For some reason I haven't been getting notified as new comments come in so I have been LAX on replying to them I did see the last I think the last one and what I am in the process of doing right now is creating a new video that takes it from stealing the or I should say harvesting the fuse block from a vehicle that you're going to use with your stock LS harness that will eliminate any thing that maybe you missed in the beginning I don't know it's a matter of just making sure you have power everywhere it's basically it so that should get published today or tomorrow
So far and I've done about a dozen of them I have not paid any attention to whether it was a newer style or an older style fuse box I just grab a fuse box refuse panel or whatever you want to call them and plug it up when you have everything connected correctly If you can do it if you can set it up so that you just set it and it's connected like if you were to turn the key per se you'll hear a bunch of little noises going on in the engine before you crank it and that that's how I know everything's hooked up they're just little noises like things connecting and and starting up When I turn the key on on my Yamaha VMAX it does the same thing it's almost the same noise and it's it's like all the injectors are connecting and they all reconfirm that they're all there and everything else but I haven't noticed any difference in how it works or how you hook it up whether it's newer older than 2003
Mine wont even crank over, all it did was make some clicking sounds I have constant battery power to the far left stud on LS fuseblock which also feeds factory car fuseblock. I have the LS harness main power and trigger wires hooked to starter. 1. I had the car starter trigger wire hooked up to C1- A9 as it seems to be only one i can find that goes hot in cranking mode of igntion switch[ now i have just key on power to A9 but havent tried cranking it] 2. my vats arent deleted as im waiting for OBDlink lx to come in mail but it should still try and crank shouldnt it? 3. I do have re-worked grounds; my main battery ground is now on the head as well as what appears to be another ground hanging out of front drivers side wire loom underneath PS pump area. if i remember correctly both these grounds were attached to the block but had to be removed for the new LS adapter engine mounts to use that hole. My toer secondary battery ground is in the frame. Theres also a braided ground from TH350that i attached to the firewall like i think it was before along with another braided wire that was attached to the SBC 305 i believe[its now hanging as i cant see anywhere to put it back there, if i even need to? 4. i do have open headers yet but cant be my problem since it wont crank. So first thing i will do is hook up that other braided ground to back of hea if i can get a bolt in there, its tight! But what else do u think i did wrong?
I replied a minute ago and I don't see it anywhere so I'm going to repeat what I just said first thing I would do is run a new wire from a power source keyed power source to a push-button switch that you purchased at an auto parts store and then when you turn the key on you push the button in the car is bad solutely going to crank what you do from there is up to you whether or not you try to figure out why turning the key doesn't make it crank doesn't sound like you have a new style transmission where you got those stupid neutral switches so it could be almost anything the large lug that's on the solenoid needs to go direct to the battery and I'm sorry if it's something you already know and that will get it to crank and it should fire with vats on it still is going to fire for a couple of seconds
@@rrwebster i thinki have it figured out. i know my car crank trigger powers up when turned as i metered it.[shows 12v] I know the solenoid on start has power as the large wire is connected to battery directly. so im either going to try getting stock LS harness crank circuit fixed by moving that double pink wire in C2 over to C2 B9. then since i dont have electronic tranny , i will have to short out neutral/park switch. if that doesnt make it crank, i will abandon stock LS crank circuit and crank it directly from car.
So far and I've done about a dozen of them I have not paid any attention to whether it was a newer style or an older style fuse box I just grab a fuse box refuse panel or whatever you want to call them and plug it up when you have everything connected correctly If you can do it if you can set it up so that you just set it and it's connected like if you were to turn the key per se you'll hear a bunch of little noises going on in the engine before you crank it and that that's how I know everything's hooked up they're just little noises like things connecting and and starting up When I turn the key on on my Yamaha VMAX it does the same thing it's almost the same noise and it's it's like all the injectors are connecting and they all reconfirm that they're all there and everything else but I haven't noticed any difference in how it works or how you hook it up whether it's newer older than 2003
For some reason I haven't been getting notified as new comments come in so I have been LAX on replying to them I did see the last I think the last one and what I am in the process of doing right now is creating a new video that takes it from stealing the or I should say harvesting the fuse block from a vehicle that you're going to use with your stock LS harness that will eliminate any thing that maybe you missed in the beginning I don't know it's a matter of just making sure you have power everywhere it's basically it so that should get published today or tomorrow
Which wire pin are you using to run fuel pump
So far and I've done about a dozen of them I have not paid any attention to whether it was a newer style or an older style fuse box I just grab a fuse box refuse panel or whatever you want to call them and plug it up when you have everything connected correctly If you can do it if you can set it up so that you just set it and it's connected like if you were to turn the key per se you'll hear a bunch of little noises going on in the engine before you crank it and that that's how I know everything's hooked up they're just little noises like things connecting and and starting up When I turn the key on on my Yamaha VMAX it does the same thing it's almost the same noise and it's it's like all the injectors are connecting and they all reconfirm that they're all there and everything else but I haven't noticed any difference in how it works or how you hook it up whether it's newer older than 2003
Tried what u said I still don’t hear the relays clicking on
Mine wont even crank over, all it did was make some clicking sounds
I have constant battery power to the far left stud on LS fuseblock which also feeds factory car fuseblock.
I have the LS harness main power and trigger wires hooked to starter.
1. I had the car starter trigger wire hooked up to C1- A9 as it seems to be only one i can find that goes hot in cranking mode of igntion switch[ now i have just key on power to A9 but havent tried cranking it]
2. my vats arent deleted as im waiting for OBDlink lx to come in mail but it should still try and crank shouldnt it?
3. I do have re-worked grounds; my main battery ground is now on the head as well as what appears to be another ground hanging out of front drivers side wire loom underneath PS pump area. if i remember correctly both these grounds were attached to the block but had to be removed for the new LS adapter engine mounts to use that hole. My toer secondary battery ground is in the frame. Theres also a braided ground from TH350that i attached to the firewall like i think it was before along with another braided wire that was attached to the SBC 305 i believe[its now hanging as i cant see anywhere to put it back there, if i even need to?
4. i do have open headers yet but cant be my problem since it wont crank.
So first thing i will do is hook up that other braided ground to back of hea if i can get a bolt in there, its tight!
But what else do u think i did wrong?
I replied a minute ago and I don't see it anywhere so I'm going to repeat what I just said first thing I would do is run a new wire from a power source keyed power source to a push-button switch that you purchased at an auto parts store and then when you turn the key on you push the button in the car is bad solutely going to crank what you do from there is up to you whether or not you try to figure out why turning the key doesn't make it crank doesn't sound like you have a new style transmission where you got those stupid neutral switches so it could be almost anything the large lug that's on the solenoid needs to go direct to the battery and I'm sorry if it's something you already know and that will get it to crank and it should fire with vats on it still is going to fire for a couple of seconds
@@rrwebster i thinki have it figured out.
i know my car crank trigger powers up when turned as i metered it.[shows 12v]
I know the solenoid on start has power as the large wire is connected to battery directly.
so im either going to try getting stock LS harness crank circuit fixed by moving that double pink wire in C2 over to C2 B9. then since i dont have electronic tranny , i will have to short out neutral/park switch. if that doesnt make it crank, i will abandon stock LS crank circuit and crank it directly from car.
99-02 fuse block,, u can see the big fuses on one side,
Can I ask why are the valve covers on the opposite side
I have looked and looked.... I have no idea what you are talking about.
Mophorn Exhaust Header for CHEVY Header (for LS Swap S10 Headers) www.amazon.com/dp/B07DC6VMJP/ref=cm_sw_r_apanp_BQqcR1UZoiCN3
that link doesn’t work…
What exhaust manifold are those where can I get them thanks
Mophorn Exhaust Header for CHEVY Header (for LS Swap S10 Headers) www.amazon.com/dp/B07DC6VMJP/ref=cm_sw_r_apanp_BQqcR1UZoiCN3
Is that fuse block 99-02 or 03-07?
99-02
So far and I've done about a dozen of them I have not paid any attention to whether it was a newer style or an older style fuse box I just grab a fuse box refuse panel or whatever you want to call them and plug it up when you have everything connected correctly If you can do it if you can set it up so that you just set it and it's connected like if you were to turn the key per se you'll hear a bunch of little noises going on in the engine before you crank it and that that's how I know everything's hooked up they're just little noises like things connecting and and starting up When I turn the key on on my Yamaha VMAX it does the same thing it's almost the same noise and it's it's like all the injectors are connecting and they all reconfirm that they're all there and everything else but I haven't noticed any difference in how it works or how you hook it up whether it's newer older than 2003