Fixing a stuck Parking brake on a Can Am Spyder - Carry the tools to save your ride !!
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- čas přidán 16. 07. 2024
- Hey guys,
Truth be told, i really did not feel like making a video today, but the stuck parking brake issue happened again to me, so because it's Sunday and the Shop is closed I took the time to make a short video about how to make a partial fix on the problem.... watch and find out what tools you need to carry with you to save your ride or a friends...
Pierre Poliquin
450-586-9608 info@spydertv.net
www.canamspyderaccessories.com
Salut Pierre, j’ai un RT 2018 35000km et crois le ou non mais vendredi le 17 mai 2024 j’ai eu le même problème et c’est là que ta vidéo m’a été d’une grande utilité, le tout est sous contrôle présentement et j’ai sauvé beaucoup $$$$
Merci mil fois
Pierre, thanks for the video. This happened recently to me about a mile from my house picking up lunch. I watched your video, called my wife, and had her bring me the spring tool and a 12mm wrench. I pulled the spring, loosen the nut, and it disengaged. I have a 2019 Spyder RT Limited with 275 miles on it and this happened. I filed a complaint with the NHTSA Complaint Number: 11338776, so that this issue can be added as a recall. Can-Am needs to address this safety issue and inconvenience. I would encourage more owners to file these complaints. That is the only thing that puts pressure on the manufacturers to recall the issue and have it fixed. Until mine is fixed, I will leave it disassembled and use a makeshift chock.
That's good to know about the NHTSA complaint! It happened to me, on my RT-S SE6, and the dealer said I caused it by dragging the brake on turns! Considering that one has to lift his foot so high to get on the brake pedal, that was obviously bunk but could not be argued. He then charged me something like $150 to 'fix' it, despite the fact I have the 5-year stem-to-stern extended warranty. This, with other issues (such as an air suspension that cycles at red lights), makes me seriously peeved with Bombardier.
Thanks Pierre. This is a chronic issue that BRP should have addressed a long time ago.
Merci Pierre! You saved my life today. Really appreciate you taking the time, especially when you are ticked off wanting to ride, like we all feel when we finally get a chance for some much needed wind therapy!
Thankyou from an Aussie Pierre it has never happened as yet but with your video has given me the answer to fix it.
This totally saved us today! We bought a 2018 spyder RT ltd yesterday and this happened to us today. Thank you for posting this video!
Great info Pierre and thanks for showing us the temporary fix.
Thank you my friend, just added those tools to my kit.
Thank you for taking the time to put this very useful info out there! It is much, much appreciated!!!
So I bought a 2017 Spyder RT6 Manual transmission from an individual. He had the emergency break disengaged. So I inherited his problem.Thankfully he gave me a huge shop manual with it. Guess that should have been a clue. I don't have this fixed yet, but in reading these problems and comments from people I am thinking that low voltage may be causing some of these problems. The first thing I am going to do is buy a trickle charger and put the permanent ends on the battery terminals and keep it plugged in when sitting in the garage. These machines have many switches that depend on proper voltage to operate these switches. These are very sophisticated machines that have a lot of electrical needs to operate correctly. That is where I am going to start, I will see how this progresses, but I think this is the starting point. The trickle charger is about $22. at the parts house. These have always been used for motorcycles because they sit for long periods of time with little use.
This incredible invention saves us the bother of having to pull a lever
This happen to me due to a rat chewing my wiring harness up so I couldn't get it released! Didn't know this was a problem to look out for minus the rats. I had to do this to get the bike towed, it was stuck in garage before I was able to dismantle the parking brake. Good tip Sir for the tool kit.
Thank you for the video, got me moving at a rest stop in Georgia. Seams like my module is bad.
I have a 2016 Can Am Spyder and noticed that the parking brakes system would get stuck every once in a while. Turn the ignition on and listen to the sounds the Spyder makes. It will begin to make some actuator sounds like it's moving a pneumatic system. Then it will go quiet for a few seconds but close to the 20-sec mark after the ignition was turned to on, it will make some more sounds (maybe a pump or something). I wait the whole 20 seconds before I try to release the parking brakes and that seems to help prevent it from getting stuck. I am not an expert on the Spyder system but it seems to me it needs to "prep" itself before it can move the parking brakes.
I have had this happen to me. I have had the parking brake motor replaced early on for a different issue, not holding with enough tension. Then I started having the "failure to release" problem. I would free the cable and take it to the dealer. The dealer response, "We could not replicate the problem." The dealer told me that they must have worked my parking brake a hundred times and no replication of the lock issue. However, they did replace the $17.00 switch when all else failed just to be on the safe side since it is a 65 mile one way trip for me.
It is curious that once the tension was taken off of the parking brake cable, the brake started working properly. I looked at the service manual for adjusting parking brake tension. I thought it to be a bit excessive regarding setting the correct cable tension. I decided to adjust the parking brake cable just to take the slack out of it and not tensioning further as the service procedure outlines. I have tested my adjustment on a steep incline with my trailer attached and my wife onboard. The bike did not move. Since adjusting the brake cable to where I just take the slack out of it, I have not had the parking brake lock up on me. I believe that BRP's adjustment procedure puts too much tension on the parking brake cable and motor and you get the failure to release occasionally. Like I said, once the dealer reset the cable, everything started working properly until the next time it locked up. The parking brake has worked flawlessly for a couple of years since my adjustment. I am not sure if it is just luck, the new switch, or my adjustment, but so far so good. Funny, every time I activate the parking brake, I wonder if it will release. BRP really needs to stop ignoring this problem.
The key, I believe, is to make noise. There has been a pretty big uproar over this issue and I think BRP is starting to wake up, as they replaced my motor. The cable tension idea sounds very interesting, as their idea with starting the engine before releasing the brake was because there might not be enough oomph in the battery to really kick the motor. Hmmm
I had this happen to me several times on my 2018 F3
I took it to my dealer for warranty repair and have had no problems since
Good luck with yours !
Good video - I have that problem, right now on my 2013RT - but knew about this from past experience.
I carry the tools as my RT parking brake also has done this...Thanks for the Video....
Thanks Pierre for the great information. 12mm and spring puller added to tool kit. BTW, you have a beautiful F3.
Great work mate,,,,now I know what to do,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,never happened on my previous RT's or my current F3,but it might! Thanks from OZ.
Thanks, Pierre - that's well worth remembering.
I've just studied my wife's RT so I know what to do. What I can't understand is why you need to remove the spring? Surely that will help release the brake once you stop the cable pulling on that movable arm?
this has happened to me 4-5,6 times, id unhook the battery cable , rehook would usually fix the problem till today, just got back from a weekend trip 450miles, ans it decided to get stuck in in park and wont release, thanks foe for the video , only way i ll be able to get it to the shop.
Thanks !!
I had exactly this issue. I follow the cable through the gear motor. I disassembled the right side panel that cover the side and the fog to get access to this motor. Then I saw some sing of wear on the big gear. So I think those gear are mabe gets stuck with the pressure that pull the break. I put some grease all around the motor gear and no problem until this !
Good luck !
Pierre recently. I had a situation with the back rear brake. The rear brake was installed and actuated but the light kept flashing. There is a mechanism in the back where you can adjust it like you say before that what I did was turn off the bike with the parking break activated let. It beep for about 10 seconds then turn the bike. Off and then wait about 10 seconds and then turn the bike off and that fixed the problem so that's an easy fix for somebody who you know. Don't have to you don't have to get to meet. You can adjust the mechanism till you get back to the house. But the mechanism between the housing with that Spring is held and the back to the mechanism needs tothe roof. If it's too tight that situation is you mentioned in the video will happen
Thank You For This Video! You Are Awesome! Sorry to Hear It Happen To You!
Appreciate the video, I always carry the necessary tools. At my age, crawling around under a Spyder alongside the road is not a desirable option, though. Happened on my 2018 RTL and I had it towed to the dealer. For the tow it did release and keep flashing, as you showed, so it could be loaded on the trailer. The dealer went to BRP and they recommended always starting the engine before releasing the brake. Also, should it lock up but later release and flash (and it will), the light will usually go out in about 30 seconds. It happened to me a couple of more times but released after a few tries. BRP did replace the motor after it repeated and it's been no problem since. Do yourself a favor, though, and always start the engine before releasing the brake.
Merci Pierre ça peut toujours servir a très bientôt 🍻
Great video, Coach Nob mentioned you and to check this video and indeed great info thanks
Second time from me today. Thanks now at least I know how to get it home next time!
This happened to me on my new F3T (less than 1k miles). I was about 100 miles from home. I found some videos on how to release the brake but had no 12mm wrenches. The so called tool kit that comes with the bike will get some serious additions including a couple of 12mm wrenches.
After an hour or so of repeatedly going through the start procedure it finally released.
Thank you!
I would love to see you do this on a F3. I think you’re going to have one more step with an F3 because there is a plastic cover covering that spring area you show and I believe you’ll need a torques screw driver to release the cover. There’s actually two covers in that area the smaller plastic cover actually just pops off but the larger piece I think has a screw holding it but don’t wanna go pulling on anything breaking it. I have an Akrapovič muffler which is a lot longer than the sock muffler and covers up this area where the brake is.
Hey Samuel, let me know if you figure out how to do this, I managed to get those small plastic cover off but not the larger one. #F3-S2015
@@BobCates it has a screw holding it.
THANK YOU
Good video I have been fighting the same problem for about a year.I have been doing the same as your video. Is their some kind of kit out there to install a manual, much more reliable parking brake. Like on the Rykers?
I had to get it tow for that park brake the dealer replaced the park brake motor under the warranty. I had no problems since then . I sold it 🥴
I recommend removing the arm instead. Don’t have to mess with the cable specially no need to adjust the cable. Plus it won’t get wrapped up somewhere. 13mm (older 16mm) wrench for all spyders. Check with your dealer. There might be a recall on those motors.
We did this and it fixed our problem, we were stepping on the brake peddle to set the brake. DON"T do that, it sets it too hard and won't let it release. We live 3 hours from the closest dealer and was told we would have to take it in. Thanks to your post we saved lots of miles and $$$. Love our Spyder!!!!
My 2021 F3T just did this last weekend but brake did not lock up. It stuck me in reverse and would not let me go to 1st. Quick thinking while holding foot on brake turned key off and it went to neutral. From that point I could get back home shifting normal. Still no parking brake and light flashing for the entire 100 miles home. Its in the shop now and waiting on diagnostics.
Just so everyone knows, you need to chock your wheels so when you release that cable that the Spyder don't just roll away. It could easily happen and you are lying on the ground unable to catch it...
yes....good reminder.....lol
I have this problem right now on my 2015 F3. I can leave that cable loose and ride like that to the dealer right? Won’t give any issues?
Where do you get the spring puller? Ty
Merci mon ami j'ai tout compris
Just priced a New Motor $978.00 NZD just for the part ,this part is made in Taiwan
I have a 2011 spyder but e break is not working properly can I still ride. Also on the dash it says Parking Break Failure. Should I worry about that.
What about leaving in gear without the parking brake if on a road trip?
I have a 2010 Spyder RS and I have this exact problem. Is the setup the same? Any idea? Thanks
If the brake light is on and the parking brake is not engaged it could still beep when you turn off the key. That warning beep only lasts 20 seconds, about 20 beeps. Turn off the bike. Let it beep. Wait ten more seconds (30 total). Then turn back on the ignition switch but do not crank the bike. Press down firmly on the brake pedal until you hear the click or for 30 seconds. Turn off the ignition for another 30 seconds. That should clear out the code and allow the light to turn off. Then I think adjusting the brake cable is probably a good idea.
Mr. Withers, You just saved my life!! Had the bike less than 2 days, and the light stayed on even if the brake wasn't. I've been up all night trying to figure out how to reset it. My neighbors weren't too pleased. That beat is reeeally irritating! Thanks again!
The spring is there to return the arm to the position where the brake isn't engaged... Not sure why you had to remove it unless moving the cable makes the arm too loose and the spring would fall out. Another reason I like to have manual transmission.
I have an issue with brake failure, i replaced brake pads on front and rear, bleed the breaks and still my brake light stays on and i still have a brake failure message. what do i do next?
And after all that, how can you put your brakes back on?
You have to have your foot on the brake. LOL
Do they make a lift just for Spyders?
😯💩 thanks for sharing. Will carry those tools. 😎🏍💨💨💨💨💨👍🏻🇨🇦🥂from bc
It's the cable
Where did you get the phone holder and ball mount sir? Thanks
Warisgreat www.canamspyderaccessories.com
It happened to me more than 8 times since 2019🥺
Just had the electric motor replaced on my 2015 rts. $ 184.99 dollars (u.s.)
You still alive and riding a spyder still?
Where are you located
Lavaltrie Quebec Canada
P Dear I recently had
Has this issue been sorted by Can Am? Weird that they would think an electronic parking brake was a good idea. Just seems un necessary .And obviously something else to go wrong. Seems like the Ryker is a simpler design. And 1/2 the price. Just a comment from a guy on the outside looking in. At least for the moment.
BRP doesn’t fix anything
Thank you!
Good video I have been fighting the same problem for about a year.I have been doing the same as your video. Is their some kind of kit out there to install a manual, much more reliable parking brake. Like on the Rykers?