Taking My SLEEPER VOLVO Back To The Dyno! Will It Make 1000HP?
Vložit
- čas přidán 17. 06. 2024
- In this video we take the Sleeper Volvo BACK to the dyno with the new turbo, e85, and upgraded supporting mods.
SUPPORT ME HERE! ► / gingium
OTHER VIDS!!
Quick Builds► • Quick Builds
Drift Truck ► • Drift Truck
Rally Miata ► • Project Rally Miata
Eclipse ► • 1G Eclipse
LS Volvo ► • Volvo Sleeper
BE MY FRIEND!!!!
Follow me on Twitter ► / _gingium_
Follow me on Instagram ► / gingium
MY RECORDING EQUIPMENT!!
Camera ► amzn.to/3lVq7J9
Lens ► amzn.to/3yhf168
Microphone ► amzn.to/3q4pv5x
Tripod ► amzn.to/3pOGiZR
Carry Bag ► amzn.to/3rV50uz
SD Card ► amzn.to/3lQdv68
MY FABRICATION/MECHANIC EQUIPMENT!!
Welders & Supplies ► www.usaweld.com/?Click=67190 (code: GINGIUM)
CNC Plasma Table ► store.langmuirsystems.com?aff=23 (code: GINGIUM)
Tube Bender ► www.roguefab.com/ (code: gingium25) - Auta a dopravní prostředky
Imagine a hubcap flying off full rip on the dyno 😂
It be Twister all over again
Imagine it flying off during a 10 second 1/4 mile pass 😮
@@_Gingium_ …………
@@_Gingium_ what kind of flex is that and why do I have an erection?
@@_Gingium_Imagine it flying off during a 1000bhp pull on the dyno… I’ll see myself out.
your boost gauge is probably at the intake? put another gauge before the intercooler and see if there is a pressure difference across the intercooler. that will tell you if it is limiting flow.
Good idea!!!
That’s a good one.
Damn I came to say this! I did the same thing and the difference was huge. Changed piping size and intercooler and the engine came to life
It can also be a valve float. The valve springs might be to week to handle boost at higher RPM
They’d be able to hear that though
The engine has all the supporting mods to make more power. Upgraded springs, big turbo cam, & fancy bolts lol
@@_Gingium_ exactly. You’re set. Just need to throw a 1000 hp capable intercooler on to make 1000 Hp lol
@@loweredyote8416 Yup, I think so
@@_Gingium_ksr did a video where valve floor caused similar dyno curve issues with soccer mom. They installed btrs valve springs and shaft rocker kit. Soccer mom ripped to 8700.
Always happy when we get a new volvo (tank) video. As a swede and a volvo owner myself, I must say I truly appreciate the amount of time and effort you put into this build and I wish you the best with getting it to the magical 1k number. Keep up the good work!
All it needs is a cam and retune, you're good homie
I had to wait for this video to get rollers of my car 😂 also I had fun Asf that day, I’m definitely down to be the support Volvo for dyno sessions
Been binge watching the volvo series and absolutely love it!! This series has convinced me to try to find my own 240 wagon
240 wagons are absolutely awsome!
So many frustrations with this car, but its so exciting to see its potential and wonder what it's capable of. Can't wait to see it get all figured out and properly rip!
I'm more confident than not that it's the manifolds, getting them glowing on the dyno is a sign of excessive back pressure with that much heat. If it was the intercooler then your IATs would be going up which meth helps keep in check. Also I would send an oil sample to blackstone labs to see what could be the particulate in there, they've always been super accurate with my builds
I actually saw the video from the dyno shop itself.
I actually was the dyno in the shop itself.
I actually was the shop itself
I actually was the volvo itself
I actually was the dyno itself
i actually was gingium himself
Don’t get too caught up on exactly what psi it takes to make the power. It took my car 30 psi on e85 through a VS 85mm to make 1000. I agree with others I would definitely look at the intercooler first. You’ll get it!
Yessir! eBay intercooler gotta go bye bye lol
@@_Gingium_ could you do a test without the intercooler, just one run to see it that's the issue?
I think the exhaust manifolds may be the restriction. On a build of mine way back when the exhaust manifold would glow red like that during single dyno pulls. They should not turn red that quickly from what I remember. I went up a tube size for the manifold and that solved my issue. That being said, my build was a Honda with a single manifold. I am not sure how the computes to a V8. Love the build and the content!
Love the videos Gingium! Don't let the view count stop the grind!!
I appreciate it! ♥
Could do with a better intercooler, rated to around 1000bhp, upgraded cam, the stock one will start becoming a restriction and new valve springs, the stuff in the oil looks like bearings, maybe take the sump off and pull a cap, pretty easy to change but she's coming along nicely :D
I would use an banks idash system or something similar to measure your pressures everywhere. Then you can conclude which component is the issue. Plus the nerds, like me, love data. You'll figure it out, you got this!
Call BTR and ask what it would take to hit your goal. They've probably done it before. I'd guess like 240-ish degree intake duration or more boost. The graph shape might change a bit with the wastegate working. Wish the build specs were in the description so i didnt have to research old videos again, but do like this car!
It’s awesome to finally see you smile man. It’s been a couple of videos without you smiling y for real. Goes to show the power of stuff working out as expected. ❤
Yo Gingium, I think you pointed out the issue right at the beginning of the video in the dyno session. Your problem is very likely the cam. I believe it's not opening long/far enough to allow all that air in the engine at the higher revs. I would recommend the cam first, and then go from there.
Cheers mate!
It has a BTR stage 2 turbo cam. It is big enough
no bro, you don’t even really have to pay much attention. the cam is meant very clearly for higher and earlier lift. it’s why it has that idle.
I get the feeling like "stage 2" doesn't mean 1000+hp
@@jagharingenyoutube BTR makes stage 3 and stage 4 cams tho. If you are trying to make 1000+ HP, wouldn't it make sense to start using stage 3 or 4?
I think the same dude. Maybe he should look into porting the heads, that should free up a couple dozen cfm
Use a chunk of brass, a sharp square edge chisel, and a hammer to cut them lines. Put the chunk of brass on a work table, then the line, then the edge of the chisel (straight up and down) where you wanna cut, whack it with a hammer and It’s gon give you the cleanest cut out there with minimal debris.
Great video. Keep at it. You will get to 1000! I really enjoy seeing you solve these high performance problems. Especially on a 240. Swedish bricks are classic.
“Bro it’s unleaded fuel only” “I mean it is unleaded” 😂😂😂
By far my favourite CZcams channel, love the variety 👌
100% agree on intercooler; cores flow differently why they mark them xhp I want to say mcm covered this 😅 love the channel keep up the sick builds makes my days better watching ur vids
That glitter sucks hopefully Rodney doesn’t come knocking
Good luck on the drag strip❤
Love your channel. Cant wait to get my 1994 940 wagon rockin like yours!
Put a EGT sensor to monitor the exhaust,if it’s too hot mean that it’s having a restriction or running lean witch should not be the case(the lean mixture). I think the cam may just not be enough. Before you do any modifications,check the EGTs and intake temp,you will have a better understanding of what is happening.
🤙🏻
OK, a few recommendations - First, try the easy stuff which is basically bypassing everything
- Pop off the v band for the exhaust and run effectivly dump pipes and see if you solve your backpressure issues (or at least log backpressure?)
- Bypass your intercooler if possible and see if you get different results
- Put shop air onto the top of your wastegates to bypass wastegate open/close issues
It sounds like you're getting the proper pressure but probably not the right amount of airflow.
What injectors and duty cycle are you running, you can probably work backwards to figure out if you're not getting enough air if your injectors are running at a lower percentage with high psi but proper AF ratios.
And of course, I presume proper sloppy stage 2 cam and springs? I think you're at the point of the project where you double check everything and make sure your sensors are reading as they're supposed to as well.
Double check your 4 bar/ pressure sensors and MAKE SURE you're making the boost you think you're making.
and when you don't want to do any of that, hit up matt at sloppy mechanics and see if you can get him to take a look at some logs/ the build.
Literally just got done watching your last video and looked down and saw this… haven’t been more excited to see a CZcams post
Cant wait to see the truck again
I am so glad you’re making more videos 😊 love watching
Hell yeah man. Good luck with figuring it out.
Hey, I remember you. I used to watch your Forza Horizon videos back in the day. Wow, how time really flies.
I'm curious, why not consult Cleeter and the rest of the Freedom Factory gang? They might be able to give you some ideas where to look! (and might end up in the collab video I've been dreaming of for like 3 years....)
Nice work ❤️ 👍
Check valve springs, and your camshaft specs, they may not be optimal for the boosted application. Intercooler rated to 500 hp with a goal of 1000 hp is also a your main source of restriction. Valve springs and sub optimal lift and duration in the camshaft can make it seem like it’s falling on its face.
Manifolds are also getting pretty hot… with safe AFR values, that implies excessive back pressure
Are you sure that water to air intercooler is rated for that hp ?
Edit: oh, he does mention that in the end
hehehe....
As others have said, I think it may be the cam or cam duration/lift or the springs being too soft. This was the first thing I thought of when watching the pulls. I usually see issues with the turbo kits and restrictions causing boost creep or they hit a wall. Since you still have the power dropping off at low power/boost, it's very unlikely to be your turbo kit, exhaust, or intercooler. You made 407HP and it still dropped off.
I bet a rod bearing is about to go so I wouldn't take it on any long trips until you have a clean oil change.
My dad taught me one important rule of engine tuning on all our trips to motorcycle races. WERA and AMA singles with his Yamaha SRX. Always listen to the bikes on deceleration. The best tuned ones will always sound smooth. Everyone nowadays wants a snap crackle pop tune because hurr durr that sounds cool and means power, and it’s ruining your engine.
At the end of the video, yeah I think you answered your own question with the intercooler unfortunately. However, at least you have strong clues of what it might be and what to grab next for it, PLUS you managed that 800hp with a stuck wastegate whereas I'm lucky to manage friggin 110hp in the little Fit I have as my only car on account of being stock as shit.
You got this, she'll chooch! Just needs a little more kinking out yet.
Curious to see what the pre intercooler pressure is on the setup. A sticking wastegate will definitely mess up bank to bank VE so you definitely need to grease up those wg shafts. They dont have pvd coating like tials. Moly grease works well. Also, i have had engines make that kind of glitter before. Last engine that did that had a bent crank.
For packaging simplicity. You should go to a intercooler brick intake manifold
It should be noted that Engine HP and Wheel HP are different, Caleb never stated either, 830whp is very close to 1000HP at the engine, there will always be a loss through the drivetrain. The rear housing change should have adjusted that map drastically up top, there has to be a restriction somewhere else in the intake side or potentially pre turbo exhaust
Hi dude. My guess on the restriction issue is on the heads. 50/50 between ports/cam profile. Maybe you are flowing enough air to the engine but the engine itself can't suck it into the cylinders
On high rounds should need more hard valve springs to close them faster. 💪💪👌
Sounds so good tho 😍
Yeah, I think its the intercooler that's choking it out at high rpm. And besides, a bigger intercooler that cools the intake charge more means mo powa babeh :P
Look at you using a vice mounted to a work bench! Lol i still remember the old days.
Need to get yourself on hot rod drag week! I think you would love it!
gotta finish this when I get home hell yeah
So happy to see your content continue to grow and evolve you’ve got a lifelong fan ❤️
Thank you so much 😍
Gingium what kind of heads do you have on that motor? If they're some stock LS heads they might be extremely restrictive and causing that drop off you see. A higher flowing motor should make a lot more than around 400whp on super low boost
The hubcaps are fire, I would rock them as wheels
bet money its the intercooler hot air is terrible for making power great vid always like seeing the Volvo
Based on its size, your intercooler can only dump so much heat . Once the turbo produces more heat than the intercooler can handle your combustion air gets hot and the power drops off. The flow capacity of the intercooler enters into the equation as well and that may be part of the problem as well. Some temperature readings of the outlet air as well as the pressure drop across the inter cooler might be interesting as an analysis tool. If size didn't matter you could use a car heater core as an intercooler.
Rated for 500hp intercooler, makes 800hp and wounder why it not making power lol.
😆😆 big oof for me
You could try bypassing the intercooler with a pipe going straight from the turbo outlet to the throttle body to see if that changed anything
I'd honestly upgrade the cam for the bigger back housing, more duration could be the answer, but I dunno tbh
Heads might be the restricted. If you put a turbo cam you gotta have heads to match the flow.
Definitely an air restriction, won’t be the down pipe especially if that valve is open, I’d definitely start with the intercooler core try find one with a higher cfm rating, can’t wait to see this thing blowing tyres to pieces. Also amazes me how those skinny tyres don’t just light up on the dyno
You have to think of egines as an air pump. The larger the volume of air the engine can move, the more fuel can be added and thus more power. Infact, both the turbo and the pistons are air pumps. The throttle body acts as a restriction to this airflow by varying the area or opening size that air can flow through. If you have a straw and put a kink in it, it'll be slightly harder to blow through. If your intercooler is rated for 500 hp, then that means the cross section of all the openings inside the intercooler added up create an area large enough for 500 hp worth of air to flow through. While that's a bit of an oversimplification, the key distinction is that the HP rating of the intercooler is determined by airflow or restriction to airflow, not about cooling characteristics. An analogy could be trying to make 1000 hp through a small throttle body, even though the throttle blade is completely open, the overall diameter and thus area of the throttle body is still too small and creates a restriction to the airflow. If you replaced the small throttle body with a larger one, but only ever opened the larger one half way, the area air could flow through would be the same as the small throttle all the way open. Therefore, you can think of a restriction as being only able to go partial throttle. Again this is an oversimplification, as others have pointed out, when you restrict flow you create a difference across the restriction, thus a closed or restricted throttle body creates a vacuum or low pressure in the intake manifold.
The good ol’ triangle of engine builds. There is budget, big power, and reliable. You can have two. I know it’s going to be a money drain, but when I get around to making my waifu Itasha ricer civic canyon carver, I’m aiming for 300 horsepower on an engine built for 700.
i know its a sleeper but i would love it if you guys made a full restoration of this thing, it would look so cool all shiny and new
It is a credit to your skills on your builds i have a 240 wagon just a bout have all the parts conversion just be stock 5.3 auto 9in big brakes of a 60r
GOOD MORNING BEAST GINGUM MOLLY CZcams CANADA ONTARIO VIDEO 🇨🇦🇨🇦🍀🍀🍀🐈🐈
I had to put new bearings in mine when it made a bunch of glitter. It took probably 1000 miles and 6 oil changes to really get all the junk flushed out of the oil
Oooo are we going to be seeing a sleeper Volvo V2 😮
once that dump can pulls a vacuum on the vent you can take the cap off the vent to flow more air and dump fuel quicker
The soundtrack at 2:00 slaps!
🔥🔥🔥
should measure Differential pressure across the cooler. would be interesting to see if your IAT and IAT corrections is pulling timing out , cause of the Intercooler efficiency..
If it was the intercooler not flowing well, you would see it as boost drop when you measure the manifold pressure. The bigger thing that it could be is high manifold air temps. With high MAT, you have to delay spark, and the air density is lower, which equals les power. My two cents is that it's the heads/cam combo that is not design to flow well at high rpms.
Still love the Volvo keep wrenching you’ll get over 900
If your car is dropping power at high RPM, then you most likely have a valve train issue. Try some stiffer valve springs or maybe a better camshaft. Camshafts matter a lot with cam-in-block engines.
I thought I commented on the video you posted when you put the "bigger" turbine housing on but maybe I didn't. I was saying that the divided housing you used is literally the same size if not a little smaller than what you had previously. Divided housings are more restrictive than open housings. For instance, an open 1.06 flows more than a divided 1.06. The reason you have a similar curve is because the turbine housing is pretty much the same thing as what you had. Step up to a larger open turbine housing in the same size or larger than the divided housing you have and watch your top end pick up drastically.
Calling shenanigans until parts for drift truck come in: week three
Nice i like more videos
The glitter is just the weakness being flushed out of the bearings.
when is the next drifttruck vid coming
Will you be running a different tire of some sort? In the mustang community, a lot of stick cars run bias ply slicks and can get good 60’ times
Lets GOOOOOO❤🔥🐐
I could be capping but I thought you still had a reducer to 3inch somewhere in the exhaust still idk if that's enough to make a difference but something to think about maybe
Oh JOHNNY BOYYY!!! ☠️
Wow, a whole year out of the eBay boost controller!! So reliable /s
It wants more revs, but it can't breathe all the way up there. Hopefully the cams are what solves it, but a prepping step would be a higher-rated intercooler for when this beast hits 1000 for fresh air all the way through.
"Build it. Break it. Race it" sounds better and makes more sense
No metal should be in the oil filter from machining then it was not cleaned enough, even if the filter catch it, it can destroy the cylinders, rings and pistons until it gets caught by the filter. The blue smoke does not look normal, it can also be turbo oil return, it has to be "free fall" with plenty of flow and no line going upwards where oil can get trapped, then you will likely blow turbo seals. Just my 2 cents. 🙃
bro i remember when you hot glued wires together and had that subi
Question about the drag strip. Are you putting beefier tyres on for the day? I remember you having issues with launching last time out.
hey man what display is that you are using to show all the stuff from the ecu
What music did you use during the beginning of the dyno segment? Pretty catchy stuff...
Thing still rips
Can you share what product you used to wrap the exhaust? I've been looking for something similar I could do myself without having to pay for welded inconel shielding.
I really hoped the intro meant this thing was being rebodied. This would be sick if it was made nice. Sleeper doesn’t have to mean looking like a junker.
Is your exhaust manifold, direct from the head, possibly not be flowing so well at the top end?
I think it could be possibly floating the valves up high what valve springs are u running ???????
That amount of sparkle only makes the car fabulous, tbh
My bet is on cam/valve springs. She needs a hawg ass cam brotha!
Can't kill a Volvo :D
596 keep it coming
could the restriction be the intake of air into the turbo?
Does the turbo get necessary air? It's intake is a bit squized?