*This free video took WEEKS to make!* If you’d like to support Paul’s efforts, links below: 👑Get your PDF clamp meter tutorial here: tinyurl.com/PDF-Clamp-Meter 📽Watch ad-free here: www.patreon.com/theengineeringmindset
I only accept useful and relevant sponsorsors. I turn down all games, crypto, fashion, makeup, trading, shaving clubs etc etc despite high offers on a weekly basis.
When I was starting out, I was told to check to ensure the clamp meter I was going to buy had both the AC and DC current modes. Glad I did. Had to return the first one as I forgot the advice I was given. The meter I bought more than 12 years ago still serves me very well.
Back in the day when I was a young ish spark there was no such thing as a DC clamp meter ( only some crappy thing from snap on for cars. Can’t remember when DC meters came out mid to late 90’s ? These cost about ten times the price of an AC meter ( probably a weeks wage) now we buy them at throwaway money. Sooner or later we all accedently smoked an old analogue AVO by forgetting it was left on ohms, if you were lucky it just popped the fuse, if not you were looking at a couple of days wage for a new one 😳
So cool to review clamp-on meters again. My first college co-op job in the late 60’s was to repair these and I learned so much. Back then, nearly all meters were made in USA and analog.
I know this is an ad, but as an ordinary electrician fluke is all you really see. Even among instrument techs (thet calibrate sensors, sensors which control valves), the 789 is the preferred choice.
I learnt a lot from this - particularly the use of hall effect sensors for DC current sensing!! That's incredibly cool - however, I do have a couple of things to mention: - The directions for current flow used with the clamp-type DC multimeters is called conventional current (TEM obviously know this and the video is correct, but just some added detail). Technically speaking, current flows from negative to positive (electron flow) but that's just confusing and unnecessary for most people - Compounding from the previous point, connecting the neutral/negative first is almost always a good idea, but it won't save you. Car chassis are tied to battery negative, so you should always connect negative first because it can't short against the chassis whereas connecting the positive first means your circuit could short against the chassis. The same idea mostly applies with household circuitry - neutral and ground are tied together, so _theoretically_ you remain in phase with any current if you ground yourself accidentally. However, shorting to literal "ground" (i.e. touching grass) will hurt just as much as putting hot to the same location.
I think you missed something in your point about not always connecting the negative/neutral first. You didn't give an example of when it's appropriate to connect to positive first. You mentioned car batteries, so I think you may have intended to mention that when installing a car battery, you should always attach the positive terminal first (unless you have a weird British car with a positive ground frame). The reason you do this is, once the positive terminal is installed, accidently touching the negative terminal to any metal part of the car (for example, by dropping a wrench in a way that touches the negative terminal and the frame of the car) completes the circuit as normal with all the car's protection circuits in the loop, and 12 volts is so low there is almost no risk of shock if you accidently complete the circuit with your body. If you install the negative terminal first, then if you accidently touch the positive terminal of the battery to any metal part of the car besides the positive cable, you will short the battery, and it will try to dump its full rated current of 600+ amps through what ever you touched it to and the negative cable. Because the frame is ground and directly connected to the negative of the battery, there is no current protection to save you from this mistake. Another example of how this could become dangerous is if, after installing the negative terminal of the battery, you go to install the positive terminal, and while tightening the positive cable, your wrench or tool contacts the frame at the same time, you will short the battery. For the same reasons as above, when removing a car battery, you should always disconnect the negative terminal first, or if you're just disconnecting the battery to do work on the electrical system, the negative terminal is the one you should disconnect.
Absolutely correct and detailed video for people who is willing to listen. BUT. For those who just want to know how to stick your probe to something and get it "fixed" "quickly", please CLOSE the video and DO NOT TOUCH ELECTRICITY! Watch the whole video first if you want to "play" with live electricity! You might not only playing with YOUR life, but others as well, if you perform dodgy repairs! Be warned. Thanks for the video!
Of course he did. I found it on my startpage. I sort of live in simbiosis with the algorithm. It shows me videos that really fit in with what I'm interested in at the moment. I rely on it to get new content. By the way! Finally!!! I have been waiting for this video for a long time. It's filling a big gap in my journey of learning to understand what's going on in electronics land. I started my journey in electronics land on this channel. 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻 🙏🏼🙏🏼🙏🏼 Just yesterday it happens to be that I realised, that I feel comfortable now; being able to follow what is shown in all these videos. Finally. By today I declare myself a well enough educated citizen of electronics land. Following the paths ahead of me. With a much better insight and a relaxed mind. It feels like it took me three years. I'm not sure about that. Will look that up some time. So thank you for being part of it and giving me the opportunity to make my first steps. You guys are really good educaters and the channel also evolved really good. Thank you for being there. Kurt
When I was in college back in 99, the Fluke rep came to visit us. A few of my classmates bought a meter (model 88? 98?) but I couldn't afford their outrageously priced stuff. I think our instructor even told us to think really hard before buying one 😜I got out of that industry not long after anyway.
I enjoy this channel, really need refreshers, and more learning and these videos really do help with expanding my knowledge, some things I get lost at, like with 3 phase power, but at least I can go back and watch it again. Thank you
My fluke is my companion, savior, and a money maker. Its accurate, safe, reliable... And most importantly protects me from myself when human errors occur, only to blame on none other than myself. 😅
that depends on the thermocouple ig? His looks like it has the wires exposed, which would corrode (galvanic corrosion), especially over time But they usually have some cap afaik, either some glass, metal or plastic, which can make them safe to dip (it should say that somewhere on the packaging)
You definitely can. I use my DMM (MTP make), when working on fire alarm systems and would use the clamp for the DC currents that are in the system. Just make sure your meter is set to the proper mode.
my favourite meter is an ancient Fluke10. a bit low on features by modern standards, but it just works and it's yearly calibration never results in any adjustment
I use Klein and fluke meters. However, when I had to troubleshoot a non-working air conditioning compressor, I used a Klein CL800 (I rotate meters yearly for calibration purposes only). I could not find why the compressor was not working, but the fuses were popping. Another guy comes in with his fluke, sets it to continuity (same as me), and saw that the compressor was grounded. The Klein could not find it. My diagnosis was incorrect, and kept the unit down an extra month because we had to replace both compressors, not just the one. In short, buy fluke. If it’s just a hobby, buy a cheaper fluke. I’m currently in the process of replacing my Klein meters, and will pass them down to my son when he starts learning about the trades.
@@modorangeorge4991Yep, sponsored marketing taken a little too seriously when someone really believes you need a certain brand to find a ground continuity 😂
I still have mine and will use them periodically. I find my digital meter (with the clamp), makes it much easier when measuring current as I don't have to disconnect any wires for this. Yup, I confess I'm a tad lazy.😏
I remember trying to measure dc current in an appliance wire using a clamp meter clamped over both of the conductors. It was my first time using it despite seeing it in action many times, so it took me some time to figure out why it didn't work...
very good information, im learning and want to be more electricity smart, no electrician schooling and My understanding has grown no expert but definintly learned something
It's strange hearing a British guy call live 'hot' and demonstrate on an american outlet but im guessing its what Fluke wanted. That Fluke meter is really smart but for £600 I don't think I could convice my boss to get me one.
Dammit HellokittyFanM...if you don;t like the video and information provided, start your own channel and make your own videos? Thanks again The Engineering Mindset!
Very good video that covers the basics. Very annoying to me that some selector dials don't have a white or black dot indicating pointer position. Easy to have the wrong function selected by accident, such as on Ohms when measuring voltage. I end up marking the selector arrow with paint, white out, or marker pen.
You could also connect clamp meters in series with other clamp meters or multimeters just like how you would connect batteries in series to combine their voltages. This combines the voltages of the diode test functions so that you could test LEDs that you otherwise wouldn't be able to test with a single clamp meter or multimeter. Or you could connect a multimeter or a clamp meter in series with any battery to achieve the same results. If the battery's voltage exceeds the LED's required voltage, it will not fry the LED if it (the battery) is connected in series with a clamp or multimeter.
Great video but 2 quick questions: 1) If a Meter has a Min/Max function, is a different option still needed to measure InRush current? 2) If an Amp / Current function is selectable on a Clamp meter does that means readings could be captured via Clamps OR Probes? In other words, if a Clamp meter has a selection for AC Current and Voltage and a different selection for DC Current and Voltage, then it automatic that the Clamp can perform all 4 functions?
Thank you, glad you enjoyed. The min/max will not capture the inrush, it will capture some of it but it won't be the full wave. The probes shouldn't be used and should be disconnected for current readings. I haven't seen one that can do both, they might exist, probably it needs a separate function to work.
Yes a DMM energies the circuit for continuity and resistance checks, but only the voltage of the onboard battery so it's only a few volts (3v to 9v depending on batteries used) and wouldn't damage components.
In the ad about fluke you said a calmp meter can measure voltage through the clamp. Between which two points does it measure the voltage? I don't get this.
I’d like to ask everyone’s opinion on what OL means on these meters. My research has shown it to indicate Over Load or Over limit. I’ve had this debate with other electronics techs. Most seem to agree with it meaning Open Loop. I respectfully disagree. I have a Fluke 117 and it can measure up to 60 Mohms, if I were to test a higher value resistance would I see OL? Clearly that would not be an open loop. I haven’t tested out my theory. What are your thoughts?
One article on the Fluke website states "If the measurement is higher than the set range, the multimeter will display OL (overload). The most accurate measurement is obtained at the lowest possible range setting without overloading the multimeter." I tend to use, and probably did in this video, OL to mean open loop for continuity and Outside limits for resistance. It's not official terminology (according to their article) but I find it easier to visualise. www.fluke.com/en-gb/learn/blog/digital-multimeters/accuracy-precision
Your link says 738 FC instead of 378 FC FYI - The link didn't work the first time I tried it, then the second time it shows it but says it is "Currently Unavailable"
Yes, they sure do, I've covered the subject a few times, but in many of my illustrations, I use conventional current as it's the standard. Also, each time I use electron flow I get a tidal wave of dislikes, negative and abusive comments from people who were never taught electron flow v conventional current.
@@EngineeringMindset I understand your reasoning, and it makes sense from a content creator's point of view. I think the reason that it bugs me is that I grew up in the 70's and even though solid state electronics was present and taking over tubes, I learned vacuum tube theory before transistors because I was introduced to a book (when I was 9 years old) called "Elements Of Radio." It was an old early version prior to the invention of the transistor. It would be interesting to see someone do a video on vacuum tube technology and which way they would go with conventional current vs reality. Thanks for your reply.
me, working with low current sub 30V, ah yes "do not try to repair it" do you mean shove a magnet wire in there? (damaged but working devices are fine to repair as long as you're not working with voltages over 30V, though even 80V dc will be relatively safe, but you still need to be careful if your device is damaged. basically, don't but if you know what you are doing you can, repairing will probably make your voltage rating lower, so a 600V rated cable with tape on it might only protect for 200V or so.) though yeah if you have the money to buy a new one repurpose the old cable/multimeter to a project where it's safe to do so.
For clarification, I only received the 378FC for free, I already owed and personally purchased the 325, 117, 115 and NCV stick. Bought them over a few years during sales and black Friday deals. They are expensive but they are high quality and reliable many professionals want to be seen by clients using professional grade equipment. But, I also own several cheaper Kaiweets meters which I don't mind so much about getting damaged or lost, so depending on what I'm doing I'll use either.
This one is not really that expensive for a professional tester. They get a lot more expensive than this model. Also Flukes are really meant for more rugged use.
Why not purchase a fluke 101 or 86? Both of these are very good meters. They are also under 100$ for Fluke quality and precision. No blue tooth or anything like that in them, but they do the basics very well.
*This free video took WEEKS to make!* If you’d like to support Paul’s efforts, links below:
👑Get your PDF clamp meter tutorial here: tinyurl.com/PDF-Clamp-Meter
📽Watch ad-free here: www.patreon.com/theengineeringmindset
Great well researched video 👍
0:12 😂😂😂 Electric shock
I think this may be the first time I saw Fluke as a sponsor.
Yeah I've never seen that either
They dont need to sponsor. Everybody in any somewhat related field knows its fluke or its trash.
@@dannythompson1948I only buy fluke. I own five flukes 😌
@@dannythompson1948 Really? Fluke is good but isn't the only good brand. Have you ever even heard of Brymen or Fieldpiece?
Same. This guy got the hook up for sure.
finally real sponsor. instead of other useless services and products you only find in yt
I only accept useful and relevant sponsorsors. I turn down all games, crypto, fashion, makeup, trading, shaving clubs etc etc despite high offers on a weekly basis.
Gaymes are uselful@@EngineeringMindset
@@EngineeringMindset respect 😎
@@2-BIT_OfficialGameDEV +1
Wow you really blew my mind by showing me a DC current and then explaining why the AC-only meter was not measuring any current.
When I was starting out, I was told to check to ensure the clamp meter I was going to buy had both the AC and DC current modes. Glad I did. Had to return the first one as I forgot the advice I was given. The meter I bought more than 12 years ago still serves me very well.
Need me one of those new flukes I'm due an upgrade.
Back in the day when I was a young ish spark there was no such thing as a DC clamp meter ( only some crappy thing from snap on for cars. Can’t remember when DC meters came out mid to late 90’s ? These cost about ten times the price of an AC meter ( probably a weeks wage) now we buy them at throwaway money. Sooner or later we all accedently smoked an old analogue AVO by forgetting it was left on ohms, if you were lucky it just popped the fuse, if not you were looking at a couple of days wage for a new one 😳
I like how you said "qualified and competent"😄
I'm trained and competent (not qualified) and have had so-called professionals reported to the ombudsman successfully a few times.
I thought I was a pro now I feel like a newb ❤ thank you for sharing your info very much!
So cool to review clamp-on meters again. My first college co-op job in the late 60’s was to repair these and I learned so much. Back then, nearly all meters were made in USA and analog.
Thanks for all you do informing techs. I swear your breakdowns and narrations are more thorough and easy to understand than most trade schools. ❤
Very comprehensive. You have taken a long time to make this video thank you
Absolutely great video, it is insane how much I learned for your channel. Thank you Paul for all your work!
Great to hear!
I know this is an ad, but as an ordinary electrician fluke is all you really see. Even among instrument techs (thet calibrate sensors, sensors which control valves), the 789 is the preferred choice.
I learnt a lot from this - particularly the use of hall effect sensors for DC current sensing!! That's incredibly cool - however, I do have a couple of things to mention:
- The directions for current flow used with the clamp-type DC multimeters is called conventional current (TEM obviously know this and the video is correct, but just some added detail). Technically speaking, current flows from negative to positive (electron flow) but that's just confusing and unnecessary for most people
- Compounding from the previous point, connecting the neutral/negative first is almost always a good idea, but it won't save you. Car chassis are tied to battery negative, so you should always connect negative first because it can't short against the chassis whereas connecting the positive first means your circuit could short against the chassis. The same idea mostly applies with household circuitry - neutral and ground are tied together, so _theoretically_ you remain in phase with any current if you ground yourself accidentally. However, shorting to literal "ground" (i.e. touching grass) will hurt just as much as putting hot to the same location.
I think you missed something in your point about not always connecting the negative/neutral first. You didn't give an example of when it's appropriate to connect to positive first. You mentioned car batteries, so I think you may have intended to mention that when installing a car battery, you should always attach the positive terminal first (unless you have a weird British car with a positive ground frame).
The reason you do this is, once the positive terminal is installed, accidently touching the negative terminal to any metal part of the car (for example, by dropping a wrench in a way that touches the negative terminal and the frame of the car) completes the circuit as normal with all the car's protection circuits in the loop, and 12 volts is so low there is almost no risk of shock if you accidently complete the circuit with your body.
If you install the negative terminal first, then if you accidently touch the positive terminal of the battery to any metal part of the car besides the positive cable, you will short the battery, and it will try to dump its full rated current of 600+ amps through what ever you touched it to and the negative cable. Because the frame is ground and directly connected to the negative of the battery, there is no current protection to save you from this mistake.
Another example of how this could become dangerous is if, after installing the negative terminal of the battery, you go to install the positive terminal, and while tightening the positive cable, your wrench or tool contacts the frame at the same time, you will short the battery.
For the same reasons as above, when removing a car battery, you should always disconnect the negative terminal first, or if you're just disconnecting the battery to do work on the electrical system, the negative terminal is the one you should disconnect.
Absolutely correct and detailed video for people who is willing to listen. BUT. For those who just want to know how to stick your probe to something and get it "fixed" "quickly", please CLOSE the video and DO NOT TOUCH ELECTRICITY! Watch the whole video first if you want to "play" with live electricity! You might not only playing with YOUR life, but others as well, if you perform dodgy repairs! Be warned.
Thanks for the video!
Of course he did. I found it on my startpage.
I sort of live in simbiosis with the algorithm. It shows me videos that really fit in with what I'm interested in at the moment.
I rely on it to get new content.
By the way!
Finally!!! I have been waiting for this video for a long time. It's filling a big gap in my journey of learning to understand what's going on in electronics land.
I started my journey in electronics land on this channel. 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻 🙏🏼🙏🏼🙏🏼
Just yesterday it happens to be that I realised, that I feel comfortable now; being able to follow what is shown in all these videos. Finally.
By today I declare myself a well enough educated citizen of electronics land. Following the paths ahead of me. With a much better insight and a relaxed mind.
It feels like it took me three years. I'm not sure about that. Will look that up some time.
So thank you for being part of it and giving me the opportunity to make my first steps. You guys are really good educaters and the channel also evolved really good.
Thank you for being there.
Kurt
When I was in college back in 99, the Fluke rep came to visit us. A few of my classmates bought a meter (model 88? 98?) but I couldn't afford their outrageously priced stuff. I think our instructor even told us to think really hard before buying one 😜I got out of that industry not long after anyway.
I enjoy this channel, really need refreshers, and more learning and these videos really do help with expanding my knowledge, some things I get lost at, like with 3 phase power, but at least I can go back and watch it again. Thank you
Can't wait to give a shot of clamp meter fluke. Thank you for my request for a video of clamp meter. ❤
I believe an alternator makes AC current hence its name. It is converted to dc by a rectifier. Unlike a generator that makes Dc
My fluke is my companion, savior, and a money maker. Its accurate, safe, reliable... And most importantly protects me from myself when human errors occur, only to blame on none other than myself. 😅
What is the model?
@@mdinjamulhaquesardar mine is 378
@@mdinjamulhaquesardar 1587 FC. I'm an HVAC technician, this meter is perfectly suited for my line of work.
I submerged my k thermocouple all the time in water. Why is it said don’t do that? Works great for me. Most excellent video!
that depends on the thermocouple ig?
His looks like it has the wires exposed, which would corrode (galvanic corrosion), especially over time
But they usually have some cap afaik, either some glass, metal or plastic, which can make them safe to dip (it should say that somewhere on the packaging)
I didn’t know that you could do dc with a clamp. So was good to learn
It's literally on the meter.
You definitely can. I use my DMM (MTP make), when working on fire alarm systems and would use the clamp for the DC currents that are in the system. Just make sure your meter is set to the proper mode.
I too have metravi clamp meter ,but after your video I know all the functions and tricks
Thank you. 😊
I don't need a 378FC, but I want a 378FC, but I can't afford a 378FC.
my favourite meter is an ancient Fluke10. a bit low on features by modern standards, but it just works and it's yearly calibration never results in any adjustment
I use Klein and fluke meters. However, when I had to troubleshoot a non-working air conditioning compressor, I used a Klein CL800 (I rotate meters yearly for calibration purposes only). I could not find why the compressor was not working, but the fuses were popping. Another guy comes in with his fluke, sets it to continuity (same as me), and saw that the compressor was grounded. The Klein could not find it. My diagnosis was incorrect, and kept the unit down an extra month because we had to replace both compressors, not just the one.
In short, buy fluke. If it’s just a hobby, buy a cheaper fluke. I’m currently in the process of replacing my Klein meters, and will pass them down to my son when he starts learning about the trades.
I will take your advice.
Certainly not the meter was the problem there.
@@modorangeorge4991Yep, sponsored marketing taken a little too seriously when someone really believes you need a certain brand to find a ground continuity 😂
Your videos are always top notch
And somehow I watched this for fun...
Very informative though.
I get along just fine with my analog meters
I still have mine and will use them periodically. I find my digital meter (with the clamp), makes it much easier when measuring current as I don't have to disconnect any wires for this.
Yup, I confess I'm a tad lazy.😏
I remember trying to measure dc current in an appliance wire using a clamp meter clamped over both of the conductors. It was my first time using it despite seeing it in action many times, so it took me some time to figure out why it didn't work...
very good information, im learning and want to be more electricity smart, no electrician schooling and My understanding has grown no expert but definintly learned something
It's strange hearing a British guy call live 'hot' and demonstrate on an american outlet but im guessing its what Fluke wanted. That Fluke meter is really smart but for £600 I don't think I could convice my boss to get me one.
This was great, thank you! Another video on these same topics for 3 phase electric systems would be awesome 🤩
3 Phase is covered in this video, but our next video is on 3 phase systems, I'll tag you
TY for the video but I Wasn't ready for this much information, now I'm floating..
Dammit HellokittyFanM...if you don;t like the video and information provided, start your own channel and make your own videos? Thanks again The Engineering Mindset!
when you use clamp meter, and the display accurately reads 30.17 Amps- :D
it's clamped to a water pipe- D:
I want that fluke meter even though I know I really don't need it. That is really cool.
Thanks. The video helped me understand multimeters better. I usually use analog meters so can you elaborate on it?
Very good video that covers the basics. Very annoying to me that some selector dials don't have a white or black dot indicating pointer position. Easy to have the wrong function selected by accident, such as on Ohms when measuring voltage. I end up marking the selector arrow with paint, white out, or marker pen.
You're absolutly great
Fewer functions. Not "less functions". ;)
Excellent presentation
Nice and valuable video. Btw it scared me at 11:48 ;-) Greetings!
Awesome introduction 👍 Love Flukes.
You could also connect clamp meters in series with other clamp meters or multimeters just like how you would connect batteries in series to combine their voltages. This combines the voltages of the diode test functions so that you could test LEDs that you otherwise wouldn't be able to test with a single clamp meter or multimeter. Or you could connect a multimeter or a clamp meter in series with any battery to achieve the same results. If the battery's voltage exceeds the LED's required voltage, it will not fry the LED if it (the battery) is connected in series with a clamp or multimeter.
If you get the correct reading, its a Fluke!
can you recommend on a comprehensive online course / book of electricity and electronics mainly about fixing circuit boards?
my clamp meter poem: clamp meter, you make me feel alive
i couldnt do it without you, i would die
One thing that needs to be mentioned is when using a clamp meter for DC current measurements, remember to ZERO or REL the meter.
Can you please make a video on “Whats is Impedance,Resistance and Reactance” and whats the difference between them it will help me alot
In essence, resistance and reactance are specific types of opposition to current, while impedance is the overall opposition combining both.
Can DC voltage be tested with the clamp or just current?
Yes, please see the section on DC voltage
Excellent video! 👏👍
Loving this video! Good job
Sir please make a complete video on EMI & RFI Filters
Great video but 2 quick questions:
1) If a Meter has a Min/Max function, is a different option still needed to measure InRush current?
2) If an Amp / Current function is selectable on a Clamp meter does that means readings could be captured via Clamps OR Probes? In other words, if a Clamp meter has a selection for AC Current and Voltage and a different selection for DC Current and Voltage, then it automatic that the Clamp can perform all 4 functions?
Thank you, glad you enjoyed. The min/max will not capture the inrush, it will capture some of it but it won't be the full wave.
The probes shouldn't be used and should be disconnected for current readings. I haven't seen one that can do both, they might exist, probably it needs a separate function to work.
Gracias x los detalles, saludos desde Chile
😂😂😂😂0:12 Electric shock
Thanks!
Thank you!
11:48 Is a jumpscare
I love these videos!!
Beautiful ˋ Clasś´ on multimeter
Use……..!
Good video - thanks
“Do not use in wet conditions”… every HVAC tech: 😂
How does measuring resistance work? Does it energize the probes with certain voltage? Is it enough to fry sensitive components?
Yes a DMM energies the circuit for continuity and resistance checks, but only the voltage of the onboard battery so it's only a few volts (3v to 9v depending on batteries used) and wouldn't damage components.
Thank you upload a new video I was waiting
Field piece has left the chat.
Hi just need some video for , which DMM is best to use for Audio Video products servicing..
I love you all vedios
10:35 hmmm yes current is measured in Volts
Yeah, I also reacted to that flaw. I was surprised that this happened.
Thanks for this video ❤❤❤
In the ad about fluke you said a calmp meter can measure voltage through the clamp. Between which two points does it measure the voltage? I don't get this.
awesome video thank you
10:34 wrong units... measure curent and display V ??
Some clamps meters has PICK and INRUSH current features, together or only one...what is difference, can you made one episode for that?
nice one
Finally face revealed at the end
Thanks again
How does it caculate both voltage and current from the clamp?
Can u explain how SD cards storage information?
Good information
Please make vedio on true rms multimeters
Need to see how I can wangle one of these at work.
I’d like to ask everyone’s opinion on what OL means on these meters. My research has shown it to indicate Over Load or Over limit. I’ve had this debate with other electronics techs. Most seem to agree with it meaning Open Loop. I respectfully disagree. I have a Fluke 117 and it can measure up to 60 Mohms, if I were to test a higher value resistance would I see OL? Clearly that would not be an open loop. I haven’t tested out my theory. What are your thoughts?
One article on the Fluke website states "If the measurement is higher than the set range, the multimeter will display OL (overload). The most accurate measurement is obtained at the lowest possible range setting without overloading the multimeter." I tend to use, and probably did in this video, OL to mean open loop for continuity and Outside limits for resistance. It's not official terminology (according to their article) but I find it easier to visualise.
www.fluke.com/en-gb/learn/blog/digital-multimeters/accuracy-precision
Sir what is your specification in education
Can you make video' for three phase motor connections convert to single phase connections how
I have a 387
True rms clamp meter
When i switch to continuity and i check ac voltage
It’s open loop
It’s show a resistance and beep
I noticed on all my devices that NCV goes off when you bump the meter mechanically. Why is that?
How small amp can it detect?
can you teach me how to measure wire using ohms
Your link says 738 FC instead of 378 FC
FYI - The link didn't work the first time I tried it, then the second time it shows it but says it is "Currently Unavailable"
Great video and graphics but one thing bugs me. Electricity (electrons) flow from negative to positive. Think vacuum tubes and CRT displays.
Yes, they sure do, I've covered the subject a few times, but in many of my illustrations, I use conventional current as it's the standard. Also, each time I use electron flow I get a tidal wave of dislikes, negative and abusive comments from people who were never taught electron flow v conventional current.
@@EngineeringMindset I understand your reasoning, and it makes sense from a content creator's point of view. I think the reason that it bugs me is that I grew up in the 70's and even though solid state electronics was present and taking over tubes, I learned vacuum tube theory before transistors because I was introduced to a book (when I was 9 years old) called "Elements Of Radio." It was an old early version prior to the invention of the transistor. It would be interesting to see someone do a video on vacuum tube technology and which way they would go with conventional current vs reality. Thanks for your reply.
Sir your all vedio is the best on CZcams chanel.please make video on ic details in hindi language please.
I would like to get a hot mug, for my coffee. Do you sell those too?
Sure do have mugs, check the store link in video description
21:27 Capacitors
How to Fluke like a master.
My fluke 319 not working not measuring amps ac and dc both plz give me any solution
At 10:38 should be "A" not "V"
16:31 Should show minus 9.4 volts and not minus 8.8 volts
me, working with low current sub 30V, ah yes "do not try to repair it" do you mean shove a magnet wire in there? (damaged but working devices are fine to repair as long as you're not working with voltages over 30V, though even 80V dc will be relatively safe, but you still need to be careful if your device is damaged. basically, don't but if you know what you are doing you can, repairing will probably make your voltage rating lower, so a 600V rated cable with tape on it might only protect for 200V or so.)
though yeah if you have the money to buy a new one repurpose the old cable/multimeter to a project where it's safe to do so.
A charged capacitor voltage can measure by multimeter.. Why cant?
Must be nice when Fluke sends you free meters when their test gear is unaffordable for the small tech shops
For clarification, I only received the 378FC for free, I already owed and personally purchased the 325, 117, 115 and NCV stick. Bought them over a few years during sales and black Friday deals. They are expensive but they are high quality and reliable many professionals want to be seen by clients using professional grade equipment. But, I also own several cheaper Kaiweets meters which I don't mind so much about getting damaged or lost, so depending on what I'm doing I'll use either.
This one is not really that expensive for a professional tester. They get a lot more expensive than this model. Also Flukes are really meant for more rugged use.
Why not purchase a fluke 101 or 86? Both of these are very good meters. They are also under 100$ for Fluke quality and precision. No blue tooth or anything like that in them, but they do the basics very well.