Eight simple and extremely effective chisel methods to avoid making mistakes during waste removal when making dovetails. The clear explanations and demonstrations coupled with close up camera work were so helpful and certainly will improve our approach and accuracy when using sharp chisels. Many thanks to TEAM Cosman for sharing and providing such inspirational YT content. It makes such a difference and is of great educational and enjoyable content.
Just have to say I’m still fairly new to woodworking and after watching one of the moxon vice build videos, I ordered the kit from the website. I may be new-ish to woodworking, but I’ve been in the business of customer service for a long time. All of that being said, I was blown away that after ordering, I got a voicemail from Rob thanking me for the order and letting me know when it will ship. Not a call from an employee or some contractor/automated service, a call from Rob. I only wish I had been free to take the call and say thank you for such great customer service. You made a subscriber, student, and return customer with a simple phone call! Thanks again!
Thanks fellas. Rob I've told you before but I feel it's worth repeating, it really males my day when I get that notifcation of a new Rob Cosman video. They're always full of really useful information. The camera work is outstanding as well so we can see with great detail exactly what you're talking about. I appreciate what you do immensely. You've got a fantastic team. Keep up the excellent work.
Really enjoyed this video and your tips. You have spoke about sharp marking gauges before. Any chance you doing even a short video on sharpening marking gauges. Thank you.
Great video! I would have never thought I would be geeking out over chisel work on dovetails, but here I am. I enjoy how deep you dive into technique and tool prep. It has elevated my work greatly!
You aren’t alone in “geeking out” over Rob’s videos. My daughters have observed me obsessing over Rob’s content and then scurrying out to my shop to test it, and a year or two ago started to refer to my woodworking activities as “wood-dorking”…
Wow...very nice advises...the tip about 17 degrees at chisel bevel is so useful...I will soon make a pair for me...thanks for sharing Congratulations from Brazil
Outstanding instructional as always! I once had a boss who pointed out to everyone under him: “ If you cannot receive instructions then YOU are of no use”!
Rob, I love your style of teaching and have enjoyed your content for years. Tbis is another great one. I hope you keep it going for many years to come.
I learned something more this time. Mistake #5 is mine. I always get in troubles when chiseling my dovetails, that's the point where I mess up... Thanks for the tips! 🙏🏻🌞
Oh my, that last one, I learned it the hard way, just like you. I only have the 1/4" in low angle, but I will low grind a 1/2" too. It makes a huge difference in soft woods such as pine or basswood.
Thanks for the tips, Rob! I especially appreciate the shallow bevel angle for use on softwoods. For a while I couldn’t figure out why my freshly sharpened chisels left hideous cuts on pine and fir, then I saw another video you made about that. I don’t have special chisels set aside for that purpose yet, but I plan on it at some point in the future.
Learning something new and I think important for helping me turn out some better woodwork projects every video. Thank you for that. Rob could you explain the advantages of the wooden mallet you use during your chiselling over, lets say a standard 1LB ballpein hammer. I can imagine the greater surface area aimed at the smaller head of the chisel is one, you dont need to keep an eye on where the 1inch head of the hammer is hitting. I would tend to use the broad side of the hammer as it is flat on both sides and creates a bigger surface. With my hammer anyway. My uncle who had emigrated to Australia got me interested in woodwork. He was a carpenter and a saw doctor. He made violins when he retired. He had a bit of trouble finding suitable timber over there as he said the timber just didn't have the tone required. He made his own planes, some the size of his thumb. To have 1% of his skill would make me happy. Keep up the good work.
I like to use what is referred to as a carver mallet , the round head you see me use. the round head is more forgiving as to striking the chisel. with a flat head you can strike with an off angle but not with a round head
i am currently making a few halfblind dovetail/wood hinge gift boxes with the full cosman set of tools for the first time (with all of them) thanks to my brother getting me a shawnshim for xmas to fill out my set up. as always, great info and great timing.
Excellent stuff, Rob! Tip #7 was right on for me today… I’m building a shelf for my shop to store heavy tools such as my arbor press, etc (20-30 lb weight) and the end supports are joined using dovetails (because, why not?). I decided to mill some southern yellow pine construction lumber for this, since it’s just shop furniture; final thickness is a strong 1-1/8”. Well, as I was chiseling out my tails, I kept blowing chunks out of the middle just like you demonstrated. It’s not the first time this has happened, either, despite having my chisels honed scary sharp down to Shapton 16,000. Since I use southern yellow pine a lot, I clearly need a couple of 17-degree chisels for dovetails in this wood. Now I know!
When chopping the waste at the baseline, you noted that you "prefer starting on the inside". This may be the same as what I do, but I teach to 'start on the non-show side and finish on the show side'. This ensures that there will be no inadvertent chisel chops sliding through and damaging the show side. With drawers, the show side is inside the drawer; with boxes or cases, it is the outside. Regards from Perth, Derek Cohen
thanks, I enjoy your videos, and I have a question about just how sharp my chisels have to be for the type of woodworking that I do.. I build displayers for a retail garden store chain, its get em done fast and get them out on the floor.. so i use my chisels to take off the occasional burr and to scrape off glue squeeze out. i dont do it often so Im not good at sharpening them so i bought an MPower sharpening device, which sat in the box for quite some time.. when i finally got it out and used it, flattening the back of my chisel then going at the face of it, I used the 250grit stone and touched the edge and it was sharp.. it seems to be pretty sharp, especially for what i do .. is that sharp enough? do i really have to go through all the grits?
What size cutter (diameter) are you using with your marking gauge? Does it matter? The 17 deg bevel looks good, it would have been nice to compare that cut with a 25 deg bevel to see the difference.
Hi Rob. I’m taking the opportunity of your latest video to ask you a question that you can hopefully have the time to read and respond. I am planing to build a relatively small shelving unit (78 inches high x 25 inches wide) with various doors that I plan to paint white. I am wondering what would be the best wood to use for this project. Would aspen be appropriate in this case or is poplar a better choice? Perhaps you have a better suggestion? Thank you in advance for taking the time to read and respond to my question.
Funny thing about these videos is, if you know 80% of it already that 20% is gold that to people like rob it's not even important but for novices like me I never would have thought of.
EXACTLY ! What I was taught had no rhyme or reason to what you've described, and I messed up "every time" I finally gave up after using dull chisels, a poor marking gauge and a 6:1 ratio. I left, annoyed and frustrated.
Just clamp an accurately square piece of wood on top where the gauge line is and keep the back of the chisel pressed flat to that piece of wood. The Japanese do it a lot. Have a look for Japanese dovetail joinery etc on CZcams
Always trying to help people. Freely giving hard fought advice from years of experience. Thank you
I am starting to pick up some of these things through the college of hard knocks but it never hurts to take a refresher course, thank you!
Eight simple and extremely effective chisel methods to avoid making mistakes during waste removal when making dovetails. The clear explanations and demonstrations coupled with close up camera work were so helpful and certainly will improve our approach and accuracy when using sharp chisels. Many thanks to TEAM Cosman for sharing and providing such inspirational YT content. It makes such a difference and is of great educational and enjoyable content.
Glad it was helpful!
Just have to say I’m still fairly new to woodworking and after watching one of the moxon vice build videos, I ordered the kit from the website. I may be new-ish to woodworking, but I’ve been in the business of customer service for a long time. All of that being said, I was blown away that after ordering, I got a voicemail from Rob thanking me for the order and letting me know when it will ship. Not a call from an employee or some contractor/automated service, a call from Rob. I only wish I had been free to take the call and say thank you for such great customer service. You made a subscriber, student, and return customer with a simple phone call! Thanks again!
Nice take on #5.
The improvement I’ve gained from watching your technique and applying it is amazing thanks for doing what you do
Thanks fellas. Rob I've told you before but I feel it's worth repeating, it really males my day when I get that notifcation of a new Rob Cosman video. They're always full of really useful information. The camera work is outstanding as well so we can see with great detail exactly what you're talking about. I appreciate what you do immensely. You've got a fantastic team. Keep up the excellent work.
You keep watching and commenting and we will keep filming and posting!!!
Thank you Rob, Great stuff.
Thanks Rob.
Really enjoyed this video and your tips. You have spoke about sharp marking gauges before. Any chance you doing even a short video on sharpening marking gauges.
Thank you.
Thanks Rob. You put the Fine in Fine Woodworking
Thanks Rob
Great tips - all of them. Thanks for condensing this in one video.
Man it was like you've been watching me chisel lol...just the tips I needed..thanks Rob for always sharing your knowledge.
You bet and thanks for watching
Great analysis Rob, thanks 🙏
you bet
Great video! I would have never thought I would be geeking out over chisel work on dovetails, but here I am. I enjoy how deep you dive into technique and tool prep. It has elevated my work greatly!
So glad it helps
You aren’t alone in “geeking out” over Rob’s videos. My daughters have observed me obsessing over Rob’s content and then scurrying out to my shop to test it, and a year or two ago started to refer to my woodworking activities as “wood-dorking”…
Great information, thank you.
Wow...very nice advises...the tip about 17 degrees at chisel bevel is so useful...I will soon make a pair for me...thanks for sharing
Congratulations from Brazil
Glad it was helpful!
The last one was new to me. Thank you!
Then I am glad you watched the video
Outstanding instructional as always! I once had a boss who pointed out to everyone under him: “ If you cannot receive instructions then YOU are of no use”!
SOOOO helpful!! The devil is in the details, beauty too! Thank you so much.
Rob, I love your style of teaching and have enjoyed your content for years. Tbis is another great one. I hope you keep it going for many years to come.
thanks
Great video sir
Very helpful video, great tips and advice.
you bet
excellent' thank you.
Have you ever made a video where you show how you sharpen a marking gauge?
I learned something more this time. Mistake #5 is mine. I always get in troubles when chiseling my dovetails, that's the point where I mess up... Thanks for the tips! 🙏🏻🌞
I hope it helps you get better dovetails
Very informative as always. Thanks Rob
thanks for watching
Great tips for using chisels. Thank you for sharing. Take care!
for you....anything
Good video. I sharpened a 1/4"chisel to a 17 degree bevel when you originally suggested it. Works as you said.
Nice work!
Great tips, thanks
you bet
Oh my, that last one, I learned it the hard way, just like you. I only have the 1/4" in low angle, but I will low grind a 1/2" too. It makes a huge difference in soft woods such as pine or basswood.
Yes it sure does
Thanks Rob. Reminders are always good. It's the tiniest of details that make that largest of results. I keep trying to follow your examples.
Great comment, Thanks
As always full of good information. I hope to improve my chisel skills with this information. Thanks Rob.
let me know if it helps
Great tips again. Always enjoy your manner as much as the knowledge.
Glad you enjoyed it
Good detailed tips Rob. I appreciate it.
anytime
Thanks for sharing those tips and the make!
You are so welcome!
Thanks for the tips, Rob! I especially appreciate the shallow bevel angle for use on softwoods. For a while I couldn’t figure out why my freshly sharpened chisels left hideous cuts on pine and fir, then I saw another video you made about that. I don’t have special chisels set aside for that purpose yet, but I plan on it at some point in the future.
they are easy to make and super useful
Good tips, Rob. Thanks.
Thanks for watching and commenting
Learning something new and I think important for helping me turn out some better woodwork projects every video. Thank you for that.
Rob could you explain the advantages of the wooden mallet you use during your chiselling over, lets say a standard 1LB ballpein hammer. I can imagine the greater surface area aimed at the smaller head of the chisel is one, you dont need to keep an eye on where the 1inch head of the hammer is hitting. I would tend to use the broad side of the hammer as it is flat on both sides and creates a bigger surface. With my hammer anyway.
My uncle who had emigrated to Australia got me interested in woodwork. He was a carpenter and a saw doctor. He made violins when he retired. He had a bit of trouble finding suitable timber over there as he said the timber just didn't have the tone required. He made his own planes, some the size of his thumb. To have 1% of his skill would make me happy. Keep up the good work.
I like to use what is referred to as a carver mallet , the round head you see me use. the round head is more forgiving as to striking the chisel. with a flat head you can strike with an off angle but not with a round head
Great tips. You wouldn't want to mix up your pine chisel sharpened to 17 deg and use it on Aussie hardwoods.
Oz woods are harder than woodpecker lips
i am currently making a few halfblind dovetail/wood hinge gift boxes with the full cosman set of tools for the first time (with all of them) thanks to my brother getting me a shawnshim for xmas to fill out my set up. as always, great info and great timing.
send us some pics when you finish the boxes
Excellent stuff, Rob! Tip #7 was right on for me today… I’m building a shelf for my shop to store heavy tools such as my arbor press, etc (20-30 lb weight) and the end supports are joined using dovetails (because, why not?). I decided to mill some southern yellow pine construction lumber for this, since it’s just shop furniture; final thickness is a strong 1-1/8”. Well, as I was chiseling out my tails, I kept blowing chunks out of the middle just like you demonstrated. It’s not the first time this has happened, either, despite having my chisels honed scary sharp down to Shapton 16,000. Since I use southern yellow pine a lot, I clearly need a couple of 17-degree chisels for dovetails in this wood. Now I know!
Yup thats a very common issue with softwood....and why I made my 17 degree chisel
Thanks Rob!
Any time
Great video as always Rob!
thanks Chris
Thanks for another great video.
Thanks for watching and commenting
Good tips. Looks like you have some new.patches too.
That's the last PHP class we had
Great video! Thanks Rob!
Thanks for watching and commenting
When chopping the waste at the baseline, you noted that you "prefer starting on the inside". This may be the same as what I do, but I teach to 'start on the non-show side and finish on the show side'. This ensures that there will be no inadvertent chisel chops sliding through and damaging the show side. With drawers, the show side is inside the drawer; with boxes or cases, it is the outside. Regards from Perth, Derek Cohen
thanks 👌👌👌
Welcome 😊
a truly great teacher - thanks for this
Thankyou Rob,I love working with wood & your tips are so helpfull thus once implemented make my past time more enjoyable.
thanks, I enjoy your videos, and I have a question about just how sharp my chisels have to be for the type of woodworking that I do.. I build displayers for a retail garden store chain, its get em done fast and get them out on the floor.. so i use my chisels to take off the occasional burr and to scrape off glue squeeze out. i dont do it often so Im not good at sharpening them so i bought an MPower sharpening device, which sat in the box for quite some time.. when i finally got it out and used it, flattening the back of my chisel then going at the face of it, I used the 250grit stone and touched the edge and it was sharp.. it seems to be pretty sharp, especially for what i do .. is that sharp enough? do i really have to go through all the grits?
What good short videos. What weight hammer is best for chiselling? Keep up the good work.
I think it more of a personal preference. Some like it heavy some like it light
Oh you chiseled out a good one l
so can you
What size cutter (diameter) are you using with your marking gauge? Does it matter?
The 17 deg bevel looks good, it would have been nice to compare that cut with a 25 deg bevel to see the difference.
Are you putting a secondary bevel on your 17 degree chisel?
Hi Rob. I’m taking the opportunity of your latest video to ask you a question that you can hopefully have the time to read and respond. I am planing to build a relatively small shelving unit (78 inches high x 25 inches wide) with various doors that I plan to paint white. I am wondering what would be the best wood to use for this project. Would aspen be appropriate in this case or is poplar a better choice? Perhaps you have a better suggestion? Thank you in advance for taking the time to read and respond to my question.
Poplar if it is being painted. Aspen is a bit stringy and softer.
Funny thing about these videos is, if you know 80% of it already that 20% is gold that to people like rob it's not even important but for novices like me I never would have thought of.
EXACTLY ! What I was taught had no rhyme or reason to what you've described, and I messed up "every time" I finally gave up after using dull chisels, a poor marking gauge and a 6:1 ratio. I left, annoyed and frustrated.
I am one of those folks who always ask "Why" so I always explain "why"
You can just use a square block of wood clamped on the piece to line up the chisel
For mistake #5 (cutting too deep on the first pass), wouldn't starting on the outside (the "show" side) also solve that problem?
When it comes to the squaring problem at 9:00 area, is there a custom tool to stay square with a surface and allow a chisel to plunge into the cutout?
Just clamp an accurately square piece of wood on top where the gauge line is and keep the back of the chisel pressed flat to that piece of wood. The Japanese do it a lot. Have a look for Japanese dovetail joinery etc on CZcams
👍
👌
If I hockey-tape my mallet, can I get a Canadian work visa? 😅
Get a haircut!!! :)
Good tips, I really liked the last one.
I can't, the barbers are on strike!!!!