Sharpening Hand Plane Blades - Top 6 Mistakes
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- čas přidán 26. 05. 2020
- Sharpening Hand Plane Blades, the top 6 mistakes. Rob Cosman discusses the six most common mistakes made when sharpening hand plane blades freehand and how to avoid them. Sharpening is the most important skill for any hand tool woodworker and that includes recognizing and avoiding commons mistakes. Mistakes covered are:
1) Improper grip & body position
2) Sharpening station too high
3) Too much pressure on the blade
4) Uneven pressure on the blade
5) Cannot raise a bur
6) Sharpening above 45 degrees
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Rob’s hand plane shavings are more beautiful than many of my finished projects. 😢
You can get them too!
That made me laugh
I like your teaching style.
My teacher taught me how to build.
It was miserable.
If he had a CZcams channel people would put the volume to zero.
Thanks for the videos.
,👍
Beginning of video... Hey everybody, Rob’s showing off again!
Your best teaching yet. Thank you!!!
Great video Rob
Very good information about sharpening.
I really like the new graphics and intro that you've added to the videos.
Thanks, we are working hard to improve our videos. Keep letting me know what you think
Another great tutorial Rob, thanks.
Thanks. Check out my online workshop. There is a free one month code in the description
Simple, back-to-basics approach for your style of sharpening. With no fluff, or excess filler. Nice.
Simple, easy, and quick. The best of all worlds
Really enjoying these last few videos. Great work!
So you like the format changes we are making? This is the first video where we added an end screen at in the last 20 seconds.
Great pointers thanks 😊. 👍🇬🇧
This series of videos has come out just in time for me personally. Just got my sharpening kit delivery from your website and I’ve been looking at it for the last two days worried about ruining them. Nice to have all this new content to reference for sharpening and blade preparation. Great work.
Thats why I made them!!!!
👍Great video. Thanks to your videos and your good sharpening system I have put my sanders away. Thanks again Rob!!
Another great video Rob! Thanks
Glad you liked it. Don’t forget to sign up for our monthly newsletter. There is a link in the description
Great vid in a world that's gone mad you have provided clarity. I'm afraid it's back to grinder for my blades.👍
Thanks
Thanks for some more great lessons Rob. And thanks for clarifying about exceeding the frog angle at the end.
Yup, we always see a few students who have that issue so I wanted to explain it.
@@RobCosmanWoodworking I was one of those who just didn't get it.
The whole video is really good, but tip #6 really is a game changer. I ended up buying a jig when I first started because, I suspect, I unwittingly sharpened higher than 45 degrees. I was losing my mind because my plane suddenly wouldn't cut anymore. I think this detail is the last bit I need to be able to reliably hand sharpen. Thank you so much! I hate screwing around with the sharpening jig.
Rob Crosman, William Ng, Pask, Izzy Swann. All quite different. All good stuff.
Thank you so much I need more practice on the grinder just don’t want to mess up a new blade. On another note I just received my orders everything was amazing. Thank you for the maple syrup it’s delicious. I can’t thank you enough for what you do.
Careful, the syrup is addicting!
Ah, the new SI unit for force. “Just enough to compress a firm grape”. Brilliantly tactile description!
Sometimes i say hold a baby’s hand!
Nice editing !!! And great content, greetings !
Thanks, we are trying to take our videos to the next level
Nice 😊👍
Thanks 🤗 Have you signed up for my free monthly newsletter? there is a link in the description
Hey rob can you do a video on using wet and dry sandpaper to sharpen with a honing guide?
Cheers
I love the new intro great work. The question I have is if you have to reestablish the primary bevel do you “need” a grinder.
I recommend a grinder. Another option would be to get a CHEAP jig, and grind out a new primary at 25 degrees on a coarse stone, such as the 300 grit side of the Trend diamond stone. This will work but will be tedious.
I love the new editing, new microphone, and new haircut. The choice of transition graphics feel a bit dated, but that doesn't matter as much as the great content!
Really. Everyone else has been committing how they like it. How should we change it ( the transition)?
Another great video Rob! How do you set up the grinder to re-establish your primary bevel? Is there a way to make sure you are grinding at 25°? Would setting up a 6” grinder be different than using a 8” grinder?
Bryan..I have about 10 videos on how to grind. Just do a search on my channel for the word "Grinding" and they will come up. Everything and more is in the videos.
Rob I have to admit I haven’t tried freehand yet. I’m using lie neilsons sharpening jig. I need to take the leap and give it a try. I just got my ibc blade set in the mail this week from you so maybe I’ll prep that new blade and give it a go.
Yes do it. It will take a couple of tries but you will get it. Warning! Once it clicks you will sell your jig
Good Video. I more common mistake in my experience is, that the cutter blade and the chipper blade are not perfectly flat so there is a gap between them and shavings get stuck between them.
Most time, the backside of the blade was convex, due to trying to flatten on worn out (concave) stones or wobbling around while doing that.
Flat stones are the key and it is a bit of work to correct this mistake, but the plane comes back to life.
Yes, flat stones are a must
Superb tips Rob, today I bought my first plane and went through sharpening and made most of the mistakes (specially mistske no.8). I made my plane worse than the original. But I learned and watch this guide so I do it right tomorrow!! Thx so much for all your help.
I have been using a jig to hold and then sharpen my plane/chisel blades...my question is when I start my hand planning method, the Rob Cosman Way, do I have to reestablish a new 25 degree bevel. In other words do when you start hand planning does it have to be on a new blade...BTW the best video I have ever seen you do on hand sharpening
No you do not need a new primary bevel. The only time you need to grind a new primary bevel is when you 1) drop and nick the blade, 2) have sharpened the blade so many times you have rounded over the primary bevel, 3) you have sharpened so much that your secondary bevel is approaching 50% of the primary bevel size, and 4) you get the blade so far out out square you don’t have enough adjustment room left.
Interesting
So you liked it???
RobCosman.com of course yes, maybe not so helpful to me because I got to good results already sharpening, but useful for others!
Thank you for this video. I really liked your solutions to #5 and 6. You may also want to comment on the different degrees of difficulty that occur with different wood species. I use a lot of hard maple and edge planing is fine but face planing is a total disaster... for me. It chatters, digs in part way into the stroke. How can these issues be avoided on maple? Thank you for your time.
Alan J.
Alan i have a video coming out soon on addressing that. The short answer is sharp blade and minimal projection
Thanks for the great info. I just started watching you in the past few days. In some older videos I noticed a blank slate (badge-less) apron and hair seems a bit darker. :-) Happens to us all.
Starting shooting youtubes 12 years ago, I was 47, lot of water has passed under this bridge!
Hi Rob, i seem to always have problems with my shooting board, it seems to cut at the first stage but then after two passes, it just seems to dis engage. This happens especially with hardwood, when i extend the blade a little, it doesn't cut, and then as i extend it out, it doesn't but until its so far out, that it just jams and creates kind of like a jagged cut on the end grain, i tried checking for square with a good square (Igaging) and even checked with feeler gauges to a thou and a half and it was perfect, i suspected the sole of the plane was not flat, can that be the problem? , but when i checked it seemed flat enough though it may not be accurate as my plane bottom has undulation to reduce friction or so they say. So I'm getting a new hand plane, btw this is my third shooting board. I also tried checking the fence of the hooting board for straight, but it was. The wood that i planed was also straight. I frustrates me very much every time I try to plane hardwood even for softwood, it doesn't seem to square it. I sharpened my blade freshly every time as well. The problem causes me to always flip the board around to counter the out of square so that leaves me with a very slight sword- endlike wood. Then I have to plane the middle to square it, which makes it very hard to plane it straight. This is probably like an essay but it seriously drives me nuts.
When going for that really fine 1 thou or less shaving, I sometimes find the blade taking a shaving at both corners but not the middle. The middle is sharp (shaves arm hair easy). Also, if I go for a little heavier cut, I get a nice shaving, but obviously with plane tracks on both sides of the blade. P.S. #4 is really helpful. I often end up with a skew.
Sounds like the back of your blade is either not 100% flat, or you didn't feather out your corners enough
I’m a little late for the party but. I enjoyed the video.
One point you talked about grip ie golf club pool cue but said not about HOCKEY STICKS 😁.
I’ve been watching your videos for quite awhile this was a very good review.
Thank you, take care.
Be safe.
Thanks Larry....
Sharpening Hand Plane Blades - Top 6 Mistakes
Upto 19s - great - no nonsense, straight to the point.
20s - this kinda work - that was the money shot - you’ve hooked 99% of those who can be hooked right there.
21-25s - great sound effects - business-like - shaving at 30s - this is a great trademark.
#1 0.35-2.05 - repetition = muscle memory = independence from jigs = speed = productivity - got it.
#2 2.10-2.05 - ergonomics matter more and more as you get better and better - first time I’ve seen you actually demo all of the process in full - best yet.
#3 4.20-5.05 - good reinforcement.
#4 5.06-6.23 I messed this up with skewed bevels. Practiced with rocking the blade on a pencil ;ying at 90 degrees to the edge and just rocking the blade side to side. Soon learned to equalise the rocking. The ‘listen’ technique - brilliant. You might not know exactly what the difference is, but you’ll soon pick up that there IS a difference. For hearing impaired, i’d bet the vibration can be felt.
#5 6.24-8.45 Time checks are good - helps people going off on a wild-goose-chase - like me. Brilliant detailed demo.
#6 8.45-12.00 If the blade bevel equals 45 degrees down, then mounting the blade at 45 degrees up in that plane means the bevel is actually riding parallel to the wood surface. Got it.
12.00 onwards - the money shot again! Could watch it all day.
Great feedback...You should help us edit videos!!!!!
@@RobCosmanWoodworking I'm up for it, Rob - but have no editing experience - if you think I could help, just ask. I'd be very happy to contribute in any way possible. d.p.campbell@hw.ac.uk
The only reason I get the performance out of my hand planes is because of you Rob it may not be as good as yours but it’s pretty darn good !
Just wait, The Plane is on its way!!
RobCosman.com ha, just saw the email ! Very excited, thank you !!!
Yeah, okay, so that all makes solid sense. Watched on the heels of your other sharpening videos, I entirely grasp the objectives and the techniques... except for one part.
Maybe this is gonna sound stupid, but.... bear with me here:
1. So only the tip of the toe of the blade contacts the wood. Got it.
2. The way we establish a cutting edge is two mirrored surfaces meeting at an angle (and one that is, by virtue of the simple mechanics of the plane, possessing an upper-boundary-limit of 45º). Roger.
3. We grind the primary, then go "up", polish the secondary, up a bit more, then hone the tertiary. The net effect being we have less metal that needs removing when we go to touch up the blade, and carries the secondary, beneficial side effect that the *very* toe-tip (the "line" of the interface of the two planes of the blade that contacts the wood) is actually a WEE bit thicker, due to the blunting of the angle, thereby better preserving the edge due to the increased "support" of said edge. Copy that.
So here's where I'm confused: Let us say, hypothetically, I nail these instructions. My primary is at 25º, we'll call the secondary 30º, and my tertiary 35º. Super. We've established a pattern of a new bevel at each 5º. If I were to draw a figure with ALL 5º angles, I end up with a 72-sided figure. That's pretty much a circle. And, well, you need to see it to understand my confusion.
This bothered me SO much I WROTE A PROGRAM TO INVESTIGATE FURTHER: codepen.io/NerdyDeeds/pres/QWGzpRq (Note: that's hosted on CodePen. All the code is exposed and it's sandboxed to ensure it's harmless). You have to REALLY get up close before the differences between a circle and a 72-gon start to even be VISIBLE.
So I guess my question is: Why do we CARE if the bevel is rounded? So long as the sliver of the circle we're presenting to the wood is less than that 20º arc from heel to toe? An arc is a STRONGER shape than a wedge, architecturally speaking, and would be WAY easier to hit when sharpening... Why does all this double/triple bevel stuff matter?
Hi Rob your videos are very helpful, I have a hard time sharpening probably a patience thing, But one thing that is trouble some is I sharpen from a sitting position. Can you address sharpening while sitting, or do you know off disabled woodworkers who have addressed this thanks Mike
Great question. Everything i talk about in my videos still applies. Your challenge is to figure out how to get a good grip and try and not rock the blade as you move it back and forth on the stone. We have had several wounded warriors in our classes and they could do it, so can you.
Rob is the original Zygote.😀
Thanks for the helpful videos, The tray below your sharpening stones for collecting the runoff , what is it and is it attached to the table?
A silicone mat for dog bowls/eating area. Find them on Amazon, cheap. Its the middle size. Its not attached.
@@RobCosmanWoodworking Thanks
Not only do you love woodwork, but wood must love you when the shavings keep sticking to you.
I need cling free!!!
Hey Rob, as always - thanks for the great tips. As a new woodworker, without family or friends, participating in the craft it gets pretty intimidating when you’ve got a cart full of tools to buy that you’re not sure of or when you’re standing over a project not knowing if you’re about to waste lumber with a terrible cut. What I appreciate most about your videos is the community you’ve built around woodworking there in your work shop and the online aspect that allows me to feel like im a part of it (even though im in NY). That being said, i believe i bought a handplane and screwed up the plane blade trying to sharpen it from listening to all the other youTubers with all types of techniques and methods. If i sharpened the back of my plane blade with a low grit diamond stone every time i sharpened my blade (not just the first time like you instructed) have i ruined the angles and do i need to replace the blade? Every time i sharpened, in the beginning, i started at the 300grit on both sides and worked my way up. Can i recover or do i need to get a new blade? Thanks!
Corey you can most likely recover. What brand of blade is it? Please send me a close up picture or two of the blade. Send it to robswebmaster@robcosman.com. Let me look at it and I will tell you what to do.
RobCosman.com Thank you, Rob. Email sent! I’m embarrassed to admit that I’ve done this to both my low angle jack plane and block plane by Lie-Nielsen. I feel like I’ve bought a Ferrari without getting my drivers license... 🤦🏾♂️ lolol
I gotta say, out of all the woodworking channels I watch, you, my friend, are the ONLY one I trust or really listen too...That being said, I love my Woodriver planes and Woodriver chisels. Next on the list is a Cosman dovetail saw, I love everything you do.
Many thanks, have you signed up for our free newsletter? The link is in the description
@@RobCosmanWoodworking: I'll do that right now.
Thanks
I can never get thing shavings. 2-3 tho is best. U can shave hair, planing looks good. Normally oak,cherry & Maple woods. But have even purchased pine. Had 62 low angle have # 6 now 5 1/2 not available right now. 40-50 hours with 6 getting better.
I got a huge problem. Got the same setup as you and this happens to my traditional bench plane and also, my veritas PMV11 iron. Both were prepped to 25 degree on a Tormek T8 coarse diamond stone.
All works well until I move to the 16000 grit.
The 16000 only cuts in the middle of the blade. To even get close to the edge it takes me ages. This happens free hand and with a Lie Nielsen style honing guide. I tried 3 blades now and it is the same everywhere. Ich also used a different 300 grit diamond blade to flatten the 16K but it is always the same. what do I do wrong. The middle cuts phenomenally.
FInally Rob Cosman starting to look like a 40 year old man. Thanks for another great video!
Is it the glasses?
@@RobCosmanWoodworking Just a couple of silver strands of hair. It meant to be a compliment 😁People say I look good for my age. I am younger than you but you still look younger than me. It must be the woodworker's lifestyle.
July 31, happy birthday to me, 59 years young! Good genes, diet and hockey!
I also thought something had changed and went like "Oh where is his glasses?". Then I saw them on your head. Btw, I anticipated #1 to be "Don't use an angle grinder".
Do they make ceramic edge blades?
Great video Rob, a question of topic. How do you determine the height of your workbenches? To make a bench personal to its owners height is what I'm getting at rather than a standard height
This is a huge question. It depends on what you are using the bench for. Traditionally, workbenches tended to be low ( height of the middle of your pinky finger) to make planing easy. For sawing and chiseling you need a taller work bench. I like a compromise between these two because i just use one bench. So you need to figure out what bench height is comfortably for your body. Low enough to plane on, high enough to saw and chisel on. Usually somewhere between 36 -42 inches
@@RobCosmanWoodworking I'd have a bench that's a bit higher for power tool work, I'd be looking for a bench height for the kind of work you use yours. Cheers Rob
Great video. Informative and really like the feel it has - like I'm in the workshop too.
I bought a very old N0.6 Stanley Bayley. The blade is fairly convex - much more than Charlesworth would go for - but less than a scrub plane. It achieves that shape by having a flaired back bevel. To maintain its convex shape, one only has to sharpen the micro-bevel as if to achieve a dead flat blade. I'm not a fan of it because it inhibits the final planed finish and breaches the KISS rule.
But, I also have a low angle jack plane. The 12 degree angle of the blade means that a very slight deviation from a flat blade bottom will result in a much greater result than on a blade presenting at 45 degrees. It also means that any convexing of the micro-bevel requires more work than on a Bayley or Bedrock style plane. I'm wondering if a very slight flairing of the Charlesworth ruler system would be appropriate for the low angle jack plane. It won't increase the angle of attack, hence, it will not effect the plane finish. I'd love to hear your thoughts on the matter.
I do not like low angle plans for many of the reasons you state and more. All you should have to do is get the back flat (ruler trick) and ensure you get a side to side bur on the front.. i dint see why you would need to do anything else to get a sharp blade just because its low angle. Since i don’t use them i cant tell you much more than that.
Thanks for all the advice on sharpening It has made a huge difference to me especially after investing in a 16000 stone. However can you explain why you cant just re grind only the tertiary bevel a few times to resharpen instead of both each time?
Woodskin, I am not 100% sure of what you are asking, but here goes. You regrind the primary bevel to establish it at 25 degrees and square to the blade side if you 1) have a nick in the primary bevel 2) If your secondary bevel is approaching 50% of the width of the primary bevel and its difficult to feel the registration of the primary and/or it takes too long on the 1000 grit stone to bring up a burr, or 3) your cutting edge is too far out of square with the blade edge. Essentially the primary bevel is your registration face you use to create the secondary and tertiary bevel. You must have the primary bevel.
@@RobCosmanWoodworking Thanks Rob. What I actually meant was if you just want to touch up a blade that isnt very dull, can you just go to the 16000 stone alone instead of using the 1000 stone first
Hey Rob, Great video, thanks! ok, I have your (excellent) work bench plans, Trend diamond plate, 6000 King stone and a 16000 Shapton Glass Stone and ruler. All systems go! I do have one question (observation). In order to quickly build muscle memory it's important to minimise differences in your routine. That makes sense. However, your setup has your two sharpening plates a two very different heights. Your Trend looks ideal but the Shapton look about 2.75 -3" too high ( relative the Trend). Too high for the purpose of building a singular consistant hand/wrist angle. Also considering that you must elevate the blade slightler higher still, when you transition to this plate to get your third micro bevel dialed in a couple degrees higher. Is this not a big deal or have you in fact developed two separate, distinct muscle memories as a workaround for these varing heights? If there might be any validity to this concern I can factor that into my sharpening station build at this time. I can elevate the trend or (preferably) drop the Shapton station lower so that the wrist/elbow angle end up being exactly the same throughtout the entire procedure. Thanks for all your help, products and especially for your work with veterens. As a vet allow me to say that your commitment to help has endeared you to us and earned you hero status, Well done Sir!
То и
May I ask what brand of stone you use please? Thanks so much.
They are Shapton, robcosman.com/collections/sharpening
I have two wood planes that I want to restore. My question is how do I know if my throat is too wide or uneven and how would I fix this problem.
question... after grinding the primary bevel on the grinder. should there be a concave area in the blade and are the serration left on the blade going to effect the finish left from the blade
Tyler, The "concave part is called a "hollow grind", you will find that the concaveness (is that a word?) actually makes registering the primary bevel much easier than if the primary bevel was flat!!! When you grind, do not take the grind 100% to the cutting edge (unless you have a nick in the edge and need to remove it). Take it 95-98% to the edge so you don't risk burning the edge. When your bring up a burr on the 1000 grit stone you are removing all the scratches from the grinding stone. That is what the burr is telling you.
To get good and consistent results I use a honing guide. I cannot freehand sharpen a plane blade. :)
Daniel, Whatever you need to do to get a sharp edge, but I KNOW you can learn to freehand sharpen. I have taught 1000's of students to freehand sharpen, with a 100% success rate. Keep trying.
Does it matter how good your plane body is? or is just down to the sharpening of the blade,
I have a good plane so I think its down to the sharpening,?!!! its always been a nemesis for me sharpening freehand
Yes it does, however, sharpening is the number 1 element (I include quality of blade in this), a good plane that allows for minor adjustments to the blade and that holds the blade securely is number two, technique is number 3, flat sole number 4.....or something close to that
Rob, have any of your students encountered problems while sharpening if they have lower back problems? I have 2 herniated disks down around the belt level so i am curious about how far you are bending over while honing the blades. I would love to graduate from using my Veritas jig up to freehand but without pain.
No have not encountered that. The important thing is to lock your wrist and elbows in so you can hold a consistent angle for 10 seconds of sharpening. You could experiment with a slightly higher station and see if it works for you
#6 is the big takeaway here! Believe me, that problem will drive you crazy until you figure out what's going on.
why do you use a 1000 grit ceramic stone and not a coarse diamond stone?
i am managing to sharpen free hand, what i fail is planing a piece of wood so that there's no light coming through when i tilt my plane or a straight edge.
no matter what i do there's always light coming out somewhere especially on wider boards. I am guessing i'm getting reckless and not putting equal pressure when pushing the place.
Well don’t worry about a little lite coming through. What you want we you do that is for the light coming through to be of uniform thickness. Tilting a plane on the edge is just a quick reference to identify your high or low areas.
@@RobCosmanWoodworking i do get uniform light.. i flattened my workbench this weekend too some spot stayed high even to i focused on those spots and making short strokes.
Either way thanks for reliefing some grief.
Thanks for the reply and all your knowledge Rob and your team :)
Im pretty new to wood working and only use hand tools. I built a bench by hand, few handplanes and other tools in about year and a half with few hours a month i get to do it :)
Rob, I’ve seen your Sharpening station many times and always wondered how it was attached to your bench and what it is made from. Rod
It is a piece of treated plywood glued and screwed to a ledger board thats bolted to the bench. I show in detail how to build it in my , “ The Cosman Workbench” video available from Robcosman.com
Literally picking my phone up to ask what kinda combo square you use and "I'm using a combo square and this one's a pec" thanks for actually saying, been wondering like last 2 videos ive Watched lol
Here is the link: robcosman.com/collections/layout-and-measuring/products/pec-combination-square-6-inch
Nice tips. Only, I don't have any bevel down planes, only bevel up.
Its all the same from a sharpening standpoint. Only mistake #6 wont apply to you
@@RobCosmanWoodworking Yes, you're right. The main one that I need improve on is not to rock. I didnt see the harm, but I did notice it makes it harder to find the right bevel angle free handed. In combination with my bevel up config, when I accidentally keep raising the bevel at each sharpening, it also raises my cutting angle. This could be seen as a drawback of the bevel up planes. For blockplanes used for end grain you want to stay at a 25 degrees and nor raise slowly to 40...
I have been doing this all my life, and I guarantee you that a sharp blade using my methods will slice through even very tough wood and produce a wonderful surface., regardless of the exact attack angle. Trust me on this.
Will a crappy blade (i.e. made from soft material) cause these problems when hand sharpening?
Soft metal will just dull quicker - try it out on something like pine and use Rob’s methods to get it sharp - if you can cut hair on your arm then it’s way sharp enough to cut wood...
The 6 problems in this video are all technique issues, the type of blade has nothing to do with them. So yes, you can have these issues on any blade
My chipbreaker is rocking side to side on top of the blade, is that normal?
No. Obviously its convex. If new send it back. If old fix it on a course stone
In the early part of my life I was a timber faller and held on to a chain saw all day. The constant vibration caused me to loose sensitivity in my fingertips. It is difficult, if not impossible, for me to feel a burr. Do you know of any other technique to test for a burr?
wrecks2007 you could probably run your nail on the back and feel if it catches.
Ummm never encountered that problem. Juan has a good idea, see if you can catch your finger nail on the burr instead of feeling it with the pad of your finger. Another possibility is get a small jewelers loop off amazon and use it to visually see if you have created a burr
or the one we sell on our site robcosman.com/collections/miscellaneous/products/rob-cosmans-loupes-test
Careful at the grinder you can bugger it up real good pretty fast if you don’t have a clue. Never use a regular bench grinder wheel on something that is sharp unless you use very light pressure. When the metal is that thin you can overheat the very cutting edge before you feel the heat because you’re holding it back where it’s thicker. I almost always get something down to a fine line on the cutting edge on the grinder and then belt grind or use stones, or now this nifty little garbage disposal motor type lapping wheel with glass laps you cement (fancy) sandpaper onto. The grinder leaves it rough anyways so you still need to do one of those things 99% of the time to get a decent surface.
Don’t sharpen it all the way sharp (to a burr) on the grinder unless you’re just “kissing” the wheel, very gently.
Number 1 mistake? Don't let the wife see your new WoodRiver #5 1/2 you bought during the quarantine!
Dang. Your are right!!!!
How to make sharpening an iron complicated!!!
1:25 i thought he had lost the middle finger
Nope????
RobCosman.com I meant that the way your fingers were positioned it looked like you had lost the middle one
Hello Rob, i got a problem that i really cant wrap my head around. I flatend the sole of my plane on a flat granite, i use the shapton diamond lapping plate on my waterstones and use the veritas honing giude with the cambered roller. And still if i distribute the pressure on the blade evenly across while sharpening, when i take the first shaving it always cuts on both corners first and not in the middle and i get ugly plane tracks. I have to really agressivly put pressure on one corner and meanwhile keep the opposit corner off the stone to give me the slight camber on my blade to avoid plane tracks. That really makes sharpening a huge pain and it simply does not make any sense to me. Do you have any idea what could be going wrong here?
Sounds like your blade back is not perfectly flat. How do you prepare the back of your plane blade?
RobCosman.com oh my god youre right! That could be the reason. i never thought of that. I use the ruler trick but i have to admit im a bit sloppy with it. I will check my back for flatness again, thanks for the great advise!
@@aniankrieg3831 You may have misunderstood. The "ruler trick" is used when you sharpen a back bevel onto the blade. What Rob's referring to is making sure the back (non-beveled) side of the blade is dead flat across its width. If there's a hollow in the middle, that will cause your problem.
love your vids, but the old intro was great. No need for the new " show intro' !
we didn't even have an intro before, lol.
I know....You are so good that you don't need one. I like natural and that is what you have going so well