1st thing i do when i break down is pull out my phone to call someone. This guy is so boss that he takes a video of how to get home using bottled water.
I was wondering why he did the video in a scary environment. But then I got it. He didn’t want to have to tow it and he didn’t want to have to get a room for the night. So like a boss he made the best of a bad situation and taught me a grip.
At idle these cars heat up 10 degrees per minute but if your driving on the hwy they can heat up 30 degrees a minute with a stuck thermostat so normally driving at 200 degrees that is the line just before the halfway mark that only gives you two minutes of driving before hitting 260 at that temp this engine will have a blown head gasket because the aluminum head will be warped. I recently fixed a VW Jetta the guy hit a racoon in the middle of nowhere drove for about 45 minutes with no coolant on his 1.4 Turbo and after fixing the car the engine had NO damage, the turbo boost was so smooth with no lag nothing like the Chevy junk.
The valve has a slot on the side to allow bleeding without having to unscrew it all the way out, just turn it a few times and you'll hear it start to vent.
@elijahofosu4454 exactly how it is with my 2014 cruze. I've called for 4 tows in the past month! I even got kicked off my insurance for using the roadside too much! I've replaced everything besides the engine itself and now the coolant is intensely bubbling .. I've bled the system twice no luck f this car 😭
That's because these have an electric thermostat on them that when they fail they stay shot which causes the water pump seal to leak or the thermostat housing to leak and overheating because circulation has stopped cars came for years with automatic thermostats these ones are electric
I honestly recommend having at least 2 gallons of water, a jack, a set of tools, and a really nice jumper box preferably viking 1700 amp (harbor freight)
This bloke doesn't know it yet .... but he just saved my mafking hynnie hole 😂 ... I did an engine flush and couldn't find the bleeder pop until now ...... THANK YOU KING ❤
My girlfriend has a 2011 Cruz. She bought it for $6k (with 100k miles) because she needed a beater to drive back and forth to work, which is usually at least an hours drive. It started having over heating issues within a few months, which turned out to be a water pump, and BTW you are not changing a water pump in the is car on the side of the road, no way no how............. But she had the water pump replaced to the tune of like $2k, and within a few days coolant leaks sprang up. I replaced some of the hoses, on the side of the road, only to find the rear coolant housing, which is plastic, had cracked where the hose attaches. I was able to rig it good enough to get home, and replaced it with an aftermarket part that was aluminum. There were also oil and water leaks on hoses and tubes that connect to the turbo. After replacing all those hoses, there was still a problem and I wound up buying an aftermarket turbo and having that installed. The car ran ok for a few months, but now there's this boiling coolant in the reservoir but the temp is normal. I performed a combustion test last summer to check for a heat gasket issue, but it was negative, but I'm going to do another one this morning, but first I'm going to do the air bleeding that you did here, that's if her car has the bleeding screw this car has. If todays combustion test is negative again, then I'm going replace the coolant reservoir as I saw a video where that was the problem............
Check where the bigger hose goes into the reservoir tank if you tap the gas pedal and see bubbles going into the tank you have at least a blown head gasket. If it starts a little hard but starts that's water on the piston splashing up on the spark plug, You can try leaving the tank cap loose and keeping an eye on the level to get by for a while. Leaving the cap loose will help keep the pressure down so it doesn't leak in the cylinder.
Please ensure you do what you can to protect yourself AND your car's electrical components, hoses/belts from coolant. Will lead to deterioration/damage over time. A car is a big investment. Ensure you do your best to take care of it so it will provide you with the reliability you need for you/family. Take care folks!
Had a thermostat sticking and leaking housing. Replaced and bled the system. Everything seemed fine. Let it run for 30min with no issues. Get 3miles down the road and the temp spiked suddenly. Guess there is alot of air left in mine. Lol
@@christopherparsons6849 no unfortunately. Seems the head is blown. When I called THE place in my area for GM products I was told that I was lucky to have gotten 122k out of the engine to begin with. He also said it would cost me more than the car is worth to fix it... So its currently parked and bought another A to B car cheaper than the fix would have cost.
I’ve changed the water pump thermostat head gaskets and still over heats but when I turn the heater on blast it cools down while driving when I’m parked and idle never over heats only when I’m driving and tips
Did somebody put in stop leak? could have restricted air through radiator, is fan motor working? It is a 3 speed fan and sometimes the fan resistor go out that is not visible but part of the fan plug.
It kept leaking coolant at this point I had to not only add coolant but purge the system to keep it from overheating The thermostat housing can leak also the hoses can be frail and leak just a little bit at a time
@@ferenzi7741I've been trying to find my leak. Now I just replaced a hose that busted last week. Filled coolant. Drove to work lost coolant. Wondering of I didn't fill it correctly. Need to try again and bleed it.
@@jbuck1975 when you fill it up make sure your car is on level ground. You can also have it idling when you feel it with the bleed screw out keep filling it until it comes out make sure you put the heat on max so it goes through that system as well once that is finished you can turn the car off keep filling it till it comes out though that purge hole. You will either be getting that fluid in your cylinders if you have a bad head gasket or it could mix with your oil check your oil for any watery material in your oil cap where you fill your oil
@@Gael-ru9lwif it mixes, take your spark plugs out and look inside the engine if there is water you need a new head gasket, valve seals and resurface head.
I have a 2014 Cruze with 1.4L , 185,000 miles. Other than the check engine light. The Cruze run very good. I’m getting a P0420 check engine light now. I replaced the O2 sensor downstream. The check engine light came back. Next I tried 1 gallon of Lacquer Thinner in a Half a gallon of gas. That did make the check engine light go out. But it came back around 485 miles later. I will try to add a Fouler to the O2 downstream sensor next. Update Fouler didn’t work. I will probably have to replace to the catalytic converter next. Update : 2023 I didn’t replace the Catalytic converter. I want to try the easiest thing first. I have replaced both O2 Sensors and i cleared all the errors. The O2 sensors fixed my P0420 error. It has been 5 months and 4,500 miles. The error has NOT come back for me. Its fixed. I used the Denso O2 Sensors.
@@ferenzi7741 Are you saying the catalytic converter gets clogged up from low quality gas. I saw some CZcams video saying to clean the catalytic converter. Remove and soak in a degreaser over night. If that doesn’t work than I may have to replace it.
I had the same problem forever, I tried all those things... turns out the clamp between the cat and the exhaust was not tight, in fact I could always see heat ripples coming out of my engine but didn't know why... even with caps on the O2 sensors it wouldn't stop the code, but sprayed the cold engine with soapy water and found it was leaking there and tightened it up, closed up the system and then it passed inspection
What year is your cruze? I have a 2014 cruze ltz, nothing but problems since 6 months in, have replaced absolutely everything, something's 2x over. My huge issue is the coolant system, has been replaced, but still the overflow tank keeps running dry, replaced all hoses, cant find visible leaks. I wanted to know as im about to tackle this project myself, i have the dex cool 50|50, my coolant tank has just a puddle inside, do i fill the tank with the coolant and then take off the bleeder screw? Im trying to know the exact steps to take so i dont need to bring it back to mechanic. Thanks so much in advance if you or anyone can help! Great video btw!
@@lisalloydstrobel8024 of course, and please remember to only unscrew the overflow tanks cap when the engine has cooled off. The cooling system is under pressure when the engine is hot and can spray coolant on you at boiling temperatures. Good luck 👍
@@kyotodreams3306 oh I am definitely good when it comes to making sure the car is cool, I wait for 2 days, I always have my projects well planned out. I sometimes however run into an issue when I need to know the exact steps to take and all I need is one little detail left out and I stress, I just want to do it right the first time. I've read and watched so many videos and read the comments to get alot of my info. You tube is awesome, I had one of my two toilet's not working for 2.5 years, I finally looked up on you tube and within 3 days, I replaced the whole inside of my tank. Up and running. So I figured, if at my age, I can fix a toilet, then I think I can fix almost anything, ( hopefully). Great advise on this app. Thanks again for your help! 😊
It is very possible to get a blown head gasket if it overheats too much Best way to check if it has a blown head gasket is to do what I did in the video to make sure it has enough fluid and to see if it gets hot again you can also check in your oil for a coolant blue devil doesn't always work especially in newer cars but it's better than nothing
Get your spark plugs out and see if there's water on your engine or do a pressure test with a special tool. Do not use any gasket sealer that will clog the radiators on new vehicles.
@@fideldelira not 235f, your fan might be broken or K1 relay problem. K1 relay starts the fan at around 210-15f at low speed 6 volts, k2 at 235f at high speed 12 volts.
@olegearhead2483 I'm guessing you're being sarcastic but It's not a break line... It doesn't just cease to work if there's a little air in the system... And since this car the reservoir is actually above the bleeder.. You don't even need to run the car for it to bleed. Itself most of the way It sounds like you haven't actually looked this up before.
Just throw in Dexcool is filled with assumption. Full strength? The GM service information says you can use potable water (water safe for drinking) in the Cruze cooling system. In addition, there are affordable instruments that test coolant, either by density or refraction and these devices will indicate the estimated boiling point and freezing point of the cooling solution.
@@RwP223 Dexcool comes pre-mixed, so no need to dilute. Using water only is for emergency situations. Otherwise, your entire cooling system will degrade over time, not to mention if the weather goes below freezing. Then you have real problems
@@fredmertz8538 AC Delco dexcool also comes full strength, equivalent brands call it a "concentrate". As my own mechanic, I would help the customer by checking the coolant capability with a coolant tester and then siphon the bottle and fill it with full strength and run the Cruze 1.4 (which circulates coolant idling) and recheck it, then test drive, and recheck it and SHIP IT.
Made a 4-hour drive afterwards drove great once the system is blood and once I can get home if it doesn't go below freezing I can drain the water and put coolant in
Has a lot to do with how the previous owner took care of it the previous owner I got it from did no maintenance to it these engines are very delicate if the maintenance isn't done on time and just somewhat late it can really mess it up later especially if it overheats a little bit
I have a 6-speed version. Tuned with all the bolt ons at 22k miles, maxed out the turbo, been spraying water/methanol also on boost always. I race this car often autocross, has sticky tires. When I'm racing on the street or track, I have no care for the cars health, just care about going as fast as possible (driving a slow car fast is a riot). It now has 115k miles, and I've only replaced the alternator (because autozone wouldn't continue warrantying batteries because I killed them yearly) and front brakes. Stock intake, stock PCV, stock ball joints & rod ends. All electronics work. Why is this?!? I have a 99 Chevy Silverado with stock engine and trans, stock ball joints and rod ends, stock rear diff, it doesn't burn oil. I've resealed the engine (front and rear seals, oil pan) and did the reaction sunshell at 140k miles. It now has 196k miles and driving it daily. Then there is this Pontiac Slostice I got, heavily modified (500 bhp) and it has never let me stranded. Should I go on about my GMC Cube Van, or the 96' Blazer that was purchased new and is still in the family? Looks like the common denominator is the person responsible for driving and maintaining the vehicle. Like all machines, they wear out and wear accelerates with neglect and abuse. Cruze vehicles aren't junk relatively speaking, the owners are junk.
Bought mine new in 2012, 170,000 plus miles still run great only issue in 10 years, replaced the alternator and worn coolant hoses. I wouldn't be worried about taking it across Country. Properly maintained they'll keep on going.
It's a machine like any other vehicle, you cannot escape maintenance and repair. Often it is owner neglect, and the owners may falsely believe they are keeping the car tip top. I'm saddened to say, a lot of mechanics and shops are hacks and will screw you over. I am my own mechanic, I pay for my cars and want them to last forever is the goal, you have no idea how to define neglect in automotive maintenance. Example, I spray my underbody and underbody fasteners with fluid film annually, suspension bolts, fuel and brake lines and mounting locations, bleeder screws, fuel tank straps, etc. etc. etc. all the crap that gets rusted after these salty winters. In addition, when I got the car I truck-bed liner epoxy coated my rockers and inside the wheel arch lips where the plastic wheelhouse liners rub against, leading to rust. All cars are shite when you don't maintain them. All cars are decent when you do maintain them, unless it's a Cryslur.
@@RwP223 The car is OK its the piece of shit 1.4 ecotec engine , too much plastic , a faulty pvc system in the intake ,that leads to diaphram failing in valve cover, plastic coolant housing drivers side ( now available in cast alum aftermarket) plastic thermostat housing (again now available in alum) failing coil packs most likely because the engine runs at 220 degrees, failing transmission cooler lines (leaking) Again PVC system has a aftermarket mod bringing it to outside , in colder climates water freezes in tube from intake to turbo (oil catch can fixes). Turbo fails if oil feed plugs (common from heat) you need to change out at 60k to save turbo Cam solinoids leak, front timing cover and crank seal will leak, valve cover will leak, oil cooler will leak . New seals need for all at 60k miles . I have bought GM cars going back 45 years and I'm a mechanic ,this is the worst cheapest highest maintenance engine GM has ever made a dealerships dream. The only good I can say about it ,it gets excellent gas mileage when working
@@Mechone11 I own a 2013, purchased in 2015 with 20k miles, I max tuned it and added water meth, 40lb injectors and every zzp bolt on. Nothing broke until 115,000 miles, pcv finally went, an intake and valve cover is so easy and cheap, you're basically a bitch if you cant do it in 2 hrs. This car was 100% abused and beat on, 15 autocross events with 200 tw tires, and I am absolutely trying to destroy the car, one of the top class racers borrowed my car once and I beat his times still. Stock Clutch, 120k miles now, totally abused and beat on, stock non performance economy car clutch survived and still going, with a fully tuned car. Tell me how this is a POS? Every single electronic device in the car works, every light bulb is stock, ZERO dtcs except O2s that I masked out. Why is it that every machine I touch last forever, why do i have a 1999 silverado my bro bought in 2001, with all stock powertrain, stock ball joints and tierods.
@@Mechone11 omg you got to get out more. The 1.4 is an iron block, its an extremely stout engine. Muh PCV is such a lame cop out. Why dont you go look at Ford cars maybe youll have a point.
1st thing i do when i break down is pull out my phone to call someone. This guy is so boss that he takes a video of how to get home using bottled water.
Love the comment! Thank you for the compliment
I was wondering why he did the video in a scary environment. But then I got it. He didn’t want to have to tow it and he didn’t want to have to get a room for the night. So like a boss he made the best of a bad situation and taught me a grip.
Definitely not a long-term solution, but it's enough to hobble home and do a flush.
@@GamerKiwià flush won't help. That many letters is half change🤣🤣🤣
A beater is 6 grand😮😮
This was the most helpful video I've seen thank you so so much God bless you
Glad it helped you!
Ikr right easy and better thsn the other videos
This video was so tremendously helpful
At idle these cars heat up 10 degrees per minute but if your driving on the hwy they can heat up 30 degrees a minute with a stuck thermostat so normally driving at 200 degrees that is the line just before the halfway mark that only gives you two minutes of driving before hitting 260 at that temp this engine will have a blown head gasket because the aluminum head will be warped. I recently fixed a VW Jetta the guy hit a racoon in the middle of nowhere drove for about 45 minutes with no coolant on his 1.4 Turbo and after fixing the car the engine had NO damage, the turbo boost was so smooth with no lag nothing like the Chevy junk.
Think it worked for me man 🤞🏾thanks a million
The valve has a slot on the side to allow bleeding without having to unscrew it all the way out, just turn it a few times and you'll hear it start to vent.
Hi, I'm curious are you referring to the one at the bottom of the radiator?
On a Chevy Trax too. Cruz are compatible
My Cruze was overheating after i changed out a bad thermostat. Burping the coolant didn't seem to get all of the air out. This solved my problem.
Very happy that it helped you!
After the overheating?? Did you have a blown head gasket issue?
I have changed almost everything yet the car can't drive for even 30 minutes without overheating. Any help will be great from any of you.
@elijahofosu4454 exactly how it is with my 2014 cruze. I've called for 4 tows in the past month! I even got kicked off my insurance for using the roadside too much! I've replaced everything besides the engine itself and now the coolant is intensely bubbling .. I've bled the system twice no luck f this car 😭
@@brandypilcher846Did you replace the handle to the antifreeze reservoir it says to do so in the manual when you add antifreeze.
my car is having same issue. thanks for the videos
That's because these have an electric thermostat on them that when they fail they stay shot which causes the water pump seal to leak or the thermostat housing to leak and overheating because circulation has stopped cars came for years with automatic thermostats these ones are electric
A great video...cruze owner who needs your help until he can afford better
i was just in the same exact position but the hose was leaking...but this helps a lot to when i go to bleed it after i replace it
So if nothing else always keep a case of water in your car
Excellent video bro
Bought mine brand new in2014 for14000 150⁰000 miles on so far no problems
Yes bro this was helpful thanks
Good thing you had that pack of water That's awesome
I honestly recommend having at least 2 gallons of water, a jack, a set of tools, and a really nice jumper box preferably viking 1700 amp (harbor freight)
@@ferenzi7741 especially when driving a cruise, All jokes aside I do agree with that
@@unorthodoxridez merry Christmas!
@@ferenzi7741 and to you as well
This helped me big time thanks bro
This bloke doesn't know it yet .... but he just saved my mafking hynnie hole 😂 ... I did an engine flush and couldn't find the bleeder pop until now ...... THANK YOU KING ❤
Very helpful
My girlfriend has a 2011 Cruz. She bought it for $6k (with 100k miles) because she needed a beater to drive back and forth to work, which is usually at least an hours drive. It started having over heating issues within a few months, which turned out to be a water pump, and BTW you are not changing a water pump in the is car on the side of the road, no way no how............. But she had the water pump replaced to the tune of like $2k, and within a few days coolant leaks sprang up. I replaced some of the hoses, on the side of the road, only to find the rear coolant housing, which is plastic, had cracked where the hose attaches. I was able to rig it good enough to get home, and replaced it with an aftermarket part that was aluminum. There were also oil and water leaks on hoses and tubes that connect to the turbo. After replacing all those hoses, there was still a problem and I wound up buying an aftermarket turbo and having that installed. The car ran ok for a few months, but now there's this boiling coolant in the reservoir but the temp is normal. I performed a combustion test last summer to check for a heat gasket issue, but it was negative, but I'm going to do another one this morning, but first I'm going to do the air bleeding that you did here, that's if her car has the bleeding screw this car has. If todays combustion test is negative again, then I'm going replace the coolant reservoir as I saw a video where that was the problem............
Check where the bigger hose goes into the reservoir tank if you tap the gas pedal and see bubbles going into the tank you have at least a blown head gasket. If it starts a little hard but starts that's water on the piston splashing up on the spark plug, You can try leaving the tank cap loose and keeping an eye on the level to get by for a while. Leaving the cap loose will help keep the pressure down so it doesn't leak in the cylinder.
Please ensure you do what you can to protect yourself AND your car's electrical components, hoses/belts from coolant. Will lead to deterioration/damage over time. A car is a big investment. Ensure you do your best to take care of it so it will provide you with the reliability you need for you/family. Take care folks!
Thanks
Why DEX Cool? Over other 50/50 coolants
So my tubes keep coming off when I drive and when I refilled the coolant it was like bubbling and almost over flowing not sure why that is
Have the same issue with my trax atm. Always seems to be friggon cold when it happens (almost yearly) 😢
Thanks my car doing this
I hope it helped! These cars can be tricky
Had a thermostat sticking and leaking housing. Replaced and bled the system. Everything seemed fine. Let it run for 30min with no issues. Get 3miles down the road and the temp spiked suddenly. Guess there is alot of air left in mine. Lol
Then what happened? Fr. 😂 Same exact thing just happened to me. Did getting the rest of the air out fix the problem for good?
@@christopherparsons6849 no unfortunately. Seems the head is blown. When I called THE place in my area for GM products I was told that I was lucky to have gotten 122k out of the engine to begin with. He also said it would cost me more than the car is worth to fix it... So its currently parked and bought another A to B car cheaper than the fix would have cost.
@@caboosette1869 I'm sorry you had a lot of problems I hope you got a better car
@@caboosette1869 i got a used engine for 1750, but we're up to $5200 in repair bills now
What cruze do you have? Because my plug is under the car and its a pain to get to.
I have a 2012 1.8 petrol
Thanks for the information
You Don"t Have To Have The Car Running When You Do This?
Can you pull out the bleeder when if it’s overheating or should I wait for it too cool down first than do it?
Haha
Wait
I’ve changed the water pump thermostat head gaskets and still over heats but when I turn the heater on blast it cools down while driving when I’m parked and idle never over heats only when I’m driving and tips
Did somebody put in stop leak? could have restricted air through radiator, is fan motor working? It is a 3 speed fan and sometimes the fan resistor go out that is not visible but part of the fan plug.
What is the gauge suppossed to be on? What did you do to fix the issue? Change the thermostat
It kept leaking coolant at this point I had to not only add coolant but purge the system to keep it from overheating The thermostat housing can leak also the hoses can be frail and leak just a little bit at a time
@@ferenzi7741I've been trying to find my leak. Now I just replaced a hose that busted last week. Filled coolant. Drove to work lost coolant. Wondering of I didn't fill it correctly. Need to try again and bleed it.
@@jbuck1975 when you fill it up make sure your car is on level ground. You can also have it idling when you feel it with the bleed screw out keep filling it until it comes out make sure you put the heat on max so it goes through that system as well once that is finished you can turn the car off keep filling it till it comes out though that purge hole. You will either be getting that fluid in your cylinders if you have a bad head gasket or it could mix with your oil check your oil for any watery material in your oil cap where you fill your oil
What if it does mix with the oil?
@@Gael-ru9lwif it mixes, take your spark plugs out and look inside the engine if there is water you need a new head gasket, valve seals and resurface head.
My car also coming this problem
Missing the retaining clip on the reservoir tank so you're lucky the reservoir isn't cracked from it bumping around .
Why the check engine still on? I think there is a problem.
I see a small drip (leak) coming from the back of the engine on top on the passenger side. Im not sure what it is. Any suggestions?
Water pump?
My car is overheating right now. I have a leak in my radiator line. . The fan keeps blowing like crazy. . I'm on the side of the highway right now. .
I have a 2014 Cruze with 1.4L , 185,000 miles. Other than the check engine light. The Cruze run very good.
I’m getting a P0420 check engine light now. I replaced the O2 sensor downstream. The check engine light came back. Next I tried 1 gallon of Lacquer Thinner in a Half a gallon of gas.
That did make the check engine light go out. But it came back around 485 miles later. I will try to add a Fouler to the O2 downstream sensor next.
Update
Fouler didn’t work. I will probably have to replace to the catalytic converter next.
Update : 2023
I didn’t replace the Catalytic converter. I want to try the easiest thing first.
I have replaced both O2 Sensors and i cleared all the errors. The O2 sensors fixed my P0420 error. It has been 5 months and 4,500 miles. The error has NOT come back for me. Its fixed. I used the Denso O2 Sensors.
They do clog up quite easily unfortunately especially with modern fuel being so low quality. I'd recommend seafoaming each full tank of gas
@@ferenzi7741 Are you saying the catalytic converter gets clogged up from low quality gas. I saw some CZcams video saying to clean the catalytic converter. Remove and soak in a degreaser over night. If that doesn’t work than I may have to replace it.
I am at 396k just now starting to have a transmission issue
I had the same problem forever, I tried all those things... turns out the clamp between the cat and the exhaust was not tight, in fact I could always see heat ripples coming out of my engine but didn't know why... even with caps on the O2 sensors it wouldn't stop the code, but sprayed the cold engine with soapy water and found it was leaking there and tightened it up, closed up the system and then it passed inspection
I have a serious question. You can really drive 2 hrs on just water.
You can drive for years if it doesn't freeze or corrode
What year is that Cruze?
When you run it at 2500 rpms with heater on to bleed the air out.but you
Screwed the bleeder valve back in
It still bleeds air with bleeder back in?
This car yes.
What year is your cruze? I have a 2014 cruze ltz, nothing but problems since 6 months in, have replaced absolutely everything, something's 2x over. My huge issue is the coolant system, has been replaced, but still the overflow tank keeps running dry, replaced all hoses, cant find visible leaks. I wanted to know as im about to tackle this project myself, i have the dex cool 50|50, my coolant tank has just a puddle inside, do i fill the tank with the coolant and then take off the bleeder screw? Im trying to know the exact steps to take so i dont need to bring it back to mechanic. Thanks so much in advance if you or anyone can help! Great video btw!
Take screw off first, then fill overflow tank until coolant comes out of where the screw goes, put screw back on. This gets air out of the system.
@@kyotodreams3306 thank you so much for replying and giving me excellent directions about the bleeder screw. Have a great night!
@@lisalloydstrobel8024 of course, and please remember to only unscrew the overflow tanks cap when the engine has cooled off. The cooling system is under pressure when the engine is hot and can spray coolant on you at boiling temperatures. Good luck 👍
@@kyotodreams3306 oh I am definitely good when it comes to making sure the car is cool, I wait for 2 days, I always have my projects well planned out. I sometimes however run into an issue when I need to know the exact steps to take and all I need is one little detail left out and I stress, I just want to do it right the first time. I've read and watched so many videos and read the comments to get alot of my info. You tube is awesome, I had one of my two toilet's not working for 2.5 years, I finally looked up on you tube and within 3 days, I replaced the whole inside of my tank. Up and running. So I figured, if at my age, I can fix a toilet, then I think I can fix almost anything, ( hopefully). Great advise on this app. Thanks again for your help! 😊
That platic bleeding screw will fall apart if you never loosen it in years. You better replace it with metal one (compatible with bmw screws)
Your heat or your ac to max?
The heat, the AC will only make it worse.
Has anyone had a blow head gasket happen after the overheating??? If so… did someone use blue devil head gaskets repair?
It is very possible to get a blown head gasket if it overheats too much Best way to check if it has a blown head gasket is to do what I did in the video to make sure it has enough fluid and to see if it gets hot again you can also check in your oil for a coolant blue devil doesn't always work especially in newer cars but it's better than nothing
Get your spark plugs out and see if there's water on your engine or do a pressure test with a special tool. Do not use any gasket sealer that will clog the radiators on new vehicles.
hi, what temperature the fan should be start to?
235
Around 210f, should not go above 215f.
@@fideldelira not 235f, your fan might be broken or K1 relay problem. K1 relay starts the fan at around 210-15f at low speed 6 volts, k2 at 235f at high speed 12 volts.
Sometimes, it start from thermostat failure or radiator cap failure.
I didn't replace mine is it needed?
@@user-xx2xd9bh3p no if those work normal
Or you take off upper coolant hose and do same think
I got to say, this is likely not necessary, if you give it time the air comes out and it bleeds itself
Your probably right. GM just put the bleeder in to see if folks would waste their time messing with it.
@olegearhead2483 I'm guessing you're being sarcastic but It's not a break line... It doesn't just cease to work if there's a little air in the system...
And since this car the reservoir is actually above the bleeder.. You don't even need to run the car for it to bleed. Itself most of the way
It sounds like you haven't actually looked this up before.
one thing that sucks about the cruze...is it has a electric thermostat...when they fail they stay closed
Another way to force customers to bring it to shop
Nice tip on bleeding the cooling system, but use Dexcool instead of water next time.
He is stranded
Just throw in Dexcool is filled with assumption. Full strength? The GM service information says you can use potable water (water safe for drinking) in the Cruze cooling system. In addition, there are affordable instruments that test coolant, either by density or refraction and these devices will indicate the estimated boiling point and freezing point of the cooling solution.
@@RwP223 Dexcool comes pre-mixed, so no need to dilute. Using water only is for emergency situations. Otherwise, your entire cooling system will degrade over time, not to mention if the weather goes below freezing. Then you have real problems
@@fredmertz8538 AC Delco dexcool also comes full strength, equivalent brands call it a "concentrate". As my own mechanic, I would help the customer by checking the coolant capability with a coolant tester and then siphon the bottle and fill it with full strength and run the Cruze 1.4 (which circulates coolant idling) and recheck it, then test drive, and recheck it and SHIP IT.
@@fredmertz8538 he literally said hes just using water to get himself home. You rather him fill it with gravel?
Never buy a turbo car you will always have problems
Chevy Cruze is the worst car in the world.
I bought one a few years ago, and I swore never to make that mistake again.
Well well well, guess who has a Chevy without a temperature gauge.
You can add one or see it under a obd hook up
As soon ass u turned on the car, shouldve took off to get somewhere not on the highway.
Made a 4-hour drive afterwards drove great once the system is blood and once I can get home if it doesn't go below freezing I can drain the water and put coolant in
You have another problem your check engine light is on, probably coolant temperature sensor bad
LMAO! Pretty unreliable. I have 220,400 miles on mine and only replaced the water pump. Seems pretty reliable to me.
Has a lot to do with how the previous owner took care of it the previous owner I got it from did no maintenance to it these engines are very delicate if the maintenance isn't done on time and just somewhat late it can really mess it up later especially if it overheats a little bit
The Cruze has a low coolant warning. You shouldn't get into that problem in the first place.
That happened to me last night. It took me 4 hours to get to my house. Stupid Chevy car waste of money
Cruze vehicles are junk brother.
I have two of them. Use full synthetic oil and maintain the cooling system and they will give you no trouble.
@@fredmertz8538 exactly mying drives great 👍
I have a 6-speed version. Tuned with all the bolt ons at 22k miles, maxed out the turbo, been spraying water/methanol also on boost always. I race this car often autocross, has sticky tires. When I'm racing on the street or track, I have no care for the cars health, just care about going as fast as possible (driving a slow car fast is a riot). It now has 115k miles, and I've only replaced the alternator (because autozone wouldn't continue warrantying batteries because I killed them yearly) and front brakes. Stock intake, stock PCV, stock ball joints & rod ends. All electronics work.
Why is this?!? I have a 99 Chevy Silverado with stock engine and trans, stock ball joints and rod ends, stock rear diff, it doesn't burn oil. I've resealed the engine (front and rear seals, oil pan) and did the reaction sunshell at 140k miles. It now has 196k miles and driving it daily.
Then there is this Pontiac Slostice I got, heavily modified (500 bhp) and it has never let me stranded.
Should I go on about my GMC Cube Van, or the 96' Blazer that was purchased new and is still in the family?
Looks like the common denominator is the person responsible for driving and maintaining the vehicle. Like all machines, they wear out and wear accelerates with neglect and abuse.
Cruze vehicles aren't junk relatively speaking, the owners are junk.
@@fredmertz8538 my 2017 has given me no issues either, bought it with only 4-miles.. Mobil 1 oil changes, no issues... 38k miles
Bought mine new in 2012, 170,000 plus miles still run great only issue in 10 years, replaced the alternator and worn coolant hoses. I wouldn't be worried about taking it across Country. Properly maintained they'll keep on going.
Who does a Video on the side of the expressway ?tells me a lot about how your car is maintained which is why your stranded !
You are supposed to use distilled water with antifreeze full strenth.
Ya this car is a piece of crap, selling mine
Me too honey you ain't lied. Every time you look around something with cooling system one or the other. Piece of s***
It's a machine like any other vehicle, you cannot escape maintenance and repair. Often it is owner neglect, and the owners may falsely believe they are keeping the car tip top. I'm saddened to say, a lot of mechanics and shops are hacks and will screw you over. I am my own mechanic, I pay for my cars and want them to last forever is the goal, you have no idea how to define neglect in automotive maintenance. Example, I spray my underbody and underbody fasteners with fluid film annually, suspension bolts, fuel and brake lines and mounting locations, bleeder screws, fuel tank straps, etc. etc. etc. all the crap that gets rusted after these salty winters. In addition, when I got the car I truck-bed liner epoxy coated my rockers and inside the wheel arch lips where the plastic wheelhouse liners rub against, leading to rust.
All cars are shite when you don't maintain them. All cars are decent when you do maintain them, unless it's a Cryslur.
@@RwP223 The car is OK its the piece of shit 1.4 ecotec engine , too much plastic , a faulty pvc system in the intake ,that leads to diaphram failing in valve cover, plastic coolant housing drivers side ( now available in cast alum aftermarket) plastic thermostat housing (again now available in alum) failing coil packs most likely because the engine runs at 220 degrees, failing transmission cooler lines (leaking) Again PVC system has a aftermarket mod bringing it to outside , in colder climates water freezes in tube from intake to turbo (oil catch can fixes). Turbo fails if oil feed plugs (common from heat) you need to change out at 60k to save turbo Cam solinoids leak, front timing cover and crank seal will leak, valve cover will leak, oil cooler will leak . New seals need for all at 60k miles . I have bought GM cars going back 45 years and I'm a mechanic ,this is the worst cheapest highest maintenance engine GM has ever made a dealerships dream. The only good I can say about it ,it gets excellent gas mileage when working
@@Mechone11 I own a 2013, purchased in 2015 with 20k miles, I max tuned it and added water meth, 40lb injectors and every zzp bolt on. Nothing broke until 115,000 miles, pcv finally went, an intake and valve cover is so easy and cheap, you're basically a bitch if you cant do it in 2 hrs.
This car was 100% abused and beat on, 15 autocross events with 200 tw tires, and I am absolutely trying to destroy the car, one of the top class racers borrowed my car once and I beat his times still.
Stock Clutch, 120k miles now, totally abused and beat on, stock non performance economy car clutch survived and still going, with a fully tuned car.
Tell me how this is a POS? Every single electronic device in the car works, every light bulb is stock, ZERO dtcs except O2s that I masked out.
Why is it that every machine I touch last forever, why do i have a 1999 silverado my bro bought in 2001, with all stock powertrain, stock ball joints and tierods.
@@Mechone11 omg you got to get out more. The 1.4 is an iron block, its an extremely stout engine. Muh PCV is such a lame cop out. Why dont you go look at Ford cars maybe youll have a point.
All Chevy are junk