front axle capacity vs loader strength
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- čas přidán 26. 07. 2024
- Are tractors becoming disposable? We are reaching a point where the lift capacity of many loaders is exceeding the weight capacity of the front axle. Pulling out the set of racecar scales to test how much weight is put on the front axle when the front loader is loaded to spec.
Science! The relationship of Ballast and Weight Distribution.
• Science! The relations...
00:00 - Industry Trends
01:18 - Published Specs
02:23 - Loader Capacity vs Front Axle Capacity
03:11 - Testing the Deere Subcompact
05:05 - Testing the Kubota B23S
06:13 - Front Axle Repairs are Common
07:26 - Generational Tractors or Disposable Equipment?
08:15 - Just make the front axles heavier
09:18 - What are your expectations?
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I think you should have added rear ballast and showed how that takes weight off the front axles with the same load. This would highlight the importance of rear ballast for not only safety reasons but equipment protection and longevity.
This.
And cover why adding weight in the rear tires doesn’t unload the front axle the way ballast on the 3pt does.
@@lindseygoudge4243 that's interesting. It makes sense that leverage behind the tires has a different effect than the tires themselves.
@@lindseygoudge4243 Thank you for this comment. I was thinking of adding wheel weights to my BX2680 but not only would it be a more permanent install as it would be a pain to try and remove/reinstall them myself....but now after reading your comment I'm glad I haven't rushed into anything, and actually have planned on just building a weight box of some sort that I can hang suitcase weights on, or fill with sand/gravel.
To expand on your post, boltaction, in a very real sense there is a limit to how much you SHOULD pick up and move around with a sub or compact especially.
Its a big safety thing. Those are not very big or heavy machines- but all the laws of physics still apply. Just because it "can" doesnt mean you should.
Best advice: if you really need significantly more loader capacity, you need a bigger, heavier duty tractor. (Thats why there are a dizzying array of different models available) Correctly ballasting your machine shpuld always be a must, as well.
I think front axle capacities should be published. As a relatively new tractor owner, and engineer, I think the key to getting the most out of your front end loader while saving your front axle is the addition of ballast weight behind the rear axle.
I think what I’m curious about after reading your comment is how many pounds ballast weight it takes to remove a pound of weight off the front axle.
You say engineer?? weight on the back keeps the vehicle on the ground, the same weight is on the front axle when you lift the 1000 LBS. the front axle is the pivot point.
@@jimputnam2044 Weight behind the rear axle will try to lift the front axle, using the rear axle as the pivot point. Simple physics. Also, many tractor videos describing it.
Neil did a video with pressure pads showing this. Or was it Tim? Maybe both. Regardless. Ballast behind the rear axle is more effective than wheel weights.
@@jagx234 Yes but it does not take weight off the front axle...axle is still the pivot point.
Neil, you are so AWESOME at delivering the message where I can understand it. And. . . You know what we are thinking. I was thinking about, “hey why don’t they just beef up the front axle?” And. . . You covered it. Thanks so much for all your videos. I’ve learned so much.
Last summer I bought a new Kubota L4701 with the express purpose of managing large round bales. The tire pressure for the front tires in the manual is 20 psi. The first round bale we lifted (about 1200 lbs) caused the front tires to look flat. We had to increase the tire pressure to manage the load. These heavy loads do put a lot of pressure on the front axles.
Neil, you had an earlier video where you measured hydraulic pressures in different situations. Along those lines, I worry more when I'm bouncing over my rough field with a bucket full of green firewood. The dynamic loads on both the hydraulics and the front axle must be really high at times. My solution is to slow down, reduce the bouncing, and try not to stress my Kubota LX2610 to its limits. Thanks for your videos.
Great point - what is the shock load capacity for the front axle? We know the load is carried by a center pin, this acts as a pivot point for a point load between the front tires. The leverage pressure must be tremendous while travelling with a FEL bucket full of gravel over rough terrain? (considering the BX23s has a heavy backhoe for ballast)
This would be nice to know. Most dealers don't have a clue until a bunch of warranty claims come in.
Neil, THANK YOU for this video. It's to the point. Plus, it gets people thinking about these axles. I also appreciate you trying to stay neutral in your comments between JD and Kubota. I highly respect you for putting out good information- while not crossing a line. Oh... FYI I own a 2038R..... Again, Thank you.
My 20 yr old Cub Cadet 7305 with 1320hrs runs like a champ for mowing. I just bought a L2501DT for the loader and it will last me my lifetime.
For me, I consider price, performance and capacity and longevity. With today's pricing, I want a tractor that is going to last a LONG time. Deere has probably the best attachment systems on the market for most attachments, but that is it. The loader is the heart of my tractor, so hydraulic flow and lift capacity is key to me folllowed by drawbar HP. Having said that, I believe manufactures should make a front axle that can handle 2 times more then the loader can lift.
Great stuff. We just invested in a 23s to support our DIY ‘heavy’ landscaping. Our expectations for our machine are more short lived than generational. That said, you got us thinking about how we could extend the life of our machine. Thank you, Neil.
Great video. Very informative and thought provoking. Thanks for making this video!
Fascinating video Neil 👍👍
Very informative, I have a bx 24 since 2009 and it’s still running great, the plan was to keep it for a very long time.
And you will indeed keep it a long time. Kubotas are built very good in my opinion.
Great video Neil. Safety is of my utmost concern when using my loader or forks. Published capacities are very helpful, if the consumer understands what they are reading and how to interpret it. My BX23s behaves very differently and can handle 200lbs of material in the bucket, than it does with 200lbs of honey supers on a pallet with the forks on (I keep the backhoe on for such tasks as ballast). The difference is the distance of the weight distribution from the font axle - makes a huge difference, so it is a "reduce the load, slow down and take it easy approach" to all things when using the forks. I also have been impressed with the quality of my purchase - hI am thinking that with proper care it will last like the Farmall A my in laws had on their farm until they retired.
💥 Great topic for a video. This make a lot of sense and is important for so many who want to shim their relief valve. This really emphasizes rear ballast importance. 👍
*Keep on tractoring!*
Neil, I grew up in a green dealership and know of many older tractors that are still working great but they are not over building like they did in the 60s and 70s. Everything you mentioned all comes down to profit. Yes the older tractors lasted 50, 60, 70 years with proper maintenance so this affected sales of new equipment. You are correct the throw away world we live in finally reached the tractor market. I have a Kubota B with a pin on front bucket and I am more than happy with the capacity. I know many of these tractors are for work not play like I do but this greed of saving 2 minutes or 1 load will cost the owner more in the long run when they must buy a new tractor in 5 to 10 years. I expect to have this tractor for the rest of my life with proper maintenance and care but you cant hotdog these tractors like you could with the older models.
Thank you Sir for the update!
Always appreciate your fairness
Late to the party, but this is such a good video. This stuff should really be published and easily available to consumers.
Great video, Neil!👍🏻
Very good video, and excellent points made. Especially for me who is in the market for a 73-75HP machine, and has ACTIVELY been seeking a machine with the higher advertised lift capacity of the FEL. I hadn't considered the FAWR before. Now I'll have to do that. I appreciate you broaching this subject.
Neil, excellent video, and interesting. Know a friend who bought a Branson, as it claimed higher loader capacity and have wondered about the same issues you brought up here. Thanks for an excellent video and conversation starter.
Excellent info. I have a 15 yr old L5740 with 2200 hrs. I use it often and mostly using the front loader with grapple or bucket. Many times I’ve had to switch to 4wd to get traction to move because most weight was on front tires, way too much weight. I do worry that I might damage the front axle, but haven’t so far.
I think you should be able to choose a heavy duty or regular duty axle when picking options for your tractor. Makes a difference what you plan to use your tractor for. Of course, as tight as supplies are now, I doubt you could get what you want anyway.
Well, I've learned a little bit from reading the comments here. First, it's kind of frightening to see how many people can't spell "axle" correctly. (Kind of like those people who list a "KABOTA for sale" with a picture of a tractor with "KUBOTA" clearly visible on the side of the tractor, or a "John Deer" with a photo of the tractor with "John Deere" in yellow paint clearly visible).🤪 Second, and more to the point, I think it's great that you've done videos like this, to get people to think about those purchases, because apparently not a lot of people do enough to research before making a purchase.
Thank you for this video. I will think of it every time I try to fully fill my bucket. Maybe I can pour a little out to be lighter and safer. Thanks again.keep it up.
Great video, Neil. This is why I chose the MX 5800. I didn't have specs. to go by but the beefy look of the front axle and width of the tires also they used a cat.2 3-point hitch on the rear end showed me that Kubota designed this model for strength.
This is great advice, shopping by the numbers isn't enough. I see more steel in the fel than the axle on many machines.
I have grand L4060 and the front axle looks like a tree log made of metal its very beefy - I have moved hundreds of thousands of lbs of dirt over the last 80 hours of tractor use and its as tough as anything I have tossed at it.
@@tangoseal1 Good to hear! I love spending time on my Kubota. I believe that Kubota makes some of the finest equipment in the world. Be safe and have fun.
Really good video to show front axle weights. Seeing as you used the BX23S, could you show how the backhoe installed affects the weight distribution! I leave mine on most of the time for that purpose.
I'm not sure what the weight of the BX backhoe is, but I'd bet it weighs more than my box blade or my roto-tiller...so having the backhoe one while doing loader work would probably be your best ballast option since it sits behind the rear axle...only issue of course would be space limitations but I think you could curl the backhoe in pretty tight and angle it left or right, compared to having a rear implement installed as ballast that can't be moved.
@@wildbill23c The stock backhoe is just over 600lbs I believe. Mine has a quick attach and thumb as well, and it really helps balance the tractor with a full bucket load. My question to Neil is how much it helps to take the weight off of the front axle. Normally, an operator would have an external ballast on the rear when they load up the bucket, so showing the weight without ballast seems a bit unconventional. Neil really does show that a ballast in the rear is required to use the front bucket to it's full potential, but there should be a part 2 showing the safe way to ballast and balance the weight towards the center of the load triangle.
@@brentholmes3339 600lbs yes. About 2 foot behind the pivot pin? So maybe 4 foot behind the rear axle? Whereas weight in the loader bucket is about 10 foot or more in front of the rear axle? So you're offsetting maybe 200-250lbs in the front bucket? Which is some, but not as much as you might hope ultimately.
I've wondered that as I take full buckets of dirt around our farm. Good topic Neil! Tractor Hard! 🚜💪!
You began with talking about the reliability of the old tractors. My dad got his IH dealership in 1937 and being born in 1945, I got to spend a lot of time repairing those Farmall H & M, Cubs, A's, and C's. Then off to a 44 year career and back to farming buying my first tractor, a Kubota L3710. CUT so not in the same class as a mainline farm tractor H or M. I traded it off on a cab L5740 after 12 years with no mechanical problems whereas I had been fast at replacing wheel bearings, transmission bearings, loader cylinder seals, plus welding on the old tractors. Yup, I could keep them going, but compared to my first 2 Kubotas. My L5740 was replaced with a L6060 which was replaced by a M5-111. In addition I have a M7-171 KVT. I especially dread thinking of transmission repair on the M7 KVT but hopefully it is designed for more endurance than a Farmall H or M. Last year I did add an old tractor to my fleet, an Allis-Chalmers D10. less than an hour and it now has a place as yard art. As for axle capacity, yes, the CUTs are not good. However, it was cheap and easy to replace the bearings on my L5740 as they failed. Yes, I used the loader to max capacity a lot so failure was not unexpected as I knew it couldn't handle the load.
Very good unbiased information!
We had a Case 830 2wd with a loader. Great loader tractor of the time with the hydromatic trans but the front axle was the weak point when it left the chat.
Guess the point is be mindful when carrying the heavy loads in the loader and no bouncy bouncy down the path.
Great timing. Yesterday I was trying to find the front axle load capacity for the L3560. Never did find it, just gave up.
Hi Neil! The “three legged stool” arrangement ( front axle being pivoted in the center and the two fixed rear tires) concerns me when lifting with the bucket or forks on my b2601. This tractor can and has picked up enough railway ties to bounce the rear tires off the ground when i got going with the load - yikes! I’ve have since made it a practice to use a ballast box. Be great to see a vid on this! Appreciate your time in doing these vids! John Bell
I do still smile at the bloopers lol
I'm shopping for my first tractor but I wondered about this. Watching videos of newer and older tractors in motion I've seen a number of tractor where the front wheels seemed to move a bit too much. I wondered if it was modern articulating suspensions or if they were cutting corners or designing to narrower tolerances on the smaller machines that are more popular these days.
Thank you for the video. I am an owner of 1994 Bobcat 453 skidsteer with four different bucket; smooth, toothed, home made 42” forklift, and a 48” rock bucket. My biggest complaint is Bobcat changed its tool plate from a side pin (which all my buckets are), to a bottom pin. I want a grapple, so I am thinking about an add on grapple by Precision. I am looking at the BX23S, because the dealer is only 7 miles from me. The dealer has several with a plan on bucket.
My Bobcat handles all my front end loader needs on my 2+ acres, we have JD 130 for mowing grass and dragging a little Harbor Freight dump trailer around.
The reason I am looking Kubota is for the behind the tractor implements like the backhoe, pto-powered rototiller, and box scraper. With global warming, I do not fear the snow fall (2-3” 4 times since 1972, near San Francisco). This video makes me happy about the choice, just waiting for the CFO to give me the go ahead.
Thank you for the video.
Thanks for the videos 👍👍👍
For what I’ve seen for trucks is that load specs are limited by tires capacity. I’d take a look at the sidewall of those tires and compare the axle rating to the tires load rating.
Great video.
Thank you for the video
You're right about tractors being a generational investment. There are Farmall M series tractors still in daily use. I bought my JD 770 decades ago. It's reliable as gravity and only needed an upper radiator hose, two light bulbs and scheduled maintenance. It has an all mechanical Diesel engine and except for the fuel shutoff solenoid would be happy to run without and electrical system. Not trading it in on a newer tractor while it still runs.
I bought my Kubota RDT900W in 2004. It's still in almost daily use with 3,200 hours on it. I have upgraded it with the one piece front drive shaft and had one quirky failure of the injection pump, but other than that, it's been as reliable as gravity.
Great video ! I think if a tractor owner uses common sense and follows manufacturers instructions, they will be fine ! Problem is, a lot folks seem to push their tractors to their limits disregarding manufacturers instructions ! Have a Blessed Day
There is a lot of discussion about JD CUT front axle seals leaking. People are selling $100 vent kits to relieve pressure in the front axle. I discussed this with my dealer and was told they believe it is due to overloading the front axle. There is also a lot of discussion about how much ballast is needed.
Another great video. Alone with the axle load the front tires only have a max load of 780 lbs each total of 1560 lbs
Ive wondered the same thing and if guys pay attention to what their machine can do….ive got a 2020 JD 1025r and have thought this over and why the loader capacity is what it is and why they set it at that number….im all about improving a machine with a better hydro pump or whats best suited for a job i need done, no other video id seen out there on youtube has talked about this, glad you had…makes for a good conversation topic amongst us folks….keep up the good video’s…
Hi Neil When I was driving a BX 2350 we had trouble with the steering ram brackets bending Thanks again
I love this discussion. I have a 2WD B7200E with a loader designed for the 4WD version. I have sheared those front spindles enough to where I have a set of used spares in the garage. The tractor will sit there and load hundreds of pounds up and down all day...but when I move the tractor/load is when I have to be really careful to avoid the unexpected bump. Its still been a fantastic addition for light materials and wouldn't change a thing.
So if they are used does that mean they come from a Boneyard and not broken or repaired?
@@brentanderson3806 correct. I buy them used not repaired. I imagine folks who are better welders than I am could grind the cone shape needed and weld them but I just buy a used one (and try not to do it again next time.) I even looked into buying a used 4WD front axle for this model but too much money. Hope that helps.
@@billprice792 I was just curious. I hope I did not come off abrasive
@@brentanderson3806 you were just fine. I Enjoyed the question.
Great video and good information! Interesting to think about. These are a lot of money and we hope they last a long time!
It would be interesting if you did the same experiment with ballast weight which I think is specified as required for loader work.
I agree, with everything I've got with my BX2680, it was almost $26,000...I'd sure hope it lasts longer than the warranty period by a few dozen years.
Neil covers ballast in the following video:
czcams.com/video/K4pgGJ_Tu9I/video.html
I love how you get into this stuff without bashing the company that’s probably your biggest competitor
It's hard. I made this video three times.
When I went to purchase my tractor, I checked the prices for both. Kubota had it 5 years. Interest-free. John deer, when he quoted the price, I told him abt the interest-free at Kubota. He said they had theirs Interest-free also, then he recalculated and the price was higher. So, it wasn't interest free. That's why I went 2 Kubota. And I have it serviced every year and they come and get it for me at no charge.
We pushed our old B7500 regularly, lifting as much as it could possibly get of the ground..
During the 14 years of ownership.. we had to replace 1 font axel seal..
Never had any other issues Axel issues
As a homeowner with 6ac. Of Forest land and steep grades, I am not one to sneak by with too small equipment! I picked up a M6060 with the Hugh turf tires.. while not thrilled with the tread pattern some of my property is close to large creek (20 ft wide) and the ground is very soft! I just use this tractor occasionally around the house and on the gravel road we live on. Point is I don’t want something that will not handle what I need it for when I need it!
Great video. One item I think you missed is that more and more people are wanting skid/pay loader performance at a tractor price. The fact is these are Tractors with a loader attachment bolted on. I think it would be great to compare the front axels of say a MX series vs a R430.
Very good point. Theyre very different animals. I think Neil could get an entire video.out of that discussion.
They arent cranes, either!
My comment is about the amazement of 70+ year old tractors that are still working today.
Sure, they were built well. But there is more to it. The rapid growth in the size of farms quickly changed how they were used.
If a farmer bought a Farmall M in 1950, it was probably the big tractor on the farm (36 hp). 8 years later the same farmer might have gotten a 560 (66 hp) and now the M got lighter jobs. The same farmer might have added an 806 (100 hp) 5 years later and the M and the 560 both moved on to lighter work.
This along with simple design and being built well accounts for why so many are still out there.
I just bought a Kubota MX5400 last Spring and am now concerned about the capabilities and long term durability of the front axle. In my simplistic mind, the cumulative load of the tractor and any potential weight that is added either to the front or rear via attachments should have been the minimum spec for the front and rear axles. Seems unethical to publish loader capacity numbers that far exceed the capacity of the axles. Thank you for sharing this and please keep the informative videos coming. 👍
It's worth noting that if you read the manual it specifies a minimum amount of rear ballast for FEL work, this is a big part of why. Rear ballast can cancel out the weight on the front axle from the FEL to make it safe to get to those capacities. Messick's did a video on it already: czcams.com/video/K4pgGJ_Tu9I/video.html
Good information, I would have to agree with also following this video up with one showing the rear ballasting and weight distribution off of the front axle. Another good spin off of this video would be to compare the kubota farm tractor models example l30 whatever..., to the true kubota backhoe models l35/47whatever,... and see if the front axles are the same or built stronger on the actual backhoe models....you got a couple of good rabbit holes to go down with this viedo here, thanks' for making it!
One of the reasons I chose my standard L series was how beefy the front axel is, I remember Neil saying Kubota matched the axel to the loader capacity
I watch a lot of firewood guy videos, and it always makes me wince when i see what some guys are trying to lift or pull with sub/compact tractors.
Some of them really need a utility tractor, not a compact... (before they kill themselves) . Some of the small frame utilities are very agile, and can fit in most places you want to go- theyre also WAY beefier, and have beefier loaders and hydraulics. All in all, id much rather be using one of them to pick up big hardwood logs, snake them out of the woods, etc.
I really struggled with this when deciding between an Lx 2610 and an L2501. Ultimately I chose the compactness of the Lx.
Great video Neil,we have a l series Kubota no axle problems but have heard of bearings going out.The tractor is light and will lift and carry a load with rear tires basically off the ground so I would love to see those numbers measured.I have had front tire problems but there is no way they weren't overloaded.I have loaded rear tires plus wheel weights and 3pt winch so when the rears are nearly off the ground is it safe to say all tractor weight plus on loader is on front tires/ axle lets check that weight.I haven't had any problems with the tractor just tires but the front is got to be way over on weight hate to see a cheaper made tractor do this
The new huge shop I see.
A heavy counter weight hanging off the back will take some of that load off the front axle. You should always use rear weights to counter the loader load.
Remember the Deer has a mower deck taking some of the front axle capacity also. As you noted you have no rear end balance, and that's how these companies get away with it. Remember it probably says in the warranty properly weight and balance the product 😊 And that doesn't mean have the wife stand on the drawbar...
Actually I was going to get my husband to act as the counterweight while I worked.
Time to leave the old world behind, girls like tractors too.
Bought a Ford 5000 and first thing I had to rebuild the front axle pivot pin. It had a front-end loader at a diary operation. Mainly round bales.
What happens to the load on the front axle when there is a 3PH attachment or ballast box on the back? I know when I have my backhoe on, my front end is way more bouncy. I would also never consider loading my bucket to the max without proper ballast on the back for safety reasons. This was a great video, and I look forward to more like it. Thank you.
You won't get much weight in the bucket without any rear ballast on these sub-compact tractors, they don't have enough weight in the ass end to keep them on the ground, and as I found out, even my 300lb tiller on the 3 point ain't enough when doing heavier lifting duties with the pallet forks....although I've found my BX can't lift much at all with the pallet forks I have since they're not for a sub-compact tractor....they're for a compact I believe, so they weight about 80-90 pounds more than the sub-compact version, and the forks are 42" VS 36".
I appreciate your channel even though I’m a happy John Deere owner. I know the manual on my 2038R has a section on how to properly ballast the machine for different circumstances and you didn’t mention or address this. I’m still happy that this was not a brand bashing video however. You brought up valid points, but didn’t provide the full Paul Harvey version of this complicated topic . Let’s face it a tractor is a tool to get work done, but it’s just the power source. That Attachments added are what does the work. There’s a lot of variables that go into getting that work done safely. In my opinion, that’s where the industry as a whole is failing its customers. A dealer’s motivation is to make a sale, a manufacturer’s motivation is to design something that people will buy, and a customer’s motivation is to spend as little as possible to get the work they need done. What’s lacking is the education to get the work done safely and an honest conversation between the dealer and customer.
I give you credit for the topics you bring up and for providing an education on surprisingly complex subjects that on the surface seem pretty basic.
Thx. I have another video on how ballast affects the weight distribution. I tend to think of every video that I've ever done and sometimes leave gaps for someone that hasn't seen every video. Essentially every pound of ballast takes about a half a pound off the front axle. It improves the situation, but the basic problem still exists.
@@MessicksEquip the ratio sounds about right to me and the reason I like your videos is you talk about the things that most would not want to discuss as a dealer. Thanks again for your insights and for the tasteful brand bantering, I remember you had Tractor Time with Tim in a video not that long ago. I respect the playful nature of brand comparisons that you provide.
Heavy load/ bucking the dirt pile while spinning front wheels with heavy load and some steering angle = broken final drive wheel bearings. I loaned my Kubota L3430 to a friend who treated it like a rental, he damaged the wheel bearings.
If I’m laying out the money, I want a tractor to last me a lifetime or beyond with little trouble. I currently run a late series Ford 1700 4wd tractor with Ford 770 loader that my grandfather bought new in 1982. I know that early 4wd 1700s with loaders had front axle issues. So far my axle is ok, but I’m working on the kingpin dust seals now and discovered a totally shredded thrust bearing and shot kingpin bushings on one side in the process. Understandably those things don’t last forever given the loads they experience, but you never want to see an axle breaking!
Neil, it would be interesting to demonstrate how the axle loads changes as you pick up a load. The front axle should spike as you lift the load off the ground then drop, then slowly increase as you reach mid lift then drop as you get to full height. The rear axle should do the opposite. The specs on loaders usually give capacity at full height, but that isn't the worst case. Maybe this would people visualize the physics of what is happening.
I would be interested in seeing this. I think your logic is sound, but how much difference does load distance from the front axle actually make?
@@phild9813 if you are operating at the specified capacity of your loader, it may be more significant than you realize. I think that was the point of this video. But he was showing just one case. It may not be the worst case when it comes to front axle loading.
Good content. Agreed with a throw away life style. I feel that is we're the electric business is going, ev ? ... I don't modify. I find myself needing a bigger machine I go get it. You bring up very good concern for safety.
Great video. With the front ends what break the the housing cracking or the bearing going what breaks when we are looking at used equipment
Axle knuckle seals. Well known thing. People run thick oil in the drop boxes to keep them from leaking.
Do we know anything about if those numbers are for a traction in motion or static? I remember one ag tractor manual for way back that listed different speeds. Presumably factoring in how much dynamic pressure it puts on them when the terrain is uneven (but also - you wouldn't try to go full speed across plough furrows). JD being over their spec with just empty bucket I would think means maybe it at full speed isn't rated for having any load in the bucket?
So the impact of this is that with heavy load I drive very slowly.
This is why when I am asked for my opinion I will always tell someone to find the best tractor for your application and then purchase the next larger tractor size overall!!!!!!
i was brush hogging and some how my tire's valve stem got pull out / went missing. just had brand new r-14's put on all the way around. upgraded the stem to an all metal version today but weird, the tractor just plowed straight into the ground once the tire lost air but i didn't know
Thank you for an excellent explanation. Reason I bought the LS MT342 was its lift capacity. I put 1100 lbs in the rear tires and add a 700 pound implement on 3 pt so I can pick up large boulders and move around trees that have fallen on the property. Hopefully it's enough to help protect the front axle. Any idea of the load capacity of the front axle?
Neil Think someone else might have said it but what would ballast on rear do to the numbers?
Would have been curious what the rear axle what was and changed?
I'd like to see this added to by having equal rear ballast in each and see what if anything that changes on the weights.
Adding weight to the rear doesn't take any weight OFF of the front. It actually slightly increases the load on the front a minor amount....but it BALANCES the tractor.
@@evracer Wrong. Watch Neil's followup video he posted.
Per the manual, your supposed to have a counterweight for loader work; wonder what/how that weight on the rear changes the load on the front
if i had a $1 for the ammount of sub compacts ive seen with snapped axles id have enough to buy a big steak dinner
Would the weights help by putting then
M on the back
I order if one reason for increased life of older tractors is the reduced capabilities. As mentioned, they weren’t setup to handle more than they can take. My 53’ NAA is still working with a new owner, but had no FEL and the ones available were basic limited capacity type adaptations.
For me, I went bigger than needed with the MX…biggest demand is round bails and it’s not working hard to lift them. Going with 2wd and gear drive got me the added capacity of bigger tractor for less cost. I think key is focusing on needs over wants.
Wondering if 2wd front axles have less, same or more weight capacity than the 4wd models?
Great video. Im curious if different amounts of ballast lifts some of the weight off the front end? I have a BX23s love it. I also have a older B7200 HST great machine as well as a Ford 9N still able to get up and work. Lets hope the Kubotas make it to be that age. I wont be around but somebody will be happy to have them.
It's called ballast for a reason. It BALANCES the tractor. In no matter of physics does it take weight OFF of the front. Adding total weight to the tractor by adding ballast technically increases the front weight by a minor amount.
@@evracer I understand your reply and it does make sense. I still feel that the see saw puts the little kid in the air while the big kid is on the ground. Im trying to figure why my truck gets much easier to steer the more wood I load in the back. When Im actually putting more weight on the front axle??? I would like to understand it a little better. Thanks
@@evracer Also wrong. Again, watch Neil's followup video.
Neil, How about the kinetic energy generated while driving on bumpy ground? Perhaps, there is a much higher instantaneous force exerted to the front axle hitting a bump or a hole in transit with a full bucket. I always try to keep my bucket as low as I can and dive slowly minding the fact I am not trying to make money and not in a hurry.
For sure there is. That's often what actually causes the failure when it was already stressed without that load.
Hard to design a machine that's small enough to fit in a decent backyard shed, light enough mow the lawn, and strong enough to unload pallets of field stone. Some people really need a compact tractor, a zero-turn, and a fork-lift, often asking the former to be all three.
Front axle capacities should absolutely be openly published. Educating the customer about topics like this will go a long ways towards forcing that kind of transparency in specifications as well. Many of those front axle repairs are due to simple lack of rear ballast.
Awesome as always.
My concern is the tiny tiny tires.
I have rented the BX tractor and I've had problems with the tires not holding up.
The same is true with the John Deere. Why are larger tires not offered?
Likely to keep both size and cost down. The small size, low height, and low weight are big selling points for models like those shown here. They make larger size models for those with heavier duty needs.
I may be wrong, but I always thought that the axle was the part that went from the differential through the axle housing and out to where the wheel bolted on, in which case there would be 2 axles and 1 housing doubling the weight the whole assembly could carry.
Don’t forget, this is strictly a “static” test. You’re not bumping across a field, which lute even more strain on everything. Putting a max. Capacity load in the bucket, and on the front end as well under field conditions. Whole ‘nother situation….
Ballast BEHIND the rear axle is an absolute must.
I agree with your concerns.
Maybe the entire tractor should have been designed to have all the components meet the load requirements
Great information. Have you sold the JG yet if not let me know? Looking for a used tractor.
To do an equal comparison, where is the mower deck for the Kubota?
Believe it or not that's why I decided on an older b7100d with a pin on loader.
Simplicity and serviceability. Granted until I saw my tractor I was ready to buy a new 18hp Kubota. What swayed our decision was plastic vs steel. And yes Messick's does actually still carries parts for my 1979 machine. Wonder what front axle weight is for mine? Not really worried it's a tool.
Remember....
You can use a framing hammer to dig a hole ... But is it the right tool for the task at hand?🤔
nice r14's on there ;)
What kind of failure for front axels have you seen? Is aftermarket front axels an option?
I'm interested in the failure mode also. My >guess< is bearings, but I actually have no idea.
Well being a ford 9n owner , what I look for when buying any tractor especially from a dealer , I like to see lots of steel and metal parts including hoods , , that was for team green , but yeah I mostly just do snow plowing and in the summer moths i grade my drive way , I have used a 7 foot wide grader blade for about 2 years on my n and it worked great , but yeah Ik newer stuff runs a lot different and probably better with high fuel cost but I personally like the brands that offer a heavier duty tractor like if u look at the old John Deere 855s vs the newer 1025s I’d take the 855 bc that thing was a tank , work horse if u will , yeah it goes on what ya do for sure but I think for that type of money and being it’s met to be worked , should be built good and able to last ya a good many years with the right service and stuff .
Good Day Neil:
A year ago I bought an L6060 and had a L3800 for 10 yrs before that. What I expect from a tractor is that it is designed to work within the perimeters of what the equipment says it should. In other words the L3800 loader had the 524 loader and if I understand the rating that means that the loader can and should lift 524 kg or 1152.8 lb to full extension and that all of the components of the tractor are designed to handle that amount of weight. If it is not, then the tractor manufacturer has not done their job in proper designing. This I believe should apply to all models of the manufacturer....
Hey Neil, can you do this video, but with the larger tractors. Like the tractors a hobby farm would use for round baling and feeding horses/ cows/ pigs? I'm looking at New Hollands Power Star tractors and Work Master tractors in the 50-70hp range. I have been concerned myself about the front axle durability compared to my older tractors.
I think Neil needs to expand much more on this topic. There were more questions left then answers.
@@blessed7fold I agree. Definitely need more indepth on the subject and more information for larger machines besides the large lawn mowers.
one question i have, how is axle capacity technically measured? is measuring at the tires an accurate measurement of axle load? I'm wondering if the weight of the axle itself should be subtracted from your measurements? surely the weight of the wheels and tires wouldn't be counted?
It seems strange that anyone would sell something that overloads its axle when empty.
I wonder if that number is just the “Axle” from the knuckle out and not the entire front I beam crossbar.
Shows me the importance of not being able to have one machine for all tasks which seems to be the push.
I know there is always told in john deere manuals, when using the front end loader with a full bucket, never exeed 5mph. My dad ran 2 john deere utility tractors with loaders and pushed them to the limit quite often. the first one did almost 20000 hours, without any problems of the zf front axle. The tractor he runs now has 14000 hours in 8 years and also this jd front axle never failed. So i think the dinamic load at full transport speed is at the rated load (heat build up in bearings) but with slow driving, you have less heat and less bouncing, so less dinamic stress on the axle. When you use your mind when operate a loader at a proper brand tractor, i dont think you got problems normaly