If you go to Harbor freight and get the 5 piece slide hammer and bearing puller set you can get that seal out. I used a large flat screw driver to hold the collet from turning wile adjusting it tight on the inside of the steel backing of the seal.
I also had a real problem getting the inner seal to come out. I am a Tool Maker and my first thought was to make a 2 finger puller with an expander to pull the seal out. After using a single lip with a tapered 7/8 rod I still failed to remove the seal. Next I tried a small pointed pin punch through the hydraulic port on the side closest to the impute shaft angled towards the seal. Then I used the shaft for the pinion to tap on the punch. This was a move in the right direction. Finally I took a 3/16 long arm allen wrench and using a propane torch I straightened out the 90` bend to a 45`, and then bent another 45` that made a 1/2` offset from the fartherest side of the wrench to the other outside edge of the wrench. I ended up with a 5/8 straight to the end and a 1-1/8 to the straight of the allen wrench that was the original shank. Then I groung a parral flat to the center line of the original wrench shank half way to the cross section to the short end. Then I ground a chisel edge on the opposite side. Insert this tool into the port closest to the seal and feel where the end of the boar and the seal steel face are. Gently tap this tool in to separate the face of the seal and it's seat. While holding down on the end of the tool use the rack end to bump the edge of the tool and be careful not to score the bore for the piston. I turned the tool 180` and taped the edge again and the seal turned 90` in it's bore and then was easy to extract. Good Luck. I spent 4 hours trying to remove the seal before making the tool. It only took 2 minutes after I made the too.
It being round you would think knocking it 90 degrees in the hole should be step 1. After that you can probably get it out by gently tapping it with long extension
Thanks for the video was helpful. As far as the dampner cover i used a 1/2 ball valve as it fit right in. Then a pipe wrench on the valve and she came right off. The inner seal is a pain in the azz fought me the whole way out, I had a blind hole puller which worked well once i got a good bite on the seal
Awesome video. I had the same problem. I cut the end of a pipe in half at one end and drilled a hole through and attacked a hardened bar slightly bigger than the geared side to make a "T" shape. The slot in the pipe would allow the bar to rotate. Then I put the bar down the shaft till it was roughly in position gave it a little twist so the "T" shape would pop out and gave it a pull I caught the Edge of the seal and It pulled right out.
So i just bought the kit myself, i have a 2005 dakota v8 4.7L, and im about to try and rebuild mine because i dont have the money to buy one. Other than you trying to get that last piece out, is it pretty simple to piece back together and not mess up the gears or bearings in it?
This is an addition to my previous comment. The AC Delco kit # 36-348501 that I bought didn't have the imput shaft seal above the pin bearing. It is a 28 id X 38 od X 4.5 mm wide. I purchased that from e bay for $7.98 free shipping. The kit did not list the individual pieces and after giving more for it than the other listings I fell ripped off. Also the tool I described has a S-curve shape. If anyone knows whether the seal I was missing actually came in the kit and I lost it ( I had the parts laid out on a card board and I have been visited by raccoons which get in from a place under my door) let me know and if it did come in the kit and a raccoon now has a new ring I won't contact AC Delco as to why it is not part of the kit.
Where can you buy the bottom plug at ?, mine is leaking but only from the plastic plug at the bottom of it , so I think it’s just the seal between the plug , but I can’t find it anywheres online
I have a 2003 Dodge Caravan and the problem is it's binding when you make a right turn when it's cold when it warms up it's it's okay what seems to be the problem
Is there a seal at the end near the gear box? I have a leak at the end near the gear box. It’s not a major leak but the boot is wet. I took the boot off and I didn’t see any fluid dripping out, I’m trying to figure out if there is a seal or which seal might be wearing out at the end near the gear box.
Loose steering comes from inner, outer tie rods. Also could be the U-joint in the steering shaft. Sometimes the steering shaft has more than one U-joint. This doesn't included bad control arm bushings, ball joints, and wheel bearings that could cause bad steering control and noises.
@@jessegibboney4389 I have a very slight amount of play in my steering. I had my son wiggle the steering wheel while I was underneath watching and feeling. I had motion solidly transmitted to the bottom half of the lowest U-joint of the intermediate shaft, without motion of the rack, so I think the play is between the pinion and the rack. Do you think I can remove that play by tightening that "plug" that you had to fashion your special tool out of lug nuts for?
Not all hero’s wear capes. Thanks man!
I used a torch to heat the tube since the seal is plastic it fell right out! Then a 1 1/8 socket on a 10in extension hammered it back in!
Thank you for your time and effort and letting me know just get a reman'd rack & pinion. You saved me a lot of time and aggrevation.
If you go to Harbor freight and get the 5 piece slide hammer and bearing puller set you can get that seal out. I used a large flat screw driver to hold the collet from turning wile adjusting it tight on the inside of the steel backing of the seal.
I also had a real problem getting the inner seal to come out. I am a Tool Maker and my first thought was to make a 2 finger puller with an expander to pull the seal out. After using a single lip with a tapered 7/8 rod I still failed to remove the seal. Next I tried a small pointed pin punch through the hydraulic port on the side closest to the impute shaft angled towards the seal. Then I used the shaft for the pinion to tap on the punch. This was a move in the right direction. Finally I took a 3/16 long arm allen wrench and using a propane torch I straightened out the 90` bend to a 45`, and then bent another 45` that made a 1/2` offset from the fartherest side of the wrench to the other outside edge of the wrench. I ended up with a 5/8 straight to the end and a 1-1/8 to the straight of the allen wrench that was the original shank. Then I groung a parral flat to the center line of the original wrench shank half way to the cross section to the short end. Then I ground a chisel edge on the opposite side. Insert this tool into the port closest to the seal and feel where the end of the boar and the seal steel face are. Gently tap this tool in to separate the face of the seal and it's seat.
While holding down on the end of the tool use the rack end to bump the edge of the tool and be careful not to score the bore for the piston. I turned the tool 180` and taped the edge again and the seal turned 90` in it's bore and then was easy to extract. Good Luck. I spent 4 hours trying to remove the seal before making the tool. It only took 2 minutes after I made the too.
How much to ship the tool to area code 60123? Lol
It being round you would think knocking it 90 degrees in the hole should be step 1. After that you can probably get it out by gently tapping it with long extension
You freaking rock thanks for sharing!
whoa, very cool … didn’t even know you could rebuild them, great how to vid ! 👏
Good explanation of everything , just didn't like all the sniffling !
yer not winin" are ya... I mean are you winin?...huh?
Thanks for the video was helpful. As far as the dampner cover i used a 1/2 ball valve as it fit right in. Then a pipe wrench on the valve and she came right off. The inner seal is a pain in the azz fought me the whole way out, I had a blind hole puller which worked well once i got a good bite on the seal
Sorry about the sniffling guys. Im not sure if you can see in the video but it was about 10 degrees outside and snowing.
Outside? Why not do this in your heated garage on your lift?
Awesome video. I had the same problem. I cut the end of a pipe in half at one end and drilled a hole through and attacked a hardened bar slightly bigger than the geared side to make a "T" shape. The slot in the pipe would allow the bar to rotate. Then I put the bar down the shaft till it was roughly in position gave it a little twist so the "T" shape would pop out and gave it a pull I caught the Edge of the seal and It pulled right out.
Prybar n hammer is how i got mine out and back in.
Sniffling just makes the repair that more epic like you’re able to commence the greatest boxing combo ending it with a boss sniffle...
slide hammer
you could try and heat it up and get it to expand a bit maybe it would of slid out with that dowel then
So i just bought the kit myself, i have a 2005 dakota v8 4.7L, and im about to try and rebuild mine because i dont have the money to buy one. Other than you trying to get that last piece out, is it pretty simple to piece back together and not mess up the gears or bearings in it?
Good informaton
Todo bién pero suenate.
so it sounds like they're sitting by the rebuilt one with a guarantee
This is an addition to my previous comment. The AC Delco kit # 36-348501 that I bought didn't have the imput shaft seal above the pin bearing. It is a 28 id X 38 od X 4.5 mm wide. I purchased that from e bay for $7.98 free shipping. The kit did not list the individual pieces and after giving more for it than the other listings I fell ripped off. Also the tool I described has a S-curve shape. If anyone knows whether the seal I was missing actually came in the kit and I lost it ( I had the parts laid out on a card board and I have been visited by raccoons which get in from a place under my door) let me know and if it did come in the kit and a raccoon now has a new ring I won't contact AC Delco as to why it is not part of the kit.
Where can you buy the bottom plug at ?, mine is leaking but only from the plastic plug at the bottom of it , so I think it’s just the seal between the plug , but I can’t find it anywheres online
I have a 2003 Dodge Caravan and the problem is it's binding when you make a right turn when it's cold when it warms up it's it's okay what seems to be the problem
Is there a seal at the end near the gear box? I have a leak at the end near the gear box. It’s not a major leak but the boot is wet. I took the boot off and I didn’t see any fluid dripping out, I’m trying to figure out if there is a seal or which seal might be wearing out at the end near the gear box.
Great video thanks for your suffering so I will not
what's going on with does buggers bro?? some good coke you been talking..
How does one tighten the steering on this setup without removing everything?
Loose steering comes from inner, outer tie rods. Also could be the U-joint in the steering shaft. Sometimes the steering shaft has more than one U-joint. This doesn't included bad control arm bushings, ball joints, and wheel bearings that could cause bad steering control and noises.
@@jessegibboney4389 I have a very slight amount of play in my steering. I had my son wiggle the steering wheel while I was underneath watching and feeling. I had motion solidly transmitted to the bottom half of the lowest U-joint of the intermediate shaft, without motion of the rack, so I think the play is between the pinion and the rack. Do you think I can remove that play by tightening that "plug" that you had to fashion your special tool out of lug nuts for?
I replaced my steering shaft. If a steering wheel with too much play is what you are referring to.
What year dak?
Good video but blow your nose
clean your nose man !!!
instead of drawing on the napkins use them please !