Alba Racing Timing Chain Tensioner Install on Polaris RZR 1000
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- čas přidán 6. 01. 2016
- After having timing chain tensioner issues with the OEM tensioner, I decided to try the Alba Racing Timing Chain Tensioner for the Polaris RZR 1000 and couldn't be happier. No noise at startup, quieter operation when warm!. Easy to install and great piece of mind.
Please consider using the link below if you would like to purchase this tensioner. I will get a very small commission from it and hopefully be able to add some more stuff to the RZR. Thanks!
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Get the pages from the Factory Service Manual Here:
drive.google.com/file/d/0B6Wa...
Buy from Ebay rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-532... - Sport
Alba needs to link their pathetic install sheet to this vid!!!! Now I actually know how the thing works and what to do if I mess up and release it
Thanks Robert for making it as simple as it should be!
Loved your video. We have the RZR XP 1000 and Wildcat X ATV's and we love them, they are tough and hold up excellently on our tours.
I bought a new 2018 RZR 1000 XP about 6 months ago. Its got 700 miles on it now and I've been hearing a knocking noise on cold start and every now and then when it running. Will be doing the Alba tensioner upgrade when I go to replaced the valve seals (yes they are leaking, video on my channel of my practically new machine smoking, also you can hear the knocking). Thanks for the video!!!
Its only 14-16...
Excellent video and a great public service you have done for the sxs community. Thank you and I'm now subbed!!!
After doing this myself I don't think there was anything wrong with your tensioner. If you add oil pressure to the tensioner inlet port it won't retract. I believe the check valve you refer to is further down in the oil system, possibly in the filter. A check valve in the system would prevent pressure loss and dry starts, and also prevent the tensioner from retracting. It's only when you break the seal by removing the tensioner that it loses pressure and becomes able to retract. That's also probably where the small amount of oil that spills out comes from. It's oil that was pressurized and caught in the lines and tensioner leaking out when you break the seal.
For what it's worth, there was nothing wrong with mine and it was the same way when I pulled it. But if you add some air pressure to bench test it you'll see that it doesn't retract.
Good video though. It was very helpful. Thank you.
Mine just started today I have ordered alba tensioner I will keep you updated! Thank you for install video.
FreezLe Rogers your welcome! You won't regret it.
I see a lot of videos of guys not pulling spark plugs out? What are the pros and cons of that do you know?
With the plugs in you'll fight cylinder compression while turning it over. I was surprised how much resistance the valve springs on the cam made in certain parts of the rotation. Even that made it difficult to keep it lined up on TDC. I can't see any reason why I would opt to leave them in and fight it.
Okay I'll pull them also, did you go a little past TDC to make them sit relaxed and not worrying about it spinning back on you?
good video..my RZR 1000 year 2015 coming the rattle noise in start up.I think buy the automatic tensioner by Alba. thank you for video installation !
Breaking Benjamin in the background, haven't heard that song in a while. Can't believe a 450f chain tensioner is an upgrade for a 1000cc twin.
Thanks for posting this upgrade I will be doing mine soon
nice video
Great video thanks. Sounds like you listen to avenged sevenfold radio on pandora also! Thanks for posting
Hey i have this same type noise on my 900XP since new. doesnt quite knock as loud. had dealer change tentioner under warranty ans same noise. did your noise go away when it came up to temperature??
Thanks for posting the video! 👍
I literally just pulled the factory crap out and put the new one in. Didn’t pull the cover or check anything.. worked fine maybe I got lucky ?
So, in a prior video, after the cam sprockets were aligned, you were having difficulty with the chain jumping after turning the engine. You believed this was due to a bad chain tensioner or a malfunctioning one. Did this new Chain Tensioner actually solve that issue? I didn't see the video where you were actually aligning the sprockets @ TDC with this new chain tensioner. Also you made mention that you rotated the engine just past TDC in order to remove slack in the timing chain in order to get the sprockets on. Can you please elaborate on this? I would worry that if you rotate past TDC, how will you get your cam sprockets to all align I-I E-E and put that plate on the PTO side that holds the cam shafts true when they are in alignment?
LINKIN.. BLEED IT OUT...!!!!!!!!!!! 10 pts!!!! Polaris mod and a worth while one... Your Boss!!!!
Hey thanks for posting. Im assuming you just followed the directions that came with it, stating to remove the valve cover and find top dead center, but now that you have completed the job, do you really think this was necessary?
I have seen people not do it and they are alright. The only worry I have is that depending on where the engine stops, compression can keep those cams loaded and if they jump with the tensioner out, you'll have to redo the timing. Your call.
Just bought a brand new 2017 xp 1000 4 non turbo, is this something I need to replace ASAP?
That's a good question. I know the turbo motors went to a manual tensioner design, but I'm not sure if they did on the base 1000. If you have the manual tensioner, you will be fine. Just be sure to adjust it periodically. I probably wouldn't worry about replacing an OEM hydraulic unit until you heard the rattling after the engine has been running a few seconds. Check my other videos to hear the rattling problem I was having. A little rattling at startup is normal with they OEM hydraulic tensioner as it builds oil pressure. Although it is nice to not have any rattle at startup and not need to periodically adjust a manual tensioner... :-)
thanks for the video. just bought mine brand new on sat. doing this same noise within the first 10 miles......pissed to say the least and my dealer thinks this may be it. My question is, was the noise from the chain bouncing off the flat bar or hitting the block? or do you think the valves were hitting the heads? making my stomach hurt just thinking about it
Yah isn't that a frustrating feeling and you just want to strangle Polaris when they say "it's a normal operating characteristic of the engine". If they did that off the showroom floor, they would never sell one. I honestly can't tell you where the chain is slapping, but I have to suspect that it's on one of the side walls since that's where the chain would be able to extend the furthest. I didn't notice any scarring on the valve cover. It's definitely not valves making contact or we would have bigger problems. Install the tensioner, you'll be glad you did. I've owned several Polaris's and they all have a bit of startup rattle on the first second or two which actually is normal...with this tensioner, you won't even get that anymore. Startups are smooth every time and that awful intermittent noise will disappear forever. It's interesting, on the Turbo 1000s, Polaris actually went with a manual tensioner. I figured they would make the change on the regular 1000, but apparently not if yours doesn't have it. Is your a 2015 or 2016? I assume it's NOT the Turbo?
it's a 2016. just bought it last Sat.....One would think that they would fix this because it's all over the internet now about them doing this. My dealer is really cool though and is making me feel better about it. time will tell now, if it does it again i'll put this kit you did in when the warranty runs out.
It is out of timing what part of the video do you reset timing?
I didn't have to reset the timing, but at 1:29, you'll see the marks you have to line up. If youtube will let me post the link, here's a link to the service manual procedure... www.dropbox.com/s/zzsd9ozi3tr8cf8/2014-2015%20RZR-1000%20and%20RZR-1000-XP4%20CAM%20ALIGNMENT.pdf?dl=0
I literally pulled the old junk stock one out and stuck the new one in..didn’t do any of these steps..maybe I got lucky
Why put it at TDC if it adjusts automatically?
Mostly to confirm that your timing hasn't already jumped and is in the right place when you button it up. Also, the OEM tensioner provides no tension when the machine is off and when you're rolling it over, the cams are loaded up by the valve springs and can cause the chain to move around and possibly jump timing.
@@RobertWelchman can't you just remove the oil cap and put the lobe of the cam up instead of ripping it all apart
It really is pathetic that Polaris doesn't put these together with quality components. To be truly reliable you have to change bearings, deal with the tensioner, carrier bearing, phase and balance drive shaft, greasable u-joints, frame gussets, front diff parts, etc. they should just go ahead and make it rock solid in the first place.
Rob Ragle
Business is business. They're not designing these machines to stand the test of time. They're designed to fail. Polaris unit sales are only half the equation. $95 an hour shop fees, premium priced replacement parts, it's all part of their plan to get money from the consumer. the engines on these things are designed to go 10-15k miles. Then you can go buy a new one.
Had to LOL at your comments. Polaris did not design these to fail. They been proactive in releasing new models with better parts that have failed over the years. 2017+ now come with automatic chain tensioner just like this one.