Power Steering Rack and Pinion Rebuild. Chevy Truck.
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- čas přidán 7. 02. 2023
- Continuing with the repairs to our 2000 Chevy 1500 Front Suspension and Steering. This video covers the complete rebuild of the Rack and Pinion.
Rockauto.
The rack seal kit - Gates 348364
and the Rack Input Shaft Bearing and Seal kit - Dorman 905515.
#powersteering #chevy #rackandpinion #steering #truck #suspension #automotive #chevytrucks #diy - Auta a dopravní prostředky
Great pair of videos for tear down and assembly. How did your remove the inner tube seal for the housing? What kind of tool did you use?
I used my picks and taped them to long screwdrivers. The seals are not easy to remove, and you don't want to scratch any part of the inside of the "tube" that could potentially cause a leak. Use plenty of tape to cover the screwdrivers tips. Here is a link to the Fix the Rust Bucket Facebook Page, I posted some pictures of the picks and seal after it was removed. facebook.com/fixtherustbucket
Thanks for the question! I hope you subscribed to the channel, we are just getting started and are lining up some great projects and DIY's. Chris.
I went to Harbor freight bought a long reach set of needle nose pliers and the longest flat head screw drivers you gotta bend the lip of the seal and use the pliers to grab it and pull it out but make sure you get a good bite and your good!
You can use a wooden dowel inserted in the end of the tube as well to remove the rack seal. Or a piece of steel tube wrapped in tape to keep from marring.
Great video, a little lubrication with power steering fluid might help with installing those seals and o rings.
Excellent video thanks.
Buddy, you just saved me about $500 dollars. Bought a junkyard rack and rebuilt it with a $30 kit. Thanks
Now I understand why repairing that component is so expensive and almost no one does it on their own opting for seal regenerating fluids. It is extremely easy to bite a new seal, and once you have it all installed you will have a fluid leak again.
It is not something that I would dare to do due to the amount of time spent and the high risk of failure, but the process is very well explained.
Thanks brother. This was perfect
This is one of the best instructions rebuild i have seen on CZcams. Thank you!
I appreciate that, thank you.
Thanks man I just bought a rebuilt rack and pinion I understand where mine is leaking from now
Thank you! The part approximately 20 minutes in about compressing the seals with plastic and zip ties has helped me so much. I was struggling to get it back together because of those seals. I was trying to use a thin piece of metal sleeved inside the throat of the housing to get the seals past the little lip, that wasn't working at all.
Great video, very thorough. My only recommendation would be to use an O-ring lube when installing the seals and O-rings to help prevent damage on the edges. Plus, it helps get them started. Also, did you have any issues with steering wheel alignment? I am assuming the pinion is clocked to the rack to ensure the steering shaft locking bolt is in the right position. Lastly, the guide bushing spring, did you count the revolutions of the lock nut to make sure it had the same tension on the spring? How critical is spring pressure for the guide?
Great video! Are there o-rings I should replace on the power steering lines you show at the 38:40 mark? Also, looks like the Gates 348364 is identical to the FVP/Edelmann 8787 Rack and Pinion Seal Kit. RockAuto doesn't sell the Gates kit anymore but the stock photo is identical to the FVP/Edelmann 8787 kit.
Yes, there are O-rings on the end of the lines where they install onto the pinion housing. It would not hurt to replace them during the rebuild. I did not have any at the time and the ones here still looked good. If you're going to rebuild a rack, it would be easier to replace them at this time then find a leak later. I should have pointed that out.
Where did you order the lower piston bearing? I cant find it anywhere.
Mine was still good, so I cleaned and packed grease in it. That bearing does not take a lot of wear and tear on it, it pretty much just holds the pinion in line but…… it can wear out. I found one place to purchase a replacement, CARPARTS.com. Double check with them before ordering to make sure it’s the correct one you're looking for. The part number on their site is 09413427, and its part specific for a 2000 Chevy Silverado 1500. cost was $60.99. Hope this helps, thanks for your question. If you haven't already, Subscribe to the Fix the Rust Bucket channel, we are just getting started with loads of information and fun. Soon we will be starting a 1988 Ford Bronco complete frame off rebuild.
How did you take them out of the middle seal(14 inch long one)
He is a link to Fix The Rust Bucket Facebook Page. I show how I was able to get the inner seals out.
m.facebook.com/story.php?story_fbid=pfbid0eqDu2nvdV5ECX1exu2xHfQyaBtbpZfX4xunmPLgrohK7g5VYMSZkzdhDCVMJfZZol&id=100076272223571&mibextid=Nif5oz
Thanks for the videos they're very helpful. I'm in the process of rebuilding 2-2001 Silverado 1500s. I think I will save a lot of money with the help of your videos. 👍
I appreciate the comment. I have much more coming with this truck. I am currently working on the front suspension and getting those videos edited. I will then be getting back to the body work and nose repairs. Stick around, much more is planned for this truck.
This looks like it could be the same procedure for a C5 Corvette rack. Most of the parts look exactly alike. Anybody have any thoughts on that?
Yes, for the Corvette rack, it's the same procedure. I believe the only difference between the two is the Pinion housing size. Different rebuild kit numbers only.
I bought new teflon rings. I installed them but with the plastic sleeve I can't get them to shrink down. If I tighten the zip ties down they will not stay in the groove
The zip tie way is not as easy as it looks. It can be difficult to get everything lined up. Mabey try using a wider zip tie and see if that helps. Whatever you do, don't force the rings into the housings. It will destroy them. I cannot think of the name of the tool right now, but there is a tool that is specifically made for this application. It's not cheap and that's why I used the tie method.
@@fixtherustbucket I purchased the Edelmann 8786 Power Steering Rack and Pinion Seal Kit. The rings appear smaller so I will give that a try.
The only thing forgot was where the pinion is pointing before disassembly bc the steering wheel is probably off in the truck it's installed in..
Incorrect, the trucks steering wheel and wheels are dead on straight. If you were to purchased a used rack, there would not be any reference marks for the re-installation once rebuilt.
These two videos were about rebuilding a rack not the installation onto a vehicle.
Its not a bad idea, maybe I’ll do a video on this one day.
For now there are plenty of videos out there showing someone how to center and reinstall the rack.
Can you explain how did you removed the body valve lower shaft seal?
I first tried a socket attached to an extension, that did not work. I then used my picks and taped them to long screwdrivers. The seals are not easy to remove, and you don't want to scratch any part of the inside of the "tube" that could potentially cause a leak. Here is a link to the Fix the Rust Bucket Facebook Page, I posted some pictures of the picks and seal after it was removed. facebook.com/fixtherustbucket
This one was stuck really hard in there. I had to free up the sides first, then I was able to pick and pull the seal and white hard plastic rings out. This was for both of the seals. I hope this helps a bit more and helps you with yours.
@@fixtherustbucket appreciate your time and effort 👌
How did it work? Did it feel oem? I want to rebuild mines since I feel it’s very expensive for a new one if I can rebuild it . Would you recommend it?
I do not have the truck on the road yet as I am finishing up new shocks, ballpoints, bushings, hubs, and brakes. I did however drive it around a bit before pulling the suspension off and it performed flawlessly. Just as smooth as if you purchased one. If you have the tools on hand for the repair its worth a try. Rack and Pinions are running $200 to $600 for new and/or remanufactured depending on the make and model. Look around for discounts on the kits. You can get a kit(s) for around $80 +/-. If you give it a try and are successful, you have saved money and now have the new skill(s) of rebuilding a rack.
I sent you an email
I just got done doing this on an 03 silverado 400k miles. Mine feels real good, all the seals are nice and tight and everything moves nice and smoothly. I'd probably only buy a new one if I had a lot of metal wear to the point that the seals can't seal properly. Which most people won't have that issue so I'd definitely recommend rebuilding it. I ended up using worm gear hose clamps instead of zip ties. My original seals were in there pretty good i had to hammer them out. That was the most time consuming part. Good luck.
@@LS6M thank you. I just bought all the parts and made a list of tools I needed and everything . Mines is leaking from the top but I’m rebuild it and hopefully it will be good for a while . My truck sat for 5 years before I bought it from the first owner and I’m assuming that’s when the seals went bad but it’s fine
@@rodolfogutierrez1913 mine was leaking out from the bellows. I also replaced all the lines and added a hydroboost inplace of the vacuum booster. I mainly did that because I added the 4 piston brembo front calipers that come on the newer silverados. Another thing, that nut with the spring and lock nut, there's a procedure to tighten it properly. I'm not sure exactly what it is but usually it's like snug it down then back off about 45degrees. You don't want it too tight or too loose. I had mine in a vise holding it. After I tighten it I rotated the steering gear to see how it moved making sure it wasn't too tight. I'd also double check it after installation and test driving it. Making sure the wheels go back straight after turning. You can adjust it while it's on the truck after. I can be wrong about this but my previous cars I'd had to adjust the lash so I'm assuming the same is required here.
How do I get in contact with you if I have questions about fixing my rack n pinion?
You can contact me here at fixtherustbucket@gmail.com If you have a question(s). I check in everyday here on the channel and email.
@fixtherustbucket great video and really good of you to check the comments.
If you don't mind, the pinion seal above the white plastic sleeve, is the spring side facing up toward the steering shaft? When I pushed mine out I didn't catch the orientation when it came out 😒
What seal kit did you buy?
I purchased two kits, both from Rockauto.
The rack seal kit - Gates 348364
and the Rack Input Shaft Bearing and Seal kit - Dorman 905515. The Dorman kit has the top bearing for the Pinion.
Where did you find the lower bearing for the pinion( the small one). I can't find it anywhere.
@@carruthfarms6526 Mine was still good, so I cleaned and packed grease in it. That bearing does not take a lot of wear and tear on it, it pretty much just holds the pinion in line but…… it can wear out. I found one place to purchase a replacement, CARPARTS.com. Double check with them before ordering to make sure it’s the correct one you're looking for. The part number on their site is 09413427, and its part specific for a 2000 Chevy Silverado 1500. cost was $60.99. Hope this helps, thanks for your question. If you haven't already, Subscribe to the Fix the Rust Bucket channel, we are just getting started with loads of information and fun. Soon we will be starting a 1988 Ford Bronco complete frame off rebuild.
Can you just put the parts in the freezer before insertion.
Its has been said you can. I have tried that way but with little success.
You never set the preload 😂
As far as I remember, you were not sitting next to me while I was completing this….. Look at the very end of the video…. The rack guide screw has been set to the right adjustment for this particular rack and pinion. I will not give someone a specific toque specification as all rack and pinions differ per make, model, and year.
Having watched this video, it's clear you have 0 idea of the true meaning of a "rust-bucket". The rack had 0 "heavy rust" to be removed, you don't even know what that means. All there was, was VERY light surface corrosion. It was virtually pristine for being 24 years old.
Try a 24 year old DD Michigan vehicle, than you can earn the name of this channel.
Is there a reason that everything goes back dry, with no silicone lube?
Good question. No need to silicone anything during the rebuild. The only part I lubricate is the Rack itself along the grooved area. Putting a small amount of grease on the sides lessons the chance of damaging the inner seal. The rest of the Rack and Pinion will be lubricated as you refill with power steering fluid. As you are refilling and checking the fluid level, you will also turn you wheel left and right working the fluid into the rack. Just do not turn the wheel so far that you hear the power steering pump straining. You do not want silicone/grease in the fluid and fluid in the grease as it can cause one or both to loss their properties.