Fiberglass Core Replacement Part 1
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- čas přidán 25. 09. 2012
- Fiberglass Core Replacement Part 1 from Boatworks Today.
Part 1 of a series on how to replace and repair a section of rotten or de-laminated coring material on your boat. For more detailed information on what is featured in this video please visit our website www.boatworkstoday.com
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So good that you're able to find these gems of lackluster craftsmanship. Pisses me off that they know people are paying big chunks of hard-earned money, expecting quality.
That's exactly how my sailboat was built. All new solid decks now. Thank you for you insight! I couldn't refit my sailboat without your channel.
Hi Andy. Rewatching your videos, 9 years ago the channel has come a long way. You are now in the new shop, using coosa on the Bertram. Awesome 👌
Some boat builders of the1980 circa, used a butcher block arrangement of plywood squares to reinforce the deck, combings and cabin tops. The reason behind this is; the butcher block design limits the spread of water and dry rot to one small square (The reason for your moisture meter readings) Other production boat builders of the era used solid plywood as a reinforcement but this lets water and dry rot spread over large areas. However, during this period, most boat builders were just trying to make their products as inexpensive as possible. Which is also why these boats are being restored, better than new (depending on the skills of the rebuilder).
The butcher block idea you're talking about consisted of very tightly laminated and bonded blocks, not these loose shingles.
Thank you Andy for sharing these informative "how to" vids, they are helpful as well entertaining. I personally appreciate the tutorial along with the application, gives more of one on one feeling as if you were teaching a thorough education in variety of possibilities. This episode took the cake in regards to your sentiments and expressions. I enjoy various boat projects as more a hobby and am no expert but have plenty of common sense. Last boat I purchased was for motor and boat was trashed. However upon cleaning it appeared there may be some life left in yet. The fuel tank cover was soft so as any good craftsman would do prior to selling, I chose to address. You are correct in delamination but what took me completely by surprise was exact same square piece patch job! If I had a nickel for every new word I learned while stripping that ...no appropriate description, lol!!! Many friends and family could not understand the time it required to repair such a small area. This vid gives me great confirmation as to spot on reaction I had throughout my own endeavor. Unbelievable and I'm thrilled to see it wasnt just me haha. Great job bud
Thanks Gene! Appreciate the support :-)
I am working on my first fiberglass boat restoration and it is a 1975 wellcraft V-17. The deck was completely rotted and when I made the first cut to see how bad it was I found...6x6 squares of saturated plywood. Unfortunately, the whole deck needs to come out as well as the transom and stringers. Your videos have been my resource on my off time while I do the demo work so I can plan the actual rebuild.
Hey Andy, great vid. I just did this on a deck plate circa 1990. Same Parquet plywood setup😳 Just a tip that may work for you. We used our Fein tool with a smooth cutter (chisel point) to remove the plywood that was still stuck to the laminate. Worked great and didn't have to worry about cracking the glass. We then hit it with 40 grit on a d/a to clean off old adhesives. Thanks for all the great vids😀
Thanks again for posting. On my 1963 Columbia Sabre this is the stage I am about to get into. I noticed they had drilled many 1/4" holes I assume to let the upper deck dry out. I poured expoxy in and in and in... So needless to say I am looking at doing the upper deck over, relaying fiberglass layers. Luckily the beam is only 6' and 1/3 of the boat is deck on the outside. I thank you for showing me this, it really helps me out!
Thanks for the post. I've got a soft spot on top of my sailboat cabin, and I'm afraid I'm going to have to do the same thing. Just outside ... in the weather. But I live in Florida and it's 'winter', so as long as I can keep dry, I'm hoping to get it done.
On to part two ...
Oh .. just want to say how much I REALLY appreciate your videos. They helped me overcome my fear of fiberglass work (hey .. if this guy can do it, why can't I!) by showing the devil is in the details. Your step-by-step videos are much better than trying to glean it from a book. Watching you feather out the fiberglass and fit sheets in is much better than a few till photos.
And thanks for the sticker, it's proudly displayed on the back of my car.
Thanks for the kind words John :-) Good luck with your projects this Winter!! What part of Florida are you in?
We live in St. Augustine, the marina is just off the ICW and it takes about 45-60 minutes to get to the Atlantic, depending on whether I can time the drawbridge opening or not. :-) My guess is I'll have to drive the boat to a quiet anchorage to do any sanding, they usually frown on that in the marina. Should be an interesting project to do on the water instead of indoors or on the hard. Watched the rest of the videos in this series, and really interested in getting started after the first of the year. Thanks again for such great demonstrational videos.
Holy Wow! I can't believe that deck lasted that long! Thats amazing.
Excellent video series. So informative and detailed. Thank you for taking the time to put this 4-part series together. Everyone's entitled to their own opinion but I can't believe that a few people actually gave this a thumbs down. I would love to see their suggestions for improvement in THEIR CZcams submission for recoring a fiberglass deck.
:-) Me too!! Thank you!!!
Keep 'em coming Andy! Enjoy your vids. Gene
Thanks ALOT for the in detail information. Sometimes a less talk more work or talk while working will help with the waiting to see the next step for us viewers. But Awsome job.I just started a 1982 2350 COBRA Cuddy Bayliner 23 Foot. Winter project.
"I'm guessing it was 5:00 o'clock Friday when you laid this deck....good job guys!" That was awesome. I literally laughed out loud.
I did too.
I love your channel.
"If you chisel toward yourself, you're gunna have a bad time." lol great videos man thank you
Timely. I am in the middle of the EXACT same project on my 78 Carlcraft houseboat. Learning as I go. Previous owner did deck and didn't seal a thing, so I am re-framing all the removed rotted pieces and then reskinnjing with plywood. Sealing EVERYTHING in glass and resin, not done before. Not sure which plywood to use, but i think I am settling on outdoor grade sheets, not marine grade, for cost purposes and it will be resin and glass sealed anyway.
I found that same square block coring in the stern platform of a 20' Carolina Skiff.
Just a thought... You are clearly the expert and I love your videos. From my limited understanding of how epoxy, glass, wood, etc adhere, its makes sense to me that the small pieces would create a greater surface area for everything to bond. One large piece of plywood with a glass skin seems like the epoxy would be very thin, in spots, on the surface and have less adhesion. If there is a patchwork set up, there are spaces in between the small pieces for the epoxy to settle and bond to a greater surface area. Almost like laying tile. The grout between the tile adds greater adhesion than just just the base underneath. In the fiberglass situation, the surface skin would not only bond to the top of the plywood core, but down, through the gaps, to the base layer of epoxy and underlying glass???? Again, I have no clue about how fiberglass works, but this just makes sense to me. I'm about to replace a cockpit seat core with plywood and would like you to weigh in, once more, regarding patchwork vs one large sheet.
Hi Jimmy, Epoxy by itself has very little tensile strength. It's only when combined with glass, wood, etc that it really starts to shine :-) Because of this, every seam between pieces of wood becomes a weak spot prone to flexing and eventual cracking. Relating this to a tile example, even the individual tile pieces are bonded to a larger piece of cement board for stability and increased strength. It's all about distributing the stress over as large of an area as possible. The fiberglass layers on top help to tie everything in even more (adding stiffness and protection). Hope this helps!
Last year I replaced the entire deck on a 1993 Bayliner Classic the floor of these boats is covered with a grey felt material. If there is a pin hole in the gelcoat under the grey material is will act as a sponge and allow the water to soak into the floor and rot!
These are good boats as long as you don't get them wet! lol
Thanks. Great advice and show. Already knew about not using treated lumber. Also: what about blending the new surface fiberglass into the old, existing pieces? Feather as best as possible then repaint it all? I am glassing and resining all the new framing underneath to seal. Is this a good way to go? Previous construction was bare, unsealed 2x4s.
Doing this on my boat on the catwalk around sides. I have some pvc boards from home depot can I use them instead of plywood they will never rot again and I am using west system epoxy. Thanks for input.
Good video
This mini series is going to be very helpful :-) I'll be covering all of your Q;s over the next week or two. In the mean time try emailing me some pics of your project so have a better idea of what you're working with.. boatworkstoday@gmail.com
Thanks!
hi andy. thanks for the videos. i am doing the same project on my 35 ft trawler flybridge. having a hard time getting the fibreglass deck to come up , apparently mine was bonded fairly securely. i do not want to break the glass as i plan to relay it once the wood core is replaced. any tips ? your video looked as if it just came right off with no problem.
Any chance someone can give some advise on a soft spot in my foam cored floor? I see products that you inject into holes but I'm skeptical of the performance.
I have a 99 Sea Ray project boat. It had been sitting for a long time and had a hatch leak. I just gutted the entire cabin and found a small hole in the fiberglass ceiling in the cabin, a couple inches from the edge of the hatch. There is wet wood inside. I pulled the hatch out and the edges of the hatch opening are still solid. The interior side fiberglass has delaminated starting at the hatch hole and going at least a foot inward on the side with the hole. What would be the best approach to fix this?
I would like to know if I can remove the wood core under deck hardware and replace with solid glass and how . IF SO WOULD YOU MAHE A VIDEO.
hello, a little late to find this series but I'm starting to re-core the deck of my International 110. 1967 Schock hull with a balsa cored deck and a foam cored hull. I'm plannning on using 5# density divinycell H80 and am looking for any pointers you can give me as far as should I re-use the skin as you did in this series or layup a new skin as I will need to fair it in to the topsides. Looking for lightest-stongest option as I need to keep hull weight in check for racing. Would I use 1708?
The first one sounded like a thud and the second tap sounded crisp.
For cost concerns try looking at Arauco plywood or some kind of cabinet grade (exterior rated) ply. The more laminates the better!! Please stay away from treated :-) If you have any Q;s please let me know! Also, make sure to check out my website as a follow up to the videos, there is more information there that I was not able to include in the videos! I'll be updating tomorrow morning :-)
or post them on my facebook page (link at the end of the video; unfortunately I am not able to post it in the comments....)
I have a boat made with nidacore (?) (coring is water proof closed cell) and the layer of glass on top of it is delaminating. When I walk on parts of the deck I can hear it. IT is not soggy or soft ... just disconnected. IS there a way to glue it back down without removing the "skin" and redoing it? Thanks!
What do you do if the plywood underneath isn't on top of fiberglass like yours is? I'm thinking that I should glass my replacement wood before putting it in. I don't know what weave or how many layers I should use. Its on a small boat and the width of the deck area is only 4' at the widest and average of about 3'.
I had a 23' walk-around Galaxy cc that had the cockpit deck done like that...
what pain, I had no faith in that boat after that. repaired the floor and sold it....
who put the loose wood in the "upper upper deck" OEM boat builder?
:-) Thanks!
What sander are you using
What type of boat is that Marie trader
Never seen anything like that!
Is it possible that the reason that the plywood square are dry stake without any resin was to save weight since that it look to be the bridge deck. Bridge deck needs to be lite so that it does not raise the center of gravity of the boat. just a thought...
+vgaulin I suppose anything is possible :-/ That may have been their logic but on a boat of this size an extra few pounds of resin and glass would be insignificant. Without the resin to tie everything together there's no stiffness or strength. IMO this was just them cutting corners :-(
If you have any Q's let me know :-)
I know this is an old video but I am curious why you replaced the old core with plywood instead of balsa or foam core material?
Marine plywood is good enough and it costs less. There is no sense in putting expensive materials in an already old boat.
I Like that.. "Good Job Guys" .. Meaning You Suck for your Terrible Job During your Original Building Process .. At my Auto Service BitDay (circa 1990) on a 79 Trans Am pulling the Transmission to Rebuild it Clearly said inside the back bumper "This car was built at 5:00 on Friday Sucker" .. Thanks for the trip back down Memory Lane.. Thanks
I get the rest of the deck is still solid currently. But surely they laid the whole deck the same and not just that small area you pulled up. If the rest is the same it will eventually separate too
Glass master you should be making your own boats.we'll call them Glassmater ...
What state are you in
That disappearing hammer at 3:02
You and me both :-)
Shocked they would make a deck from custom particle board... never seen it never heard of it. even patching any carpenter would think this is not good pracktice.
I'm doing that on a deck of a 37' let me tell you it sucks
5 o'clock Friday on a hunter 37c
Wow! That coring. Roof shingles! Looks like they ran out of epoxy.
Unfortunately, you're right. A lot of my time is spent mopping up someone else's laziness..
Dodgy boat building practices are what keeps the professionals gainfully employed!!