This is the sort of tuning I like to see. No expensive ecu's and controllers, just a guy in his garage with some basic hand tools and the right knowledge
When I did mine, what I recommended was to install an EGT Gauge first before messing with the pump. You need to make sure the EGT temps stay well below 720 degrees C, else melted pistons and blown engine will result.
Very good point yes it’s always a good idea to monitor exhaust gas temperature when tuning diesels and now that you can purchase sensors and gauges at such a good price it makes good sense 👍
I did this to my 200tdi, it did work very well at first. I definitely saw a huge increase in power, however, I’d recommend against doing this to your vehicle unless you drive sensibly or get and EGT gauge installed. Personally I found that it didn’t suit me, today I was driving along only to realise my car had become noticeably louder, at first I thought this is awesome (blasting through the high street smoking all the pedestrians) and then when I got home I noticed something. The EG temps were too high which resulted in burning off my exhaust and mud flap ! 😂 I’m sure if you take the right precautions this modification is safe, but if you have a heavy right foot driving day to day I wouldn’t recommend it. Please keep in mind I drive like a prat and you may not experience the same thing I did! But it was a good experience, and I don’t regret it.
Thanks for the feedback, yes is best to monitor EGT’s and tweak accordingly really, you can get some quite cheap kits that work quite well now, and also good to fit a larger intercooler and turn the boost up to match extra fuelling 👍 cheers
Good video,those nice mechanical pumps...i install diesels on small boats (19-22 ft) and i use older (mostly Iveco) engines,rebuilt,with mech.pump (and made in ebay EGT gauge). The most rewarding mod i did on one of my 1994 Montereys 3.1 td took exactly 1 ( *one* ) second; Hammered down the pin in the pressure valve about .90 mm; Instant throttle response now,jack rabbit like, feels like it's 1500 kg; L O V E it!!! B U T.....careful!!! if you sink it in/down too much,you may ruin things!!! of course you'd remove the valve then,push the pin out the other way and re-start; of course you'd use your trusted caliper in the beginning and end,trust me,i do!! and i use a threaded rod with a stop nut to gauge the depth of sinking of the plunger; I guess that the internal pressure was too low due to age (or factory cal.) to begin with; the timing,judging by sound,did not change, did not advance,but the take-off and acceleration sure did.
Ha ha thanks man. Yes the Iveco are a tough engine and I bet they move a boat well with all that torque mate. If in doubt get the hammer out 🔨 😂 yea I usually just tweak the timing by ear too, just listen for the dreaded pinking rattle then back it off till she sounds good 👍
Great information and clear video of the pump. Here in France we have emissions controls every 2 years and since a garage added a bigger intercooler and "boosted" the injection, my 300tdi fails. Do you think just backing out the screw 180degrees would reduce the emissions enough to get it through a test so I can reset it after?
Hi, thanks for the kind feedback. If your pump has been previously adjusted then yes you can adjust the main fuel screw carefully to back off the fuel, just be very careful as you don’t want the dreaded diesel run on out of control. Best to have something to cover up the turbo intake on start up just incase 👍
Have been struggling with tuning a pump I put together almost 10 years ago. Young- stupid me totally tossed the plastic spacer above the star wheel, And ground the fuel pin way down. I had forgotten as I did these mods to a different pump, and swapped them over. My issue was that I could get crazy fueing- even with the max-fuel screw out like 3+ full turns!
Thanks mate. Yes the principal is very similar apart from the rotation of the pin as aftermarket boost pins are flat so just make sure the flat side is fitted correctly and don’t rotate it 👍
You should keep the timing as per the manual although there are many different pump versions so make sure it’s correct. I wouldn’t take the sprocket off to time unless you really need to as there is no keyway hence the 1.4 and 1.54 with the dial gauge. I usually take for a drive once I’ve done the pump and tweak the timing with the 3 x 10mm lock bolts and find its best when you just about stop the diesel knock (pinging) for best performance.
Cracking video - Being cheeky, I have Landy 200TDI - starts on the button but will not rev up just idles- anything that could be sticking in what you have shown ?
Thanks mate 😁 as for your issue it could be the mechanism inside has come apart or the pin is seized inside, if you take off the diaphragm and fuel pin out like in the video then spray some penetrating oil down in the pump then try to move the throttle and see if the pin shoots out deep in the hole, then try to push it back with a small screwdriver down on the hole and keep repeating until it’s free 👍
Thanks very much for this useful video. I'll do it very soon on my 300. Any trick to shorten the actuator without removing all the turbo stuff (like manifold) ???
No problem thanks, it is possible to adjust the actuator when on vehicle but you’ll probably end up loosing the little circlip so be careful or at least have a spare 👍 cheers
Any suggestions for freeing off and gripping a seized star wheel / preload adjustment? Breather at the back of the pump has sucked in muddy water and corroded it stuck.
I’ve had them the same mate, I fill it up with wd40 or similar over night and blast out with air line next day and fill back up with wd40 again, eventually it will free hopefully 👍
By turning the last screw mentioned in the video 180 inwards are you adding fuel up top or at hard throttle inputs? Mine has the modification done and it blows a good bit of smoke on harder acceleration
Hi. The screw mentioned actually changes the overall fuelling so if you only turn clockwise by 1\4 turn instead of 1/2 turn then the smoke shouldn’t be quite as excessive 👍
Great easy to follow video…..I have a 300tdi 110 5 speed and my issue is only being able to go up very steep roads in 2nd gear 3500 rpm, 40km/hr and egt around 600 degrees…..would this mod give me more power to be able to climb in 3rd gear? Or is that just what heavy old 110s are like ? Thanks
Gday, awesome video thank you. Ive been messing with my pump for a while, had some good configs and some real doughy ones. Currently Ive got good power egt looks to be sitting around 250 degrees c on idle. My engine overheats underload eg using AC, after all new radiator, wp and fan clutch. Could it be fuel delivery thats causing the heat?
Gday Azza’s, thanks mate, if it’s overhearing at idle then it’s unlikely to be the fuelling but if it’s up in the Rev range when it’s over heating then the easiest way is to see if there’s to much black smoke, if so then it could well be your fuelling, also it could be your pump timing as this effects heat dramatically especially if you can here pinking when driving, it’s hard to distinguish pinking from Diesel knock but if you adjust the pump timing and take it for a spin you’ll soon be able to tell the difference in noise between the two, you want to just here the pinking then back off the timing so you can’t here it for optimal performance and reliability. The overheating could well be an other issue like head gasket or a cracked bore or head. Thanks Shane
How much power gain with all that setup? I have rotated the pin 90º and the star wheel by 1 full clockwise turn, its more responsive, do you sugest turn the fuel screw by 1/4 or a half turn?
You can see anything from 10 bhp to over 20 bhp depending on if you also increase turbo boost, yes try the fuel screw 1/4 just be careful then another 1/8 👍
Extremely helpful video, but get confused on 'steepest'. Technically, the 'steepest' would give less travel that the 'deepest' cut out would. I've seen other articles that say the 'deepest' cut side is where you want the pin contacting. Correct? Thanks!
Hi there, great video and thanks for putting this together. Just a question but would you know what the linkage is on side of pump that attaches to the main thottle likage? With the two springs on? I know early pumps did not have this.
Hi thanks 😁 do you mean the kick down on the none EDC versions of the automatic transmission, or possibly the preload spring setup for the EGR switch setup. Thanks 👍
@@CarJunkeez well i know its not kick down related because it came out of a manual. Not sure its to do with EGR even though yes it came from an EGR engine. I saw the pump in your video had it on aswell, round the other side of pump as its sat in the vice, sits vertical and attaches to the main throtle linkage/ arm. Then has two springs on that means its sprung in both directions of travel they sit horrizontel to the pump. Sorry its long winded but just trying to explain as best i can lol i have heard its a throtle damper! But not sure if thats coorect!
Yea I got you, yes it’s a type of throttle damper as the arm it’s attached to shouldn’t be moved abruptly so the spring dampening gives it a slight delay in both directions when hitting the throttle or letting off quickly 👍
Hi Mate, did this on my 300tdi and holy cow what a difference. Did you find any long term damage associated with this? I can tell its a bit hotter already. Was considering turning the last screw back to just a 1/4 turn instead of the 1/2 turn. I also didnt touch my turbo actuator rod. Is there a siginificant difference doing that. I already am astonished how much faster it made it.
Hi mate, yes you can turn the fuel screw back 1/4 turn to reduce overall fuelling and that will help a little with the exhaust gas temps, increasing the boost by adjusting the turbo actuator does help a little too as it provides more air for the added fuel, just don’t over do it 👍 cheers 😁👍
Ok matey do you know how you say set the gap between 5/7 mm this is with the standard boost pin , would you set the diaphragm gap the same using a fourby boost pin ? Just thinking when you use the fourby pin you don’t use the Nilon spacer . Would this effect the gap height cheers .
Hi mate. The 5/7mm is with a standard pin and shaved plastic collar but to be honest should be somewhere near for aftermarket boost pins to, you can have a play with it if you want and your looking for how much black smoke you get in mid range, if it’s to much then widen the gap or if it’s not enough then close the gap up a little 🚗💨cheers👍
CarJunkeez Will have a play tomorrow once I fit this boost ring 2 thanks for the reply . Liam 👍 Then once am happy with midrange smoke / power , should i then have a play with torx screw in the top ? Just to the same as this , have a play till pull of just smokes then ease of with that till happy .
How can you tell if the star wheel has been altered? Also is the egr switch/ecu just a case of removing from the top of the pump? Already blanked my egr off
It’s difficult to tell if the star wheel has been previously adjusted so I usually go for about a 5 to 7mm gap between pump and diaphragm lid resting on the spring. Yes the EGR switch can just be removed and yes the EGR ecu can also just be removed 👍
The top screw controls the fuel very low in the Rev range so you can adjust in and see if there is to much smoke when setting off with low revs, if there is the just back it off a little and try again. 👍
Hi, sorry I’ve not done a video on seal replacement, perhaps in the future I’ll do one as it’s a common failure, especially the throttle spindle seal. Thanks
Also, I recommend backing off the main fuel screw if you see too much black smoke... you want to only see a mist of black under acceleration. Gotta love these old units, so easy to work on and experiment, but like I said just requires monitoring with EGT gauge and boost gauge if modifying the boost (want to keep it under 17psi). Good vid tho ;)
as promissed, made the modifications this week end on my 93' disco 200tdi... it works sooooo much better!!! I really wanted to thank you again buddy! you rock!!!
Hi ive looked at my plastic collar and it seems quite small its a 200tdi, the washer is 3.5mm tall what sort of height do you reckon these are once youve shaved them down, thanks morgan
Hi Morgan, I’ve come across all kinds of different thickness plastic collars in different pumps so there must be different variants, as yours is only 3.5mm you could try without it 👍 thanks
Have you played around with pump timing? If so, how many degrees do you advance it? And have you made any exhaust modifications? I have a 300tdi Defender ute, screwed up a bit. I use a boost control valve in the cab so when I am pulling big loads on a long incline and the EGT starts getting up there past 700c I can watch my boost gauge and alter it from the standard 15psi up to 18-19psi if needed to keep the exhaust temp under control, I won't go higher than that due to overspeed of the turbine shaft. I also have a home made digital coolant temp gauge setup (purchased from Aliexpress) that replaced the original OEM gauge, best $5.00 including postage I've spent, it's accuracy is amazing. The slightest movement on the throttle pedal will see a 0.1c movement in about 3-5 seconds. I got tired of wasting good money on VDO shit that is 10c out of accuracy, I tried mechanical and electronic and both were pathetic. Maybe it has something to do with them both being made in India? Either way, other premium quality brand 52mm gauges still wouldn't beat my $5 Chinese gauge for accuracy.
Hi Roger, yes I play with timing but only a couple of degrees or so, all 300’s are a little different so I tune timing by ear, I just take it for a spin after adjusting and listen for pinking then back off a degree then make sure the pinkings gone, you’d be amazed by how much most of them are retarded. With the boost I run around 20psi as that’s about the best your gonna get with standard turbo as anymore would be out of it’s efficiency range but a hybrid can run a little more. Yes good move with the boost control mate and the extra boost definitely helps keep the temps down with the extra fuelling. I’m a big believer in DIY electronics as I’ve built a Speeduino for my Renault 5 gt turbo that I’ve converted to EFI and runs perfectly ,as long as you build them well and use decent senders and sensors you can’t go wrong and it’s good you’ve added the extra digital gauge to monitor your temps, better safe than sorry mate 👍 Thanks Shane
Hi. A lot of Discovery autos are drive by wire and have a different injector pump that doesn’t have the diaphragm, but if you do have the pump with the diaphragm then this method will work and will be ok with your auto. Thanks Shane 👍
Sorry I arrived at the party rather late. Just wondering; what happens if you do the tweaking in the pump but do not do the 6mm turbo actuator adjustment? Will it affect/jeopardise the ultimate outcome?
Hey @CarJunkeez I’ve been trying to find a video of you doing the turbo actuator adjustment but can’t seem to find any. Have you done one before? Is there a link I can follow? I’ve found a few from other guys, but I like your simplicity. So I’d much rather use another of your simplified explanations.
My 300tdi has no power taking off at the lights or a slight hill until boost comes on and then it’s away with plenty of power and not much smoke from what I can tell. I noticed the idle isn’t smooth and consistent and is a bit slow in my opinion. What’s your thoughts on this? Should I adjust my pump or look elsewhere for the problem?
Hi, I’d definitely check for other issues first before tweaking mate. Could be anything from bad injectors to bad pump or air leak, even valve clearances, good luck 🤞
@@CarJunkeez Cheers for the reply, I should’ve added the injectors have been serviced, tappets done when head was changed and unfortunately the pump has been fiddled with before. I replaced the diaphragm and the plastic spacer you sanded down was missing. I did turn the fuel down a bit cause it was a bit smokey for my liking and cause the tamper protection had already been removed
Oh right got you, it could be an injector pump issue then, you could try adjusting the injector pump timing with the 3 10mm bolts behind the little cover first.
Hi after watching this video i decided that I am going to adjust the pump on my 200tdi, the only thing is my fuel pump has been rebuilt at some point and the fuel screw has the plastic tamper seal broken but the metal clip has been replaced how can i tell if it has been wound in or not . I dont want to adjust it and kill the engine. Cheers Ben
Hi Ben If it’s been rebuilt by a reputable company then it will be set correctly, but you won’t know that for sure so I suggest you only adjust 1/4 turn first time, then and 1/8 turn a time after, you’ll know if you’ve overdone it as you will get excessive smoke throughout the rev range so back it off again if so 👍
@@CarJunkeez Hi thanks for the reply I will give it a go but I am not sure who rebuilt it but they have used yellow marker paint as indicated on all the bolts to see if they have moved, even the fuel screw but I will try 1/4 turn first
Sounds like a breaker has just marked it up for there anti tamper warranty too so hopefully the diaphragm parts may been in there original location 🤞 if your really worried about run on then you can always take the boost pipe off the inlet manifold and have something flat to put over the inlet to stall on first start up to stop run on 👍
As standard it’s only about 4 psi difference between the 200tdi and 300tdi so if you shorten your actuator rod by about 4mm you should be somewhere near 👍
nice video,clear and very helpful, i will try it to my Daihatsu Fourtrak (because it has similar injection pump). if i tune the boost compensator and the fuel load screw ,is there any posibility i need to change the timing of the injection pump? thanks
Thanks mate. Yes your correct the Fourtrack have a sort of clone of the Bosch VE pump that’s very similar and the same procedure will also work on them, just note that they don’t have the plastic spacer washer on most of them and the diaphragm housing and fuel pin are slightly different but just do the same mods as in the video and will work the same, just bear in mind that the top screw on the top of the diaphragm housing for the low rev range fuelling is slightly different so adjust this in smaller increments like a quarter of a turn and try. You won’t need to change your pump timing, although you can tweak if you want to 👍cheers Shane
Thanks for replying my question. you are very helpful for a beginner like me. In 13.16 when you explain about rotating the Fuel load screw you said if more than 180° is dangerous and the engine will run on, do you mean diesel runaway??
No problem, thanks. Yes that’s correct diesel runaway so be careful, you can have a flat piece of wood ready to block the Inlet of the turbo if your worried 😦
okay got it. but if it not over than 180° then its not too risky for a diesel runaway right? have you ever had a diesel runaway with your InjectorPump setup? how much psi increase you get from IP setup and wastegate rod modification? im sorry if i ask a lot of question
Never had run on from a standard setup with half a turn no, you’ll be fine mate, just some people go crazy and that’s when things go wrong. If you shorten your waist gate actuator by around 6mm then you should see around plus 4 to 5 psi and this works well with the extra fuel delivery 👍
Hello mate.i like the performance of your landy . I am facing some issues with my 300tdi probably pump . . Wannna have some words withyou if you got some time.do you have any Facebook page or something like we can chat .
Cheers for the video ! Very helpful. I have seen boost pins on the market and was wondering if they do the same job (seems to be a bit brutal) ? What is better, the method on your video or boost pin ? Can you recommend any temperature kits to install to verify the temperature? If you have a video on adjusting the actuator on the turbo that you be great. Love how simple you made the video. Cheers
Thanks Ross glad it was helpful, the boost pins that you can buy are usually flat like a wedge and have to be installed perfectly flat against the fuel pin so need to be installed correctly, also some are made from not so tough steel and can wear a groove in them from the pin. They do the same job really but you can’t rotate them to tune if you ever wanted to in the future. Some do however allow the fuel control pin to have a little more travel so therefore more fuelling, I prefer to use the original pin as it’s made more superior and is correctly toughened. As for and exhaust gas temperature gauge then you could try any simple gauge from eBay example rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F311988086342 I will probably be doing a video on the turbo actuator adjustment in the near future and thanks for the nice feedback😁 Thanks Shane 👍
It would only help if you don’t have any underlying issues, the lack of top end could be a fuel issue or even a worn injector pump, but it’s still worth a shot at it, and if you don’t get any black smoke you know it’s a fuelling issue, or if you do get black smoke it could be a boost issue 🔧👍
Hi, you can take the collar totally out and that would allow maximum travel on the diaphragm downwards into the pump, this is usually ok as it can only go so far until it bottoms out, just on some pumps it could possibly stick on the fuel pin deep in the hole but is unlikely to 👍 but the fueling spread will more than likely be increased more than with a shaved down collar in. Cheers 👍
Hi, very easy, just remove and fit blanking plate and pipe, you can also remove the rotary switch assembly off the pump to if you wish. www.ebay.co.uk/itm/290483010436
So I have just bought a defender 300tdi I know nothing really about mechanical stuff and just ordered a boost pin 😂is it easy to put in myself without doing all the tweeks you did ? Anything I need to make sure I do
Interesting way of doing things, I do the opposite. What you’ve done is made the LDA have less of an effect. I put the boost pin on shallow setting and grind it on the boost side for extra fuel. Also wind start screw up higher and even machine under lda so that diagram can sit even higher. Increase the star wheel spring rate too. All these mods lean it off, which then allows you to wind in fuel on the main fuel screw. This way the boost can control fuel far better and there is less smoke labouring off boost.
Hi, yes there’s many different ways to adjust the fuelling, this is just an easy method for people to do that’s more orientated for off road use as it also adds fuelling low down before boost to help with lag and helps to spool the turbo earlier, also I’m trying not to influence not to experienced people to adjust the main fuel screw to much as run away is possible. Thanks 👍
The aftermarket boost pins that you buy are like a wedge with a flat edge unlike the original that is conical so you need to make sure you put it in so the flat surface is is flat against the fuel pin at the bottom of the hole.
@@CarJunkeez okay yea that makes more sense now sorry for the silly questions 😂do you need to like any of the dots up I’ve seen a few that have little dots you need to like up
I’ve been looking at doing this for w bit. However , it’s been hard to find a good part. There is a lot of tush copies out there. If you have a contact for a good pin supplier please let me know I’ve got a 200tdi disco lump in an ex mod defender.
Hi I use the original pin, in the video the pin is also the original pin and find it best long term for wear and toughness. Although with straight cut aftermarket pins you can get more fuel span I don’t like them as they must be inserted truly flush and most wear as they are soft metals and not truly toughened. Thanks Shane
If driven correctly it can improve fuel economy but if driven hard you will definitely use more fuel. The Discovery is more difficult to get decent fuel economy than the Defender due to weight.
@@CarJunkeez Thanks for the reply, did wonder that but as long as it does not screw it up thats fine, although the hose was missing off the wastegate as well.
Hi, I have seen quite a few variations in these pumps, especially differences with the collar, some just have a washer and yes some with a slightly different star wheel, the key is to know if the pump has been modified in the past or not first before you start tweaking, and as we know most Landys have been messed with previously 😂
It’s similar, but with most aftermarket boost pins you need to make sure that they are square on to the pin as they make them flat and not conical like the original, also some are made of softer metal so wear a groove where the pin slides.
This is the sort of tuning I like to see. No expensive ecu's and controllers, just a guy in his garage with some basic hand tools and the right knowledge
Thanks 🙏 yes he simplest methods are sometimes the best, especially if they don’t cost anything 😁
100%
When I did mine, what I recommended was to install an EGT Gauge first before messing with the pump. You need to make sure the EGT temps stay well below 720 degrees C, else melted pistons and blown engine will result.
Very good point yes it’s always a good idea to monitor exhaust gas temperature when tuning diesels and now that you can purchase sensors and gauges at such a good price it makes good sense 👍
This is great - appreciate the time spent explaining everything, good lighting and good camera work makes for a very informative video.
Thanks 🙏 appreciated
Thank you for the great garage-style mod. Worked better than expected only 200tdi D110. Cheers.
Thanks Brian. I’m glad it was some use to you and thanks for the kind feedback 👍 cheers Shane
Sweet. thanks mate. This is what I needed to know. The simple way is always the best :)
Thanks mate, tried to keep it short and sweet man 👍😁
Mate brilliant video really helpful thanks
It’s BASICALLY brilliant 😂👍🏻
Made my 300 go like hell !!!
Thanks mate 😁 I’m glad it’s worked well on your 300 and appreciate the feedback pal 👍cheers
BASICALLY 😂😂
Good info. Only thing I'd suggest is that you invest in a tripod :) It's a lot easier doing things with two hands! Thanks for the vid.
Thanks mate appreciated. Yes definitely need to get myself a tripod 👍
I did this to my 200tdi, it did work very well at first. I definitely saw a huge increase in power, however, I’d recommend against doing this to your vehicle unless you drive sensibly or get and EGT gauge installed. Personally I found that it didn’t suit me, today I was driving along only to realise my car had become noticeably louder, at first I thought this is awesome (blasting through the high street smoking all the pedestrians) and then when I got home I noticed something. The EG temps were too high which resulted in burning off my exhaust and mud flap ! 😂 I’m sure if you take the right precautions this modification is safe, but if you have a heavy right foot driving day to day I wouldn’t recommend it. Please keep in mind I drive like a prat and you may not experience the same thing I did! But it was a good experience, and I don’t regret it.
Thanks for the feedback, yes is best to monitor EGT’s and tweak accordingly really, you can get some quite cheap kits that work quite well now, and also good to fit a larger intercooler and turn the boost up to match extra fuelling 👍 cheers
Thank you so much for making this video so much useful information 🙏
Thanks and I’m glad it’s useful to you 😁
Köszönöm!
...és a zene is jó!
Thanks 😁👍
Good video,those nice mechanical pumps...i install diesels on small boats (19-22 ft) and i use older (mostly Iveco) engines,rebuilt,with mech.pump (and made in ebay EGT gauge).
The most rewarding mod i did on one of my 1994 Montereys 3.1 td took exactly 1 ( *one* ) second;
Hammered down the pin in the pressure valve about .90 mm;
Instant throttle response now,jack rabbit like, feels like it's 1500 kg; L O V E it!!!
B U T.....careful!!! if you sink it in/down too much,you may ruin things!!! of course you'd remove the valve then,push the pin out the other way and re-start; of course you'd use your trusted caliper in the beginning and end,trust me,i do!! and i use a threaded rod with a stop nut to gauge the depth of sinking of the plunger;
I guess that the internal pressure was too low due to age (or factory cal.) to begin with; the timing,judging by sound,did not change, did not advance,but the take-off and acceleration sure did.
Ha ha thanks man. Yes the Iveco are a tough engine and I bet they move a boat well with all that torque mate. If in doubt get the hammer out 🔨 😂 yea I usually just tweak the timing by ear too, just listen for the dreaded pinking rattle then back it off till she sounds good 👍
Great information and clear video of the pump.
Here in France we have emissions controls every 2 years and since a garage added a bigger intercooler and "boosted" the injection, my 300tdi fails.
Do you think just backing out the screw 180degrees would reduce the emissions enough to get it through a test so I can reset it after?
Hi, thanks for the kind feedback. If your pump has been previously adjusted then yes you can adjust the main fuel screw carefully to back off the fuel, just be very careful as you don’t want the dreaded diesel run on out of control. Best to have something to cover up the turbo intake on start up just incase 👍
You should move to Ontario Canada you’d make a fortune mate
I just subbed Thank you
Peace
Ha ha cheers bro appreciated 😁 I post to Canada quite a lot, sounds like you all love modding Landys too 👍 thanks for the sub mate. Peace ✌️
Have been struggling with tuning a pump I put together almost 10 years ago.
Young- stupid me totally tossed the plastic spacer above the star wheel,
And ground the fuel pin way down.
I had forgotten as I did these mods to a different pump, and swapped them over.
My issue was that I could get crazy fueing- even with the max-fuel screw out like 3+ full turns!
Yea can be difficult to get back to normal when they’ve been messed with before. Make sure the little pin isn’t seized deep down in the hole
Great how too vid fella 👌...can I ask if the setting would be the same if using a modified boost pin inside the pump?
Thanks mate. Yes the principal is very similar apart from the rotation of the pin as aftermarket boost pins are flat so just make sure the flat side is fitted correctly and don’t rotate it 👍
What would be the ignition advance timing for this pump if you remove the EGR? As per the manual EGR pump should be set to 1.40 and non-EGR 1.54.
You should keep the timing as per the manual although there are many different pump versions so make sure it’s correct. I wouldn’t take the sprocket off to time unless you really need to as there is no keyway hence the 1.4 and 1.54 with the dial gauge. I usually take for a drive once I’ve done the pump and tweak the timing with the 3 x 10mm lock bolts and find its best when you just about stop the diesel knock (pinging) for best performance.
Cracking video - Being cheeky, I have Landy 200TDI - starts on the button but will not rev up just idles- anything that could be sticking in what you have shown ?
Thanks mate 😁 as for your issue it could be the mechanism inside has come apart or the pin is seized inside, if you take off the diaphragm and fuel pin out like in the video then spray some penetrating oil down in the pump then try to move the throttle and see if the pin shoots out deep in the hole, then try to push it back with a small screwdriver down on the hole and keep repeating until it’s free 👍
Thanks very much for this useful video. I'll do it very soon on my 300.
Any trick to shorten the actuator without removing all the turbo stuff (like manifold) ???
No problem thanks, it is possible to adjust the actuator when on vehicle but you’ll probably end up loosing the little circlip so be careful or at least have a spare 👍 cheers
Any suggestions for freeing off and gripping a seized star wheel / preload adjustment? Breather at the back of the pump has sucked in muddy water and corroded it stuck.
I’ve had them the same mate, I fill it up with wd40 or similar over night and blast out with air line next day and fill back up with wd40 again, eventually it will free hopefully 👍
By turning the last screw mentioned in the video 180 inwards are you adding fuel up top or at hard throttle inputs? Mine has the modification done and it blows a good bit of smoke on harder acceleration
Hi. The screw mentioned actually changes the overall fuelling so if you only turn clockwise by 1\4 turn instead of 1/2 turn then the smoke shouldn’t be quite as excessive 👍
Great easy to follow video…..I have a 300tdi 110 5 speed and my issue is only being able to go up very steep roads in 2nd gear 3500 rpm, 40km/hr and egt around 600 degrees…..would this mod give me more power to be able to climb in 3rd gear? Or is that just what heavy old 110s are like ? Thanks
Thanks 🙏 yea should help with that as long as there is no other issues , they can be underpowered when standard 👍
Gday, awesome video thank you. Ive been messing with my pump for a while, had some good configs and some real doughy ones. Currently Ive got good power egt looks to be sitting around 250 degrees c on idle. My engine overheats underload eg using AC, after all new radiator, wp and fan clutch. Could it be fuel delivery thats causing the heat?
Gday Azza’s,
thanks mate, if it’s overhearing at idle then it’s unlikely to be the fuelling but if it’s up in the Rev range when it’s over heating then the easiest way is to see if there’s to much black smoke, if so then it could well be your fuelling, also it could be your pump timing as this effects heat dramatically especially if you can here pinking when driving, it’s hard to distinguish pinking from Diesel knock but if you adjust the pump timing and take it for a spin you’ll soon be able to tell the difference in noise between the two, you want to just here the pinking then back off the timing so you can’t here it for optimal performance and reliability.
The overheating could well be an other issue like head gasket or a cracked bore or head.
Thanks
Shane
How much power gain with all that setup? I have rotated the pin 90º and the star wheel by 1 full clockwise turn, its more responsive, do you sugest turn the fuel screw by 1/4 or a half turn?
You can see anything from 10 bhp to over 20 bhp depending on if you also increase turbo boost, yes try the fuel screw 1/4 just be careful then another 1/8 👍
Extremely helpful video, but get confused on 'steepest'. Technically, the 'steepest' would give less travel that the 'deepest' cut out would. I've seen other articles that say the 'deepest' cut side is where you want the pin contacting. Correct? Thanks!
Thanks mate, yes your correct, think it’s the Manc way of saying things kicking in 😂 sometimes can be a problem for me 🤣 cheers 👍
@@CarJunkeez Thanks MUCH for the reply! Now i can put it back together. ;-)
No problem, cheers 😃
Hi there, great video and thanks for putting this together. Just a question but would you know what the linkage is on side of pump that attaches to the main thottle likage? With the two springs on? I know early pumps did not have this.
Hi thanks 😁 do you mean the kick down on the none EDC versions of the automatic transmission, or possibly the preload spring setup for the EGR switch setup. Thanks 👍
@@CarJunkeez well i know its not kick down related because it came out of a manual. Not sure its to do with EGR even though yes it came from an EGR engine. I saw the pump in your video had it on aswell, round the other side of pump as its sat in the vice, sits vertical and attaches to the main throtle linkage/ arm. Then has two springs on that means its sprung in both directions of travel they sit horrizontel to the pump. Sorry its long winded but just trying to explain as best i can lol i have heard its a throtle damper! But not sure if thats coorect!
Yea I got you, yes it’s a type of throttle damper as the arm it’s attached to shouldn’t be moved abruptly so the spring dampening gives it a slight delay in both directions when hitting the throttle or letting off quickly 👍
@@CarJunkeez Cheers good man, nice truck aswell you've done a good job of it 👍
Thanks mate, appreciated 👍
master !!!!!
Hi Mate, did this on my 300tdi and holy cow what a difference. Did you find any long term damage associated with this? I can tell its a bit hotter already. Was considering turning the last screw back to just a 1/4 turn instead of the 1/2 turn. I also didnt touch my turbo actuator rod. Is there a siginificant difference doing that. I already am astonished how much faster it made it.
Hi mate, yes you can turn the fuel screw back 1/4 turn to reduce overall fuelling and that will help a little with the exhaust gas temps, increasing the boost by adjusting the turbo actuator does help a little too as it provides more air for the added fuel, just don’t over do it 👍 cheers 😁👍
Ok matey do you know how you say set the gap between 5/7 mm this is with the standard boost pin , would you set the diaphragm gap the same using a fourby boost pin ? Just thinking when you use the fourby pin you don’t use the Nilon spacer . Would this effect the gap height cheers .
Hi mate. The 5/7mm is with a standard pin and shaved plastic collar but to be honest should be somewhere near for aftermarket boost pins to, you can have a play with it if you want and your looking for how much black smoke you get in mid range, if it’s to much then widen the gap or if it’s not enough then close the gap up a little 🚗💨cheers👍
CarJunkeez
Will have a play tomorrow once I fit this boost ring 2
thanks for the reply . Liam 👍
Then once am happy with midrange smoke / power , should i then have a play with torx screw in the top ? Just to the same as this , have a play till pull of just smokes then ease of with that till happy .
No worries pal and yes you got the top torx screw sussed there mate bob on, in for more low end smoke out for less 👍💨
How can you tell if the star wheel has been altered? Also is the egr switch/ecu just a case of removing from the top of the pump? Already blanked my egr off
It’s difficult to tell if the star wheel has been previously adjusted so I usually go for about a 5 to 7mm gap between pump and diaphragm lid resting on the spring.
Yes the EGR switch can just be removed and yes the EGR ecu can also just be removed 👍
Ok cheers I’ll try the gap then have to work out the top screw aswell
The top screw controls the fuel very low in the Rev range so you can adjust in and see if there is to much smoke when setting off with low revs, if there is the just back it off a little and try again. 👍
Do U have video on changing the seals. I got ve pump on my patrol BD it has 2 leaks, one like a river, cheers
Hi, sorry I’ve not done a video on seal replacement, perhaps in the future I’ll do one as it’s a common failure, especially the throttle spindle seal. Thanks
@@CarJunkeez well if a common failure. U think U get a lot views 😉
Also, I recommend backing off the main fuel screw if you see too much black smoke... you want to only see a mist of black under acceleration. Gotta love these old units, so easy to work on and experiment, but like I said just requires monitoring with EGT gauge and boost gauge if modifying the boost (want to keep it under 17psi). Good vid tho ;)
Thanks mate yes best to monitor exhaust gas temps and boost, and sensors and gauges are inexpensive now so makes sense 👍
Excelente!
Grassia's amigo 👍
Hi mate! When you say to shorten the accuator rod... You mean to screw it in a way to reduce its length by 6mm or you actually mean to cut it?
Hi mate, on the turbo actuator, yes I mean to screw it in to reduce its length 👍
@@CarJunkeez checking it this week end... Thank you soooooo much for your help! Definitely owe you a booze!
as promissed, made the modifications this week end on my 93' disco 200tdi... it works sooooo much better!!! I really wanted to thank you again buddy! you rock!!!
Awesome mate, glad you got chance to do it and all is well, thanks for the kind feedback too, much appreciated 🙏👍
Hi ive looked at my plastic collar and it seems quite small its a 200tdi, the washer is 3.5mm tall what sort of height do you reckon these are once youve shaved them down, thanks morgan
Hi Morgan, I’ve come across all kinds of different thickness plastic collars in different pumps so there must be different variants, as yours is only 3.5mm you could try without it 👍 thanks
Have you played around with pump timing? If so, how many degrees do you advance it? And have you made any exhaust modifications?
I have a 300tdi Defender ute, screwed up a bit. I use a boost control valve in the cab so when I am pulling big loads on a long incline and the EGT starts getting up there past 700c I can watch my boost gauge and alter it from the standard 15psi up to 18-19psi if needed to keep the exhaust temp under control, I won't go higher than that due to overspeed of the turbine shaft. I also have a home made digital coolant temp gauge setup (purchased from Aliexpress) that replaced the original OEM gauge, best $5.00 including postage I've spent, it's accuracy is amazing. The slightest movement on the throttle pedal will see a 0.1c movement in about 3-5 seconds. I got tired of wasting good money on VDO shit that is 10c out of accuracy, I tried mechanical and electronic and both were pathetic. Maybe it has something to do with them both being made in India? Either way, other premium quality brand 52mm gauges still wouldn't beat my $5 Chinese gauge for accuracy.
Hi Roger, yes I play with timing but only a couple of degrees or so, all 300’s are a little different so I tune timing by ear, I just take it for a spin after adjusting and listen for pinking then back off a degree then make sure the pinkings gone, you’d be amazed by how much most of them are retarded. With the boost I run around 20psi as that’s about the best your gonna get with standard turbo as anymore would be out of it’s efficiency range but a hybrid can run a little more. Yes good move with the boost control mate and the extra boost definitely helps keep the temps down with the extra fuelling.
I’m a big believer in DIY electronics as I’ve built a Speeduino for my Renault 5 gt turbo that I’ve converted to EFI and runs perfectly ,as long as you build them well and use decent senders and sensors you can’t go wrong and it’s good you’ve added the extra digital gauge to monitor your temps, better safe than sorry mate 👍
Thanks Shane
Good video
Thanks mate, appreciated 👍
Awesome, thanks. Will this anyhow affect the automatic transmission?
Hi. A lot of Discovery autos are drive by wire and have a different injector pump that doesn’t have the diaphragm, but if you do have the pump with the diaphragm then this method will work and will be ok with your auto. Thanks Shane 👍
What should the measurement be on the mix fuel screw after adjustment with the mod my pumps been messed and would like to know if it's right?
Unfortunately they’re all different so if it’s already been messed with it’s difficult to know the original setting
Sorry I arrived at the party rather late. Just wondering; what happens if you do the tweaking in the pump but do not do the 6mm turbo actuator adjustment? Will it affect/jeopardise the ultimate outcome?
Hi, no you will just get more black smoke than if you’d adjusted the boost and a little less power, but should be fine 👍
@@CarJunkeez thank you mate.
Hey @CarJunkeez I’ve been trying to find a video of you doing the turbo actuator adjustment but can’t seem to find any. Have you done one before? Is there a link I can follow? I’ve found a few from other guys, but I like your simplicity. So I’d much rather use another of your simplified explanations.
Hi mate, sorry I’ve not done a video on the Tdi boost actuator adjustment but possibly in the near future if I get chance 👍 cheers
My 300tdi has no power taking off at the lights or a slight hill until boost comes on and then it’s away with plenty of power and not much smoke from what I can tell. I noticed the idle isn’t smooth and consistent and is a bit slow in my opinion. What’s your thoughts on this? Should I adjust my pump or look elsewhere for the problem?
Hi, I’d definitely check for other issues first before tweaking mate. Could be anything from bad injectors to bad pump or air leak, even valve clearances, good luck 🤞
@@CarJunkeez Cheers for the reply, I should’ve added the injectors have been serviced, tappets done when head was changed and unfortunately the pump has been fiddled with before. I replaced the diaphragm and the plastic spacer you sanded down was missing. I did turn the fuel down a bit cause it was a bit smokey for my liking and cause the tamper protection had already been removed
Oh right got you, it could be an injector pump issue then, you could try adjusting the injector pump timing with the 3 10mm bolts behind the little cover first.
Hi after watching this video i decided that I am going to adjust the pump on my 200tdi, the only thing is my fuel pump has been rebuilt at some point and the fuel screw has the plastic tamper seal broken but the metal clip has been replaced how can i tell if it has been wound in or not . I dont want to adjust it and kill the engine.
Cheers Ben
Hi Ben
If it’s been rebuilt by a reputable company then it will be set correctly, but you won’t know that for sure so I suggest you only adjust 1/4 turn first time, then and 1/8 turn a time after, you’ll know if you’ve overdone it as you will get excessive smoke throughout the rev range so back it off again if so 👍
@@CarJunkeez Hi thanks for the reply I will give it a go but I am not sure who rebuilt it but they have used yellow marker paint as indicated on all the bolts to see if they have moved, even the fuel screw but I will try 1/4 turn first
Sounds like a breaker has just marked it up for there anti tamper warranty too so hopefully the diaphragm parts may been in there original location 🤞 if your really worried about run on then you can always take the boost pipe off the inlet manifold and have something flat to put over the inlet to stall on first start up to stop run on 👍
@@CarJunkeez ok will do
@@CarJunkeez just had a look and I don't have the plastic collar that sits around the boost pin is this bad?
Basically cracking video;)
Thanks mate 🙏😃 really appreciate 👍 cheers
Do you have any idea how many turns id have to do on a 200tdi acuator rod to make it run the same boost pressure as a 300tdi, cheers
As standard it’s only about 4 psi difference between the 200tdi and 300tdi so if you shorten your actuator rod by about 4mm you should be somewhere near 👍
Ok thats great thanks
Tq dude
Thanks 🙏
nice video,clear and very helpful, i will try it to my Daihatsu Fourtrak (because it has similar injection pump). if i tune the boost compensator and the fuel load screw ,is there any posibility i need to change the timing of the injection pump? thanks
Thanks mate. Yes your correct the Fourtrack have a sort of clone of the Bosch VE pump that’s very similar and the same procedure will also work on them, just note that they don’t have the plastic spacer washer on most of them and the diaphragm housing and fuel pin are slightly different but just do the same mods as in the video and will work the same, just bear in mind that the top screw on the top of the diaphragm housing for the low rev range fuelling is slightly different so adjust this in smaller increments like a quarter of a turn and try. You won’t need to change your pump timing, although you can tweak if you want to 👍cheers Shane
Thanks for replying my question. you are very helpful for a beginner like me.
In 13.16 when you explain about rotating the Fuel load screw you said if more than 180° is dangerous and the engine will run on, do you mean diesel runaway??
No problem, thanks. Yes that’s correct diesel runaway so be careful, you can have a flat piece of wood ready to block the Inlet of the turbo if your worried 😦
okay got it. but if it not over than 180° then its not too risky for a diesel runaway right? have you ever had a diesel runaway with your InjectorPump setup?
how much psi increase you get from IP setup and wastegate rod modification?
im sorry if i ask a lot of question
Never had run on from a standard setup with half a turn no, you’ll be fine mate, just some people go crazy and that’s when things go wrong. If you shorten your waist gate actuator by around 6mm then you should see around plus 4 to 5 psi and this works well with the extra fuel delivery 👍
Hello mate.i like the performance of your landy . I am facing some issues with my 300tdi probably pump . . Wannna have some words withyou if you got some time.do you have any Facebook page or something like we can chat .
Hi.
Yes my Facebook page is Mastaz or you can email me mastaz@live.co.uk
Thanks
Shane
Cheers for the video ! Very helpful. I have seen boost pins on the market and was wondering if they do the same job (seems to be a bit brutal) ? What is better, the method on your video or boost pin ? Can you recommend any temperature kits to install to verify the temperature?
If you have a video on adjusting the actuator on the turbo that you be great.
Love how simple you made the video. Cheers
Thanks Ross glad it was helpful, the boost pins that you can buy are usually flat like a wedge and have to be installed perfectly flat against the fuel pin so need to be installed correctly, also some are made from not so tough steel and can wear a groove in them from the pin. They do the same job really but you can’t rotate them to tune if you ever wanted to in the future. Some do however allow the fuel control pin to have a little more travel so therefore more fuelling, I prefer to use the original pin as it’s made more superior and is correctly toughened.
As for and exhaust gas temperature gauge then you could try any simple gauge from eBay example
rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F311988086342
I will probably be doing a video on the turbo actuator adjustment in the near future and thanks for the nice feedback😁
Thanks
Shane 👍
Thanks alot for the info. Can't wait for the video of the actuator. A lot of my friends have watched your video this morning :)
No problem, I’ll get one done next time I’m stripping a 300, and thanks for sharing the video with your friends.
Thanks
Shane 👍
Im having issue w 300tdi. Sluggish and tops out at 100kph in 5th. Will this help w increasing top end speed?
It would only help if you don’t have any underlying issues, the lack of top end could be a fuel issue or even a worn injector pump, but it’s still worth a shot at it, and if you don’t get any black smoke you know it’s a fuelling issue, or if you do get black smoke it could be a boost issue 🔧👍
I have seen some vids where they remove the plastic collar totally. Is that a good idea or not? Thanks
Hi, you can take the collar totally out and that would allow maximum travel on the diaphragm downwards into the pump, this is usually ok as it can only go so far until it bottoms out, just on some pumps it could possibly stick on the fuel pin deep in the hole but is unlikely to 👍 but the fueling spread will more than likely be increased more than with a shaved down collar in. Cheers 👍
@@CarJunkeez Thanks for your detailed response. I'll try it shaved and then without and see what the difference is. Thanks again.
@@scaryfakevirus no problem mate 👍 cheers
Interesting.... And I don't even have a TDi😊
Ha ha thanks mate, the things you learn by messing about with stuff hey 😝 cheers 👍
How do you delete the egr? Is there a kit available?
Hi, very easy, just remove and fit blanking plate and pipe, you can also remove the rotary switch assembly off the pump to if you wish.
www.ebay.co.uk/itm/290483010436
what boost should we use on 300tdi? What are the safe limits?
Hi, around 20 psi is a good safe level 👍 cheers
So I have just bought a defender 300tdi I know nothing really about mechanical stuff and just ordered a boost pin 😂is it easy to put in myself without doing all the tweeks you did ? Anything I need to make sure I do
Yes you can just fit the boost pin without any other mods, just make sure you put the pin in square on to the fuel pin in the bottom of the hole 👍
Interesting way of doing things, I do the opposite. What you’ve done is made the LDA have less of an effect. I put the boost pin on shallow setting and grind it on the boost side for extra fuel. Also wind start screw up higher and even machine under lda so that diagram can sit even higher. Increase the star wheel spring rate too. All these mods lean it off, which then allows you to wind in fuel on the main fuel screw. This way the boost can control fuel far better and there is less smoke labouring off boost.
Hi, yes there’s many different ways to adjust the fuelling, this is just an easy method for people to do that’s more orientated for off road use as it also adds fuelling low down before boost to help with lag and helps to spool the turbo earlier, also I’m trying not to influence not to experienced people to adjust the main fuel screw to much as run away is possible. Thanks 👍
Is it as simple as buying a boost pin taking the old one out and putting a new one in ?
Yes you can just fit the boost pin without any other mods, just make sure you put the pin in square on to the fuel pin in the bottom of the hole 👍
@@CarJunkeez may sound silly when you mean square what do you mean by that do you line all the little dots up ?
@@CarJunkeez if it doesn’t go in square whats the issues it causes
The aftermarket boost pins that you buy are like a wedge with a flat edge unlike the original that is conical so you need to make sure you put it in so the flat surface is is flat against the fuel pin at the bottom of the hole.
@@CarJunkeez okay yea that makes more sense now sorry for the silly questions 😂do you need to like any of the dots up I’ve seen a few that have little dots you need to like up
I’ve been looking at doing this for w bit. However , it’s been hard to find a good part. There is a lot of tush copies out there. If you have a contact for a good pin supplier please let me know I’ve got a 200tdi disco lump in an ex mod defender.
Hi
I use the original pin, in the video the pin is also the original pin and find it best long term for wear and toughness. Although with straight cut aftermarket pins you can get more fuel span I don’t like them as they must be inserted truly flush and most wear as they are soft metals and not truly toughened. Thanks Shane
👍😊
How does this affect fuel mileage?
If driven correctly it can improve fuel economy but if driven hard you will definitely use more fuel. The Discovery is more difficult to get decent fuel economy than the Defender due to weight.
Does this mod basically allow more fuel in at lower boost pressures?
Yes but also adds it earlier to help acceleration and changes the fuel curve for better drivability.
What would this cost ? Also what would the Dino show
Hi, sorry this isn’t something I do work wise as I’m really busy with ecu’s at the mo, but if you was to do it you could gain up to 20bhp 👍
💪🏻💪🏻
Cheers 🍻
Just opened up my 300tdi and where you have that little plastic coller I have nothing!
I think someone may have been possibly in there before mate, some people take them out for more travel.
@@CarJunkeez Thanks for the reply, did wonder that but as long as it does not screw it up thats fine, although the hose was missing off the wastegate as well.
I did it from start to finish. But my vehicle is running 1100rpm is it normal???
Hi, yes this can happen, you just need to adjust the throttle screw on the injector pump, it’s the one that is on the throttle mechanism. 👍
@@CarJunkeez My car was 300tdi rn380 1995 discovery. I got really good results, thank you. Turbo new vgt ..
Greetings from Turkey
That’s awesome 👏 cheers🍻
Looks like my "collar" is built into the cog? Or, there is a smaller, similar collar on the fuel ramp pin.. Idk. Lol
Hi, I have seen quite a few variations in these pumps, especially differences with the collar, some just have a washer and yes some with a slightly different star wheel, the key is to know if the pump has been modified in the past or not first before you start tweaking, and as we know most Landys have been messed with previously 😂
Hey. Why shorten the actuator drive?
Making the actuator rod shorter on the turbo will increase turbo boost pressure and is beneficial if you’ve increased the fuelling 👍
@@CarJunkeez Thanks for the answer. Why loosen the spring?
Loosen what spring ?
@@CarJunkeez Spin the star (gear) clockwise. The spring becomes softer.
It’s to decrease resistance so the diaphragm will respond quicker to boost and allow more fuel
Is this better than buying a bigger boost pin
It’s similar, but with most aftermarket boost pins you need to make sure that they are square on to the pin as they make them flat and not conical like the original, also some are made of softer metal so wear a groove where the pin slides.
Pin clock wise 90 degree round.. why
From a standard setting this will increase the tapered angle of the lower pin to increase fuel span 👍
@@CarJunkeez What you mean to say is that the pin will be removed from the company's antidote and 90 degrees will be filled with fuel.
You drove fuel from everywhere Black smoke
@@CarJunkeez What is the correct boost pin location
Plz reply
Can you do it on my car
Hi, sorry I don’t carry out this type of work as I’m to busy with my ECU business, thanks 🙏
Basically lol
I just basically can’t stop saying basically 😂 basically