only reason a heavier arrow could help is because it absorbs some of the energy (shock). I would try those two before thinking of going to a heavier arrow. Hope this helps.
Archery 101 Thanks for your answer! Not sure if the change of the brace height (adding it by making string tighter), effected reducing the vibration, based my opinnion on my feeling only. Would be interesting to messure it somehow...
Yes, have already added some silencers and seems like the one made of rubber strings especially "shuts down" the vibration quite well.
Didn't know that nock point also affects on vibration. So many variabilities in this art of archery!
Eight, Niner... Ten. "Marines lingo all day long.". 21 years in Marine field Artillery I hear the "Niner" and know no there is some military madness in your method....
Get some! SSgt. Calhoun U.S.M.C. (ret) Out....
@H A R at ease shitbird
Great vid. How do you keep the string the same size after you make the adjustments. Do you have to twist it every time you take it off and back on?
Once the string is stretched, you don't have to play with it much, just check and adjust from time to time.
If you intend to take to string off the bow but maintain your tune (stretching & shooting in spares for example) then you use a string keeper (www.merlinarchery.co.uk/string-flex-twist-string-keeper-pack-of-6.html) or loop it through itself so it doesn't untwist. If you're unstringing it but leaving the string on the a bowstring keeper (www.merlinarchery.co.uk/neet-string-keeper.html) is what you're after. If you do take it off & it untwists then yes you will have to retwist it when you use it next.
i have a bow that is a longbow with a touch of a recurve built in on the bracehight it says 16 inches
do you happen to know if a samick sage is rated for a fast flight string or if I should use dicron ?
Yes it is!
I recently took up Traditional and purchased a #45 longbow. I so shoot #55 compound with pin sights.
This is my problem. On the compound bow I never worried about where the arrow was pointing, I relied on my pin sights (which are actually above the arrow line of sight). Now with longbow when I try to shoot instinctive (which is what I want) my brain wants to know what reference point do I use so arrow goes on target? I have no trouble staying focused on target but my brain wants to know do I raise or longer, do I sight down the arrow or do I just shoot so many arrows I just learn the average "visual GAP" (not measured) up or down to allow for distance?
Or am i just totally lost?...lol
+Barkbastage
Use what they call "Split Vision". Your primary focus will be on where you want the arrow to impact. In your peripheral vision you will see the arrow. This might calm your mind down and allow it to work in a manner similar to the compound. You have just learned the tough lesson of conditioning, your mind has been trained to work one way and is reluctant to do it different. It will take time to "re-train" your mind so just be patient. Good Luck!
Do you have an video on setting a support for veined arrows?
Do you mean a rest?
HI, great Video! Can you maybe make a video about target panic?
Check out Joel Turner and ShotIQ, no one better out there on that subject
You look very familiar! Sure i have run into you in mil or maybe Scouts. Great video series. CW4 Karl Schulte, US Army, SC, ORD,(ret)
MAJ CAP MO NG, Wisc NG, NGB, Pentagon, Ft Gordon, Hohenfels, Turkey, etc.
I'm lousy with names, so i can't say. Sorry.
I'm an adult female looking to start getting into archery. I've decided to start with a takedown recurve bow with room to grow, but haven't bought one yet. I'd kind of like to know the basics before I start shooting. I just have one question about this video... I'm not sure I understood what the twisting of the bow string does with the brace height. (Visual learner as well) Did it add more space between the string and the riser? I think that's what I gathered from your explanation. Sorry if it's a stupid question, but I want to understand beforehand, so I'm not discouraged when I can't figure out why I can't shoot right.
Twisting the string will make the string shorter, a shorter string means a higher brace height, which means more space between the string and the riser.
Thanks!!
At what distance do you shoot to see the porpoising?
As the person shooting, around 20. If you are standing behind and watching at least 15. Boils down to time, you really do not have enough time at 10 yards or ven 15.
Does having high brace height make the arrow act weaker Vs low brace height ?
Most bows only have a 1 to 1.5" brace height difference, that is not enough to affect the spine
Here's a question: I have a bad rotator cuff in my right shoulder, which restricted me from the sport for 16 years until I could rehabilitate it back. I used to shoot ambidextrously up to 65-70# with recurves, but I'm currently able to only draw my compound bows(only bows I have left) with my right hand at 60#(which isn't bad considering I went from 70# down to a paltry 15#). I'm looking to start getting back to drawing with my left hand, and I've already demonstrated I can draw 40# easily left-handed, but I did this for a set of 5 arrows before I stopped due to a fairly reasonable fear of damaging my shoulder if I continued cold-turkey. I was not over-bowed. My right shoulder has an instability problem, so what should I watch for when I draw left-handed repeatedly that would be a warning sign that I have reached my limit? Soreness is something I'm used to from general daily stuff, so that isn't much of a good indicator. Any thoughts?
Why do you want a heavy bow? Shoot a light weight one (30 pounds or so) till you get it down. From what you wrote, it seems you have an issue with how you draw. Are you drawing with your arm?
Archery 101
I asked what the warning signs that your bow arm is going to fail, not to be insulted by elitism and the assumption that I do not know how to draw a bow properly. I bite my thumb at you, sir.
Never said you didn't know how to shoot a bow, I asked why so heavy. I know too many archers who have injured their shoulders from using too heavy a bow. Elitist, yep that is me. If you were offended, it was not my intent.
3D Archery
I used a 40# bow to demonstrate that I could still draw with my left arm because that was the lowest weight available at the shop. Drawing is no problem for me, I hold strictly to back-tension methods of drawing, specifically the Native American 'Draw to your heart' practice that I was taught to gain the most leverage with the least strain. Drawing isn't the problem, though. I was able to anchor and release easily with a hold virtually as stable as elemental tungsten. What concerns me is the instability of my right shoulder with supporting the bow against the string, instead of the other way around. I usually draw right handed because left-handed bows are difficult to come by(I'm right-handed naturally, but I enjoy shooting left-handed as well.). I'm worried about what the warning signs would be that the strain, even from as low as 20 pounds, is threatening to disrupt my right shoulder, which suffered a torn rotator cuff several years ago.
The injury to my shoulder was from a completely unrelated sport.
Never heard of the "Draw to the heart" method, so i cannot comment on if it helps, hurts, good, bad, fair, etc.
In Olympic archery they have the concept of being at "Brace", This is where your skeletal structure is doing the work and not the muscles. You can hold for long periods with no strain on the shoulder. If you do this I would not be worried about the shoulder, for there will be no strain on it.
As for finding left handed bows, there are a bunch out there, you just have to look. I buy mine off ebay (I shoot left and right handed too).
Hallo, I have a guestion about my Tradtech Titan 3 riser. I am shooting splitfinger and I am planning to shoot three fingers under. When trying, the arrows dived immediately. Do I have to raise or lower the nockheight? And changes to the tiller?
Regards Jan
I would move the nock first. No need to change the tiller at this point.
Archery 101 I thought you should have a little positive tiller on a takedown recurve when you shoot split finger as opposed to 3 under. Somewhere between 1/8 and 3/8 or something like that.
Yan,
Yes you should. But you do not have to. The tiller is something only a really good shot should worry about. Many bows come with a neutral tiller which is perfectly fine for most situations. Tiller comes into play when target shooting. You know trying to hit something really small. That tiller can affect where the arrows hits/ That is why ILF is so popular, you can adjust it.
You have to setup the shelf before you decide on your nocking point.
Hi. I wounder if you would be happy to show us a video on how to String shooting?
I do not have a bow that can do that. So, for now it is on hold.
+Archery 101 Okay 😀
I'm shooting bamboo arrows 600 to 700 grain 125 tips FOC 11%.My nock goes high right after it leaves the bow.What you think?Watch one of my videos maybe and see.Would love for them to do better.
PVC bows could be the culprit. They have a tendency to spring back unevenly. I would also check your nock point. If the arrow is going where you want it, then I would not worry about it too much.
Thanks
Great common sense K.I.S.S. Vid! 😃
Shot trad all my life
What is shoten, I have shot alot of bows in the past , I'm 63 and never shoten not that I remember
Right at 10:00 you start talking about the knock height . Exactly what will that arrow do if the knock is to high or to low and how do you know which direction to move it . Do you have a video showing every thing the arrow does at different knocks and which way to adjust it to make it right . In this video you just skipped right over it .
It will porpoise. How do you know which why to move it? Easy, move it and see what happens. Doing it is the best way to learn. No I do not have a video that shows everything, does anyone?
I didn't mean a video that shows everything I meant just what happens to the arrow at different knocking points . I can see my arrow is doing something but I'm not sure what its doing . What is the best distance from the target is best to see how the arrow hits the target ? lets say at 20 yards the arrow is hitting the target at a downward angle but at 10 yards it looks like its angling upwards which way do you move it ? Will you make a video on knock heights and how it effects the arrow flight and what to do to correct it ?
steve dental..Hi,As he explained..'If the nocking point is too high OR too low..the arrow will..'porpoise'..travel like a dolpin swims..,,He suggests to not make a nocking point on the string until the arrows flys straight.I suggest you get someone behind you while shooting,as they might see the travel of arrow .."20 yards is a sensible distance to tune ones bow though..You are right about that..Hope you don't mind be saying this..hope it helps a little..B/W
How can I shoot with you?
I live in NY, if you are near me let me know.
Archery 101 I live in SE Ohio a bit far.🤷♂️
@@paulmullins4676
Not this year, maybe next year I will be back at ETAR.
Your using the tape wrong lol.
That 1/16 is built in the tape.
Most people don’t know but the instructions is on each tape and
you use the the whole tape yes the
back side of the tape.
As long as you use it the same way each time you are fine. Now, if you want to split hairs about the correct or incorrect way to use a tape measure, I think there are better things to waste your time on
Obnoxious.
Joe Skaggs
So let me get this straight, you call me obnoxious and yet you have a channel with zero content, which means the only reason you have one is to make comments like this?
Oooooookay, well thanks for watching!
What's obnoxious about this? Wtf?
Hi Greg
I have been making my own fibreglass laminated recurve and longbows for 5 years and so have no manufacturerers recommendations for any settings so must experiment on my own.
I find your videos endlessly fascinating. I have watched countless videos on tuning and shooting and by far yours are the best.
I watched your videos on gap shooting and my groups have shrunk remarkably.
Your video on the archers paradox and arrow spine is the best out there.
Would love to be able to shoot left and right. Maybe that would be my next goal.
Keep up the good work.
Joe