Camera Settings for Shooting Landscapes - Sony Alpha Tutorial
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- čas přidán 10. 12. 2017
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Finally viewing several videos I found you Mark that explains what I wanted to know for landscape , especially coming from a different system, I also will be sure to check out your settings for action wildlife and sports.
Fantastic video, thanks! I had no idea that using bulb mode lowered bit depth. The DRO and Steadyshot tips were priceless.
agree. The DRO one was new for me and I thought I had read all the tips/tricks I could on the Sony systems! Marks vids are always priceless
The greatest combination of good information and understandable justifications for these settings. Thanks, Mark, for all these videos.
Wonderful video Mark, I always enjoy your videos
Outstanding! I appreciates your thorough descriptions and references to more detailed information in other videos.
Well paced and considerately described. The 'why' of any setting is made very clear.
I am certainly glad I discovered you! I owned the A7RII and switched over from Nikon and struggled to master that camera since there were no good tutorials on how to set it up. I upgraded to the A7RIII and your tutorials are fantastic! I have used your landscape, action and street settings as well (I also own an a9 b/c I am a wildlife shooter, but like yourself I now hardly bring it out - note I still have my Nikon D500 & 500f/4 super telephoto). Thank you so much for such explicit, clear, easy-to-understand videos - they have made my shooting life a lot easier!!! I am recommending you to all my Sony friends!
Thanks for your positive feedback :-)
I spent a few days Googling and searching CZcams videos for suggestions for setting up my new a7 III. This was -- by far -- the most useful video I found. You're now C1 on my a7 III. There were only a few differences between the a7R III and the a7 III.
Same!
Outstanding tutorial. I learned. Thank you.
This is such an extremely helpful function! Thanks so much Mark.
Superb information. Thanks so much for this. Should be required watching for landscape shooters.
All of Mark's videos should be required watching for ALL types of shooters. He is very well spoken, easy to understand and his pace is perfect so you arent lost. Excellent channel and one of my favorite pros, regardless of brands
Another perfect Video!! I really enjoy watching all your stuff. Keep it up.
Awesome video as always Mark. I thought I knew it all about my a6000 and Sony menu system but I guess not. the tip/trick about the DRO Auto Optimizer Lv 5 was an eye opener for me and since I shoot RAW I guess I will use that so I get the more accurate representation for the end result of the raw so I can shoot/expose to the right for max highlights retention and not worry about overexposing / clipping the highlights (those flashing blinkies). Great info! Keep em up. Love your channel and everything you do, esp the end result photos! Cheers Mark!
Subscribed! Awesome content, Mark. Thank you. Just picked up an A9 to compliment my 7R2 after watching your video presentation on the A9.
In my view Mr. Galer, you are the most Trustworthy and Value Added Sony Resource on You Tube. Please keep the content coming Sir...
BC Rigg - Thanks for the positive feedback 😀
Another super video. They are well done and very helpful. Thank you!!
Great video. Just made the jump from Canon to Sony with the A7R3 and your videos have been very helpful.
Check out my website as well as all the support info is free: www.markgaler.com
Same here as well lol
Welcome to the Sony mirrorless world. I still shoot Canon and Sony but 95% is with my Sony gear Once you go mirrorless you will never go back
Great video Mark this was a HUGE help to me having just made the change from Canon 1d Mark iv the Sony manuals not being the best so literally starting from scratch 🙂 I have subscribed looking forward to new learning thank you.
Great tips, I have followed them as well as the ones for Action Shooting. Very well explained and very structured. Thank you very much.
I just purchased the a7lll and found your superb videos !!!! Thanks again, for all your work put forth to make these educational videos !!!!!
One for Macro might be interesting as I would love to hear your ideas.
Mark, thanks for this great video U just got my A7R III and I really appreciate that u share you experience with us.
As a new a7RIII owner, I can’t thank you enough for this extremely informative tutorial. Learning Sony’s menu has been a challenge but thanks to you I’m already quite familiar with it!
Thanks Mark. Great wealth of info here. I just purchased my Sony A7R2 , Looking for as many tutorials as I can. Think I found the Guy. Following.
Clear and solid tips. Thank you.
This is an excellent video, sub'd and notified, thank you!
Very well explained. Thank you!
Great video on landscape setting. Thank you Mark..
Re-watched this again, sure is helpful . Thank you
At least twice, lol 😆
Great video mate, now i know the settings i need to be changed on my a7r3, hope you do more videos like this very often. Thanks again..
SUBSCRIBED
Cheers
Thank you so much I have just purchased the A7iii your tutorials and advise make it so very easy to understand
Fantastic tips!
Mark, great video, thank's for sharing!
Thank you Mark, Even after using Sony camera for almost a year still didnot know most of the stuff.
Honestly you are the first and only person who shares very ritch content and informations! PLS keep it up!!! Best wishes!!!
Wish Tony Northrop would look at Mark's videos as a template of how to teach viewers, rather than ramble, often for a hour +
Just brilliant. Thank you Mark.
As a landscaper, this video helped me so much..thankyou
So, I will own this mistake as all mine! But I thought it would be helpful for others as a cautionary tale. I was hiking from Aspen to Crested Butte with my a7r3 and watched this video to get a head start on the settings. In the video Mark talks about setting the DRO higher to help with the preview in darker scenes. I made the setting adjustment and when I went to take my shots, everything looked great in the viewfinder... only to find that everything was off by 5 stops. All the data is there but it does add a ton of extra work to my post processing efforts. Not a setting I would suggest using all the time. :) Great video and I appreciate your work. Has helped me get up to speed on my new camera much faster!
Jonathan Radin - the best exposure for landscape is the one just before the highlights clip (overexpose) - a high DRO setting is just for seeing what is in the shadows on the LCD and EVF when the contrast is extreme and would otherwise be black on the monitor. This detail can then only be made visible when shooting in Raw if the shadows slider is raised very high e.g. +80. I recommend always reviewing a test landscape image after capture to assess if the exposure can be made brighter before clipping occurs. This can be viewed by checking for blinkies (flashing highlights) in the display view that also shows the histograms.
Well done Mark! Thank you! Cheers!
Thanks Mark ! This is very helpfull !
Best Sony tutorials! Thanks!
Thanks a Lot. I recently parchase a Sony a7riii, i am using the settings you propose. I am in Sydney visiting my son. Early tomorrow i Will try to make a sunrise with these settings
💖 Awesome, thanks for this! ✨ 💖 👏
Mark awesome video very easy to follow. Thank you for sharing the information.
Watch out for that DRO setting. Mark explains it helps in "high contrast" scenes only. In all others scenes you'll get a much brighter image on the display (since the camera displays the JPEG) but once you get that RAW file into Lightroom you'll get a very underexposed shot. And since the histogram is based on the JPEG DRO version, you don't notice in the field that the RAW file will be very dark. This ruined a cloudy day shoot of mine recently. So recognize that the DRO mentioned here is really only helpful in high contrast scenes.
The optimum exposure for any landscape image is the brightest exposure that does not overexpose the highlights - we expose for the highlights and process for the shadows. If we are working to this principle (called Expose To The Right or ETTR) then using DRO to only view shadow detail that you will again see after processing will never lead to underexposure. It would only lead to underexposure if you were gauging the appropriate exposure on the shadow values of a JPEG preview.
Another excellent video from you. I love my a7r3, but instead of a cabled remote I have bought the Pluto trigger. Wonderful gadget for the camera.
Jens-Chr Strandos did u need to get a hot-shoe converter?
Brilliant video
Always helpful!
Thanks Mark!
thanks man awesome
Thanks very useful !
Great video
Very well done..........I just subscribed.
Thank you for being such a great nuts and bolts teacher. Do you do Workshops? You have great content. Happy I found you
Rob Timpe - Thanks for the positive feedback. On my www.markgaler.com website there are links outlining Training and Talks 😀
Thank you so much!
Very useful. Thank you.
Hí Mark, very helpful tutorial. Thank you. Can you please recommend a landscape and portrait ND filter for my Sony FE 24-105mm f/4 lens (Sony A73)? Best, Pascal
Great video Mark, thank you so much. Is there an easy way to revert back to the settings we had once the preset is saved?
You can overwrite the memory at any time so long as you go to the menu to save the changes.
Great video.
Thank youuuuu very much! Amazing video and was described very pro! 💯👍
Glad it helped!
Brilliant!!!! Would you mind to make tutorial best settings for interior/architectural shooting, especially when we shooting hotel or real estate on Sony A7R III? by the way greetings from Bali! :D
They wouldn't betook different to my landscape settings. I would use the FE 12-24 G and keep the ISO at 100 to achieve maximum dynamic range.
Thanks for the reply Mark! Really appreciate it, have a nice day.
will you be doing a A9 ll tutorial? Learning so much from you, thank you!
Not in the next 4-6 weeks. My free A9 eBook (available from my website) covers most (95%) of the menus.
Thanks for a brilliant video. Please keep going with that great tutorials! Speaking of landscape photography, do you recommend a faster lenses (f 2.8) or slower like f 4.0 for full frame? I’m not going to taking pictures of night sky or Milky Way, so I’m curious what’s your opinion about it.
As a I shoot mostly at f/11 on these ultra wide-angle lenses an f/2.8 aperture is not a priority. If the f/2.8 aperture comes at a price of doubling the weight of the zoom I would choose the f/4 (so long as it performs well at f/11). The Sony's 4/12-24 I tested is half the weight of the Nikkor 2.8/14-24 although the FE 2.8/16-35 GM is not that heavy for a f/2.8 zoom. When weight is a primary consideration I travel with my Batis 2.8/18 prime. This has the advantage of being even smaller and lighter than the f/4 zoom and will take screw-on filters instead of a square filter kit that attaches to the lens hood. The Batis 18 also does a good job of stars when used wide open, if it were needed. The only down-side of the Batis 18 is that it is 18 and not 16. If space was at a real premium I even have a manual focus Voigtlander 15mm with a maximum aperture of f/4.5 - the only down-side of the Voigtlander is the lack of filters available for this lens.
if you are going to do Milky Way you WILL need f2.8 or faster but otherwise even a f4 or f5.6 lens can do a good job for landscapes since most of the time you will be at f8 to f16 to get max sharpness and/or max depth of field
Hi Mark. Thank's for your very useful videos.
Could you please tell me how to get as a default setting the AF collimator in the middle of the screen.
Mine systematically goes in the top left corner on my A7RIII after each shot, whatever settings I choose.
Thank's for your advises.
Marc M240 - Pressing the joystick in centres the variable spot. It shouldn’t move again until you move it with the joystick with the touch screen disabled. My spot never defaults to top left.
Good video, thanks Mark! A question regarding the Sony PCK-LG1 Glass screen protector which i have ordered, can i put that straight on my A7rIII or do i need try and peel off the ultra thin one that came on the camera? Its been on the market for a while for the A9 but it fits on the A7rIII as well.
No need to peel off the Sony one if it is not damaged.
Hi Mark. Another interesting, and informative, video from you about lanscape photography but I noticed a curious omission in that you didn't mention the HDR setting which is installed in the camera for the very purpose of shooting landscapes albeit in JPEG quality... why is that?
I rarely need to bracket with these full frame sensors and if I did have to I would capture in Raw and Merge to HDR in Lightroom.
Getting my a6500 in couple of days things are bit confusing in terms of camera settings unless ill hold the camera and play with settings a little, great video thanks
Junaid Kureshi - it should all make sense when you can see the settings on your own camera
I agree about the Playmemories, I loved it for the wave shutter, Sky HDR which are 2 most useful for landscape. I sometimes combined both my 10ND filter with SkyHDR for unplanned landscape shoot where I don't have control over the visit, ie when traveling with my family and need to stop to take during the harshest day light. Sometime I forgot to bring my ND filter when swapping bags, I use SkyHDR as full ND filter, and yes you can do this for those already tried :-)
Just a warning you can get some colour banding/distortion when you combined both ND filter and SkyHDR so don't over do it.
So Sony please bring back to A7III which will get me across to A7III (regardless I will get it :-p)
Do you use SkyHDR prior to A9/A7III/A7RIII? Why and why not?
Great tutorial, thank you. Please could you tell me why you don’t use bracketing any more?
The dynamic range of the sensor is sufficient in 99% of situations - shadows may appear very dark in the unprocessed Raw file but this is the best sensor for shadow recovery (along with the sensor in the Nikon D850 - which Sony also makes). If I wanted to expose the foreground shadows a little lighter in camera I would consider using a graduated neutral density filter that would allow me to raise the exposure by 2 stops in camera without overexposing the highlights.
Thank you for getting back to me
Very good information. Curious to know if you've tried electronic shooting to reduce any vibrations from the mechanical shutter and if there was a noticeable difference.
fantomfoto - it is an option but there is no vibration from the mechanical shutter on the current and previous models.
Good to know, I just got my A7R3 last week, have only shot in the field once with it but looking forward to doing some long exposure photos over the next week or so.
Hello. I learned a lot from watching your videos and I need some help with sunrise photography. Where I live, we get vivid color with the sun. Lots of red spectrum color but I can't seem to find the setting to show it. It always shows the sun on the yellow spectrum and I lose all the red colors. Any advice is greatly appreciated.
Best wishes
Very helpful. Wonder what's on your lower FN line? Beginner here.
All my settings are outlined in my camera specific eBooks. Available to download at Patreon.com/markgaler
What are the two types of Tripods shown? Love the hand held one.
MeFOTO DayTrip and Bexin M225S
Thanks!
If you set the camera to shoot raw+ jpeg does creative style if changed from standard impact the raw file in anyway or the histogram?
Just the histogram and the jpeg
I hope next one will be about portrait and how set to memory this settings with quick switch. Great movie, sub+
I plan to make a portrait and an action settings movie next.
Here is his similar vid for Street Photography:
czcams.com/video/zPpelMC75lw/video.html&ab_channel=MarkGaler%27sAlphaCreativeSkills
and here is the one for Portraits:
czcams.com/video/zPpelMC75lw/video.html&ab_channel=MarkGaler%27sAlphaCreativeSkills
great video about focusing how to focus landscape to get all angle sharp?
You might want to check out my hyperfocal distance movie on CZcams
Once the settings are saved to memory and registered, it would be great to be able to change the shooting mode from within that memory. For example, I like to use aperture preferred exposure and use the exposure compensation dial, but when I need a bulb setting for long shutter speeds, manual shooting mode is necessary. Is it possible to make the switch from shooting mode "A" for "M" from within memory like other settings. If not could that be accomplished in a Sony firmware upgrade?
The best on offer at the moment is to use the 'Reg Cust Shoot Set' feature - when you set up a Custom key to pick up to 10 saved settings you can override the settings in the memory on the Shoot Mode dial for as long as you keep the custom key pressed. I have a movie on my channel that outlines this feature.
Lately I’ve been shooting stills in S-Log lowest iso 800 and in more then a few circumstances I have received better results A7R3. I’m wondering if this has been tested thoroughly I can’t find examples online currently making something on it.
Hi Mark. Having just purchased the A7R3 and have been looking at your very informative videos, the problem I have is getting the images into Lightroom could you help please..
Michael Kelso - you will need to make sure Lightroom is up to date (running a recent version of ACR).
Thanks for the videos Mark. I expect you're the man that can tell me this: on the a6500, when shooting XAVC S HD at 50p Super 35mm mode, does it offer higher quality than 100p (not super 35mm) mode? Does Super 35mm mode downscale the image like it does in 4K shooting? It does appear to be slightly sharper, but the tradeoff is only having half speed slow mo when playing back at 25fps, rather than 25% speed slow mo which I would prefer. Thanks for your time
For the A6500 - 25p 50M (PAL) will be the highest quality in XAVC HD - there is relatively higher compression on the other options (the higher the number after the 25p or 50p means there is less compression - higher quality). All the movie options have to 'downscale' the movie files from the full 6K resolution of the sensor. The downsampling that leaves the best quality is to shoot in 4K in Super 35 mode as there is no pixel-binning when this happens, i.e. the camera reads every pixel of the sensor rather than rippling lines. This choice will lead to the sharpest movie files.
ok thanks very much for the info... very useful ;)
hello marck Your videos are fantastic, they helped me a lot to adapt to my Sony a7riii. I'll buy the filters for my zeiss lenses, can you combine both filters at once on the lens? how do you do that?
Combining two screw-in filters can sometimes present problems with shading the corners of the image. It depends on how wide the focal length is and how slim the filters are.
@@AlphaCreativeSkills Thank you Mark, I need to test under real conditions to be able to choose the filters for my photos and video.
Are you expected to use Bracketing Continuous + Pixel-shifting at the same time?
Pixel shift does all the work - no other settings required.
Thank you very much
May I ask you something technical abt Sony A7r3 with GM lens? I was wondering if you, when using A7r3 and Sony 16-35/2.8 GM lens, have ever experienced the edges and corners (far left bottom corner and far right bottom corner) are slightly out of focus(16mm, f/9-11) when compared to the centre of the image or when compared to the rest of the image? I used everything that is necessary when it comes to a good landscape photo, I used a sturdy gitzo tripod, rrs ball head and clamps, turned the Steadyshot off and manual focus, ISO 100..etc.
I have to be honest that I am a bit pixel peep so when I zoooom all the way in to the pictures I took, it seems that the edges and corners are slightly blurrier when zoomed in?
The GM has been tested by many reviewers as an excellent lens - one of the best ultra wide-angle zoom lens ever made. If you are experiencing soft corners when the lens is stopped down I would want to get the lens checked to make sure that you do not have a 'decentered' copy (rare but it does happen). If you have purchased this lens from a good camera dealer I am sure they will be more than happy to swap it for a different one - alternatively you should contact Sony and see what they can suggest.
Thanks for the informative video I have an A7iii and the 24-105mm G lense. The problem I'm having Is my landscape images are lacking detail and are very soft when I zoom into the images. Any suggestions?
There was a recall on a batch of 24-105 G lenses. If you lens is affected, images are soft when AF-S is used but sharp when AF-C is selected. I suspect your lens may be in this batch.
Mark Galer's Alpha Creative Skills Thanks for getting back I got a recent one end of May.
Beautiful video Mark. I wanted to ask you if you have any advice for astrophotography? Thanks and congratulations again.
leon leon - I wouldn’t set up the camera as per this movie. Find a good wide aperture lens that is sharp wide open (f/2.8 or wider). Use the longest exposure time before the stars start to streak and the minimum ISO that will give you the correct exposure. Don’t focus on infinity as it rarely renders the stars sharp - use the magnify view and focus on the brightest star in the sky. Don’t use the DRO optimiser (as outlined in this movie) when it is dark. This is a high contrast aid and not to be used at night. You will find lots more useful advice over at www.lonelyspeck.com
Mark Galer's Alpha Creative Skills tks for your suggestions 👍🏻
Hi Mark.
Do you have by chance recommendations for movie shooting with A7III?
I didn't find any videos in your gallery and decided to ask you about it.
Thanks.
czcams.com/video/4NfqnTxpTOY/video.html
Thanks for the video Mark. I tried to make long exposures with the new sony A7r3, Long exposure NR off, but it produces files awfully full of Hot pixels red and green that it is impossible to fix with Lightroom. How can this problem be remedied? Thanks for your attention
I don't have a problem with noise reduction switched off if the exposures are less than 30 seconds. For exposures longer than 30 seconds you need to switch it back on or use a technique called 'dark frame subtraction' in Photoshop. Long Exposure noise reduction takes a second exposure with the shutter closed to see where the warm pixels are in the image. It must make an exposure equal in time to your actual exposure. This can be annoying if the camera is locking you out from taking another image when the light is just right. The advantage of doing dark frame subtraction is that you have to take just one long exposure with the lens cap on. This image can serve as the dark frame for all the other long exposure images you capture.
Mark Galer's Alpha Creative Skills thank you very much
I have a question regarding Menu-Camera1-2 of 14 Lens Comp…you recommend that if you leave these on, you should not use the CA and Lens Comp in LR. That makes sense, but is this true for RAW files, and for files shot with an adapted lens like a Canon EF 16-35?
The lens comps are applied to the Raw - it may not be applied to adapted lenses that the camera does not understand. It is applied to my native E-mount Zeiss lenses.
Mark, Lr wont let you add a 2nd Lens Shade in post after the fact if its already applied in camera, correct? You did mention having double compensations applied but was wondering what scenario that could happen? Only in a non Adobe product? As long as Adobe knows the lens and its in the d-base in Lr/Camera Raw then it should detect that the cam has already applied the corrections. At least it seems to for me when I use Lr and my Sony lenses.
*Newer photographer/videographer here*
I have a question regarding my A7iii. I already have each of the two memory dials set up with different video presets (mainly using the camera for video)
I am using my manual dial basically as my “third” memory dial and it is set up according to the portrait photography settings that you demonstrated in another one of your videos (loving it!). Since I would also like to shoot landscape photography, is there any way that I can optimize the cameras settings so that I can easily transition between portrait and landscape photos (Given my current settings) ? Or will I just need to manually switch between my settings each time I shoot portrait or each time I shoot landscape?
I use the M1-M4 settings stored on the second memory card in the upper slot that I use specifically for this purpose. I don’t record to this card so don’t have to reformat this card so don’t lose the settings - check out my movie called ‘total recall’
Mark Galer's Alpha Creative Skills that’s exactly what I needed to know. Thank you. And I will check that out 😊
I have the Batis 18mm as well and curious to know what f stop the Batis performs best at for landscapes? I think I read somewhere it was f9...
I will open the Aperture to f/11 if I'd dint need the depth of field down to 1 meter. You are splitting hairs between f/8 and f/11.
Yah I prefer f11 for most of my landscape shots I just know some lens perform better at certain f stops, so you make a good point
Chris each lens has a "sweet spot" and you have to decide if you want the image to have the MAX image sharpness (which is one f stop) or maximum Depth of Field (which is another f stop). Usually the middle f stop between the max and min f stops on any lens is the best setting for sharpness and 2 stops below max f stop (down from f22 or 32) will get the best DoF without the diffraction, which is usually f11 or f16 on most lenses. You can check out DxO Mark site to find the charts and details specs for all/most lenses out there to see at what setting each lens is best
Great video, I have a A6500 and I use app Smooth Reflections and for me is excelent Always I leave my filters at home jajaj
Mark - EXCELLENT video (as are your others!) One question.... I realize that I can save almost all the settings into memory slots 1, 2 and 3 (or 1 and 2 on my A7R3) but is there anyway to save and recall the settings that I use everyday when I'm not using the memory slots? In other words, without using the memory slots is there anyway to save my normal settings that I use in M, A and S modes? Thanks!!
Thanks for the positive feedback. Apart from the Memory Recall options (using the Shoot Mode dial on the top of the camera) there is also the option to register groups of settings and recall them by holding down a custom button - there is a movie that covers this in this series of movies. You cannot however assign specific settings the the PASM options. Additional saved settings can also be saved to the M1 - M4 options but these are temporary and are deleted when the memory card is reformatted. It is, however, possible to save these settings to your computer and put them back on the card after the card has been formatted.
Thanks very much for the reply. If I understand correctly the settings saved to M1-M4 on the SD card can only be imported back into the memory slots 1,2 or 3 and not into the "generic" settings that are used with the PASM modes.
Steve Jarrell - Correct
Thank you very much Mark. Your videos have been extremely helpful in setting up my A7RII, and they will make setting my A7III up much easier when it arrives. Your videos are such a refreshing change from the "talking heads" videos where the person is simply repeating what anyone can read in the sales literature. THANKS!
great video, thanks! can you suggest a prime lense that is below 1000 usd for landscape photography? Maybe the 15mm voigtländer, or is there a better one?
or a zoom lens would be good as well, just not too expensive... I think many people here do not have the money to throw out 2k+...
The 15mm Voigtlander is excellent but it’s fixed lens hood making the use of filters problematic. You could look at the primes from Laowa.
@@AlphaCreativeSkills thank you!
Mark, can you address the need to turn off stabilization on the Sony lenses and body IBIS when the camera is mounted on a tripod? Also is this the same when shooting video?
A good way of demonstrating what impact the stabilisation motors have on sharpness, when the camera is rigidly fixed to a tripod, would be to use a long 10 second exposure using a telephoto lens. The image will be so soft you will no longer be in any doubt that SteadyShot is designed for cameras in the hand and not on a tripod. It’s much more subtle with a wide angle setup using a lens that does not have OSS- and you can probably get away with leaving SteadyShot on if you forgot to turn it off. I like the idea of Memory Recall because I won’t forget. I recall my landscape with tripod settings from a memory card I keep in my camera bag with my NiSi filters.
Hello Mark, this video is a year and a half old now, do you have any recommended changes now that firmware for the A7Riii is at version 3.01? Found your video on the firmware 3.00 and downloaded your e-book. The landscape link takes us back here so I wanted to see if there was anything new specifically for landscapes you would recommend? Thanks very much for your videos!
The info in this movie is still current as the changes to Eye AF don’t have any impact on this workflow. I will be sure to update movies when changes do impact on the workflows outlines in the eBook. I recently had to update Action Settings movies for A9 users when the recent firmware did change the workflow.
Mark Galer's Alpha Creative Skills
Ok, great. Thank you Mark.
Hello. What do you suggest for low light or even night time settings using A7 Riii using 240 MM lense?
There is no short answer to this question.
Mark what tripods do you recommend for Landscapes and a light travel tripod
www.markgaler.com/whats-marks-bag
Hi Mark , i notice in the video you prefer Manual vs Aperture as per the A 1 PAL settings , any reasons?
Sometimes it is easier to dial in the hyperfocal distance of the lens you are using rather than use AF - check out my Landscape Masterclass video tutorial.