I appreciate your teaching a lot. I have noticed you only feather corners at the end where some discuss cambering the whole edge. Could you please address advantages and disadvantages of both? Thanks so much.
Thanks for these Rob! These subtleties are part of the satisfaction to planing by hand that I have trouble explaining to friends that are just getting into woodworking. Even the sound of plane as it cuts is important.
I have been using my great-grandfather's old Stanley no. 4-1/2 with a new blade as my primary plane until I have saved up for a new no. 5-1/2. I'm a history nut and I love using his old plane as a way of remembering the past. I have thought that I would by all my planes but I have been struggling with getting my 4-1/2 blade to be parallel to the sole. That one issue is pushing me towards a new plane. Would love a Lie Nielsen but that's a lot of $$ for a novice hobbyist. I'm waiting for Woodcraft to gave a sale on the Wood River 5-1/2 and will probably pull the trigger when that happens. 😊. Love the channel and your work with veterans!
A lot of reading the shaving depends on having a flat board to start with. That is why I will some times start with a board that has been through my drum sander. That way I know the board of pretty flat to begin with.
Hi Rob. Great video! Question... Try as I have I can't seem to get a great result freehand sharpening my plane blades. I've watched hundreds of hours on end of your videos. On a side note I've Bought many products from you by the way and love them all. Looking forward to a shooting board next. Anyhow, I've had most success just using a veritas jig for sharpening. My question is will putting pressure on one corner while on the jig once I get to my Shapton 16000, for a few seconds on each side essentially produce the same result of a slight camber? I'm getting pretty good with my planing through lots of practice but still struggle with plane tracks. Thank you for taking the time to read this.
Thanks for this video. At the beginning of the video you compared a sanded board to a planed board. I'm curious how different they would look after a coat of finish (like BLO).
Hi Rob...one more time a very usefull vídeo...I am impressed with the diference at sanded and hand planed woods...and after you'll apply the Renaissence wax...wow...must to be excellent Congratulations from Brazil
Nice video, thans. Some addendum to sanding: most of my finishing material what I use requires sanding anyway so usually I don't care much about smaller tracks if it's not a glue surface. (But if it's a bigger surface glue instead of an edge glue I like to sand it a bit for better glue penetration too.).
@@RobCosmanWoodworking Usually I do the same. I mean, yeah, all finishing material change somehow the wood, but I use shellac for instruments, and linseed oil based products in most other cases except if the wood doesn't like that or gives ugly surface - like I've got two logs of blued linden*. Or the use of the product requires some kind of laquer. But basically all of those requires sanding. Usually the technical description contains exact instructions how to do it for the best result. *not sure the exact spicies, most likely Tilia cordata or Tilia platyphyllos.
As always, great video Rob ! Just put on 3 of the adjustar knobs purchased from you and absolutely love them. Only wish I had them for my Veritas planes, but they will be on all my stanley users soon.
Thank you for the great video Rob! However, advancing the blade on the wide surface doesn't look like a good idea, because surface can have imperfection which will bias your settings. Way better is using a side of a thin board to check shaving thickness at the right an left sides of your blade.
I dont think people realize how much faster planing is than sanding. People tell me all the time they quit woodworking becuase they hate the hours of sanding. They think doing anything by hand must be too old school and out of date. Once you learn how to sharpen and use hand planes properly life is great. No dust and noisey sanders!
I like the "depth gauge". The only problem I see with making the blade parallel with that approach is the width of the wood. The wood must be perfectly flat or you're gonna get false readings from your shavings. At least it seems that way to me lol.
you're so right - there is no surface like a hand planed surface. it's simply not possible to achieve the same 'buttered' smoothness with anything else
You will not get a perfect surface from a planner jointer or table saw. Surfaces left by all those machine can be significantly improved with hand planning
@@RobCosmanWoodworking Yeah. This is why I'm very reluctant to buy jointer or such, might as well learn to it by hand first, then MAYBE later the jointer. But the cons of machines: expensive (if you want quality), uses a lot electricity, takes nice amount of space from your workshop, the dust oh dear god the dust, the noice (I hate loud noices, even with good ear protection). So far I'm sticking to hand tools and learning & slowly mastering them, BIG thanks to YOU, Paul Sellers and some others. I would have quit trying long time ago if I hadn't found your channel. Once again: Thank you.
@@RobCosmanWoodworking By definition these tools shape a board to be square and true. Of course sanding is required as with any other shaping techniques.
Yes it was a good find. You can learn to get the blade parallel by eye but enough folks really struggle with it that I think this tool is useful for them
If you liked this then check out our Hand Plane playlist here: czcams.com/play/PLqUOljnY0d9foFZY0OpBFiYNsefYhffsb.html
Thank you for all the guidance you've given me in the last 6 years. Come along way and you're a big part of why.
Wonderful!
Same. He has taught me SO much about all aspects of woodworking
I appreciate your teaching a lot. I have noticed you only feather corners at the end where some discuss cambering the whole edge. Could you please address advantages and disadvantages of both? Thanks so much.
Detailed, everything you need to plain a perfect finish. Just awesome. Thanks, Rob.
Glad it was helpful
Thanks for these Rob! These subtleties are part of the satisfaction to planing by hand that I have trouble explaining to friends that are just getting into woodworking. Even the sound of plane as it cuts is important.
You are so right
Skewing the plane gives you more reference, never thought about it this way, brilliant!
Yes as you get close to a finishes surface skw the blade to keep everything flat and relative
Great video! I love the feel and look of the planed surface so much, it’s all I do now! Thank you for introducing it to me.
Great to hear!
i watched very wood workers videos on youtube but you are a pro wood worker❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤
Thanks you for watching and commenting. I hope you learn something from our videos
Hi Rob. Thanks for the tips! Useful stuff indeed.
My pleasure
I have been using my great-grandfather's old Stanley no. 4-1/2 with a new blade as my primary plane until I have saved up for a new no. 5-1/2. I'm a history nut and I love using his old plane as a way of remembering the past. I have thought that I would by all my planes but I have been struggling with getting my 4-1/2 blade to be parallel to the sole. That one issue is pushing me towards a new plane. Would love a Lie Nielsen but that's a lot of $$ for a novice hobbyist. I'm waiting for Woodcraft to gave a sale on the Wood River 5-1/2 and will probably pull the trigger when that happens. 😊. Love the channel and your work with veterans!
Good decision. You will love a modern 5-1/2 for all the reasons you enumerated
What an outstanding video - thank you for tips and direction. I look forward to upping my game.
Some great tips for a keen to improve amateur, thanks.
A lot of reading the shaving depends on having a flat board to start with. That is why I will some times start with a board that has been through my drum sander. That way I know the board of pretty flat to begin with.
Great video Rob!
Thanks and greetings from Matamata, New Zealand
Thanks for watching!
i watch your all videos and i very like your style of teaching
thanks for watching and commenting.
This was probably the most difficult to master for me personally when it comes to sharpening and hand planing. Great job rob👌
Hopefully this video will help
you are the best carpenter for ever
Not sure I would go that far
thank you for sharing. Have a great day and stay safe.🙂🙂
thanks for watching and commenting
Hi Rob. Great video! Question... Try as I have I can't seem to get a great result freehand sharpening my plane blades. I've watched hundreds of hours on end of your videos. On a side note I've Bought many products from you by the way and love them all. Looking forward to a shooting board next. Anyhow, I've had most success just using a veritas jig for sharpening. My question is will putting pressure on one corner while on the jig once I get to my Shapton 16000, for a few seconds on each side essentially produce the same result of a slight camber? I'm getting pretty good with my planing through lots of practice but still struggle with plane tracks. Thank you for taking the time to read this.
Great tips definitely will put them to use!!
thanks for watching and commenting
Thanks for this video. At the beginning of the video you compared a sanded board to a planed board. I'm curious how different they would look after a coat of finish (like BLO).
They stark difference still remains as the sanded fiber do not reflect light like planned fibers do
Hi Rob...one more time a very usefull vídeo...I am impressed with the diference at sanded and hand planed woods...and after you'll apply the Renaissence wax...wow...must to be excellent
Congratulations from Brazil
Its an amazing difference. Planing always wins
Brilliant lesson Rob!
Thanks for watching
Nice video, thans. Some addendum to sanding: most of my finishing material what I use requires sanding anyway so usually I don't care much about smaller tracks if it's not a glue surface. (But if it's a bigger surface glue instead of an edge glue I like to sand it a bit for better glue penetration too.).
I do not use finishes that change the natural look of the wood so I always use a planned perfect surface
@@RobCosmanWoodworking Usually I do the same. I mean, yeah, all finishing material change somehow the wood, but I use shellac for instruments, and linseed oil based products in most other cases except if the wood doesn't like that or gives ugly surface - like I've got two logs of blued linden*. Or the use of the product requires some kind of laquer. But basically all of those requires sanding. Usually the technical description contains exact instructions how to do it for the best result.
*not sure the exact spicies, most likely Tilia cordata or Tilia platyphyllos.
Love your videos!
I am learning so much from them.
What hand plane did you use for this video?
Which hand plane do you recommend for a novice?
Woodriver 5 1/2
Really useful information as always. Thanks
Thanks for watching
Very nice Rob
Thanks for watching
As always, great video Rob ! Just put on 3 of the adjustar knobs purchased from you and absolutely love them. Only wish I had them for my Veritas planes, but they will be on all my stanley users soon.
Thanks for the purchase. Adjustars my be the best product we have ever made
thank yu
thank you!
Thanks
thanks
i am your biggest fan from pakistan
Thanks for watching and commenting
Thank you for the great video Rob!
However, advancing the blade on the wide surface doesn't look like a good idea, because surface can have imperfection which will bias your settings.
Way better is using a side of a thin board to check shaving thickness at the right an left sides of your blade.
I dont think people realize how much faster planing is than sanding. People tell me all the time they quit woodworking becuase they hate the hours of sanding. They think doing anything by hand must be too old school and out of date. Once you learn how to sharpen and use hand planes properly life is great. No dust and noisey sanders!
Another good video
thanks
Can this be done to an end grained cutting board? Currently I'm sanding for what seems like hours and not always happy with the results. Thanks...
Absolutely!
I like the "depth gauge". The only problem I see with making the blade parallel with that approach is the width of the wood. The wood must be perfectly flat or you're gonna get false readings from your shavings. At least it seems that way to me lol.
you're so right - there is no surface like a hand planed surface. it's simply not possible to achieve the same 'buttered' smoothness with anything else
Ditto ditto
a quality cabinet scraper can get pretty darned close.
@@redhed9776 I often use them, and a scraper plane, for tricky grain. honduras mahogany!
Have to agree planed surface every time.
I know, right!
What finish would you put on a table top to keep the natural color of the wood after planing the surface?
Clear acrylic spray
Thank you
@@radwansoueidan6390 thank you
I prefer clear lacquer spray
wax is also good
I was curious to know why you don't seem to have a woodriver scrub plane on your website?
Cheers
Stopped making them 10 years ago
Oh OK, can you recommend a alternative?
I can't get a lie neilsen one here in Ireland anymore
On a new plane blade, do you feather the corners on the 1000 grit stone or just on the 16000?
The feathering is only ever applied on the 16,000 grit stone. It is always removed on the 1,000 and then reapplied on the 16,000.
Just use a jointer to get one side and one edge straight, then use a planer and table saw to get it perfect.
You will not get a perfect surface from a planner jointer or table saw. Surfaces left by all those machine can be significantly improved with hand planning
@@RobCosmanWoodworking Yeah. This is why I'm very reluctant to buy jointer or such, might as well learn to it by hand first, then MAYBE later the jointer. But the cons of machines: expensive (if you want quality), uses a lot electricity, takes nice amount of space from your workshop, the dust oh dear god the dust, the noice (I hate loud noices, even with good ear protection).
So far I'm sticking to hand tools and learning & slowly mastering them, BIG thanks to YOU, Paul Sellers and some others. I would have quit trying long time ago if I hadn't found your channel.
Once again: Thank you.
@@RobCosmanWoodworking By definition these tools shape a board to be square and true. Of course sanding is required as with any other shaping techniques.
Where can one find (buy) that digital depth gauge?
robcosman.com/products/igaging-plane-blade-depth-gauge
My guy hippie Bob!
yup
Quite the difference between sanded wood and properly planes wood.
Yes there is. Love the look on someones face when they feel a hand planed surface for the first time
This was a great video. Your the best teacher out there, but i really hope you don't start sporting a man bunn
I prefer the David Charlesworth look to a man bun
Rob -- What are those holes on the lefthand side of your plane?
I bet the holes are for his new hand grip that he uses when shooting.
Jake (son) experimenting on MY plane with our new shooting board grip. One hole will do now that my Guinea pig looks like Swiss cheese!
#8, don't lie down on a runway!
i dont understand your language but some words i understnd
Sorry but I only speak english
❤
thanks
Whoa, I was expecting that fancy schmancy depth gauge to be $100+, but it's only $20?
Yes it was a good find. You can learn to get the blade parallel by eye but enough folks really struggle with it that I think this tool is useful for them
Man.. this guy has more plans than American airlines 😂😂😂
I am a plane crow !!!!! You do realize I have sold planes for years and it is my business
@@RobCosmanWoodworking what's your point 😆😆🤣
rob why do you march down the side of the road
12:35 Kurt Russell Does work with wood?
#Beautifulwork
yes I do
Go by sea? LOL.
thanks for watching
i am a muslim and i am pashtoon afghan i dont speak english so forgate my speaking mistakes thank you😊
No worries...Thanks for watching and commenting
our teachers dont know a hand plan he always use the raspe
he is not a real woodworker
i am a wood worker and our teachers are not a pro he are no idea what he doing what they do so how we are become a best wood worker😢
Classes are the best way, especially for a beginner. If there are no classes CZcams and books are the only option
Rob are you growing your hair long for a bet?
Nope. Its a statement
Cut your hair. Used to respect you
Short hair = respect? I’ll pass.