Hi John, great how to video mate, I'm one of your subscribers & regularly watch your videos & always give you a thumbs up! Just thought I'd let you know there's one thing you've overlooked bleeding the brakes. You also need to bleed the ABS Pump which you need the B.U.D.S for to cycle the pump to flush out the old fluid! The only other way you can get around it if you don't have the B.U.D.S is to bleed the brakes, then go for a ride & apply the brakes hard several times to activate the ABS Pump & then bleed the brakes again. If you don't, you will still have old brake fluid trapped inside the pump, thought I better bring this to your attention! Cheers mate 👍😁 Beanie (Australia)
The "way to get around it"... why would that move or cycle the fluid in the ABS pump or brake calipers though? It's only pumping the brakes, right? The same fluid would still be in the brake lines and calipers, I would think. Shame nobody has figured out a way to hotwire that pump and force it to run on-demand... somebody needs to! Also the VSS has the ability to apply the brakes to prevent roll-overs from happening, how does one flush that out? My fluid is now almost 18 years old and the fluid in my reservoir is still clear as a bell! But now I'm getting Brake Failure message constantly (and it is full to the lips mind you!), so even though my brakes still work perfectly and feel solid I guess I've no choice but to flush and bleed the system... somehow, and by myself. Ughhhh!
There is a motorcycle single-person brake-bleeder unit I found on Ebay very inexpensive it's essentially 2 clear tubes with a 1-way check valve between them (the valve is stamped with an arrow to indicate direction of flow from caliper to waste container). When you pump the brake pedal the fluid goes thru the hose thru the 1-way valve to the waste container, but when you release the brake pedal the fluid cannot back-up past the 1-way valve hence no air can get into the caliper. I did my front brakes yesterday evening, it worked very well... by myself! I think I spent less than ten bucks on the thing. Doing my rear brake here in a bit. Regards!
Hey John! Great video, thank you for your time and efforts! I heard the mention that in hindsight next time you will bleed/flush the rear brakes while the caliper is down... I’ll throw in some of my very little experience with the spyders here... you need a special tool to “relax” (not the proper term, but I have lost the word I’m looking for) the rear caliper... never press the rear piston in, you must twist it in or else you will damage it. Harbor Freight sells a kit that has the tool in it. I give you this heads up for when you replace the rear brakes and also if you decide to bleed/flush the rear brakes with the caliper removed. They are proud of those calipers, be careful with them!
Thank you, John! May I draw your attention to the Spyder being a metric unit. That would prevent you stripping any bolts by chance. Also I recommend avoiding activating parking brake without the brake arm for the drum at the motor would overextend and brake the brake switch. When removing the mirror have one hand on the top and another under which is used to pull up sharply. Never broken a clip yet having serviced all the trikes.
John, great video, I was a automotive technician for 20 years and I want to help ya out on identifying brake caliper parts and tools, for future reference when you bleed the brakes the "bleeder valve" is what you open to release fluid, when removing the rear caliper that hard to get to bolt you can use a 3/8 swivel, that will allow you to get that bolt out without the extra work. When replacing your brake pads do you go back with the OEM brake pads? Through some research I have found that the ebc fully senitered brake pads are better than the brembo pads especially when riding 2 up, shorter stopping distance. Lamonstergarage.com has the ebc brake pads I mentioned. As someone mentioned in a previous post magic mirrors are a must, no more beating your mirrors off and it's a relatively easy install. Hopefully Cindy and I will meet you guys in our travels.
Thanks Jeff, I tried two swivels, could not get the leverage to turn the wrench under the muffler. But removing the park brake arm was easy once I figured out how. Thanks for the tip on the brakes, I will put that on my parts list. I did some research on the magic mirrors. some report interference with sensors, which is why I got the plastic parts for now... any feedback on them from you?
Very informative and easy to follow video. Simple task that could save quite a few dollars. Hang in there, Ryding season is just the corner. Stay Alert. Ryde Safe, in a fun way. Thanks for sharing. 😎.
I know I am a little slow getting your video. Just a not get a brake vacuum pump. It will make life easier and less change of damaging the rear caliper. Do not pump the brake with caliper off of any wheel. You could push the caliper pistons out to far and break the seal. Love your experience.
Good how-to video John. There are brake fluid flushing tools (work by vacuum) that make the "assistant" unnecessary. Maybe you like the company? Also, as you probably know, you do not want to get DOT4 brake fluid on any painted surfaces. Bad news!
Good tip about DOT 4, I have this thing about tools. I hate clutter, so I have a philosophy about tools, If I only use in once a year, I can do without it. It just takes up space 99.9% of the time. The only exception is the Fire Extinguisher!!!
John, Why would you break "mirror clips" when doing maintenance on the brakes? What are mirror clips? How could they get broken when doing the brake maintenance you did? Thanks. Enjoying your videos.
Hay Pat, When taking off the side body panels to access the oil filter, one must remove the side mirror. They are held on with plastic and rubber clips. Kind of a week point.
@@JohnMiriamsTravelVlog Ahh ok. Great to know thanks! As I commented on one of your other videos, I'm very likely buying a 2014 Limited from a friend so I'm trying to learn all I can going into it. Thank you again! Much appreciated. :)
Good morning, John. Have a brake bleeding question for you. When you bleed your brakes do you get a steady stream of brake fluid coming out of your tubing or just a trickle? I have bled my brakes and seems I am only getting small trickles at best. I have removed and inspected the bleeder valves, they are clean as a whistle. May be this is just normal and I'm expecting a better flow rate. What do you think? Thanks in advance.
Hay George, its a 2014. I would suspect the brakes are similar. but check your Manuel first. I downloaded a service Manuel, if I recall it was about $35
7:13 why kicks when you put on reverse? Is that normal? I just got a 2014 can am spyder rt limited and sometimes feels like kicks on first gear and reverse.
Should be a indicator line on the bottle. If you are a bit low and encounter an incline you will get a brake failure warning... Happens to us last summer in the Mountains,,, It freaked me out.
John, I am very frustrated with my dealer that I just paid 780.00 for a battery and 9000-mile maintenance service. Now, they say I have air in the brakes and want 825.00 to correct. It's totally outrageous.
That is bizarre, a battery including shipping should never exceed $200 and can be installed in under an hour. Typical oil change is about 350 which is why I do mine myself even if it takes half a day. Air in brake line is a simple fix requiring simple tools. CZcams videos available how to even if it takes you the entire day you have saved $800
@@JohnMiriamsTravelVlog Thank you John. I located a dealer in Kings Bay, ( 43 miles from me ) that will flush and bleed the brakes including computer reset, for 225. The 825 just floored me, I knew it had to be gouging. Sad situation. I did enjoy your video and look forward to checking others out.
@@JohnMiriamsTravelVlog Search Ebay for "Y50-N18L-A3 Battery" it's a perfect fit for my 2012 RS (and basically all the RS(S) year models!). There are a few of them listed right now, I got the Pirate Battery one it has skull and crossbones on the side of the battery. If your Spyder model uses the same battery as an RS or RSS then this battery will fit! There is a metal tension clamp in the back of the battery tray that holds the battery tight (in addition to the rubber strap that secures it in the tray), I had to spread that clamp just a little so the battery would go in all the way so be aware of that! And it only costs $65 delivered to your door! Pretty easy to install, takes maybe 35 minutes or so.
Wow, just asked my local dealer the cost of a brake flush with abs cycling and was told it’s 4 hours and $650 roughly.. Australian prices.. maybe its BUDS buying time unless I find another way..
@@JohnMiriamsTravelVlog Yes, I did add brake fluid a few weeks ago. Never done anything else before that nor after adding brake fluid. I have a 2011 Spyder RSS SE5...have had it since new...currently only 9000 miles.
great video John. Have you seen the kit that replaces the mirror clips with super magnets? Seemed like a pretty slick idea. I found the video review on Lamonstergarage.com. They seemed to hold tight up to speeds that I would not want to be going :-)
Hi John, great how to video mate, I'm one of your subscribers & regularly watch your videos & always give you a thumbs up! Just thought I'd let you know there's one thing you've overlooked bleeding the brakes. You also need to bleed the ABS Pump which you need the B.U.D.S for to cycle the pump to flush out the old fluid! The only other way you can get around it if you don't have the B.U.D.S is to bleed the brakes, then go for a ride & apply the brakes hard several times to activate the ABS Pump & then bleed the brakes again. If you don't, you will still have old brake fluid trapped inside the pump, thought I better bring this to your attention! Cheers mate 👍😁 Beanie (Australia)
Thank you, I did not know that. Now I will add that to my fall service list of things to do..
@@JohnMiriamsTravelVlog No worries John! 👍😁 Beanie
The "way to get around it"... why would that move or cycle the fluid in the ABS pump or brake calipers though? It's only pumping the brakes, right? The same fluid would still be in the brake lines and calipers, I would think. Shame nobody has figured out a way to hotwire that pump and force it to run on-demand... somebody needs to!
Also the VSS has the ability to apply the brakes to prevent roll-overs from happening, how does one flush that out?
My fluid is now almost 18 years old and the fluid in my reservoir is still clear as a bell! But now I'm getting Brake Failure message constantly (and it is full to the lips mind you!), so even though my brakes still work perfectly and feel solid I guess I've no choice but to flush and bleed the system... somehow, and by myself. Ughhhh!
There is a motorcycle single-person brake-bleeder unit I found on Ebay very inexpensive it's essentially 2 clear tubes with a 1-way check valve between them (the valve is stamped with an arrow to indicate direction of flow from caliper to waste container). When you pump the brake pedal the fluid goes thru the hose thru the 1-way valve to the waste container, but when you release the brake pedal the fluid cannot back-up past the 1-way valve hence no air can get into the caliper. I did my front brakes yesterday evening, it worked very well... by myself! I think I spent less than ten bucks on the thing. Doing my rear brake here in a bit. Regards!
I have a 2011 R-SS..would be nice to see the complete removal and installation..😊
Gonna tackle my brake fluid flush soon , really appreciate your channel!
Hey John! Great video, thank you for your time and efforts! I heard the mention that in hindsight next time you will bleed/flush the rear brakes while the caliper is down... I’ll throw in some of my very little experience with the spyders here... you need a special tool to “relax” (not the proper term, but I have lost the word I’m looking for) the rear caliper... never press the rear piston in, you must twist it in or else you will damage it. Harbor Freight sells a kit that has the tool in it. I give you this heads up for when you replace the rear brakes and also if you decide to bleed/flush the rear brakes with the caliper removed. They are proud of those calipers, be careful with them!
Thank you,,, It looks like the brakes will be on my winter list.
Thanks for the video John, Another reference for in my journey to being a DIY Spyderer. I used your oil change video for my end of season change.
The scary thing is I will too in a few weeks. Just so I dont forget anything.
Thank you, John! May I draw your attention to the Spyder being a metric unit. That would prevent you stripping any bolts by chance.
Also I recommend avoiding activating parking brake without the brake arm for the drum at the motor would overextend and brake the brake switch.
When removing the mirror have one hand on the top and another under which is used to pull up sharply. Never broken a clip yet having serviced all the trikes.
Thanks, I know that the park brake can be an issue.
John, great video, I was a automotive technician for 20 years and I want to help ya out on identifying brake caliper parts and tools, for future reference when you bleed the brakes the "bleeder valve" is what you open to release fluid, when removing the rear caliper that hard to get to bolt you can use a 3/8 swivel, that will allow you to get that bolt out without the extra work. When replacing your brake pads do you go back with the OEM brake pads? Through some research I have found that the ebc fully senitered brake pads are better than the brembo pads especially when riding 2 up, shorter stopping distance. Lamonstergarage.com has the ebc brake pads I mentioned. As someone mentioned in a previous post magic mirrors are a must, no more beating your mirrors off and it's a relatively easy install. Hopefully Cindy and I will meet you guys in our travels.
Thanks Jeff, I tried two swivels, could not get the leverage to turn the wrench under the muffler. But removing the park brake arm was easy once I figured out how. Thanks for the tip on the brakes, I will put that on my parts list. I did some research on the magic mirrors. some report interference with sensors, which is why I got the plastic parts for now... any feedback on them from you?
Very informative and easy to follow video. Simple task that could save quite a few dollars. Hang in there, Ryding season is just the corner. Stay Alert. Ryde Safe, in a fun way. Thanks for sharing. 😎.
I know I am a little slow getting your video. Just a not get a brake vacuum pump. It will make life easier and less change of damaging the rear caliper. Do not pump the brake with caliper off of any wheel. You could push the caliper pistons out to far and break the seal. Love your experience.
Very helpful video, I shall be bleeding my brakes tonight I suspect
Thank you so much John!
Good how-to video John. There are brake fluid flushing tools (work by vacuum) that make the "assistant" unnecessary. Maybe you like the company? Also, as you probably know, you do not want to get DOT4 brake fluid on any painted surfaces. Bad news!
Good tip about DOT 4, I have this thing about tools. I hate clutter, so I have a philosophy about tools, If I only use in once a year, I can do without it. It just takes up space 99.9% of the time. The only exception is the Fire Extinguisher!!!
We’re do you get your parts from thanks
Do you have a video of changing your battery?
John, Why would you break "mirror clips" when doing maintenance on the brakes? What are mirror clips? How could they get broken when doing the brake maintenance you did? Thanks. Enjoying your videos.
Hay Pat, When taking off the side body panels to access the oil filter, one must remove the side mirror. They are held on with plastic and rubber clips. Kind of a week point.
@@JohnMiriamsTravelVlog Ahh ok. Great to know thanks! As I commented on one of your other videos, I'm very likely buying a 2014 Limited from a friend so I'm trying to learn all I can going into it. Thank you again! Much appreciated. :)
Good morning, John. Have a brake bleeding question for you. When you bleed your brakes do you get a steady stream of brake fluid coming out of your tubing or just a trickle? I have bled my brakes and seems I am only getting small trickles at best. I have removed and inspected the bleeder valves, they are clean as a whistle. May be this is just normal and I'm expecting a better flow rate. What do you think? Thanks in advance.
Thats odd, did you remove the cap, on the brake fluid container? I have never had that issue.
Hey John great video but what year is that can am cuz I got a 2010 can I bleed the brakes the same way
Hay George, its a 2014. I would suspect the brakes are similar. but check your Manuel first. I downloaded a service Manuel, if I recall it was about $35
Nice video but how do you remove the brake failure message
Once we got back on level ground and shut down for gas, it cleared up. Once I adjusted the fluid level, it never came back. ,,, self fixing.
7:13 why kicks when you put on reverse? Is that normal? I just got a 2014 can am spyder rt limited and sometimes feels like kicks on first gear and reverse.
I am told that is normal, I hope so,,
How much should be in the brake fluid reservoir??
Should be a indicator line on the bottle. If you are a bit low and encounter an incline you will get a brake failure warning... Happens to us last summer in the Mountains,,, It freaked me out.
Slingmods .com has magnets for the mirrors to pop on and off...thanks you for how you did your break fluid...
Thanks Lloyd, I was thinking about the magnets, but saw some people reported interference with sensors. Still doing some research on that..
John, I am very frustrated with my dealer that I just paid 780.00 for a battery and 9000-mile maintenance service. Now, they say I have air in the brakes and want 825.00 to correct. It's totally outrageous.
That is bizarre, a battery including shipping should never exceed $200 and can be installed in under an hour. Typical oil change is about 350 which is why I do mine myself even if it takes half a day. Air in brake line is a simple fix requiring simple tools. CZcams videos available how to even if it takes you the entire day you have saved $800
@@JohnMiriamsTravelVlog Thank you John. I located a dealer in Kings Bay, ( 43 miles from me ) that will flush and bleed the brakes including computer reset, for 225. The 825 just floored me, I knew it had to be gouging. Sad situation. I did enjoy your video and look forward to checking others out.
@@JohnMiriamsTravelVlog Search Ebay for "Y50-N18L-A3 Battery" it's a perfect fit for my 2012 RS (and basically all the RS(S) year models!). There are a few of them listed right now, I got the Pirate Battery one it has skull and crossbones on the side of the battery. If your Spyder model uses the same battery as an RS or RSS then this battery will fit! There is a metal tension clamp in the back of the battery tray that holds the battery tight (in addition to the rubber strap that secures it in the tray), I had to spread that clamp just a little so the battery would go in all the way so be aware of that!
And it only costs $65 delivered to your door! Pretty easy to install, takes maybe 35 minutes or so.
Wow, just asked my local dealer the cost of a brake flush with abs cycling and was told it’s 4 hours and $650 roughly.. Australian prices.. maybe its BUDS buying time unless I find another way..
Question John how many miles before you check brake pads ?
I checked them before the June trip at about 18000. going to check them again as I do my winter maintenance routine.
@@JohnMiriamsTravelVlog Mine was down to the metal at 19K
My brakes feel spongy, does that mean I have to blead the brakes?
Have you recently done any work on the brakes? added fluid?
@@JohnMiriamsTravelVlog Yes, I did add brake fluid a few weeks ago. Never done anything else before that nor after adding brake fluid. I have a 2011 Spyder RSS SE5...have had it since new...currently only 9000 miles.
Sounds like you may have air in the line, You may need to flush it again, but never let it run low and get air in the line,,, drain some add some, ect
great video John. Have you seen the kit that replaces the mirror clips with super magnets? Seemed like a pretty slick idea. I found the video review on Lamonstergarage.com. They seemed to hold tight up to speeds that I would not want to be going :-)
$110 for the kit is crazy expensive. I've found that any canam upgrades are super costly compared to my yamaha and honda bikes.
just worried about the reported sensor interference.