A Different Way to Get Complex Body Panels Straight with Filler/Bondo
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- čas přidán 16. 09. 2021
- Frustrated? Here's a different way to get complex auto body panels with multiple body line straight when working with body filler or Bondo. Tools and Materials listed below:
Body Filler: Auto Body Master light weight body filler
Metal Spreaders: www.jbtools.com/gl-enterprise...
Cheese Grater: Stanley 21-299
Medium Length Board: www.autobodytoolmart.com/prod...
Tape: 3M Auto Body Refinishing Masking Tape
Primer Surfacer: Auto Body Master Lacquer Primer Surfacer
Spray Gun: Sharpe Finex FX3000 - Auta a dopravní prostředky
Breaking panels down into individual pieces seems to make it less daunting when looking at overall damage. Thanks for the tips Jerry, and have a great weekend.
Thanks for the support my friend - you have a good weekend too. It's always good when NFL starts and playoff baseball is in full swing :)
One of the things I like about what you do is that you understand that the first step of Bondo work is re-shaping the panel. Most other people seem to think that you start with 80 grit. That's bullshit. You start coarse, get the shape right and then refine. These other clowns put on like five coats of Bondo and still don't have the panel right. There isn't anything wrong with 36 grit paper and a cheese grater.
You're absolutely right on. You'll go nuts trying to get things straight with fine paper - it just clogs and rides over - doesn't cut through. Always great to hear your comments Sataman - have a great weekend my friend :)
Great advice on breaking down the job into separate panel's great tips as always Jerry, thanks for sharing 👍🏻
You are very welcome - glad you liked it :)
Great video. Just this morning I was telling a guy to grid his work out
Glad you appreciate it - thanks for the support my friend :)
Exceptionnal craftmanship, as always, I would say...
You're always doing good work. I'm learning a lot from you.
Thank you for this awesome video, I wish I would've found this video this morning!
Glad you liked it Jonathan - hope it helps you out :)
I swear I come to CZcams everyday just to see if you uploaded a new vid I watch and study your teachings thank you brother you have help me freshen up my skills I learned in apex technical school back in 2009
That's great to hear ArmyChris - makes my day. You're very welcome my friend - have a good end of the week :)
Great instructional Jerry, struggling with a dented fender off my 1971 Pinto.
The tape and taking it in steps I think will help! Excited to try tomorrow!
Thanks Eric - my friend and I used to drive around in a Pinto - good times :) Good luck tomorrow - let me know how it goes. Have a good weekend 🛠
You are the man I have enjoyed all of your videos no-nonsense down-to-earth simple common-sense work I appreciate you so much
I appreciate that Jimmy - glad you enjoy them my friend :)
nice video Jerry. Breaking down large areas make it easier and less burn out doing mud work!
Thanks Bob - I appreciate the support - have a good weekend my friend :)
Amazing process as always. I love how you separate each panel section. Your videos should be used in auto body schools.....Maybe they are !!
Have a good weekend Jerry.
Thanks PSG - glad you liked it. Always good to hear from you my friend - you too :)
Great video Jerry. You have a skill like I've never seen applying the body filler. Awesome. God Bless you. I am learning so much from you. 👍👍🇺🇸🇺🇸
Thanks Bob - I appreciate that. God Bless you too my friend :)
Wow just amazing as usual man. Looks fantastic! God bless
God bless you too my friend - have a good weekend :)
I've done those before it does suck, took hours to get them straight. Nice job
Awesome work!!
Thanks Martin - have a good weekend :)
Great video Jerry. You explain how you do the job very well. I think you have a promising career as a sculptor if you choose to follow that path.
Maybe start sculpting famous people out of Bondo? Like Hilary Clinton or something?
Very good . The use of tape is an excellent tip
Thanks BIAS TV - hope it helps you out - have a good weekend :)
Another great video! Hope you’re having a great weekend.
Thanks - you too :)
Excellent job Bud!! I like the ol' Bodymans Band-Aid, it helps keep blood off the Project eh!!☺
Yep - keeps the blood out of the house too. No mercy from these women - I'll tell ya :)
Very helpful !
Good job Sir. Now come over to help me with my daughter's mustang. I'm working in the very same area. Someone needs to stop me before I mess up too far. Loved your video.
Thanks Fred. It does have some curves right there - stick with it - if anything you'll be awesome at mixing filler after the project 😊
Thanks for the great demonstrtion and instruction!
You're welcome Fred - have a good weekend :)
Another informative video. Thank you.
You're welcome :)
Best bodyman on CZcams!...great video Jerry
I always appreciate your comments UPK - have a good weekend my friend. Hope the Lions get it together eh?
@@LakesideAutobody have a great weekend Jerry!
U rock! I wish i was still doing body work.
Thanks Curtis - I appreciate the support - have a good weekend :)
Wonderful
Well explained about body line Jerry very informative will there be a link for the sanding blocks you use Jerry? thank you for the video and have a nice weekend
Here's a good source for wood blocks - the 17 and 9 inch board are what you see being used on this channel most of the time. 9 in this video and then the common rubber block from HF, Walmart etc. Thanks for your support as always Husky - have a good weekend :)
👍🏻Thanks for showing us the devil in the details, the tape is key.
You're welcome Michael - have a good week my friend :)
Great
Your an Artist. I purchased a couple Stanley Sure form curved rasps. What a difference. Sure does save time and Sandpaper. Do you ever sharpen yours? Or just replace them. I'm a tight A$$. Thx.
Does any body know about single stage primer pour out can into paint gun its calledLXP. 10 it's by lusid technologies
It always turns out nice. Do you like those Durablocks? Friend of mine loves them but I don't see alot of guys using them. Maybe you do and I just forgot. Thanks for vid
I don't use them. Not that they don't work, I just prefer a firm straight board - I don't want any flexing at all. Same for curved surfaces - firm straight board. Nice haring from you Frank - have a good weekend :)
Not so overwhelming, when you break it down into separate sections. What brand is that filler, Jerry?
Thanks!👍
Jerry always lists that stuff in the video description.
Jerry, another outstanding lesson for us noobs. Beautiful work as always. Would it be possible to email you with a quick question about an idea I have for using a single stage clear on my project truck? Have a great weekend! Best Regards, Shawn
Why waste time? The question could have been posted and replied to here.
No problem - schoolvideolibrary at gmail dot com - Have a good weekend Shawn :)
@@LakesideAutobody . Thank You Jerry !!!
This is great, thank you. Do you put the tape above the body line or right on it?
The tape is going to be right where the bodyline is supposed to be.
@@LakesideAutobody thanks!
What was that from you used for marking your tape line? Did you make a form from the driver's side? Thanks for all the tips you share
I was able to see the old body line while pulling the dent. Once your body lines are real close you are just going to recreate them on your own. You can run over and take a look at the other side too if that helps - I do that often. Have a good week John :)
Do you prime over 36grit or do you hit it with higher grit before primer? Just curious, been working panels in with filler then hitting them with 36grit then 80grit getting ready for high build.
I hit it with 80 grit before priming. Try to leave your filler a little "full" so that you can sand it with the 80 and not worry about taking too much off. It's inevitable that you will prime over some deeper scratches but don't worry about it you'll get better and better and eventually know exactly when to stop with the 36 and move to the 80 - hope that's understandable :)
Worse thing is in body shops you don't get a second prime.Did testis by myself for 20 now at 61 I just do prep work,they hate me when I send it back
Yep - it better be straight when it goes to the painter. No one wants their stuff sent back :)
I see you use the metal spreaders do they work better than the plastic ones or is it just your preference
Just preference. They do spread a bit tighter and flatter though. I use both actually - just use the metal ones more often 'cause they are so easy to keep perfectly clean. Plastic ones are more forgiving so if you have to spread on curved panels, etc they come in handy :)
the greatest sculptures in the world start with a coarse chisel to form there statues , 36 grit is good .
Nice analogy OB9 - I appreciate the comment :)
No matter what I just can't get bondo mix rite it's set to fast or not set at all sets about like clay were it peals even after sitten 5 hr
Not sure if you saw this but if you follow it closely you'll be fine: czcams.com/video/BUh9Deb0whQ/video.html
Jerry, what succession of sandpaper grits do you use from sanding bondo, through first primer surfaces ( especially polyester primer surfacers), sanding after second primer before topcoat. Thanks a lot. Tom
I'm a professional paint and body tech for the last 10 years... I have no idea what your question is you use alot of bigger words I can't relate to lol. Put it in layman's terms and I can hopefully help you out lol. Cheers 🥂 EDIT: re read the question a bunch, start with 320 to block primer if you're only priming once, use guide coat to measure your work. Once sanded with 320 re guide coat and move to 400. Then 600. And then paint.
If you're going to prime twice, use 220 or 240 grit to block even, then re prime. After reprime sand with 400, then 600. Guide coat between every grit will be your best friend
40 rough sand filler, 80 finish sand filler, block primer with 120 but sometimes 80 to start if it's a huge area or I'm blocking lots of poly primer. If everything is straight after first blocking - prime again and finish sand with your choice i.e. 220-320 DA or 400 wet sand. I've had good uck finish sanding with 240 DA or 400 wet sand by hand. It varies from shop to shop though - most common is probably finish sanding w/ 320 DA or 400 wet sand by hand. Hope that helps - nice haring from you Okie-Tom - how's everything going with you?
@@LakesideAutobody if I were using a sealer before basecoat 320 would be an acceptable grit, but I've had many times where 320 da pigtails show through the basecoat without a sealer to cover the scratches. 600 is the coarsest I like to go before solvent basecoat, 400 ONLY if it's a solid color, no metallic. If it's a waterborne paint, I wouldn't put basecoat over anything less than 800
@@LakesideAutobody doing fine Jerry, still working on restoration of the 29 Model A Ford coupe for my sister. It was a big mess!
Do you clean shaped bodyfiller with wax and grease remover before applying primer?
It can't hurt to wipe it quickly with some w&g remover - I put it in windex bottle and lightly mist a cloth so that it doesn't completely soak the filler yet picks up a lot of dust. You don't have to do this though - you can blow it off real well - and prime. Good ? my friend :)
@@LakesideAutobody Thanks you very much man. Keep up the good videos. I want to watch them all, since i subscribed just a few months ago, but only have limited free time every day to watch a few every day 🍺
@@petar443 You're welcome Petar - thanks for watching and I'm glad you enjoy them. Have a good weekend :)
👍👍🙏🙏📌
My hit scribe but I don't know what scribe means
It means that YT will recommend my videos to you on your YT feed along with other things you're interested in :)
You are a sculptor.
Thanks for the support Christian - have a good end of the week :)
Making an edge, tape the wheel well like you did, then bondo the outside edge, before bondo hardens pull the tape, now there is your straight line then the other lines do the same, simple and saves time. Your all wrong sanding to the tape, you bondo to the tape.
If you are saying lay the tape first, bondo to it and pull the tape, that would be the same as just spreading filler - it would have nothing to do with getting a body line straight. You can't go around and say everyone is wrong when the job came out completely straight - that's crazyness.